(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#701 3 years ago
Quoted from scasey:

Mine has velcro holding it on.

If mine comes off that is what I would do...velcro tape can hold it well and can be removed if needed.

19
#702 3 years ago

I just received my SE yesterday and I'm blown away - I intentionally avoided playing it at any shows because I didn't want to spoil the fun. I only got to play a couple of games last night, but here are my initial comments:

1) Radcals are 110% worth it if you can see the side of the game in your lineup. Heck, it might be worth it even if you can't see the sides - but just the front. The gloss on them is simply amazing - I wish every pin looked as good as these do.

2) I don't *seem* to have any popup issues that I have noticed yet. They are popping up and staying up until hit from either the front or back.

3) The sticker on the back of the backbox did have 1/4" peeling up on one corner. I could see this becoming an issue eventually (if you care about such things)...JJP simply needs to find some better glue.

4) An external sub is a requirement on this game...but figuring out how to do it is not easy. I'm using a miniplug to RCA cable plugged into the headphone jack. I hope this isn't the final solution, but it works for now. It is SO worth it though - it is incredible when Smaug is talking. And yes, the music overall is hands down the best ever created for a pinball machine...absolutely amazing.

5) The "buzzing" noise when the drops reset really isn't a big deal. Yea, it's a different noise than you are used to hearing for a pinball, but it really isn't loud. I'm sure with the glass off it might get your attention.

6) Still no fix on the left habittrail - I had two ball hangups which were easily remedied with a gentle bump on the cabinet. I'll try raising the habittrail a bit and see if that helps.

7) The ring button bracket is very close to the glass - I would ensure there is clearance there on your game before removing the glass for the first time. I also lifted slightly when removing the glass to ensure it didn't come close.

8 ) Whoever is reading this that makes toppers - PLEASE make one with a fan that activates when Smaug speaks. The WW/Twister toppers are awesome and I think this is finally the game to bring it back on.

9) The white light behind the backlgass is a bit blue. I will apply the orange filter fix and report back on how it looks.

10) order date was 12/10/2012.

11) Anyone that claims that this pinball doesn't have enough shots or is slow must have played a really bad example. There are a sh*t ton of modes and different things to shoot at. I love the Gollum riddle mode where you are supposed to find the "correct" drop target to hit by making any shot to remove the incorrect drops. There is another mode where you are supposed to hit the yellow targets while avoiding the drops - major props to Keith, David and JP so far. I know the software will continue to improve like WOZ, but it's very impressive as it stands.

12) The powder coat looks awesome - I'd like to have the option of ordering a matching coin door!

13) Waiting 3.5 years for a game sucks. I really hope they can make good on their promises to deliver faster on the next title. But once you receive your game, all of that suckage melts away and you are reminded that JJP really is building a better class of game. I have nothing against Stern and I own several (including an incoming GBLE), but they are starting to feel really stripped down in comparison. Thankfully they are being forced to up their game b/c of JJP/Heighway.

#703 3 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

4) An external sub is a requirement on this game...but figuring out how to do it is not easy. I'm using a miniplug to RCA cable plugged into the headphone jack. I hope this isn't the final solution, but it works for now. It is SO worth it though - it is incredible when Smaug is talking. And yes, the music overall is hands down the best ever created for a pinball machine...absolutely amazing.
6) Still no fix on the left habittrail - I had two ball hangups which were easily remedied with a gentle bump on the cabinet. I'll try raising the habittrail a bit and see if that helps.
9) The white light behind the backlgass is a bit blue. I will apply the orange filter fix and report back on how it looks.

1) External sub is definitely a must!! I just got 2 RCA splitters (1 into 2) and plugged one into the single RCA out that is on the back of the computer case- I then plugged the RCA -> Subwoofer into one end, another RCA splitter into the other, and ran RCA -> 3.5mm jack to the Polk sub I have if that makes sense. Sounds awesome.

2) Install a small post on the left ramp screw and the ball wont be able to get stuck there anymore

3) Definitely use the orange filters - looks nicer with a warm LED color then the super white LED's that come in there

#704 3 years ago
Quoted from scasey:

Mine has velcro holding it on.

It isn't velcro from the factory, it is double sided tape. The manual says it is VHB adhesive:

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Brands/3M-VHB-Tape/

#705 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

It isn't velcro from the factory, it is double sided tape. The manual says it is VHB adhesive:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Brands/3M-VHB-Tape/

You can buy that stuff at Home Depot and it is very strong.

