Check the video connection to it.
Make sure its firmly plugged in.

Check the same cable other end at the computer side. Make sure it is also plugged in firmly.

Thanks, I checked both vga connection points (at the monitor and at the cpu) and both are tightly screwed down but still no image I do remember the colors seemed off on the mini display last time it was working.

Try a new vga cable

Might be a bad display. It happens.

To check the video feed plug the cable into a laptop.

Or better yet a monitor...

Anyone have issues with the invisiglass slipping out of the track on the left or right side? It is almost like the glass isnt wide enough. The cabinet appear ok and is not cracked.

Yes, some are very loose.
A layer of electrical tape in one corner can firm it up a bit

Mine is the same. The cabinet is just a smidge too wide. Also the support rails are positioned just a little too wide for the rubber feet to both rest on the lockdown bar mech at the same time. little things but still annoying.

Tons of my games are like this, although ironically not the Hobbit

Similar thing happened to me. Color seemed off then intermittent outages. Cabling all checked out. New display hasn’t had a problem - been in longer than the original.

Jjp sent me free plastic guides that go into glass slots to fill the space. It tightened the glass right up. Mine was so lose, the glass would slip out and scratch inside walls of cabinet when removing or installing glass.

New place i haven't seen for a stuck ball before. I thought there should have been a ball left during multi but the machine didn't do a search until i tried to start a new game an hour later....

Any one else seen this one? I'm assuming it's come off the ramp...

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i remember early games having this issue.

There’s an insert that corrects this - if you need one send me a pm

Does anyone know what the color temperature is for the LED strip in the backbox? I'm guessing it's 6000.

Looking to add lighting on the side and bottom of the backglass art:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075LB9HK2/

I should just be able to jumper off the existing strip with these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DM7HCAI/

All and all I should be able to do the whole thing for well under $20.

Thoughts?

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You'll need to cut the led strip in 3 pieces. Then you'll need to solder wires connecting the other two pieces to the first one. Then on the end you'll solder another set of wires with the proper female molex to be able to connect to the 12v topper plug. You might want to also consider adding a dimmer switch. For the amount of time and little money you'll save you might as well buy a premade mod. I got one on mine and it's nice.

Yeah, labor intensive for sure. Here’s ours, $66 shipped, looks really good.

https://lermods.com/products/the-hobbit-woz-pinball-led-strip-translight-side-lights-kit

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Perhaps I'm at an advantage being an electrical engineer but I don't see this as labor extensive at all. In fact it looks pretty simple. For less than $20 in material I could do at least 4 machines. So $5 a machine.

I'll get the stuff ordered up in a few days and do a tutorial on the process. I can probably even put the extras into some cheap kits if anyone is interested.

I'm game for one. I have the Lermods - mod that lights the trough and back ramp. I used the free, extra outlet. How then will I tie another set into it?

So on the latest code can't find where to adjust the windlance power I have adjusted the metal guide and it was feeding well updated code a bit ago and lost the setting what am I overlooking thanks

The factory default on ver 3.1 should be fine as is.... at least it is for me. The wind lance isnt always reliable/consistent and I suppose it accurately represents using a bow per say. However during the mode where the windlance and 3rd flipper are used to hit the dwarf target, it should fairly regularly shoot the ball into the Kili entrance. Since it's a coil you should be able to find the setting in the coil section of the service menu.

I guess your time isn't worth much. Shipping, packing, boxes, postage, all kinds of overhead costs, income taxes and a lot more. I can guarantee you nobody is getting rich off mods. Sure you can do it cheaper yourself, just like many things, but if you don’t want to because you don’t have time or don’t have the skill to do it (it requires soldering in tight places sometimes— do it wrong and you cause a short— pinning connectors, etc.), it’s available for sale at relatively low cost from us. There is a tutorial already done on this somewhere, I think for dialed in, search around, it’s there.

Lermods - I never said a word about your product. I asked about color temp for an LED strip. You jumped in and said it would be "labor intensive", I disagreed. Then somehow this became a topic about the value of my time. Time is priceless, it's can't be bought or stored for a rainy day. I think it's great you are offering a service for owners who want to avoid as much risk as possible and plug and play. I could care less about your profit margins and how you run your business. I will say that this interaction has ensured I will never purchase anything from you.

My Windlance has never shot it into the Killi entrance is there a way to adjust it

Mine has always been highly variable. Would love to know if there is something you can do.

Same here.
On the other hand the left kickback on my DI will make the phone scoop 90% of the time when the guy dude isn’t in the way. So I have to imagine some sort of tweaking will make it happen. Haven’t found that sweet spot yet.

Bend the end of the right flatrail in the windlance lane

It's easy, maybe remove or loosen the plastic, loosen screw, pry it out slightly, tighten screw.

Bend it in or out as you need.

A little is a lot.

Adjust power as you need also.
In the game it's supposed to be a bit random..

