(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

2 years ago



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#6451 21 days ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

If you buy a new one be prepared to lose at least $1,500 to $2,000. Just the reality of this pin. It's an awesome pin though, someday I'll get one myself.

This is very true since I bought one early on. However, I have no regrets the enjoyment I get from owning this game for the last few years is priceless for me. I've also purchased other NIB pins, and fully expect to take a hit if selling. Saving money and getting a used Hobbit is great option, except at my age I don't want to be hauling 350 lbs pin from someones basement to mine that's not priceless.

#6452 20 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Pinball as an investment in fun as an enriching and social experience is awesome.
Pinball as a financial investment can be a fools paradise, and not recommended.

You say that but the never ending run up on pricing continues and buys keep buying. Most folks in the hobby who were not in early (10 years ago or more) or who aren’t rich have built their collections by flipping for profit. It’s the only way and continues to this day. In that sense pinball has been a wonderful investment for those who have been savvy and opportunistic enough.

#6453 20 days ago
Quoted from indybru:

This is very true since I bought one early on. However, I have no regrets the enjoyment I get from owning this game for the last few years is priceless for me. I've also purchased other NIB pins, and fully expect to take a hit if selling. Saving money and getting a used Hobbit is great option, except at my age I don't want to be hauling 350 lbs pin from someones basement to mine that's not priceless.

For what it’s worth, the Hobbit is THE easiest pin to take apart. I can do it in about 10 minutes. Remove legs. Pull PF, remove connectors, remove head, remove playfield. Then you can almost move it by yourself

#6454 20 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

For what it’s worth, the Hobbit is THE easiest pin to take apart. I can do it in about 10 minutes. Remove legs. Pull PF, remove connectors, remove head, remove playfield. Then you can almost move it by yourself

Really?

#6455 20 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

For what it’s worth, the Hobbit is THE easiest pin to take apart. I can do it in about 10 minutes. Remove legs. Pull PF, remove connectors, remove head, remove playfield. Then you can almost move it by yourself

That's appealing . . . but with my mechanical skills I'd put aside at least 15 minutes for the job and then wonder how I broke whatever I managed to break this time.

#6456 20 days ago
Quoted from pcprogrammer:

If you buy a new one be prepared to lose at least $1,500 to $2,000. Just the reality of this pin. It's an awesome pin though, someday I'll get one myself.

I agree - buying used is the way to go on Hobbit as they are a bit undervalued in the market. You'll also pay tax + shipping on a new pin so you could end up losing up to $3500. With the incredible new code update, I think you'll finally start seeing aftermarket prices trickle upwards over time - similar to STLE after it received a solid code update. I would guess used prices will eventually settle at $7500 - similar to WoZ.

#6457 20 days ago

Yes, 100%. WOZ is pretty easy too. Dialed In is WAAAAAAY not. Still easier than a B/W though.

I am not correct that it’s “the” easiest though - I think that might go to a Stern Spike2 game or Houdini. Houdini is like 2 minutes

#6458 20 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Yes, 100%. WOZ is pretty easy too. Dialed In is WAAAAAAY not. Still easier than a B/W though.

Agreed, and with the weight if this pin it's the best way to go if you have to deal with stairs...even if you have a few friends on hand..

#6459 20 days ago

Well - I'm a proud owner of a black arrow edition Hobbit as of today. Got it home and set up and everything seems to be working as intended - with one exception. I'm getting static through the speakers, and the noise seems to change with the playfield LED pattern changes - though it's possible its the LCD screen scene changes. When I tested it prior to purchase at the sellers house I didn't hear this, but it's possible I may not have been paying attention.

Any thoughts on what may have slightly jostled loose during transport? I'm a musician and I've run across all kinds of interference issues. This isn't 60 cycle hum - sounds sort of like slight RF pickup or something? Could be dirty power from the house, but I used to have a WOZ plugged in there and it never did this. Also I should note the noises are much more pronounced when the machine is booting up and reading from what I assume is the HD. Im running 3.1.

#6460 20 days ago

Add a ground loop isolator as used in car stereos between motherboard and sound board. Gets rid of the noise.

