(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread

By Eryeal

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 45 hours ago by LTG
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There are 12,956 posts in this topic. You are on page 149 of 260.
#7401 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I went the gold newton and gold captive ball route myself. A lot of people think that looks pretty good too.

Can you upload a picture? That does sound like a good mod.

#7402 4 years ago

Originally I did just the captive ball, then the newton ball to match. Here is an image that someone else posted. I think I posted a few back around then too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/63#post-3696133

#7403 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I went the gold newton and gold captive ball route myself. A lot of people think that looks pretty good too.

Thanks for the link to the pictures!

#7404 4 years ago

Running 6, the black balls are ok to see. I can play in a dark room and i have cataracts.

I think the black balls may be wearing thin and looking a lighter black after about 3 months now of regular home use.

#7405 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Running 6, the black balls are ok to see. I can play in a dark room and i have cataracts.
I think the black balls may be wearing thin and looking a lighter black after about 3 months now of regular home use.

I think the idea of black pinballs is kind of cool. But now that I think about it a super shiny chrome pinball is the best

#7406 4 years ago

Gold Smaug LE.

The pin is new out of box in April. Had an issue with Warg initially and now has come back, more on that in a minute. In addition, Orc now has a dedicated error (RED) and says switch is open. I did the following:

Tested lane switch of Orc and it shows switching on sw. test.
Tested Orc coil and it too does the same 1/2" popup that the others do.
Tested the Orc while up with my hand and watched the Orc Hit switch test and get no switch on/off.

Orc does NOT pop up when you trigger the Orc return lane (all others do with their respective return lane.
This is where the Warg issue has come back as well.

Warg will pop up with its return lane. If I pull it up manually and then test the Warg hit switch, I get intermittent switch contact until I press on his lower, almost chin. Then I get reliable and constant on/off.

What is going on? Is it simply both switches are bad? Is there a circuit board issue? Why does Orc not pop up? Is the code written that if the switch has not been used in so many games, the error comes up and then locks out the pop up?

If it is a switch replacement, it looks like a dog to get it out?

Thanks ahead of time.

Tim

#7407 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Orc does NOT pop up

Check the bottom of the assembly under the playfield. Loosen nut, screw rubber stopper thingy a little higher. Tighten nut. See if that helps.

LTG : )

#7408 4 years ago

Doesn't that just adjust the Orc up and down? This seems to be related to the "Orc Hit" value needed. The beast does NOT record any activity from being hit.

#7409 4 years ago

I (think) that from the troubleshooting I've done, it appears that the beast will NOT pop up due to the fact that the switch shows "Open" prior to the ball going through the Orc lane below. As stated the lane switch appears normal, the pop up coil tests like the other three, but it does not go up. I pull it up manually and try the bash and nothing. The Warg has been an issue since new and I see today that bashing the upper part will not record a hit, but hitting his chin is 100%.

Two issues,

Tim

#7410 4 years ago

It's not a cut wire is it?

#7411 4 years ago

Maybe a slight loss of colour on the active balls, but not much.

They look great during multi's.

ball1 (resized).jpgball1 (resized).jpgball2 (resized).jpgball2 (resized).jpg
#7412 4 years ago

Took apart sw. # 36 (Orc Hit) and shorted the plug. It then released the "open switch" error and allowed the Orc lane to pop up Orc. The "Hit" switch still does not record a hit (open/close). I guess it is the switch.

Does anyone know how tough it is to remove the pop up assembly and replace the switch? If I order a new switch from JJ, doe sit come with the plug or am I soldering?

On the Warg issue, is there a way to adjust the Warg so that a hit anywhere on his face will trigger the hit? Right now just pushing on the chin does it... A new switch here too? This is probably why I can never get to the Arken modes. No wonder I can't get a good score on this thing.

Anybody's insight on a switch replacement will be appreciated.

#7413 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Does anyone know how tough it is to remove the pop up assembly

3 connectors and 5 screws. Easy.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

replace the switch?

A lot of work. Taking the assembly apart and getting it to line up so it moves up and down freely very time consuming.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

I guess it is the switch.

Nah. Broken wire near where the assembly meets the playfield on the underside of the playfield.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

If I order a new switch from JJ, doe sit come with the plug or am I soldering?

Soldering.

LTG : )

#7414 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Does anyone know how tough it is to remove the pop up assembly

I'm sorry. I forgot topside you need to remove the two clips and two springs holding the trap door to the pop up character. Before lowering the assembly.

I pull it up. Lock a small vice grip on the side so it can't go back down into the hole. The carefully remove the clip and screw so they don't drop or fly off into never never land.

LTG : )

#7415 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The carefully remove the clip and screw so they do drop or fly off into never never land

so they DON'T ...