The tape they used to affix the shipping foam block to the back of the playfield was pretty strong - but not VHB strong.

#706 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

1) External sub is definitely a must!! I just got 2 RCA splitters (1 into 2) and plugged one into the single RCA out that is on the back of the computer case- I then plugged the RCA -> Subwoofer into one end, another RCA splitter into the other, and ran RCA -> 3.5mm jack to the Polk sub I have if that makes sense. Sounds awesome.
2) Install a small post on the left ramp screw and the ball wont be able to get stuck there anymore
3) Definitely use the orange filters - looks nicer with a warm LED color then the super white LED's that come in there

Any chance you can post a picture of all the stuff you have and where to plug it in so I can buy it now and its ready to go when the Hobbit comes in?

#707 3 years ago
Quoted from FalconPunch:

Any chance you can post a picture of all the stuff you have and where to plug it in so I can buy it now and its ready to go when the Hobbit comes in?

Bought these from Amazon for $5, comes with 2x of them

http://amzn.to/23fgpzX

1) You can see a splitter plug in the top RCA output on the computer case (this is where the factory sub normally plugs in)

2) Plug the factory sub in one end

3) Plug the other splitter in the other end

4) Plug a RCA -> 3.5mm cable into the other splitter and run it to your sub. This is one I recommend:

http://amzn.to/24V07LM

2016-06-16_18.29.39_(resized).jpg

#708 3 years ago

Or just tap into the speaker terminals, and out to the sub.

#709 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Bought these from Amazon for $5, comes with 2x of them
http://amzn.to/23fgpzX
1) You can see a splitter plug in the top RCA output on the computer case (this is where the factory sub normally plugs in)
2) Plug the factory sub in one end
3) Plug the other splitter in the other end
4) Plug a RCA -> 3.5mm cable into the other splitter and run it to your sub. This is one I recommend:
http://amzn.to/24V07LM

Thanks so much.

I tapped directly into sub for Tron and was told I had to use a filter (high pass I think). Us they only because sterns are 2.0. JJP having a dedicated sub channel means no need right?

#710 3 years ago
Quoted from bdaley6509:

Or just tap into the speaker terminals, and out to the sub.

Beat me to it.

I don't understand why people are trying to reinvent the wheel here? There are two speaker terminals on the sub, just like there are on any other pin. We've always just attached our external sub to the two speaker terminals in the cabinet. Why would Hobbit be any different?

#711 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

4) Plug a RCA -> 3.5mm cable into the other splitter and run it to your sub.

Thanks for the picture.
How did you run the wires out of your cabinet to your sub? Or should I say, which hole did you use?

Also can you show a picture of your input to your sub?

#712 3 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

Beat me to it.
I don't understand why people are trying to reinvent the wheel here? There are two speaker terminals on the sub, just like there are on any other pin. We've always just attached our external sub to the two speaker terminals in the cabinet. Why would Hobbit be any different?

I've personally never liked doing that because the terminals can come loose over time nudging the machine- happened on my MET actually. I didn't want to solder anything either. I figured why not since the RCA splitters were $5, and it was very simple to plug in that way, just as simple as connecting to the terminals

On my Stern's I use Pinnovators Pinsub cards for direct audio output which is a lot better then tying into the subs directly

#713 3 years ago
Quoted from fnosm:

Thanks for the picture.
How did you run the wires out of your cabinet to your sub? Or should I say, which hole did you use?
Also can you show a picture of your input to your sub?

I ran the wire out the back mesh vent screens, had to take a few screws out to move the mesh out a bit - then screwed them back in

#714 3 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

9) The white light behind the backlgass is a bit blue. I will apply the orange filter fix and report back on how it looks.

Success! I placed a single strip of 1/2 CTO filter over the LEDs:

amazon.com link »

I didn't unscrew the LED strip, I just used a few pieces of VHB double sided tape above and to the sides of the LED strip:

IMG_3280_(resized).JPG

Before Pic:

IMG_3278_(resized).JPG

After Pic:

IMG_3281_(resized).JPG

So much better!

#715 3 years ago
Quoted from Damonator:

Success! I placed a single strip of 1/2 CTO filter over the LEDs:
amazon.com link »
I didn't unscrew the LED strip, I just used a few pieces of VHB double sided tape above and to the sides of the LED strip:

Before Pic:

After Pic:

So much better!

