(Topic ID: 155578)

Hobbit Owners Thread


By Eryeal

3 years ago



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#501 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks for the tip! Will do.
I ended up ordering a "purple" rated plunger spring for the game. I think that will help with a full plunge not being able to hit the dwarf targets on my game. Also ordered some green Perfect Play flipper bands that I think will look pretty slick on the game.

How are you liking the machine at 6.5* pitch? I still think you need to set into 7* for the best effect. Just install a little post at the left wire ramp, and also bend the end of the hole up a bit, so it sticks up higher so the ball doesnt jump over it. Crank the flippers power up and have at it !

#502 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

A few items I need to adjust out of the box.
1. Plunger spring is too weak to reach the "dwarf" drop targets. Going to replace.
2. Rollovers seem too be up to high and may be causing some of the airballs. Will lower.
3. Setting the game to a 7 degree pitch resulted in the ball falling off of the far left habit rail often. I set it back to the recommended 6.5 degree setting.
Items that need to be corrected through code.
1. Shaker motor is making a bit of a squeaking sound. Others have reported this since updating to version 1.10.
Stuck balls at far left habit rail and pop ups?
I haven't seen a ball get stuck at the far left habit rail. I did have one ball get stuck in a pop up as it was coming down but a few seconds later it came out.
Update tips
1. I originally downloaded the 1.10 update file, unzipped it to my hard drive and copied it over to the my thumb drive. When attempting to update the game I got a "no update folder found" error. Turns out if you unzip the file directly to your USB thumb drive (root, nothing else on it) it will have a different folder name "hobbit_update" versus "TheHobbit_Delta_v1.10" if you unzip it to a local drive (I'm running Windows 10 btw). I'm not sure why the folder name changes based on if it's extracted to a USB thumb drive or to a local HD drive but in order for me to get the update to work I had to unzip the file from my local hard drive to the USB thumb drive.

I thought the plunger spring was too weak also, but me and everyone else has backtracked off this idea.
You might just have a bad spring.
Check that the plunger hits the center of the ball and there are no obstructions, adjust if necessary.
A bent plunger will also cause weak plunges.
Some have reported that a little dry lube on the plunger rod helps a lot, Teflon or silicone dry spray lube, due to the fact you want it to be super weak but controllable.

The spring has to be incredibly weak to make all the skill shots.
A proper spring gently hits the a or r in dwarf depending on the playfield pitch. A super careful shot will also hit the left hole. An extremely gentle pull will hit the right outlane for big points.

Push the flipper rubbers higher on the bats to combat airballs.

The game fresh out of the box is very fast, balls go everywhere.
At about 50 plays it will settle down, this is where all the tweaks come in e.g. 7 degree pitch flippers at 25 or 26.

Check the roll overs with a ball, just let it roll down on them from just before the ramps. They should compress and be a tiny bit above the surface of the playfield to avoid clearcoat chipping. They will soften out in a few plays.

A lot of us have been sorting out the left wire-form. I have tweaked mine a lot and it works perfectly now. I do think they should re-design it to allow for faster game play. The same holds true for the right wire-form and the ramps themselves. If you raise the flipper power to 29-32 the ball will launch over the ramps and hit the backboard, and never stay on the wire-forms.

Opening the loop and bending it up on the left wireform fixes some things. Adding a post at the lower attachment screw fixes other things. Warping and adjusting or in some cases carving the wireform itself has been very effective to get it just right.

Put the shaker on high for awhile extreme is not necessary. You can oil the shaft on the shaker but I wouldn't do that, I would just let it break in for a hundred games or so and it should get better. If it gets worse JJP will send you a new one.

Setting the playfield pitch to 7 degrees seems about perfect after about 50 plays, after the game has settled down a bit.

A full plunge hits the the A or R in dwarf the kickback flows the ball up the right guide towards the pops and rolls back smoothly.

A higher pitch makes the kickback bounce off the rubber instead of going up the guide, this is fun but a little too random for me.

#503 3 years ago

Dis is mine view,normaly hobbit LE come around 15 June

image_(resized).jpg

#504 3 years ago

Very good summary pinballinreno.