#7416 4 years ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

I seem to recall a JJP interview with somebody where they mentioned it was too hard to see the black ball sometimes. I'm sure eventually the black wears off, too.

I can confirm that black balls are much harder to follow. I put them in my TSPP after purchasing a variety that look like bowling balls and some had the nuclear symbol on them and others said, "Homer" after a specific episode. They also discolor after a while so I went back to chrome.

#7417 4 years ago

So if I take the assembly off, you think its a broken wire? If so, can it then be repaired on the bench? and screwed back in without adjustments? Do I have to do the upper thing in order to get the assembly down?

#7418 4 years ago

How about the Warg issue and not making the switch on the top part of the face?

#7419 4 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

so they DON'T ...

Thank you !

LTG : )

#7420 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

So if I take the assembly off, you think its a broken wire?

Yes. See picture.

LTG : )

DSC00056 (resized).JPGDSC00056 (resized).JPG
#7421 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

can it then be repaired on the bench?

Yes.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

and screwed back in without adjustments?

If you fix the wire without disassembling the big frame, yes.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

Do I have to do the upper thing in order to get the assembly down?

Yes. Unless you can get a trap door down a hole in the playfield that is smaller than the trap door.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

How about the Warg issue and not making the switch on the top part of the face?

You are there. I'm not. Broken wire ? Need cleaning ? Need adjusting ? Time you learned about leaf blade switches.

LTG : )

#7422 4 years ago

I'll pull it tomorrow.

If there is any help on Warg adjustments, let me know and I'll do it then as well.

#7423 4 years ago

The leaf switch , as I said works fine and makes when I push on Warg's chin. If I just push the top, it does not make. I tried moving the head slightly, but it does not make a difference. No Warg is not a wire issue, it is the logistics of the head...

#7424 4 years ago

Yes I have a lot to learn. You guys have ton of experience. I'm not opposed to jumping in, but as with anything without some help through the minefield, I can make much more much worse and quickly.

#7425 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

If I just push the top, it does not make. I tried moving the head slightly, but it does not make a difference. No Warg is not a wire issue, it is the logistics of the head...

Ahh the fine art of adjusting. So the slightest ball hit triggers it. But vibration doesn't.

Quoted from gordonshumway:

You guys have ton of experience.

Not always. I've blown up more crap than the average person.

You'll learn. You'll do fine. You are off to a good start just by asking.

LTG : )

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#7426 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

when I push on Warg's chin. If I just push the top,

I might add. Game play is different. Tests - Switches - Matrixed, hold the character up. Roll a ball at it. Adjust so ball hits trigger it. Not your finger after initial testing. Adjust with power off until you are really feeling bold. Then turn the game off anyway.

LTG : )

#7427 4 years ago

I love the sound of a knock when I’ve got it going in pinball, and on Hobbit I love the green and white light show and the video of the chest of gold when I win a free game. It’s ridiculous since it’s on free play anyway, but I leave it turned because for me it’s just part of the fun. What about the rest of you? Do you have Replay set to Auto, and Replay Award set to FREE GAME?

#7428 4 years ago
Quoted from pineal:

I love the sound of a knock when I’ve got it going in pinball, and on Hobbit I love the green and white light show and the video of the chest of gold when I win a free game. It’s ridiculous since it’s on free play anyway, but I leave it turned because for me it’s just part of the fun. What about the rest of you? Do you have Replay set to Auto, and Replay Award set to FREE GAME?

Yeah, that is a hell of a light show and call out!

#7429 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Yes I have a lot to learn. You guys have ton of experience. I'm not opposed to jumping in, but as with anything without some help through the minefield, I can make much more much worse and quickly.

Hobbit was my first pin (and only so far). I was hesitant to take out anything - but after a while you will need to to make repairs. I didn't know anything about leaf switches or coils or anything...

I started off easy - like putting on cliffys. This forced me to take pictures and actually remove things from the playfield (oh the horror)

But after a while I didn't fear removing assemblies and making leaf switch corrections, or fixing broken springs, etc. You'll learn how those things work as you go. Don't be afraid to get in there and tinker - discover how the assemblies are wired and function.

You'll do fine! Might as well learn it sooner than later - pinball machines need fixing every once in a while (even HUO ones).

#7430 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

Yes I have a lot to learn. You guys have ton of experience. I'm not opposed to jumping in, but as with anything without some help through the minefield, I can make much more much worse and quickly.

Don’t forget to buy a leaf spring adjustment tool kit, will make adjustments a breeze. JJ sells the whole switch with the connection if the problem turns out to be the roller switch. If you need that switch you should pick up a extra for the future. Take your time when it comes time to take off the top cover. Use a rag to cover the hole of the beast mech in case you drop the spring or clip. This will stop it from falling under the Playfield.

#7431 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Check to see if a wire fell off or was cut to that switch, if its not registering.

