High Speed
Williams, 1986Just picked up a working high speed but she has some hacks... First one here... Anyone got a photo that they could help me figure this out... She works but why the blue wire unhooked (where should other end go... )
What gage wire should I replace the one with alligator clips?
Thanks dan
Get rid of the alligator clip wire for certain, that's trouble and has no business being attached to mains voltage. The black coming into the box from the wall cord should go to the fuse holder, and it looks like it does. Get rid of the short blue wire and replace it with black of the same gauge as the line cord, might be 14 or 16AWG, but don't quote me on that. Someone else might chime in. The replacement wire should go from where the existing blue wire is attached to the fuse holder over to the terminal of the line filter opposite the terminal of where the white wire is attached (where the alligator clip is attached in the pic) Hope that makes some sense.
Thanks!!! That helps too!!!
Just ordered XPIN displays... My first order from them... Kind of excited... Going to fix this first hack tonight then I will post the next hack on power supply... Hopefully I an able to just repin... Hopefully a simple issue....
Does it mean that fuse blew and they bypassed? If I just alligator clip blue wire back on then game shouldn't work if it blown.. Right?
Buy a replacement fuse holder. You can buy the panel mounted fuse holders at Radio shack or Fry's for under $5.
The fuse holder is toast, they just bypassed it with the jumper. Radio shack or digi key will have something to replace the original one. That way it wont look like a hack.
well I patched her up before I find a the correct fuse holder... Played around with a few LED in backglass... Moved her in the house before this big freeze starts tomorrow...
when the pin is plugged in (and off) I hear the slightest buzz/hum... I have an atlantis and swords of fury next to her and I don't get that ever so slight noise... Is this normal? I usually don't bring a game inside till I've tore her down and prettied her up but I had to b/c of weather... I'm leaving her unplugged... Any input would be appreciated... Thanks dan
Hum or buzz sound with the switch in the off position is NOT NORMAL, something is not wired correctly! How about a pic of your on/off switch.
Quoted from danczaz:when the pin is plugged in (and off) I hear the slightest buzz/hum
First thing to determine is where the hum is coming from, and if your power switch is working. Listen for the hum. If it's the speakers, then for certain the power switch is having no effect. Lift the playfield and listen at the transformer and the line filter and see if it is either of those that is humming. Use a DMM to check for AC power at the transformer with the switch in the off and on position, verifies if your switch is working.
Quoted from zaza:Great picture in post#16 !
I know, the next picture shows the fuse+holder safely taped in, but still..
If I was a buyer of this machine, I would appreciate to know that it is not entirely original under the hood.
Easy, Danczaz already said this was temporary until he obtains the correct fuseholder. However, the fuse tabs so close to the chassis is a bit scary. There was plenty of clearance available to position that tab away from the housing. Temporary or permanent, still should be safe about line voltage.
yes this is just temporary until I find a fuse holder... I actually taped her up before I turned her on... I did not have much wire to work with so that's why it is tucked in that corner... It is still temporarily better than the whole assembly laying open inside of can with alligator clips sticking out...
I'll take a closer look tonight where that ever so soft hum/noise is coming from...
Quoted from johnwartjr:The P1 and P2 displays may be a CPU problem. I notice the same segments are out on P1 and P2.
I hope you are wrong!!!! So when I purchase the machine the P4 numeric display was completely out.. The P3 numeric display worked but kind of scrambled like its on its way out.. The P1 and P2 alpha numerical displays had segments out and looked to have a good amount of burn in..
The pin came with a newly purchase master display board and numeric display for P4. I put in the new display in P4 and the new master display board... Same issues with P1 - P3 and P4 was crystal clear like you would hope for a new display... I swapped P3 and P4 and still had an issue with the P4 that had been in P3...
I wiggled and unplugged and re plugged all the connectors but still no luck with P1 and P2... Also had a segment out on credit display... With the burn in on the existing displays I gambled that they were display issues and just bought the XPIN replacement... Figured it would be easier than hunted down the two alpha numerical displays, numeric display and credit display...
I hope I'm right... we'll find out when they get here.
You need to pull off that red cover off the switch then take a pic. With it unplugged from the wall first!!
Very carefully test with a voltmeter set on AC volts 200 scale the black wire on the switch to the wire braid on the cabinet. The cord plugged in and switch off. One of the black wires on the switch should be 120 volts and the other black wire should be 0 volts. With the switch in the on position both black wires should be 120 volts. P/S Be careful !!! 
That is your problem!!! That is not factory. Where does this connect to? For safety this needs to be removed completely and what ever it was doing needs to be fixed right.
Isolation transformer required in Canada back in the day:
https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/fQbB_L0ieg0
Hmmm... From looks of it I can get a couple green backs off her on eBay... So that went from WTF to $$$
I'll take it...
Quoted from wayout440:I see them sell for about $25 to $50. You shouldn't have any problem getting something for it. Tons of uses for them.
Good to know!
Quoted from Slim64:If you decide to sell the numeric displays (p3/p4) let me know. I need one for my High Speed.
I'm going to keep the brand new one as spare for a future game... The previous owner paid like $60 for it (new glass)... The other one works and no segments out but it has some miles on it and is headed towards end of its life... Let me put in the new XPINs and as long as it works fine (no CPU issue) then you can have it for $10 if you want it (basically cost of shipping)
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Hampshire, IL
Toronto, ON