The only addition I would make is to add a little teflon lube to the shooter rod if the ball is not making it to the drop targets.

#505 3 years ago

Ok guys!!! I have perfectly dialed in my Hobbit LE. Today, the changes I made turned this game into a blazing fast pin. I had to actually turn the flipper power down 3-4 notches because of the airballs this caused.

I did the following:

1) Waxed playfield with a different wax this time, Mill Wax playfield wax & cleaner- let it dry and then buffed it out
2) Pinball Life Oh Shiny balls
3) Super band rubbers
4) Flippers at 24 left, 27 right power

I cannot believe the difference after those 3 things. Everything moves so quickly, theres little to no floatiness, and power must be turned down on flippers! This should be a mandatory thing to do after pulling it out of the box.

This, with 7* pitch - wireform post on left side, and bending loop on left wireform upwards to prevent hop overs, has made this thing awesome. Anyone with speed complaints must try this pin with those fixes/changes/upgrades because its a world of a difference.

Also, for the plunger- I did use some silicone spray on the shaft and its much smoother and plunges the ball way better- no spring change necessary.

#506 3 years ago

Hmmm...I guess I should trade my Hobbit for a Cyclone pinball machine ... pinside ratings says it's better

#507 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

1) Waxed playfield with a different wax this time, Mill Wax playfield wax & cleaner- let it dry and then buffed it out

Did you know Millwax isn't wax? You unfortunately just put silicone all over your playfield.

#508 3 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Very good summary pinballinreno.
The only addition I would make is to add a little teflon lube to the shooter rod if the ball is not making it to the drop targets.

Oh! I forgot about that, thx. I just editted that in.

#509 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

Did you know Millwax isn't wax? You unfortunately just put silicone all over your playfield.

amazon.com link »

So you are saying that we should just clean with novus and use a real wax? (if so what wax would you recommend)?

#510 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Ok guys!!! I have perfectly dialed in my Hobbit LE. Today, the changes I made turned this game into a blazing fast pin. I had to actually turn the flipper power down 3-4 notches because of the airballs this caused.
I did the following:
1) Waxed playfield with a different wax this time, Mill Wax playfield wax & cleaner- let it dry and then buffed it out
2) Pinball Life Oh Shiny balls
3) Super band rubbers
4) Flippers at 24 left, 27 right power
I cannot believe the difference after those 3 things. Everything moves so quickly, theres little to no floatiness, and power must be turned down on flippers! This should be a mandatory thing to do after pulling it out of the box.
This, with 7* pitch - wireform post on left side, and bending loop on left wireform upwards to prevent hop overs, has made this thing awesome. Anyone with speed complaints must try this pin with those fixes/changes/upgrades because its a world of a difference.
Also, for the plunger- I did use some silicone spray on the shaft and its much smoother and plunges the ball way better- no spring change necessary.

I have used Mill Wax before on older playfields, it worked pretty good at the time. Doesnt last too long but was cheap and fast to apply.

Im not to concerned about silicones in the clearcoat they can be washed out with some of the newer cleaners mostly and a fish-eye additive to re-clear later on if needed.

Newer clearcoat waxes are pretty good on modern playfields.

Carnauba wax is as hard as concrete after all the petroleum distillations evaporate out of it. Some guys use a hair dryer after the wax job is done to dry it out, like at an indoor car show. Its used on cars because of this hardness but, cars cook in the sun all day, pinball machines do not, so the issue is getting it to cure or dry out. I use the hair dryer method if Im in a hurry.

I like the grand 1000, but its hard to get and leaves white dust that you have to vacuum up or wipe off.