They are easy to work on if you remove the stop nut at the bottom, unplug the switch and coil and just pull out the whole unit.

So can you remove the Beast Mech by removing the stop nut at the bottom of it , or do you have to take off all the stuff from the top and do it that way
In other words can you undo a nut from a beast Mech and pull it up through the Playfield or do you have to remove the trap door and a lot of stuff and pull it down through the Playfield

#7432 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

I'm sorry. I forgot topside you need to remove the two clips and two springs holding the trap door to the pop up character. Before lowering the assembly.
I pull it up. Lock a small vice grip on the side so it can't go back down into the hole. The carefully remove the clip and screw so they don't drop or fly off into never never land.
LTG : )

From what I'm reading seems two ways to remove a beast mech , one seems a lot easier than the other , am I missing something ?

#7433 4 years ago
Quoted from screaminr:

So can you remove the Beast Mech by removing the stop nut at the bottom of it , or do you have to take off all the stuff from the top and do it that way
In other words can you undo a nut from a beast Mech and pull it up through the Playfield or do you have to remove the trap door and a lot of stuff and pull it down through the Playfield

I have removed my beast mechs a few times. Remove trap door by pushing the mech up from below. It is nice to get a second set of hands to make it easier. Then unscrew the mech and detach the wire harness and remove it from the bottom. Make your adjustments and then reverse the process to get it back on. First time I did it took 15 minutes but after that I can easily remove in a minute or so.

#7434 4 years ago

Lift playfield, push beast mech up all the way and insert a rag, wadded up paper, dead animal..... what ever keeps the mech fully extended. Drop playfield. Remove clips, remove springs, remove mech lid. Lift playfield again, remove rag/wadded paper/dead animal, disconnect wiring harness, unscrew and remove mech.

#7435 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

Lift playfield, push beast mech up all the way and insert a rag, wadded up paper, dead animal..... what ever keeps the mech fully extended. Drop playfield. Remove clips, remove springs, remove mech lid. Lift playfield again, remove rag/wadded paper/dead animal, disconnect wiring harness, unscrew and remove mech.

Curious if we can just replace the beast entirely with the dead animal?

#7436 4 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

Curious if we can just replace the beast entirely with the dead animal?

No. You'd have PETA busting down your door and I don't know about you but I hate the smell of patchouli oil.

#7437 4 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

Curious if we can just replace the beast entirely with the dead animal?

Though, I have thought about replacing the sculpts with the faces of some modern day rock stars and actors? Oh, and Lloyd of course ...

I wonder if Matt will make an LTG sculpt to replace my goblin with? Just kidding Lloyd...

#7438 4 years ago

So yes, it was abroken wire. Funny the picture posted looks 100% like my Beast. What a horse sh*t design. Re-soldered the broken white wire, looked at the green and knew that it had the same destiny without intervention. I then shrink wrapped both and instead of a tie-wrap, used fabric sting to re-tie it to the structure. Orc now scores hits. I looked at the other three Beasts and wonder how long before the dental floss sized wire breaks on them. As Goronic said, next time it wont be 15 minutes, it'll 1 - Ok, 2.

Yes, this was "easy". And thanks to a few who were kind enough to detail explain their trials, it made this "easy". Everyone should remember however that there is a first for every user, and this forum is for helping, not making them feel dumb for never having traveled down a road before. I think that I'm a very capable person with a lot of experience in many areas. I always find that someone who has been there a few times and can walk you through "the minefield" is always a better way to go than to bust in like a bull in the china shop and make the repair worse... CLEllison is a great example of a great teacher.

#7439 4 years ago
Quoted from gordonshumway:

not making them feel dumb

I apologize if my seven posts and picture made you feel dumb. Wasn't my intent. Only tried to help.

LTG

#7440 4 years ago

Lloyd: Don't take it personal. I am only here to learn and your posts were fine. JUst need initial help, then I can take the tools out.

Tim

#7441 4 years ago

Finally circling back to fixing this... Tried the suggestions and it had no effect. I removed the Orc and tried to see if it was getting caught on anything...
Based upon the video below, does the coil need replacing?

Kinda stuck on what to do next...

Thanks for the help!
Steve

Quoted from LTG:

First thing is see if it's binding on the hole in the playfield going up. If it moves up and down freely. Next step is to loosen the nut at the bottom of the assembly and the rubber stopper looking thing on the other side of the nut, turn it and raise the mech up a bit. Retighten the nut and try it then.
LTG : )

#7442 4 years ago
Quoted from Ponzie:

Finally circling back to fixing this... Tried the suggestions and it had no effect. I removed the Orc and tried to see if it was getting caught on anything...
Based upon the video below, does the coil need replacing?

