No voltage there still? ...if so it will never work. Find the coil voltage wire and trace it back to it's origin, this will usually be daisy chained from another coil elsewhere, possibly the other left sling.

Once you have voltage at the coil, you can check to see if the coil fires by grounding the tab opposite of the power tab.

There are further steps after that, reading here may help:
"A Coil doesn't Work, What To Do"
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html

First, check the manual for what fuse controls that coil. If one of the switches got stuck closed, it hopefully blew the fuse only. Check the fuse with a DMM. Replace if bad. BUT....before turning game on, check to see if it fried the transistor as well. May have to replace one of those as well.

It's not a fuse, otherwise the other coils would be not functioning.

Check the transistors on the driver board once you are confident it is wired correctly.

In a general driver circuit failure. A never firing solenoid is usually the predriver transistor (2n4401) being bad. If the logic gate for blanking or the main driver transistor is bad, they typically lock on.

Uhmm....according to the first post, the sling will not fire. If the switch got stuck closed, hopefully the fuse blew before burning out the transistor and possibly the coil.

(I cannot remember what other coils are on the same fuse, and OP did not mention any other coils)

"All went well but what I fired up the table after putting it back together the right slingshot is not working. It does not fire in coil test and I do not see voltage there."

I would assume that if the left sling was also not working he would have said that both slings are not working and not specifically pointed out just the right sling. Both get the same power and are covered by the same fuse. That's how I interpreted the statement, and that's why I suggested it would not be the fuse.

I did not think of that

The transistor testing in the doc link I sent is for when the board is out of the game. Disconnect the solenoid driver output connector from the game to be certain that isn't mucking your readings.

Nonetheless if the output transistor is suspect, replacing them is easy. I'd replace both the predriver and driver at the same time. You can always test these pre-drivers instead of just replacing them. But if the driver transistor has failed, the pre-driver was probably over-stressed too. Don't worry about replacing the U35 IC just yet.