Right now I like P21s wax, I use it on my car its really good stuff it doesnt leave any white residue, maybe a haze if you miss a spot
the thinnest coat is all you need, but its spendy. I really like it a lot and it lasts a long time. I let it cure a day or so before playing on it.
Im not putting it on plastic ramps, metal ones and wireforms should be ok, but I havent tried yet....Kpg has me thinking now...

amazon.com link »

#511 3 years ago

Wizards Mist and Shine is what JJP recommended for WOZ. I expect it would be the same with the Hobbit. Not sure how it compares to other stuff people are using.

amazon.com link »

#512 3 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Wizards Mist and Shine is what JJP recommended for WOZ. I expect it would be the same with the Hobbit. Not sure how it compares to other stuff people are using.
amazon.com link »

I use this for between waxings its really good stuff! And sparkle glass cleaner wont remove the coating on the glass, and novus 1 to clean the plastics. All with micofiber cloths they are cheap and can be washed and dried but dont use dryer sheets or fabric softeners on them.

I just recently waxed my Hobbit™ at 250 plays with the p21s wax.

#513 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

Did you know Millwax isn't wax? You unfortunately just put silicone all over your playfield.

I honestly don't care what its made from, it works great on the playfield and I doubt it will hurt anything - its designed to wax pinball machines. I'm happy with it..

#514 3 years ago

Thanks Kpg for all the tips! I'll be trying some of those out and will give a 7 degree pitch another shot.

#515 3 years ago
Quoted from Jvspin:

Wizards Mist and Shine is what JJP recommended for WOZ. I expect it would be the same with the Hobbit. Not sure how it compares to other stuff people are using.
amazon.com link »

Better then that would be Meguiar's ultimate quik wax - I use it on my machines in between liquid wax - works awesome..

amazon.com link »

#516 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks Kpg for all the tips! I'll be trying some of those out and will give a 7 degree pitch another shot.

Definitely man, just make the tweaks necessary at that pitch to make it work. I no longer have the ball hopping the rail on the left ramp/windlance area, by simply bending the end up a bit more, so it catches the ball better.

#517 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:

amazon.com link »
So you are saying that we should just clean with novus and use a real wax? (if so what wax would you recommend)?

If you clean your game regularly you could use Novus 1 to clean the field and a good caranuba wax like this one @ Amazon (which I use personally):

amazon.com link »

I wouldn't even recommend Novus 2 for regular use because it is a mild abrasive but of course there are much worse cleaners you could be using. It's just not my go to choice for a game that is maintained regularly. Novus 2 is great for new to you games that are dirty and haven't been taken care of.

I think I clean my games every 100 games or so, give or take a few, depending on how the game looks.

#518 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Definitely man, just make the tweaks necessary at that pitch to make it work. I no longer have the ball hopping the rail on the left ramp/windlance area, by simply bending the end up a bit more, so it catches the ball better.

Nice, I've had that happen a few times on my game as well. Did you bend the end of the far left habit rail while it was still in the game or remove it?

#519 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I honestly don't care what its made from, it works great on the playfield and I doubt it will hurt anything - its designed to wax pinball machines. I'm happy with it..

If that's what you like go for it. I wouldn't buy a game knowing that someone used Millwax to maintain it. The name itself is misleading. Why put wax in the name if it doesn't contain wax?

#520 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

If that's what you like go for it. I wouldn't buy a game knowing that someone used Millwax to maintain it. The name itself is misleading. Why put wax in the name if it doesn't contain wax?

What is wrong with it and what are the reasons you wouldn't want a game thats had it on there? I guess I don't understand what the big deal is. Enlighten me please, I'm listening

#521 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

What is wrong with it and what are the reasons you wouldn't want a game thats had it on there? I guess I don't understand what the big deal is. Enlighten me please, I'm listening

It's pretty simple really. It has no wax (not even 0.00000001%) and offers zero protection. Its flammable (contains petroleum distillates). It contains silicone so you can never clearcoat the playfield ever again. It's false advertising in a bottle.

Here is a great post by Clay Harrell:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mill-wax-again#post-337198

There is a lot more out there if you search. Is your game going to blow up? No Could you be using a better product? Most definitely!!

#522 3 years ago
Quoted from metahugh:

If you clean your game regularly you could use Novus 1 to clean the field and a good caranuba wax like this one @ Amazon (which I use personally):
amazon.com link »
I wouldn't even recommend Novus 2 for regular use because it is a mild abrasive but of course there are much worse cleaners you could be using. It's just not my go to choice for a game that is maintained regularly. Novus 2 is great for new to you games that are dirty and haven't been taken care of.
I think I clean my games every 100 games or so, give or take a few, depending on how the game looks.