#6461 20 days ago

Can try that. I noticed when I was going through the menu settings and pulled up the digital version of the manual the noise got much worse

#6462 20 days ago
Quoted from Nytewatch33:

Well - I'm a proud owner of a black arrow edition Hobbit as of today. Got it home and set up and everything seems to be working as intended - with one exception. I'm getting static through the speakers, and the noise seems to change with the playfield LED pattern changes - though it's possible its the LCD screen scene changes. When I tested it prior to purchase at the sellers house I didn't hear this, but it's possible I may not have been paying attention.
Any thoughts on what may have slightly jostled loose during transport? I'm a musician and I've run across all kinds of interference issues. This isn't 60 cycle hum - sounds sort of like slight RF pickup or something? Could be dirty power from the house, but I used to have a WOZ plugged in there and it never did this. Also I should note the noises are much more pronounced when the machine is booting up and reading from what I assume is the HD. Im running 3.1.

Make sure no wires especially audio are over or stuck on the cabinet speaker.

Add a ground loop isolator possibly.

I had the ground loop isolator but rerouted a bunch of wires and now no more static in the speakers.

#6463 20 days ago

Checked the wires and connections. Everything looks good. The sounds all sound similar to what I used to hear in older pcs when you'd heard the hard drive being read through the speakers. I will give the isolator a try. I did find one plug unplugged in there but no obvious connection - ground, power and common wire going to a plug coming off of the line filter box assembly. Line filter sounds like line conditioner to me (which would be the obvious issue if something isn't plugged into the power line conditioner/filter. It was labeled "AC power box" - but the AC power box by the coin box has power and ground going to it already. Maybe that's just a plug for a topper or something?

#6464 20 days ago

Question - did the hobbit originally come with an isolator? The reason I ask is on page d-77 of the manual. for the sound amplifier board, the J2 connection says"3.5mm audio cable from CPU board (audio out). through Ground Loop Isolator.

One other question - this machine came with yellow and red flippers and a gold Smaug. Did some machines come with black flippers and a red smaug and then others were like mine?

#6465 20 days ago

There are two different Smaugs - gold and red. Except for the color they are basically the same. The prototype Hobbits had GLIs if I recall but they were not in the production build. Lots of folks have added them though after the fact. Occasionally there has been a situation where installing one will not only remove pretty much all of the noise and static but also knock the speech levels down some. Fortunately, Hobbit has written into its code several different sound adjustments and you can alter the speech levels and the music and sound effects in the settings so that you can make everything sound good and solid if installing an isolator should knock down the speech level somewhat. More often than not the isolator does the job fine with no side effects. In addition, installing one makes no permanent changes to the game (there is no soldering or anything you can just plug it in between the motherboard and sound board), so if you want to remove or bypass it later, no harm done. Get one with a 3.5mm mic style female port and male plug, then unplug the cable going into the pink jack on the sound board, plug that into the female port on the isolator, then plug the male cable coming from the isolator into the pink jack. That’s basically it. I mean if you want to do so, of course.

#6466 20 days ago

That description you quoted may be a hold over from the WOZ manual (I am not entirely sure) because the initial WOZ runs included GLIs in production machines.

#6467 19 days ago

Well as I wait for my isolator to arrive, I wanted to eliminate the house power. So I plugged the pin directly into my energy kodiak solar generator (big lithium battery with inverter) which is 100% pure sine wave and clean power. Same issue. It's really significant noise and in no way subtle. I sure hope this isolator works.

#6468 19 days ago

Why aren't they installing those ground loop isolators at the factory?!!?!?! SMH....

#6469 19 days ago
Quoted from thewool:

Why aren't they installing those ground loop isolators at the factory?!!?!?! SMH....

Mine has one

DI did not come with them, but they were supplied free of charge

#6470 19 days ago
Quoted from thewool:

Why aren't they installing those ground loop isolators at the factory?!!?!?! SMH....

My WOZ has one, my TH did not.
I installed one in my TH. One day after an update it started making noise, It ended up being the isolator.
I didnt think these things could ever go bad, really odd.
I removed the isolator and the static is gone!

I did however move around the lower cabinet wires during a vacuuming job. Its possible that the noise was from a wire crossing over the speaker.

So, I say move the wires around while the game is running and see if the noise changes or goes away. If not then install the isolator.

#6471 19 days ago

nytewatch33 Black Arrow edition is standard with black flippers. I har the same problem with the sound on my black edition bur the ground loop isolator got it fixed 100%.

