The Hobbit
Jersey Jack, 2016Just got my NIB Hobbit earlier this week and it worked briefly, but now the ball won't kick out of the trough to start a game. I went into the coil test, and it looks like none of the "pink" coils (#33-40) work anymore. Does anybody know the best place to check for broken or loose wires? TIA.
Download manual here :
http://www.jerseyjackpinball.com/support/
Page D-80 check fuse F708 and then F702 on the I/O board.
LTG : )
Looks like F708 is toast (702 is OK). Guess I'll have to order some fuses. Is there anything I can do (coil settings?) to prevent it from blowing again once I replace it? Thanks!
Quoted from boustrophedonic:Is there anything I can do (coil settings?) to prevent it from blowing again once I replace it?
Only thing I'd check for is if you put in a new fuse and any coil locks on. Turn the game off immediately and check the transistor driving what ever locked on.
LTG : )
Check for any loose wires or broken solder joints. Had a similar issue (balls not launching) and it was actually just a single broken solder connection on the coil itself.
Could be something totally different too but keep an eye out for anything loose!
Make sure to get slo-blo GMA fuses. Reach out to LTG here or the JJP help desk on the JJP website, support portal and they will help.
Quoted from Pinballomatic:get slo-blo GMA fuses
I'm confused on this suggestion. It looks to me like GMA fuses are fast-blow. I ordered some slow-blow fuses since the manual said "time delay".
Hopefully they'll come later this week & I can see if something is locked on.
Fuses came, installed, & nothing appeared locked on. I made it to ball 3 of a test game & the Radagast VUK wouldn't fire in multiball. Checked in coil test & the same set of coils are out. So beyond installing a new fuse, what else should I be looking for to debug this?
Quoted from boustrophedonic:So beyond installing a new fuse, what else should I be looking for to debug this?
Did you put in the right value fuse and a slow blow ( time delayed ) ?
Next I'd give every coil on that fuse a quick look to see if the wiring/coil lugs are close to metal or shorting to metal.
LTG : )
I bought 5A slo-blows, which I think is right according to the manual. I'll check the coil lugs next, thanks.
Nothing obvious on visual inspection. I was kind of curious if the coils are supposed to have diodes or not (or if it's coil-specific). The only reason I ask is because one of the pops does but the others don't.
Cut one and the fuse blew, then cut the other and fuse blew again. Done looking at it for the day but any ideas are appreciated.
Quoted from boustrophedonic:but any ideas are appreciated.
I'd open the coin door. Go into Tests - Coils - Manual, pull out the high power interlock switch to enable high power. And step through the coils one at a time and fire each one once. See if one in particular blows the fuse. Then you'd know which coil is bad.
LTG : )
Got about an hour's worth of testing and so far, so good with the new coil. There's a little slit in the coil wrapper of the original coil with what looks like could be exposed wire, so it's looking pretty likely that this is the problem. I'll mark this as fixed for now. Thanks Lloyd for the troubleshooting assistance!
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Grafton, WI