That is the same combo I use with all of my clear coated games, works great. Novus 1, then caranuba wax.

#523 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

What is wrong with it and what are the reasons you wouldn't want a game thats had it on there? I guess I don't understand what the big deal is. Enlighten me please, I'm listening

Mill wax is fast playing but too soft to do any protrection.

If you are trying to protect the surface you need a hard wax that will hold up to metal balls running all over it.

If you are wanting it to be fast, pledge works great, but might yellow the clearcoat or crack it in time and only last like 5 games.

Carnauba wax is ideal for what we want over all.

Johnsons, meguires, turtle wax etc have carnauba wax in them but a lower concentration per applicstion. They can be mostly water and petroleum, there by being less expensive. Especially liquid waxes.

If you buy carnauba wax it should smell like a candle and not smell too chemcally. Then you know you are getting more wax for your money.

Liquid waxes dont put down enough wax per application to do what we want without waxing it every day.

Again, I like grand 1000 and P21S they have pretty much the most wax per application you can buy.

All carnauba has petroleum distillates in it to melt the wax for application. Otherwise you would have to heat it up to liquefy it and pour it on.

So this is not an issue.

Some cheap waxes can melt the plastics due to cheap petroleum in them.

#524 3 years ago

Go to 'cleaning and waxing pinball playfields- Vid's guide'.
Everything you wanted to know about waxes and what not to use. It's enlightening.
Bottom line- stay away from milwax.

#525 3 years ago
Quoted from Hitch9:

Go to 'cleaning and waxing pinball playfields- Vid's guide'.
Everything you wanted to know about waxes and what not to use. It's enlightening.
Bottom line- stay away from milwax.

Wildcat 125, CP100 and millwax were the standard decades ago and recommended by Bally™.

Things have changed a lot since then.

Its not so much about making money and throwing away the pin when it stops performing, its about preservation since they cost a lot now.

#526 3 years ago
Quoted from Goronic:So you are saying that we should just clean with novus and use a real wax? (if so what wax would you recommend)?

I know that it is common for people in this hobby to use Novus 1 for regular cleaning of their playfield, but I really don't understand why. I mean I don't think it will hurt your pf or anything, but why use a product that was made for plastic on a PF?

For regular cleaning of your PF and an easy way to reinforce your wax by providing a small amount of extra protection (instead of using a cleaner that could actually remove your wax) I have long recommended (and use) Optimum's Opti-Clean. I use it every time I take the glass off. Note that this is not for heavy duty cleaning of a very dirty PF. It's for maintenance type of cleaning.

amazon.com link »

Quoted from pinballinreno:

I like the grand 1000, but its hard to get and leaves white dust that you have to vacuum up or wipe off.
Right now I like PS21 wax, I use it on my car its really good stuff it doesnt leave any white residue, maybe a haze if you miss a spot
the thinnest coat is all you need, but its spendy. I really like it a lot and it lasts a long time. I let it cure a day or so before playing on it.

Again, another product that tons of Pinsiders love to use is the Blitz One Grand. I don't like it for the very reasons that you state: it leaves white dust and it also easily accumulates in areas such as star posts. I recently purchased a pin from a good friend who uses Blitz. I had to use a toothbrush to remove some of the white buildup in the star posts.

While I agree completely that P21S is a great wax and won't leave white residue or buildup behind, I don't think you really need to spend that kind of money on a high end wax to get the results we want on a pin.

Collinite's 845 Insulator wax can be purchased for half the price of the P21S, will probably provide even better protection, and will not leave white dust or buildup in the star posts if used correctly (i.e, do not apply much at all). 845 wipes away completely clean. It also provides one of the slickest surfaces of any of the waxes, so it can make the PF very fast. This can actually be considered a drawback. The difference in ball speed is significant.

amazon.com link »

#527 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Wildcat 125, CP100 and millwax were the standard decades ago and recommended by Bally™.

