Thanks guys, I ordered a bunch of stuff from Digikey and made sure to include those fuses. I used the solderlug version but real easy to install except the part of removing solder from the rectifiers spade connectors, that was a pain. Vid1900 has a excellent write up here ->
Quoted from vid1900:Oftentimes it is good to look at a schematic to see, in theory, what a mod is going to do.
Here we are going to interrupt two circuits:
The 13.5v Lamp Rectifier
and
The 25.5v Solenoid Rectifier.
But while your at it, replace all the lamp matrix transistors on one side. Here is a list of digikey part numbers, I also order capacitors to replace all the aluminum caps on mpu and power board. (the lights were nice and bright afterwards)
FQP17P06 - Mosfet Q51-Q66 Lamp x8 (you can remove those hot resistors after installing these, have to jump them though)
F1497 Fuse Block 24v/12v x2
1N4763 PB-ZR2/4 Zener 91V x2 (this is for the power board to reduce your score voltage from 100 to 91V)
39KZCT PB-R1/4 39K Ohm x2 (Flame proof; again for power board and the score display area)
EB1094 Rosin Braid (you'll need a bunch of desoldering braid if you don't have a vac unit..)
I used a 7 amp sb fuse since I needed some for newer williams games that call out 7.5Amps, the rest of my digikey order was IC's, IC sockets and a lot of capacitors.
The board has excellent potential, I removed battery holder and it's clean.
You do board repairs? I shot gunned a few components and realize at this point without test equipment I'm wasting my time and not moving forward at all. I think the nvram is a great idea and looks not much more then a 2.2F x 5.5V supercap (digikey# 399-10814-ND). Let me know.
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