This lovely High Speed came from the historic Starbase Arcade http://www.starbasearcade.com/ in San Rafael, CA. Unfortunately SBA's doors closed last summer. My friend knows the owner well, and lined me up with first shot at owning this historic High Speed when it came up. It was originally bought 2 weeks after it hit the market in 1986.

With a CPR playfield in my "shop", when I initially went to review it, I just took one look at the cabinet and backglass, and said, "Yes."

I picked it up last night. 'Silver Ball' in Novato is rebuilding the MPU and I'll get a chance to turn it on next week.
Hopefully, I'll have a few parts cleaned and polished before it gets powered on.

Once again, I'm very grateful to have good friends, good luck, and the good fortune to live in an area where nice machines pop every now and then...

This time around, I'm going to take off running without a plan. I'll take nightly notes on progress, including what hour I'm on, and I'll keep a set of open questions that I have in the following post, along with my shopping list, and total expenses beyond the base cost of the pin. I'm hoping to keep my upgrade shopping list to <$1700.

Enjoy the story and pics that follow...

TOC:

playfield swap begin: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-restoration/page/5#post-2132083

-mof

=================
OPEN QUESTIONS
=================

1) What is the best way to remove the lower board of the cabinet in order to sand and paint it?

2) Is there a way I can repair the chunk in the front of the cabinet without doing an entire re-paint of the entire cabinet? I would grade the cabinet a flawed 8 overall, and I'd like to try and touch it up, and learn from that process before giving up and doing a full re-do of all the cabinet art ground-up.

3) What are the correct screws to mount the lockdown bar receiver into the cabinet? I have an assortment in mine, so I don't have the "correct answer" for this one just yet.

4) How can I make the top edge of the lockdown bar receiver shiny and uniform? Can I do it with a chemical, or must I resort to buffing it out?

=====================
ANSWERED QUESTIONS
=====================

* How can I replace the ground wire to make it tight and shiny?
(Get new ground wire, an air compressor, staples, and a staple gun: DONE)

* What is special about the transformer brackets, and why did they not tumble to a perfect shine?
(possibly a special glue is caked on there?)

-----------------------
PARTS/GRADES
-----------------------
* Apron: 9: has a few scratches that are "character flaws", not worth a replacement.
* Boards: 6: A bit dark and hacky in spots. May need to do some surgery, we'll see.
* Body: 8-: will attempt to repair and keep as-is (experiment).
* Backglass: 9: near perfect, with one bizarre knick of paint missing.
* Inner Cab: 8: Lower will need a sand/cleaning. Upper Inner black sides will need touch up for sure.
* Legs/"Feet": 8: Outside are sharp, inside are rusty as usual. Will swap them with new if I need to with another Williams.
* Shooter and Assembly: 8: All good, tumbling it now.
* Side Rails: 9: Flat and clean
* Transformer: 9: Looks like new. Best one I have (appearance-wise)

---------------------------------------
PARTS: $1455: (Budget $1700)
---------------------------------------
Flipper Bats/Assemblies/etc: (x3): $115
Flipper Buttons: (wrong colors): $5
Playfield: $750
Plastics: $150
Pop caps: $25+
Pop assemblies: $30
Stationary targets (15): $100
Stoplight: $25
Ramp: $125
Rubber Set: $20
Cop car mods: $40
Flipper Coils: $20
New Glass: $25
Paint: $5
1/8" Wire Braid: $10
A few LEDs: $10

Shopping Questions:
1. Do I replace (ALL or 1 stationary targets?) (I am concerned these may look worn with a new PF in there. May need to purchase 15 targets for ($6.50 each) ~$100... http://www.pbresource.com/pfswitch.htm#wmssu -- I guess I'll go new, and sell the old set... ?
2. Am I going LEDs? (That's $100+)
3. Do replace displays or learn to repair the old plasmas?