And they wanted you to operate your game and junk it in a few years.

We have since learned how to take better care of these machines.

LTG : )

#528 3 years ago

What if you used a good quality carnauba, then put some Millwax on top for the speed benefits?

#529 3 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

I know that it is common for people in this hobby to use Novus 1 for regular cleaning of their playfield, but I really don't understand why. I mean I don't think it will hurt your pf or anything, but why use a product that was made for plastic on a PF?
For regular cleaning of your PF and an easy way to reinforce your wax by providing a small amount of extra protection (instead of using a cleaner that could actually remove your wax) I have long recommended (and use) Optimum's Opti-Clean. I use it every time I take the glass off. Note that this is not for heavy duty cleaning of a very dirty PF. It's for maintenance type of cleaning.
amazon.com link »

Again, another product that tons of Pinsiders love to use is the Blitz One Grand. I don't like it for the very reasons that you state: it leaves white dust and it also easily accumulates in areas such as star posts. I recently purchased a pin from a good friend who uses Blitz. I had to use a toothbrush to remove some of the white buildup in the star posts.
While I agree completely that P21S is a great wax and won't leave white residue or buildup behind, I don't think you really need to spend that kind of money on a high end wax to get the results we want on a pin.
Collinite's 845 Insulator wax can be purchased for half the price of the P21S, will probably provide even better protection, and will not leave white dust or buildup in the star posts if used correctly (i.e, do not apply much at all). 845 wipes away completely clean. It also provides one of the slickest surfaces of any of the waxes, so it can make the PF very fast. This can actually be considered a drawback. The difference in ball speed is significant.
amazon.com link »

Thanks for the tip Collinite's 845 Insulator wax looks like it might weather better on my Porsche (as if it has ever seen rain!)
Liquid waxes are generally easier to apply than paste waxes. You can get them on thinner, and thinner is better.

When I run out of P21S Ill give it a try!

#530 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

What if you used a good quality carnauba, then put some Millwax on top for the speed benefits?

Mill wax will probably remove the carnauba

#531 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Nice, I've had that happen a few times on my game as well. Did you bend the end of the far left habit rail while it was still in the game or remove it?

Yeah- I bent it while still on the game- just put pressure on the rear part of the hole, while bending the front of it up a bit.

#532 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

Mill wax will probably remove the carnuba

Exactly right.

Edit: other than your spelling of "carnauba."

#533 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Ok guys!!! I have perfectly dialed in my Hobbit LE. Today, the changes I made turned this game into a blazing fast pin. I had to actually turn the flipper power down 3-4 notches because of the airballs this caused.
I did the following:
1) Waxed playfield with a different wax this time, Mill Wax playfield wax & cleaner- let it dry and then buffed it out
2) Pinball Life Oh Shiny balls
3) Super band rubbers
4) Flippers at 24 left, 27 right power
I cannot believe the difference after those 3 things. Everything moves so quickly, theres little to no floatiness, and power must be turned down on flippers! This should be a mandatory thing to do after pulling it out of the box.
This, with 7* pitch - wireform post on left side, and bending loop on left wireform upwards to prevent hop overs, has made this thing awesome. Anyone with speed complaints must try this pin with those fixes/changes/upgrades because its a world of a difference.
Also, for the plunger- I did use some silicone spray on the shaft and its much smoother and plunges the ball way better- no spring change necessary.

Whatever you do don't ever use millwax on any game ever again. It's an abrasive. It is not to be used on newer cleared playfield. Used a proper petroleum free automotive wax.

#534 3 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

Collinite's 845 Insulator wax

Great stuff! We use this on our sportfish boat's aluminum tuna tower, etc. Easy on/Easy off and does a great job of cleaning and protecting from pitting due to saltwater. Pretty much everyone in the marine industry uses it for towers. If it's good enough for those it should do well on playfields. Imagine it could be used on habitrails, ramps, or any other metal parts on a pin that need cleaning.