Kinda stuck on what to do next...
Thanks for the help!
Steve

Coil seems to work.
Does it move freely, no binding?
Plunger mushroomed and needs filing?
Coil sleeve dirty?

Maybe switches disconnected or need adjustment.

#7443 4 years ago

Wouldn’t the coil move the Orc all the way up?
The coil sleeve has wear marks but is clean. When I move the target up and down manually, it moves freely.
Switches seem fine but not quite sure what to check there...
Attached are a few photos if that helps...
Thanks for the assist here! Hope to get it working... first time doing some surgery here...

Quoted from pinballinreno:

Coil seems to work.
Does it move freely, no binding?
Plunger mushroomed and needs filing?
Coil sleeve dirty?
Maybe switches disconnected or need adjustment.

17E4C3AF-0B4A-4B80-AC1E-F75156AFE504 (resized).jpeg17E4C3AF-0B4A-4B80-AC1E-F75156AFE504 (resized).jpeg2769902F-0C15-4B1C-956B-1EA4EDC02816 (resized).jpeg2769902F-0C15-4B1C-956B-1EA4EDC02816 (resized).jpeg46BD05A5-7F83-4702-A65E-7F4DBBD7EE81 (resized).jpeg46BD05A5-7F83-4702-A65E-7F4DBBD7EE81 (resized).jpegB666F0C5-EC64-4375-9C77-55900FE93C79 (resized).jpegB666F0C5-EC64-4375-9C77-55900FE93C79 (resized).jpegD3326F94-21FF-4A50-A6AC-5F1AE1EBB784 (resized).jpegD3326F94-21FF-4A50-A6AC-5F1AE1EBB784 (resized).jpeg
#7444 4 years ago
Quoted from Ponzie:

Wouldn’t the coil move the Orc all the way up?
The coil sleeve has wear marks but is clean. When I move the target up and down manually, it moves freely.
Switches seem fine but not quite sure what to check there...
Attached are a few photos if that helps...
Thanks for the assist here! Hope to get it working... first time doing some surgery here...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You have 3 switches. It's been a while since I've had mine out so forgive my lack of memory but IIRC the cherry switch tells the machine the mech is fully extended so I'd focus on the leaf switches first. It's acting like a switch is engaging too soon. The tolerance on the face switch is very very tight. Insert something thin and non conductive between the blade contacts. If it still does it then do the same to the back leaf contacts. If it persists then disconnect the cherry switch.
Now, if for some God forbidden reason it's still acting grumpy hook the beast mech up to another beast mechs harness. While I highly doubt it, if the mech starts working then it's a board issue.

#7445 4 years ago
Quoted from CLEllison:

You have 3 switches. It's been a while since I've had mine out so forgive my lack of memory but IIRC the cherry switch tells the machine the mech is fully extended so I'd focus on the leaf switches first. It's acting like a switch is engaging too soon. The tolerance on the face switch is very very tight. Insert something thin and non conductive between the blade contacts. If it still does it then do the same to the back leaf contacts. If it persists then disconnect the cherry switch.
Now, if for some God forbidden reason it's still acting grumpy hook the beast mech up to another beast mechs harness. While I highly doubt it, if the mech starts working then it's a board issue.

Yes.
If the head switch engages the mech will immediately drop.

I'd look at that first, or a shorted wire.

#7446 4 years ago

I have balls coming off the right ramp and getting stuck right above the upper flipper. This happens at least once every 20 games or so. Any suggestions on adjustments to prevent this?

20190825_132832 (resized).jpg20190825_132832 (resized).jpg
#7447 4 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

Any suggestions on adjustments to prevent this?

Raise ramp up a little at the spot where it's screwed down right by the stuck ball.

LTG : )

#7448 4 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I have balls coming off the right ramp and getting stuck right above the upper flipper. This happens at least once every 20 games or so. Any suggestions on adjustments to prevent this?[quoted image]

I turned and raised the tie wrap on that hex post so that the ball would fit through, making sure the wire wasn't in the way also. There was enough space on mine for that to be the fix.

#7449 4 years ago
Quoted from Reaper802:

I have balls coming off the right ramp and getting stuck right above the upper flipper. This happens at least once every 20 games or so. Any suggestions on adjustments to prevent this?[quoted image]

Move whatever is stopping the ball up, down, sideways or around.

Keep testing with a ball until it rolls off cleanly.

Easy fix.

#7450 4 years ago
Quoted from KingBW:

I turned and raised the tie wrap on that hex post so that the ball would fit through, making sure the wire wasn't in the way also. There was enough space on mine for that to be the fix.

I should have spotted this. Rotated the ziptie head and now the ball can at least get out if it falls off the wireform.

I also loosened the hex head on that post some in hopes it solves the main issue of the ball come off.

Appreciate all the feedback and ideas. Time to test!

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