#6472 19 days ago

It’s ridiculous that they are still sending out NIB Black Arrows without a ground loop isolator, when it is a known issue.
All the people I know in the UK, including myself, who have bought one, have then had to buy a GLI from a 3rd party.
Pretty poor IMO.

#6473 19 days ago

Actually JJP was extremely helpful today. I called them and left a message, and two different really great technicians called back and they are sending me a GLI at no cost. Also I learned that they made some changes to BAE after the initial flyers were printed and the initial run of BA editions were shipped. Evidently the early versions shipped with black flippers, but they later changed to the yellow/red ones. Also is sounds like the Smaug may have been red on some of the earlier ones, and on the more recent ones is gold.

10
#6474 18 days ago

Had my best game in a year last night. Played all wizard modes except TABA. I was 8 modes away from TABA. That was a rush!!!

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#6475 17 days ago

Had to pick one up after the latest code update, such a great game!

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#6476 16 days ago
Quoted from Cloud7:

Had to pick one up after the latest code update, such a great game!

Nice having it next to Lotr .

#6477 16 days ago
Quoted from screaminr:

Nice having it next to Lotr .

It seemed like the right thing to do.

#6478 16 days ago
Quoted from Cloud7:

Had to pick one up after the latest code update, such a great game!
[quoted image]

You won’t be sorry. This and Houdini are the best packages for the money in Pinball right now

#6479 16 days ago

New owner, first time updating code myself. I just updated to 3.10 without issues via JJ online directions, prior to doing so I made a pair of backups on separate flash drives so that I could keep my family scores logged. I have tried doing a settings restore with both flash drives and it says it will restart when the resoration is finished. What is the expected time for this to occur. My first try I restarted it after about 15min. Next try I reset it after 2hrs. Next two attempts after that long try cleared on their own after 5min time but did not load any old scores nor did it reset the game. I rebooted the game to see if that would cause a reload but got the same baseline scores. I’ve read that people have issues with this. Any advise?

#6480 16 days ago
Quoted from Furio:

New owner, first time updating code myself. I just updated to 3.10 without issues via JJ online directions, prior to doing so I made a pair of backups on separate flash drives so that I could keep my family scores logged. I have tried doing a settings restore with both flash drives and it says it will restart when the resoration is finished. What is the expected time for this to occur. My first try I restarted it after about 15min. Next try I reset it after 2hrs. Next two attempts after that long try cleared on their own after 5min time but did not load any old scores nor did it reset the game. I rebooted the game to see if that would cause a reload but got the same baseline scores. I’ve read that people have issues with this. Any advise?

Restore settings takes about 30 seconds.

The screen will tell you it worked and what to do.

Copy your settings to a different freshly formatted 4 or 8gb usb 2 flash drive and try again.

You are using the usb settings restore in the service menu correct?

Follow the instructions on the screen.

Also you can push the flash drive into one of the USB ports in back of the big silver box (computer) if they dont like the long cable to the ftont.

#6481 15 days ago

As a new owner of a Black Arrow I've got some basic questions that have emerged in my first week of ownership,

1) What is the consequence of completing modes in a higher tier? Is it only a factor in the bonus score?
2) I believe that the hexagons on the back screen are supposed to show modes completed vs modes started, but I can't see a difference. What should I be looking for?
3) In the status screen I can see the modes have little icons after them, that seem to be grey initially, what exactly do they represent?
4) Finally, every ball I play to the left ramp that crosses to the right, comes off into the barrels. I've reduced power strength to the flipper coils and changes playfield pitch tol no avail. I have a newer metal ramp with the changed design, but still comes off. Anyone successfully found a way to prevent this or slow the ball as it curls round the top?

Sorry if the answers to these are obvious, but I can't find a rule sheet that is up to date on the latest code

#6482 15 days ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

4) Finally, every ball I play to the left ramp that crosses to the right, comes off into the barrels. I've reduced power strength to the flipper coils and changes playfield pitch tol no avail. I have a newer metal ramp with the changed design, but still comes off. Anyone successfully found a way to prevent this or slow the ball as it curls round the top?

Set the playfield pitch to 7.2 degrees.

Your flipper power is too high

Properly set the flipper power so that on a clean shot the ball goes rapidly up the ramp but decelerates at the top and rolls with gravity down the wireform.
On a weak shot the ball should not make it up the ramp but roll back down.
From a cradled position you should be able to make both sides of the ramp, from left or right flipper but it should do it weakly.