#535 3 years ago

Thinking about picking up some gold Pinball Life flipper bats. Anyone seen these used on the Hobbit? If so, any thoughts and suggestions on what color rubbers to match them with?

If the gold isn't good, what other colors have y'all tried?

#536 3 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

Exactly right.
Edit: other than your spelling of "carnauba."

Thanks RobT all fixed now!

#537 3 years ago
Quoted from BoozeMarlin:

Great stuff! We use this on our sportfish boat's aluminum tuna tower, etc. Easy on/Easy off and does a great job of cleaning and protecting from pitting due to saltwater. Pretty much everyone in the marine industry uses it for towers. If it's good enough for those it should do well on playfields. Imagine it could be used on habitrails, ramps, or any other metal parts on a pin that need cleaning.

I was thinking the same thing and just ordered some. (Thanks again RobT).

#538 3 years ago

Correct me if I am wrong but my understanding is that you should never use ammonia based cleaners on Invisaglass (like windex) but can use vinegar based cleaners (like windex multipurpose ammonia free cleaner).

#539 3 years ago
Quoted from bonanza:

Correct me if I am wrong but my understanding is that you should never use ammonia based cleaners on Invisaglass

True.

LTG : )

#540 3 years ago
Quoted from RobT:

I know that it is common for people in this hobby to use Novus 1 for regular cleaning of their playfield, but I really don't understand why. I mean I don't think it will hurt your pf or anything, but why use a product that was made for plastic on a PF?
For regular cleaning of your PF and an easy way to reinforce your wax by providing a small amount of extra protection (instead of using a cleaner that could actually remove your wax) I have long recommended (and use) Optimum's Opti-Clean. I use it every time I take the glass off. Note that this is not for heavy duty cleaning of a very dirty PF. It's for maintenance type of cleaning.
amazon.com link »

Again, another product that tons of Pinsiders love to use is the Blitz One Grand. I don't like it for the very reasons that you state: it leaves white dust and it also easily accumulates in areas such as star posts. I recently purchased a pin from a good friend who uses Blitz. I had to use a toothbrush to remove some of the white buildup in the star posts.
While I agree completely that P21S is a great wax and won't leave white residue or buildup behind, I don't think you really need to spend that kind of money on a high end wax to get the results we want on a pin.
Collinite's 845 Insulator wax can be purchased for half the price of the P21S, will probably provide even better protection, and will not leave white dust or buildup in the star posts if used correctly (i.e, do not apply much at all). 845 wipes away completely clean. It also provides one of the slickest surfaces of any of the waxes, so it can make the PF very fast. This can actually be considered a drawback. The difference in ball speed is significant.
amazon.com link »

Novus 1 is ok for a pf with a pf protector, but to clean a pf just use simple green (not the harsh one). Follow with a wax if necessary.

#541 3 years ago
Quoted from Pimp77:

Novus 1 is ok for a pf with a pf protector, but to clean a pf just use simple green (not the harsh one). Follow with a wax if necessary.

Yes, simple green works great for the dirtier pf with a decent amount of grime on it. For normal maintenance and wiping down a pf on a regular basis, I wouldn't use simple green since it can strip your wax. That's why I recommend the Opti-clean.

#542 3 years ago
Quoted from bonanza:

Correct me if I am wrong but my understanding is that you should never use ammonia based cleaners on Invisaglass (like windex) but can use vinegar based cleaners (like windex multipurpose ammonia free cleaner).

Sparkle glass cleaner is really good if you can get it near you. Ace Hardware has it by the gallon here.

#543 3 years ago

still waiting...

