So been playing my Hobbit for a week now. The outlanes are on the hardest setting and the center post is removed.

I have it on medium difficulty and still feel like I'm not even close to killing smaug. Certainly not disappointed that the game is too easy cause it's.. not! At least not with these settings.

Smart man. Anyone playing with the center post is really going themselves a disservice.

Im not sure if disservice is altogehter right...

More like running marathons, instead of a jog in the park or a 100 meter dash?

Haha well put

I find this an intriguing discussion. I remember doing a small test at Midwest Gaming Classic a couple years back (when it was at the Sheraton). Both games were set the same, except one of them had the center post removed and the other did not. Funny thing is, the one with the center post actually had shorter ball time. I think it was due to the fact that people were "relying" on it too much instead of nudging the machine around. This was by no means a scientific test as there were many different players on the machines all weekend, just an observation. I find myself relying on the center post on games whenever there is one installed... and it usually ends with me losing the ball quicker.

I saw Eric Hogbog do it on the new code stream. He plunged the ball to the flippers, then flipped mega late off the tip so the ball crossed to the other flipper and ran up the Outland as it was lit. It was amazing, and I think he even had a name for the move like it was an actual thing.

Shatzing the inlane :

Isn't that the expectation though? No center post equals shorter ball time?

That is just nuts

delete

sorry, i wrote that wrong. it was the opposite of what should have happened. the one WITH the center post had longer times. Like i said, this was by no way scientific and could have just been due to the level of the players playing that weekend and on that game.

Opposite of what should happen I would think is shorter ball times WITH center. It's that what you mean?

Yes, the center post is apparently counterproductive. This may be the case across the board, ironically (Except in John Trudeau games). Every game I have played which has a center
Post saves as many balls as it traps, especially when the ball bounces off the post at an odd angle and is flushed violently from the flipper recoil

Yes, sorry. With a 2 year old and 10 month old my mind tends to wander and I type by reflex. I really need to reread everything I write.

Don’t sweat it, by the time I read it was already changed and I thumbed you up. Any chance to retry your centerpost experiment?

Have any of you had challenges around the ball getting stuck in the right side drop targets (please see pictures below)!
It happens more than I would have thought and liked....

20180909_134947 (resized).jpg

20180909_134951 (resized).jpg

Just a thought. Under the playfield are screws to adjust the height of the drop targets. Why not raise that one up a little ?

LTG : )

There should be an adjustment screw under the plastic target itself. By adjusting this screw you can raise the bottom of the target up so it rests flat with the playfield. I'm at the airport, but in sure LTG can grap a picture of the area for you.

Edit: damnit ltg. You're just too fast. Beet me to it by 22 seconds.

Yeah but I can grap a picture for you.

LTG : )

The nylon screws at the bottom of the assembly, raise and lower the targets. They run through a nut, loosen a nut. Adjust target/screw. Retighten nut.

LTG : )

DSC00600 (resized).JPG

Thanks llyod.

What is your Playfield pitch?
I'm at 7.2 degrees.
I had that happen a lot at 6.5

My flippers are set to 27l and 28r
Also raise the slings to max

If you keep the momentum up in the game it happens rarely if ever.

Thank you all to the very fast responses!
I will be making those adjustment in just a few!

So I hear a horn after the ball comes to the top right flipper. I know you are expected to hit dwarf targets which I do but what is the award for that? Any dear Target?

My pleasure Chirs.

LTG : )

It already does that.

Thanks good to hear, I'll keep an extra eye out to see if I can notice it during a mode.

Book display overlays appear in the three Arkenstone Modes and whenever Smaug breathes fire.

(And this use of the display is intentionally understated. It is book, not a TV.)
--Ted

hey guys - I've been playing so much hobbit that the white wire behind the R drop target has fallen off! The white and green wires connect to the leaf switch that allows the actual yellow R target to register however the white wire fell off.