On my game the right flipper from a cradled position barely makes it over the right ramp, but it does so every time.

If all of these conditions are met then careful bending of the wireform in places or adding washers on supports to tilt the wireform is how its adjusted.

#6483 15 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Restore settings takes about 30 seconds.
The screen will tell you it worked and what to do.
Copy your settings to a different freshly formatted 4 or 8gb usb 2 flash drive and try again.
You are using the usb settings restore in the service menu correct?
Follow the instructions on the screen.
Also you can push the flash drive into one of the USB ports in back of the big silver box (computer) if they dont like the long cable to the ftont.

Taking your advice, I tried using every USB plug, reformatted my flash drive as well. None of those options allowed the scores to load. It's been very annoying. Not sure why it isn't loading properly. I check the files and it clearly looks like a pinball save file. The restores when they take are about 1min, but most times they just sit on the screen saying hit enter, I do so and nothing happens.

#6484 15 days ago
Quoted from Furio:

Taking your advice, I tried using every USB plug, reformatted my flash drive as well. None of those options allowed the scores to load. It's been very annoying. Not sure why it isn't loading properly. I check the files and it clearly looks like a pinball save file. The restores when they take are about 1min, but most times they just sit on the screen saying hit enter, I do so and nothing happens.

I've had that happen.
The game doesn't like your flash drives.

The game really likes USB 2.0, 4 and 8gb drives

#6485 14 days ago

So I was able to finally pick up a Smaug ddition a few weeks ago and I must say this game it's really great, especially with the new code development. I am very happy with the purchase, this is my first Jersey Jack pinball machine. While I love my other games, it is funny when you go from a Jersey Jack pinball machine to one of your other machines, you realize how much quality is put into these machines..haha. Truly amazing.

One thing I noticed last night was that my left flipper started binding. I took a look at the flipper mech under the pf and it was simply just cleaning out the coil sleeve and adding just a slight bit of lubricant to the plunger mechanism and everything was good to go.
I will say, that I've never used flippers as much during a given game as I have in this Hobbit game (so much to do, so much to hit, so many mb's, etc), but I was surprised to see that the coil sleeves were already so gunked up so soon. Wow, 3 weeks? Have others noticed the same thing on their flippers, is this an expected maintenance for this game, or was this likely just a one-time NIB freak event.

Thanks, and great to finally be in the club!!

#6486 14 days ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

So I was able to finally pick up a Smaug ddition a few weeks ago and I must say this game it's really great, especially with the new code development. I am very happy with the purchase, this is my first Jersey Jack pinball machine. While I love my other games, it is funny when you go from a Jersey Jack pinball machine to one of your other machines, you realize how much quality is put into these machines..haha. Truly amazing.

Well said!

I have owned every JJP machine (some several times!) and have never experienced the flipper binding as you described, not once. Is it possible the previous owner fiddled around with it?

You should *not* have to apply any lubricant to the flippers BTW, and it is overwhelmingly the standard to not use such lube, as it can get into the other parts where you don't want it. More than likely it's fine, but I'm just saying you should never expect to have to to do that.

#6487 14 days ago
Quoted from ChipScott:

So I was able to finally pick up a Smaug ddition a few weeks ago and I must say this game it's really great, especially with the new code development. I am very happy with the purchase, this is my first Jersey Jack pinball machine. While I love my other games, it is funny when you go from a Jersey Jack pinball machine to one of your other machines, you realize how much quality is put into these machines..haha. Truly amazing.
One thing I noticed last night was that my left flipper started binding. I took a look at the flipper mech under the pf and it was simply just cleaning out the coil sleeve and adding just a slight bit of lubricant to the plunger mechanism and everything was good to go.
I will say, that I've never used flippers as much during a given game as I have in this Hobbit game (so much to do, so much to hit, so many mb's, etc), but I was surprised to see that the coil sleeves were already so gunked up so soon. Wow, 3 weeks? Have others noticed the same thing on their flippers, is this an expected maintenance for this game, or was this likely just a one-time NIB freak event.
Thanks, and great to finally be in the club!!

Buy a rebuild kit and fix your flippers. Never use lube, it's probably why they were giving you trouble to begin with.