I'm going to have to do that one of these days. Looks way better.

#716 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

I'm going to have to do that one of these days. Looks way better.

Its easy and cheap to get, and takes like 3 mins to install:

http://www.stagelightingstore.com/3408-Roscosun-1-2-CTO?gclid=CNKg3Kvdr80CFcUdgQodsTMINQ&utm_campaign=products&utm_medium=base&utm_source=google

Or get it from Amazon.

#717 3 years ago

== Version 1.21 ==
==============================================================================

=== Game Code

* Change Game Over music.
* Vastly improve Into the Fire choreography.
* Improve Gollum ball save choreography and execution.
+ Gollum Difficulty adjustment. Can be set from 1-6 (default 3). Sets the
relative difficulty (subject to in-game modifiers) of the "save area".
+ Gollum Save Limit adjustment. Can be set from 0-9 or unlimited (default
unlimited). Controls how many Gollum saves a player is allowed in a game.
* Update Smaug Edition UI.
* Mode instructions should always be on screen while a mode is running now.
* Changed ending of stage 1 of Into the Fire.
+ Arkenstone fragment audits.
+ Into the Fire stage audits.
* Fix Book Mode difficulty adjustment.
* Add-a-ball after each Into the Fire stage completion.

=== Core Code

* Fix Daily HSTD bug.

=== OS

==============================================================================
== Version 1.20 ==
==============================================================================

=== Game Code

* Fix playfield audit names for MAN targets.
+ Beorn multiball ball saver.
+ Daily HSTD to attract mode
* Grace periods added to super spinner, Feast Frenzy.
* Feast Frenzy scoring bumped.
* Improved choreography during Smaug MB.
* Added lots of speech to modes.
* Mirkwood now plays failed movie on bad shot.
* Fix logic error in Riddles.
+ Player added sound effect.
* Fix captive ball Erebor award going off the map.
* Jailbreak now engages right magnet when bumpers are needed.
+ Gollum attempt and success audits.
* Suppress flipper/start buttons until HSTD intro is over.
* HSTD intro only plays once.
* Smaug MB shaker choreography added.
* Improve Windlance choreography.
* Fix obscure barrel bumper crash.
* Improve Feast Frenzy choreography.
+ Arkenstone Mode qualifiers.
+ Arkenstone Mode: Into the Fire.
+ 2+ mode starts audit.
* Change Smaug MB music.
+ Added a couple of tunes to play when Attract Mode Music is set.
* Jackpot calls removed from beasts during Beast Multiball.

=== Core Code

+ Daily HSTD: 4 table entries, no defaults, valid time = 24 hours.
* Add delay to adding players.
* Coil test default mode is now MANUAL instead of RUNNING.
* Fix ball serve generating bogus ball saved calls.

=== OS

* Fix image display program showing a relatively small picture in the upper
left instead of fullscreen. (This affects things like the now updating
screen.)

#718 3 years ago

Has the new code been released?

#719 3 years ago

Just got the call! My Hobbit has arrived. Going to pick it up tomorrow, just in time for Fathers Day.

#720 3 years ago
Quoted from Ramjet:

Has the new code been released?

Not yet, Keith said hopefully sometime tonight.

#721 3 years ago

I guess next week

#722 3 years ago

On the powered subs, I think the hobbit really doesn't need one. It comes with a decent enough 8" sub and the lepai amp has separate sub volume and crossovers. There's a great chance that some of these were not shipped very well adjusted. The lepai amp and this 8 inch sub can crank out floor pounding bass especially using the large cabinet which causes the sub to resonate much lower than it was designed. The limit should be the rattling in the cabinet rather than the bass output here.

#723 3 years ago

damn damonator. that made a H U G E difference in color quality.
have to order some of that pronto!

#724 3 years ago

I hooked up my 10" polk sub under my hobbit just because I had an extra and while it balances out the sound it's not a huge difference.
With ONE exception. When Smaug talks. It reverberates the whole basement and sounds like the damn dragon is in the room with you.
So IMHO I think a polk external is great. We just hooked our leads to the sub in the cabinet and ran them out the back.

#725 3 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

When Smaug talks. It reverberates the whole basement and sounds like the damn dragon is in the room with you.
.

After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

#726 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

Where/how do you adjust the amp? Is there a knob on it? (I will have my Hobbit Monday)

#727 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

Agree. The stock amp and cab speaker is surprisingly effective.