#544 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballinreno:

I thought the plunger spring was too weak also, but me and everyone else has backtracked off this idea.
You might just have a bad spring.
Check that the plunger hits the center of the ball and there are no obstructions, adjust if necessary.
A bent plunger will also cause weak plunges.
Some have reported that a little dry lube on the plunger rod helps a lot, Teflon or silicone dry spray lube, due to the fact you want it to be super weak but controllable.
The spring has to be incredibly weak to make all the skill shots.
A proper spring gently hits the a or r in dwarf depending on the playfield pitch. A super careful shot will also hit the left hole. An extremely gentle pull will hit the right outlane for big points.
Push the flipper rubbers higher on the bats to combat airballs.
The game fresh out of the box is very fast, balls go everywhere.
At about 50 plays it will settle down, this is where all the tweaks come in e.g. 7 degree pitch flippers at 25 or 26.
Check the roll overs with a ball, just let it roll down on them from just before the ramps. They should compress and be a tiny bit above the surface of the playfield to avoid clearcoat chipping. They will soften out in a few plays.
A lot of us have been sorting out the left wire-form. I have tweaked mine a lot and it works perfectly now. I do think they should re-design it to allow for faster game play. The same holds true for the right wire-form and the ramps themselves. If you raise the flipper power to 29-32 the ball will launch over the ramps and hit the backboard, and never stay on the wire-forms.
Opening the loop and bending it up on the left wireform fixes some things. Adding a post at the lower attachment screw fixes other things. Warping and adjusting or in some cases carving the wireform itself has been very effective to get it just right.
Put the shaker on high for awhile extreme is not necessary. You can oil the shaft on the shaker but I wouldn't do that, I would just let it break in for a hundred games or so and it should get better. If it gets worse JJP will send you a new one.
Setting the playfield pitch to 7 degrees seems about perfect after about 50 plays, after the game has settled down a bit.
A full plunge hits the the A or R in dwarf the kickback flows the ball up the right guide towards the pops and rolls back smoothly.
A higher pitch makes the kickback bounce off the rubber instead of going up the guide, this is fun but a little too random for me.

Thanks for the tips and suggestions! Yeah, I think my game has a bad plunger spring. I ordered a "purple" rated one off of Pinball Life for a $1 along with some Perfect Play flipper bands. I definitely need to adjust the rollovers down or maybe just need to give them more time to settle as they noticeable alter the balls movement when going over them. Good tip on raising the flipper bands, I'm hoping the Perfect Play silicone bands on ordered reduce the airballs.

The only other thing I really need to figure out at the moment is how to the ball from popping out of the far left wireform. I wonder if JJP could prevent the pop outs if they let the magnet divertor hold onto the ball longer when it shifts habit rails? I tried bending the end up a bit more but it may not be enough. One tip I read on the JJP Google group to prevent pop outs is to put a spacer under the screw of the far left habit rail to raise its height as that ends of slowing the ball down a bit.

#545 3 years ago

So, for those of us wanting to preorder "alternatives" for our hobbit, what should we consider. I am hearing ...

Shooter spring
Leaf switch tool
Flipper bands
Post (for left side return)

What am I missing?

Also, what is the current level of spring? Panzer mentioned upgading to purple, but I see that purple seems to have high tension according to Pinball life. Is that the right upgrade? I dont mind ordering a few colors to get it right.

What post should be ordered? Anyone with a new delivery see a "fix" for this issue in their Hobbit from the factory?

It is getting close. i should have mine within a few weeks. I appreciate all the advice from you "beta" testers.

#546 3 years ago

If you guys are ordering the purple plunger spring you will not be happy, it is **way** too strong. I have the orange spring and tried that one first. You only have to barely pull back the plunger and it flings the ball really hard. It you fling it too hard it hits the top ball guide and won't hit the top of the dwarf targets. It made it near impossible to hit the lower skill shots with any consistency.

I have a few other springs and I installed one with less tension than the orange but more than stock. It was better I thought at the time but I have decided that it's still too strong. I went back to the stock spring and I now understand why they went with it in the first place. I never go for the dwarf back skill shot and even if I do I can easily hit D through R using the stock spring.

I should have trusted that JJP designed the shooter with the stock spring for a reason, now I know. Luckily it is very easy to reverse so worst case you are out $1. Try it out and report back, I'm curious what you guys think.