#6488 14 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I've had that happen.
The game doesn't like your flash drives.
The game really likes USB 2.0, 4 and 8gb drives

That could be the issue. I have 2 new 3.0 16GB, and an old 2.0 2GB. I will order one of those and see where things go.

#6489 14 days ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

Well said!
I have owned every JJP machine (some several times!) and have never experienced the flipper binding as you described, not once. Is it possible the previous owner fiddled around with it?
You should *not* have to apply any lubricant to the flippers BTW, and it is overwhelmingly the standard to not use such lube, as it can get into the other parts where you don't want it. More than likely it's fine, but I'm just saying you should never expect to have to to do that.

Thanks! Good to hear. Yeah, the game is incredible. Loving it.

Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Buy a rebuild kit and fix your flippers. Never use lube, it's probably why they were giving you trouble to begin with.

Thanks. Yeah, if it occurs again, rebuild it is.

#6490 12 days ago

My Warg target pops up and instantly triggers a hit and drops back down. Anyone seen this? In the beast test I can see the switch fluttering as the best rises and falls. What do I need to do to fix this.

#6491 12 days ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

My Warg target pops up and instantly triggers a hit and drops back down. Anyone seen this? In the beast test I can see the switch fluttering as the best rises and falls. What do I need to do to fix this.

You may just need to adjust the switch a tiny bit and space it out more. Make sure you have a proper leaf adjustment tool, do not use a screwdriver!

#6492 12 days ago
Quoted from DarthSinex:

My Warg target pops up and instantly triggers a hit and drops back down. Anyone seen this? In the beast test I can see the switch fluttering as the best rises and falls. What do I need to do to fix this.

As Rdoyle said.
Open the gap in the leaf switch a bit like 1/16"

Way more than say a pop bumper switch.

The character heads wobble a good amount due to their weight.

Normally the Warg head needs the widest switch gap because the extended snout makes it wobble more.

#6493 12 days ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

As Rdoyle said.
Open the gap in the leaf switch a bit like 1/16"
Way more than say a pop bumper switch.
The character heads wobble a good amount due to their weight.
Normally the Warg head needs the widest switch gap because the extended snout makes it wobble more.

Yep. Had this exact problem several months back. Adding a bit more gap solved it and still working great.

#6494 12 days ago

Great game tonight...BOFA and killed Smaug. That is just one of the greatest shots and cut scenes there is in pinball. I cheared and the kids came running to watch. JJP-POTC needs something like this.

#6495 11 days ago

As I sit here watching the Desolation of Smaug with my daughter and both of us quoting all the callouts, I am now convinced that The Hobbit is my favorite pinball machine of all time. Just perfect.

#6496 10 days ago

Really love my Hobbit, but wondering if the playfield is as it should be.
With the glass off, if I allow a ball to roll from the base of the ramps down to the flippers, how much deflection should I get from the mech covers and the rollovers?
Both seem to be giving me quite a bit of deflection.
I have my pitch at 6.5 between the flippers, which gives me about 7.2 at the ramps and my flipper coils are set at 19.

#6497 10 days ago
Quoted from Bilbo1161:

Really love my Hobbit, but wondering if the playfield is as it should be.
With the glass off, if I allow a ball to roll from the base of the ramps down to the flippers, how much deflection should I get from the mech covers and the rollovers?
Both seem to be giving me quite a bit of deflection.
I have my pitch at 6.5 between the flippers, which gives me about 7.2 at the ramps and my flipper coils are set at 19.

Raise the pitch until the average measured is 7.2 degrees.
Adjust flippers until you can make either ramp from either flipper from a cradled position but no stonger.

#6498 10 days ago
Quoted from VillaThrills:

JJP-POTC needs something like this.

As good as the playfield design is and how deep the code is on Pirates I think it's missing charm and character because of the lack of movie assets and modes . Sadly I think this will always hold it back . The hobbit covers all these bases so well , it's an A+ and will always be my favourite . Plus it helps I love the movies .

#6499 9 days ago

The Hobbit may not be for everyones taste in pinball play. But there is not denying it is a hell of a well done pinball machine. I really love it.

#6500 8 days ago

Hi gang, my Hobbit came with broken lamps on the 4 that point to the pop ups on the pf. These are 12v I think, any links to suggested replacements? Will uv ones make the trap doors 'pop'?

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