#728 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

Where's the adjustment at ?? I'd love to do that. Also, I cranked up the slings to max power like u suggested and I like how they work much better.

#729 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:After I adjusted the amp, the stock one does this also. The whole floor vibrates in my feet when Smaug talks on ball locks.

Are you using antirattle tape for glass?
Does woz have this amp setting as well?

#730 3 years ago

Sorry guys I might be wrong here. I got rob zombie, full throttle and hobbit into my shop in the same day and I think the other two used the lepai amp. I can't find it in hobbit. So there may not be any amp to adjust after all. Mine has a ton of bass though so I still don't find the need to make any changes.

#731 3 years ago
Quoted from markmon:

Sorry guys I might be wrong here. I got rob zombie, full throttle and hobbit into my shop in the same day and I think the other two used the lepai amp. I can't find it in hobbit. So there may not be any amp to adjust after all. Mine has a ton of bass though so I still don't find the need to make any changes.

It made a difference on mine - if you have a sub to test with, try it out.

#732 3 years ago

Is anyone having an issue with the mini monitor? Mine has pretty much stopped working. I removed it from the game and checked the connections, and is seems when I bend the wiring up behind the monitor it gets a signal, but once I put it back on the game it's lost. When the pops fire it occasionally displays, but then nothing. I checked the connections and it almost seems like it's something with the ribbon cable inside. Anyone else have this problem?

#733 3 years ago
Quoted from VT8man:

Is anyone having an issue with the mini monitor? Mine has pretty much stopped working. I removed it from the game and checked the connections, and is seems when I bend the wiring up behind the monitor it gets a signal, but once I put it back on the game it's lost. When the pops fire it occasionally displays, but then nothing. I checked the connections and it almost seems like it's something with the ribbon cable inside. Anyone else have this problem?

Did you check for loose connections inside the computer case of the machine? There's a video component cable in there that was a little loose out of the box from the shipping process I assume - just make sure everything in there is fully seated.

#734 3 years ago

My DWARF target assembly fell down last night.
The 2 screws on the left side had backed out and were waiting for me, together, on top of the computer.
I have about 400 plays on it.

So, next time you lift the PF, check the tightness of these screws. The aggressive motion leads to looseness I guess. I was thinking that they might have used a T-nut and blue locktite on this maybe in production.

I glued them in with titebond 3 and toothepick ends. They are tight now and as with flipper baseplate screws gluing them will help a lot.

#735 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

My DWARF target assembly fell down last night.
The 2 screws on the left side had backed out and were waiting for me, together, on top of the computer.
I have about 400 plays on it.
So, next time you lift the PF, check the tightness of these screws. The aggressive motion leads to looseness I guess. I was thinking that they might have used a T-nut and blue locktite on this maybe in production.
I glued them in with titebond 3 and toothepick ends. They are tight now and as with flipper baseplate screws gluing them will help a lot.

my buddies game the screws and plate fell of the ork pop up.(the upper right pop up) the two screws and plate that hold the head! jack wheres the Loc-tite?

#736 3 years ago
Quoted from freddy:

my buddies game the screws and plate fell of the ork pop up.(the upper right pop up) the two screws and plate that hold the head! jack wheres the Loc-tite?

Anything that comes loose on metal parts, I reassemble with blue locktite.

#737 3 years ago
Quoted from VT8man:

Is anyone having an issue with the mini monitor? Mine has pretty much stopped working. I removed it from the game and checked the connections, and is seems when I bend the wiring up behind the monitor it gets a signal, but once I put it back on the game it's lost. When the pops fire it occasionally displays, but then nothing. I checked the connections and it almost seems like it's something with the ribbon cable inside. Anyone else have this problem?

The cable to the book LCD is a standard female to female VGA cable. It sounds like you have either a loose connection or the VGA cable is bad. You can run a new cable between the PC motherboard and the display to see if that resolves your issue.

#738 3 years ago
#739 3 years ago

loaded 1.21
Smaug still chews bubble gum on ball 1 lock. need to play more to see what's new.

#740 3 years ago

Main additions are the Into the Fire mini wizard mode and then the Beorn add a ball during multiball which is very useful. The shot call outs were much needed and also a nice addition.