Has anyone reattached theirs and if so, easiest way to access it? I'm trying to determine if I should go from the top of the PF or bottom. The giant drop target device doesn't make what should be a simple reattach any easier ; )

There are only a few screws in the large target bank.

It drops right out fairly easy.

It sure does! Mine dropped without me touching it! I think it was poorly tighten at the factory.

I loc-tite'ed that sucker...

Mine fell out after about the first 2 weeks of play.

A little titebond3 on the wood screws and it hasn't budged in years!

Stand up targets are screwed to the underside of the playfield. Impossible to solder a wire for the top side. The lugs are below the playfield. You may have to disconnect a couple of connectors and remove the drop target assembly. Once the drop targets are out of the way you should have room to resolder the wire without removing the stand up target.

No easy answer. Sorry.

LTG : )

Thanks. Seems like it has to be done from underneath. Thanks for clarifying. I'll look into it.

The drops can be removed fairly easily to work on the assemblies. I have removed them a few times.

Thanks! All fixed.

I finally got brave enough to take my Center post out. I had been making it to an arkenstone mode or two almost every game. I really like the way removing the post “raises the stakes.” The game has me in my toes again, I really like it!

Open up the outlane posts as well and increase the challenge more.

Hi all,
I've taken delivery of a lovely Hobbit se today, going through the usual post delivery health check and smaug's head won't turn or move his mouth. His max left and right optos are both activated even with his head somewhere inbetween with optos visibly unbroken by the tab that moves with smaug's head. I've unplugged and reseated all cables that I think are related, im assuming something has come loose in transit but any suggestions where to go next gratefully received.....

20180911_201926 (resized).jpg

20180911_202430 (resized).jpg

Make sure your coin door is closed when you test! I can’t tell you how many times I did that..

Thanks mate but def not that! It can't be a faulty opto if both are showing active when neither is engaged. Bit of a head scratcher this one! Doesn't help that I'm used to mid 90s dmd pins and this is like it's been made by NASA when you look under the bonnet!

With the power off does the head move freely?

With the power on can you move the head?

There are only 4 screws to remove the head. It's pretty easy to remove.

Does the head opto board seem to be in order and plugged in?

Check that the motor and servo is plugged in.

Ok guys, I am having that issue with the ramp where the ball exits and then spins out into the outlane. I already bent up the wireform (quite a bit) and am looking for other ideas. foam? A rubber? Help me out here.

Can you post a picture of the wireform end?

I would like to compare it with mine.

Mine does it from time to time and I haven't adjusted it at all. I am thinking about getting clear tubing - the right size - and carefully slicing a small quarter inch piece to wrap the bottom rail to see if that will deaden the spin. I will post the results (if and when I do this)

If the bottom end loops of the wireforms are at a 30 degree angle up from the playfield, the ball spin will end up being lateral and the ball will rattle in the lane instead of spinning out and up.

So, the bend has to be substantial enough to do this.

The upper loop doesn't have to be bent at all unless you just want to match them up.

It's easy to jam a 1/2" nutdriver in it and force it up as necessary from the top.

Ok, with power off head moves freely.

With power on head moves but jerkily with some resistance. Point to note bottom of motor getting very hot but can't see a reason linking this with both optos giving false readings.

Checked all connections without removing head, can't find a loose connection. Do you mean the screws under the pf? Not sure what I'd accomplish taking the head out tbh. Any further thought on where to look on the wiring anyone? Does the switch data run through the data cable j101 or the connector j100 on the same board as the optos? So frustrating!!

Hmmm... you know i think I bent the TOP part of the wf.. I will try the bottom!

The head comes out from the top.

Remove it to get a better view of the servos and board etc.

It's not binding and yes if the motor has power I moves jerky by hand.
That's correct.

Next it looks like it's not getting signal or optos.

Wire unplugged or broken inside a connector?
Opto not soldered properly?

My guess.

Yeah, bending the upper loop does nothing at all.