#547 3 years ago
Quoted from PanzerFreak:

Thanks for the tips and suggestions! Yeah, I think my game has a bad plunger spring. I ordered a "purple" rated one off of Pinball Life for a $1 along with some Perfect Play flipper bands. I definitely need to adjust the rollovers down or maybe just need to give them more time to settle as they noticeable alter the balls movement when going over them. Good tip on raising the flipper bands, I'm hoping the Perfect Play silicone bands on ordered reduce the airballs.
The only other thing I really need to figure out at the moment is how to the ball from popping out of the far left wireform. I wonder if JJP could prevent the pop outs if they let the magnet divertor hold onto the ball longer when it shifts habit rails? I tried bending the end up a bit more but it may not be enough. One tip I read on the JJP Google group to prevent pop outs is to put a spacer under the screw of the far left habit rail to raise its height as that ends of slowing the ball down a bit.

The plunger has to work with a super weak spring.

Again, check that the plunger hits squarely in the center of the ball, check the tip rubber also.
Put some dry lubricant on the plunger shaft.
Check for any binding in the shaft or the housing.
Check the plastic housing sleeve for binding.
Spin the plunger around several times while carefully seeing if its bent.
Maybe the shaft itself is too fat and need to be replaced.
Maybe the PF sits too high and is dragging on the tip rubber.

My WOZ needed to be adjusted NIB. It was easy just loosen the nuts on the shooter housing and move into the correct position, auto-plunger was fine but the regular plunger wouldn't make it to the lane change even. it was too high.

On the left wire-form:

I had to see the left wire-form in action in order to make any corrections. I took about 50 ramp shots and cell phone video to make an assessment.

I also repeatedly rolled 5 balls at a time onto the wire-form and plugged the end with a ball of paper towel, so I could see from the "train" of balls what their true action was.

In my case I had to bank the wire-form in places to compensate for lateral forces in order to keep the ball centered.
I also banked the wire-form, down away from the wall just slightly from level, on the last 8 inches before the loop.

Lastly I bent the loop up 1/4" and opened the loop 1/8" from the bottom of it with pliers. Opening the bottom of the loop causes the ball to drop slightly and "duck" under the loop. This will keep the ball from climbing the wire.

Since then I have raised my flipper power to 27-28 and the ball stays on the wire-form.

2 crescent wrenches and a rag works pretty good for tweaking wire-forms.

On my NIB WOZ the ball wouldn't make it over the cross-over, without dropping out and going STDM, and flew out of the crystal ball VUK wire-form. Easily fixed with some patience and a little bending/tweaking.

#548 3 years ago

Hooked it up to my Polk external sub and the sound is awesome vs without.

Loving the game, 114 total plays on it now. I just had my second reset on it today though, that's 2 out of 114 and in my opinion, two too many. Ive reseated everything and it seems it's software related.

Anyone else having reset issues? If so, let's post the error messages here- here's mine from today

Also, I had emailed JJP technical
Support about the issue last week, about 4 days ago, and no response. My history with WOZ support has been that email and opening tickets is worthless, but phone support is good so I'll try that avenue next.

image_(resized).jpeg

#549 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Hooked it up to my Polk external sub and the sound is awesome vs without.
Loving the game, 114 total plays on it now. I just had my second reset on it today though, that's 2 out of 114 and in my opinion, two too many. Ive reseated everything and it seems it's software related.
Anyone else having reset issues? If so, let's post the error messages here- here's mine from today
Also, I had emailed JJP technical
Support about the issue last week, about 4 days ago, and no response. My history with WOZ support has been that email and opening tickets is worthless, but phone support is good so I'll try that avenue next.

My game hasn't reset once so far.

#550 3 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

Hooked it up to my Polk external sub and the sound is awesome vs without.
Loving the game, 114 total plays on it now. I just had my second reset on it today though, that's 2 out of 114 and in my opinion, two too many. Ive reseated everything and it seems it's software related.
Anyone else having reset issues? If so, let's post the error messages here- here's mine from today
Also, I had emailed JJP technical
Support about the issue last week, about 4 days ago, and no response. My history with WOZ support has been that email and opening tickets is worthless, but phone support is good so I'll try that avenue next.

Swap memory board positions and give that a go. If that doesn't work get new memory. Swapping those boards has apparently fixed my resets (so far).

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