Playfield Swap Preparation

DONE (157 hours total)
* buy thicker ground braid wire
* get a drill bit for the pop bumper nails
* get a re-drill template
* drill bit stops
* ensure correct set of bits for the posts, etc.
* remove all items under playfield
* remove all items on top of playfield
* install molex connectors for all major soldered components under the PF

TASKS
* install protectors for plastics
* re-grain metal orbit parts

Completed (hours 1-80)
Hour 1: Clean and Wax the cabinet
Hours 2-3: Clean up Legs with coke and tinfoil
Hour 4: Install legs and mount head
Hours 5-6: Troll cabinet for parts, and clean it out
Hour 7: Clean apron, install cabinet hinge-block
Hour 8: Tumble shooter assembly
Hour 9: Tumble Transformer bracket
Hour 10: Clean cabinet floor
Hour 11: Clean lockdown bar receiver
Hour 12: Clean coin door area
Hour 13: Adjust and assemble shooter
Hours 14-15: Assemble lockdown bar receiver, clean coin door switch, clean and install power switch
Hour 16: Clean under transformer board
Hours 17-19: Clean backbox and lamp board, tumble door brackets
Hour 20: Clean + Polish speaker panel trim
Hours 21-22: Clean coin door by hand (didn't remove parts yet)
Hours 23-25: Paint pen on cabinet, coin door, and backbox to clean up the look
Hour 26: cleaned and added caps to test switches in coin door
Hour 27: Installed black flippers as a trial
Hour 28: Fixed GI cable in backbox
Hour 29: Cleaned up stoplight
Hour 30: Replaced flipper switches with new parts
Hour 31: tumbled front end parts
Hours 32-37: Three flipper assemblies re-built
Hours 38-41: Rebuilt 3 pops
Hours 42-44: rebuilt lower 6 stationary targets with new parts, replaced skirts from white to blue
Hours 45-47: removed and cleaned ramp, and replaced it. Drilled better EOS holes.
Hours 48-50: Drilled out a broken screw, added blue lamps under PF. Tightened posts (missing nuts of course)
Hour 51: Switch adjustments
Hours 52-53: Coil test and fuse test
Hours 54-55: Installed new left red-yellow-green targets
Hour 56: Installed new blue Cliffy post sleeves
Hours 57-59: Tumbled 6 brackets. Aligned Lockdown Receiver. Removed Stoplight. Replaced hacked post.
Hours 60-61: Cleaned/polished/tumbled and reassembled all 6 solenoid assemblies with vertical brackets
Hour 62: Painted stoplight yellow
Hour 63-65: Re-do Spinners
Hour 66: Remove bells from flipper return frames, and install new set
Hour 67: Install new plastics, and verify I have the supporting hardware
Hours 68-69: Left Side Shop: Polished posts, screw heads, cleaned plastics, new rubbers, installed new nylon nuts and acorns
Hour 70: Packaged up and shipped out old ramp
Hours 71-72: Right Side Shop: Polished posts, screw heads, cleaned plastics, new rubbers, installed new nylon nuts and acorns
Hours 73-75: Removed backboard to playfield, dremeled new hole, bondo, sanded, painted, and mounted stoplight.
Hour 76: Attached and aligned stoplight
Hours 77-79: Installed new ramp, adjusted ramp switches. Installed another 3-prong socket, this time for: Q47 for the switch matrix. IJ8-7 was out.
Hour 80: installed two new fresh diodes on the L and R flipper switches, to see if the switch matrix issue goes away.

Playfield Swap (hours 1-77)
Hour 1: Remove Playfield
Hours 2-4: Molex and remove all solenoid components (14)
Hours 5-7: Prep new PF with Varathane
Hour 8: Clean out cabinet again
Hour 9: Molex pop bumpers
Hour 10: Remove apron and polish handles
Hours 11-12: Unscrew 12 switches, and tape down all the screws
Hours 13-15: Handle all the pass-through wires, and wires that solder into the GI braid
Hours 16-17: Add GI braid to new PF
Hour 18: Remove GI bulbs from old PF and tumble if necessary
Hours: 19-21: Install GI sockets
Hour 22: Hammer in 25 T-nuts
Hours 23-24: Remove old pops and pop nails, and install pop nails
Hour 25: Install inlane/outlane switches
Hours 26-27: Shotgun clean wiring harness
Hours 28-29: Install wire guides
Hours 30-60: Reinstall wiring harness and components
Hours 61-62: Uninstall and install wood rails
Hours 63-73: Uninstall and install topside
Hours 74-75: Run system tests and resolve wiring issues
Hours 76-77: Add fun lamps, and re-align 2 components that need it
-mof

Hour1: Clean and Wax the cabinet

Here's the cabinet after 1 hour of cleaning and waxing.
I am really pleased with the cabinet -- I don't feel compelled to send this out for a cab re-do.
Tomorrow I'll take a closer look at the playfield.
Tonight we tumble the feet and leg bolts.