But with a full charge it should go up the right lane and half way to the pops.

My windlance was terrible.
But after 30 mins of adjustment it's now near perfect.

I agree with all you said ^^. My wind lance was terrible out of the box but a minor adjustment much better. My game needed the metal guide bent a bit and power adjusted and now it’s pretty solid.

Thanks , will give it a go , would make killing Smaug a lot easier

Sorry if I’m being too lazy to search this issue in the forum thread but in playing the game today, the orc pop up started to struggle to operate while I was playing...
I’ve already had to fix/replace a spring on a drop target on the machine so I thought it may be something similar but when I ran a test on the target, the coil really struggled to raise the orc.
Am I in for some major surgery here?

It’s a Smaug Gold edition machine manufactured in July 2016...

Appreciate any guidance.

Thanks!

First thing is see if it's binding on the hole in the playfield going up. If it moves up and down freely. Next step is to loosen the nut at the bottom of the assembly and the rubber stopper looking thing on the other side of the nut, turn it and raise the mech up a bit. Retighten the nut and try it then.

LTG : )

I experienced the same problem
Mech triggered, lighted arrow kicks on, light turns on inside mech hole, mech starts to lift but wont come out of the hole, sometimes it moves up and down a quarter of an inch repeatedly as if its trying to pop the rest of the way up but and can’t then tries again. Mech scores a hit, never coming out of the hole.

I got help from JJP customer support. The basic fix was find any places where the mech could be rubbing on the play field, lift the mech up and push it firmly in the opposite direction allowing that the wood gives just enough for the mech to move into a better position. It should be pointed out that you should use gloves as the flap on the mech will cut your hands if you're not very careful.

The height adjustment for the mech worked for my warg that was having trouble popping up as well, I just raised up the black bumper pad that acts as the stop for the mech just a small amount and everything started working perfectly. Apparently the weight of mech slamming down will take this out of adjustment over time. Supper easy fix once you know what to do.

Nicely done

Looking for input on new rubber set for my hobbit. Titan, white standard rubbers etc.

I just did color matched Titan rings on mine. Once I get my ramp situation fixed I'll have lots of photos up. I created a kit on the Titan website.

Thnx for the post. Pics would be appreciated...what kit did you create, the one on 6/15?

Yes 6/15/2019 is the one I built out.

I did green Titans on mine, pics are posted further back in this thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hobbit-owners-thread/page/114#post-4670113

Thanks for the post guys!

Sneak peak at my color matched Titan rings. Can't wait to see how they pop with the lights on when the ramp is back in.

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Did you shop the machine?
If so was it hard?
I got mine today and am ashamed to admit it has 28,000 games played on it.
Seems to work fine but the 4 posts that light playfield are all not on? Any ideas.
Thanks in advance for any information.

Spotlights ? 12 volts DC - power at the sockets - if no check for broken wire along the line from spotlights to power source. If 12 Volts is there, check if bulbs are good, if LEDs, if good and facing the right direction.

LTG : )

I'd bet money the LEDs have failed. Those bulbs suck to get out. Use a pair of needle nose pliers. Pull one that's working and put it in one that's not. And as Lloyd said, those are 12v bulbs so make sure you order 12v replacements. And shopping the machine out so sucks. Take my advice and check the back stops on the holes (can do as is by using your fingers). Mine were both stupid loose. When you shop it out, you'll have to pull the ramp which is no great joy to do, but when you do schedule yourself time to install a set of cliffy protectors. If your ramp flaps are curled now is the time to replace them as well. The clear around the holes is very likely to crack and chip. With the ramp out of the way you can clean the backside of the playfield. Ensure the pop bumper wire form gate posts are secure. Mine were super loose.

I had to remove my ramp as it was an early run with the old ramp flaps. Otherwise the machine only has 199 games played when I bought it. It's a little bit of work to get the ramp out, maybe 90 minutes when you do it the first time.

I have yet to do my ramp flaps. Something I've definitely been avoiding.

I waited until the silver ones actually started cracking from being re-bent so many times.

It's not too bad.
Unplug the opto's under the playfield.

Remove a few screws.
Get smaug out of the way, 4 scews.

Use a tight fitting screwdriver on the tiny screws in the flaps, press firmly.
Don't strip the heads.

It fits pretty tight, a little finesse and slight warping, its out!

Installing the flaps is pretty straightforward.

If you can, use the press rivets instead of the pop ones, they last longer but either will work.

Working slowly with a lot of distractions took me 45 mins.

This included cleaning and waxing underneath.

IIRC you also have to remove both hobbit trails. Take pictures and make note where your optos plug into the board.

I'm in the market for a rivet press to do this sort of work, any suggestions? I'm in Canada, but can wait on an online order...

Hey got a question thinking about making a trade for a hobbit is there something I should look for or a year that it was built to see any problems