#741 3 years ago
Quoted from VT8man:

Is anyone having an issue with the mini monitor? Mine has pretty much stopped working. I removed it from the game and checked the connections, and is seems when I bend the wiring up behind the monitor it gets a signal, but once I put it back on the game it's lost. When the pops fire it occasionally displays, but then nothing. I checked the connections and it almost seems like it's something with the ribbon cable inside. Anyone else have this problem?

I did, and traced it to the 4 pin connector leaving the metal box where the yellow wire (12v) pin "wings" were bent wrong so it was not staying seated in the connector. I bent the wing back, but it still doesn't stay seated. I think it stripped the plastic on the connector as well.

added: The pin seems to stay in for now, but I expect vibration to have it come loose eventually.

#742 3 years ago
Quoted from Gizmata:

I did, and traced it to the 4 pin connector leaving the metal box where the yellow wire (12v) pin "wings" were bent wrong so it was not staying seated in the connector. I bent the wing back, but it still doesn't stay seated. I think it stripped the plastic on the connector as well.
added: The pin seems to stay in for now, but I expect vibration to have it come loose eventually.

Yes, I don't think I have a problem with the connector staying seated, but it does seem like where the plastic bracket holding the pins on the board in the monitor has some play in it. I don't think my problem is the same, because when I disconnect everything and just plug the power back in to the monitor, I get a blue screen briefly and then it goes dark, so similar to a computer monitor getting no input but is getting power. I mentioned before if I connect the VGA as well and pull the cables upward it seems to work, but when I mount it back on the game the monitor goes dark, sometimes displays but is dim, and rarely it works. Almost like there is some kink in the VGA cable that connects periodically from vibration. Like you mention, if the pops fire, the shaker comes on, or the VUK in the right scoop/hole fires it flickers. So I have to get back in there, when I find time because I'm dying to see the timer on there when I start modes!

#743 3 years ago

As I anticipate the arrival of my game I have kept abreast of all the Hobbit-related postings. With all the comments made about loose connections I would recommend that once you get these connectors working properly is to put a dab of silicone on the external surface of the connector and have it touch the receptor. This should hold it securely seated and protect against vibrations yet still allow it to be removed, if need be. At least that is what I plan to do.

#744 3 years ago
Quoted from fordtudoor:

As I anticipate the arrival of my game I have kept abreast of all the Hobbit-related postings. With all the comments made about loose connections I would recommend that once you get these connectors working properly is to put a dab of silicone on the external surface of the connector and have it touch the receptor. This should hold it securely seated and protect against vibrations yet still allow it to be removed, if need be. At least that is what I plan to do.

Flakey connectors at best should be replaced (push the pins out etc and get new connector housings, squeeze the female pins a little when they are out). In a pinch one can nylon strap with a tie to secure them more tightly together.

Over-all this has not been a big issue with these games, but an issue in all devices that use these types of connectors e.g. cars, computers etc.

#745 3 years ago

Gameplay:

Into the fire is super AWESOME!

#746 3 years ago

Great video and a good score. Into the fire looks really intense and awesome. Good that you found the shot. Not easy to see.

I see there is a lot of extra ball and add a ball opportunities in the game.

the left backhand into the extra ball hole looks like a very satisfying shot. So much stuff in the code and probably a lot more to come.

I am really amazed how much code you can squeeze out of a pretty simple layout.

Only thing I am unsure of is the voice over. Sounds a bit stale in some places. Super Jackpot is a good example of this,(not easy to top john Rhys Davies in that department ) but otherwise, the game looks really fantastic already.

I just wish JJP would hurry up and send a container (or two) to Europe soon.

#747 3 years ago

Holy sh*t! This game keeps getting better and better. Definitely not in the "one quick game" type category... the games seem as long as the movies. Just watching the video wore me out. Maybe extra balls should be limited as it seemed like ten balls were played.

Always seemed to have some feature running also... if I didn't have LOTR I'd be lusting after one of these monsters. Don't they weigh 350 lbs?

#748 3 years ago

Love watching these update videos get even more exciting as I wait for mine! Bet these updates being played in person feels like a kid on Christmas morning

#749 3 years ago

When I play on mine at home, the first thing I've noticed is how hard it is to get extra balls. I have about 10 games over 1.2 million and have only earned an extra ball on one game. Am I missing something? I have my extra ball settings on 4, which I believe is default. Other than that, only 3 ball games.

#750 3 years ago

Yea I also never get extra balls.

My outlanes are on the max open settings. The ball times aren't super long on this game. I found say game of thrones to be longer. Since code 1.2, I've broken a million several times.

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