Enjoy the pics!
-mof

Love the Rav4 for moving pins...
201404-HS-thank-you-rav4.jpg

The Right Side is Right!
201404-HS-rt-side3.jpg201404-HS-rt-side2.jpg201404-HS-rt-side.jpg

The left side is nice too!
201404-HS-left-side.jpg

Rear side has some staples on there -- four. I wonder what they were for?
201404-HS-back-side.jpg

Coin Door deserves a repaint for sure...
201404-HS-coin-door2.jpg

Top side and a sneak peak at the well-played playfield =)
201404-HS-top-side2.jpg

Back of the Head is shiny too!
201404-HS-nice-back-shine.jpg

I agree. My initial thoughts are to keep this original paint job... I'd say the cabinet is a 7+ or 8-. It has some scuffs, and a chunk missing in the front, however outside of the blemishes, it's smooth to the touch, appears to have no fade, holds a good gloss, and the wood/paint looks healthy.

Sometimes, I want to grade something it's high and low score. Often times, something is really nice, but then there are a few character flaws... I'd call this a quality 8 with blemishes at a 6... So a weak 8. =)

Eventually, I may take a stab at touching up some of the black by hand...

Is it possible to repair a front-side chunk, and do some minor touch ups in the black without a full body re-do?

I think I'd like to give it a shot eventually...

-mof

Slow and steady wins the race.

The tumbler makes me feel like I just bought 8 brand spankin' new leg bolts. The Leg levelers are a little rough, but much better than before. I have new ones, but I see no need to install them until I have a machine ready for a Best in Show contest... I'm years away from that.

I'd like to make the legs nice before reassembling. I have Evapo Rust coming on Monday.

-mof
Before...
201404-HS-rusty-cruds.jpg
Shiny!
201404-HS-tumble-bolts.jpg

Flitz polish. Using Walnut Media right now (got it from Petco). I've only tried Walnut media so far. Just started tumbling last month, so I can only report that I think the Flitz "may" do better than the Noxon I tried.
-mof

Thanks! However, I reckon it's going to be a Slow Speed project... since I have two open projects right now...

Embryon
High Speed

-mof

Hours 2 and 3...
Just tried my first coke + foil experiment. Followed it up with Noxon (which didn't do much)
You will call me crazy.
This is the first pin, where I'm, cleaning/waxing body/legs/"feet" before I...
EVEN raise the head and review the PF + parts...
Yep. Practicing planning + patience... whew... tough...
-mof

PS: Just heard from Bob, that the MPU is ready for p/u. Should see it by Friday night...

Before(left) + After(right)
201404-HS-cokeandfoil.jpg

2 hours later, we have 4 sexier legs. Yes, I'll buy new next time (or this time), but I *had* to try it myself to appreciate buying them new.
-mof

4 legs
201404-HS-4-sexier-legs.jpg

Installing the Pinball Life Cabinet Protectors just for good measure. I realize it's a little too late on this cabinet, but they are going on...
201404-HS-pinball-life.jpg

Yes, I plan to polish the entire machine bolt by bolt, screw by screw.
Head bolts too?
Yep...
-mof

201404-HS-headbolts-polished-too.jpg

Hour 4...
But can she stand on her own four feet after all that coke, foil, and polish?
yep...

Supper, then the head goes up...

-mof
201404-HS-first-steps-in-new-home.jpg

And finally... Here's the playfield and some close ups.
I am trying to figure out what parts I'll need to replace.
If you have any suggestions from experience or the photos, feel free to chime in.
-mof

Here is a good look at a playfield that gave 27 years of service...
201404-HS-old-PF.jpg

Backglass is near perfect
201404-HS-BG-9.jpg

1 good cap
201404-HS-2-of-3-caps-busted.jpg

Reviewing the sets of standups... guess I need one red.
201404-HS-3-standup-red-good.jpg201404-HS-3-red-good.jpg201404-HS-3-more-good.jpg201404-HS-3-good.jpg201404-HS-need-1-red.jpg

Spinners need total re-do
201404-HS-redo-all-spinners.jpg
201404-HS-spinner3.jpg

Strange entrance to the ramps... mylar over the ramp?
201404-HS-bizarre-entrance.jpg

Check on most of that...

I've got:
* CPR PF
* CPR plastics
* bats + rubbers
* spinner decals on order
* rubber set on order
* elbow grease on order
PLUS of course...
* new metal/plastic pop bumper parts...
* new flipper button switches
* flipper rebuild kits + brackets
-

NEED TO GET
1. Where should I get the colored targets for HS from?
2. I see the "repro" caps at BAA, but are they opaque like the NOS ones? I'd sure rather get NOS
-mof
3. clear ramp from freeplay!!!

Hours 5,6:
Now it's time to lift the PF and test our angling skills.
It's time to play that fun game, "trolling for history!"
-mof

The trolling begins...
201404-HS-trolling-for-parts.jpg

I caught something !!!
201404-HS-I-caught-something.jpg

All the treasure...
201404-HS-all-the-bounty.jpg

A few parts missing...
201404-HS-need-bob.jpg
201404-HS-need-plastic-button.jpg

All cleaned out... my nose is full of black crap... Will wear a mask next time. =(
201414-HS-cleanedout.jpg

Nice.
201404-HS-warranty-void-if-removed-390.jpg

Hour 7:
Time to examine the apron. Is it a keeper?
-mof

What do you think?
201404-HS-apron3.jpg201404-HS-apron2.jpg201404-HS-apron1.jpg

A little citrus cleaner on that middle splotch, using a credit card to slowly remove it layer by layer...
A little wax...

Keeper!
201404-HS-apron-fix3.jpg201404-HS-apron-fix1.jpg201404-HS-apron-fox2.jpg

pm sent!

Hour 7 continued...
Have you ever noticed how System 11's don't have that block of wood that stops the playfield from pivoting past a certain point?

Without it, the playfield snaps right into the glass - rather shocking that they shipped this way...

Solved!
-mof

Gap to close:
201404-HS-PF-hinge-mod1.jpg

Install a little 1" x 2" block of wood. (painted mine white)
201404-HS-pf-hinge-mod5.jpg

Now check out my clearance, and safety!
201404-HS-pf-hinge-mod3.jpg201404-HS-pf-hinge-mod2.jpg

Hour8...
Finally got the shooter assembly out. Had to Dremel it to just get it out...
Parts are in the Tumbler...
-mof

Here's a great tool to open the e-clip...
201404-HS-eclip-removal2.jpg
201404-HS-e-clip-tool.jpg

Here's my Dremeled Shooter...
201404-HS-shooter-fixed.jpg

Hour 9:
I decided to dismantle the transformer, and clean it up a little... I've never tinkered with one before.
Then I decided to try scrubbing bubbles on the board that supports the transformer. a LOT of gunk came off. I did 3 applications, then gave it a very light waxing. It looks nice, but I know a sanding will be better eventually.

This is one *really* sexy transformer. It almost looks new to me.
201404-HS-transformer1.jpg
201404-HS-transformer-sexy-time.jpg

These parts went in the tumbler...
201404-HS-transformer2.jpg

Here's the board after the cleaning...
201404-HS-scrubbing-bubbles.jpg

There are still speckles of original spray left in the grain...
201404-HS-still-some-speckles.jpg

What's up with the brackets? They didn't polish up much... Odd...
201404-HS-transformer-brackets.jpg

Transformer installed, is it handsome?
201404-HS-handsome!.jpg

Hour 11:
Here's a strange one... no rust on the lockdown bar receiver! Just crud, and of course with 30 minutes of elbow grease and mean green, the crud is gone... Hmm... It seems a little neurotic to now go polish it to "perfection" with a wheel, when it's not even scratched...

I wonder what my options are for the top edge of the lockdown bar receiver?

I'll take a pic tonight of how imperfect it looks now that it's perfectly clean...

-mof
201404-HS-lockdown-bar-receiver-elbow-grease.jpg

Really nice. I hope to jump in on the woodworking side soon... It's all fun stuff.
-mof

Ty!
My respect for people who do full restores is going up exponentially by the night...

-mof

Hour 12:
Bought some different cleaners tonight to try on the coin door wood.
Left side got the carpet cleaner. Right side got Bleche Wite.
The right side bubbled a little bit, and I'm pretty sure more gunk came up on the left side.
Perhaps I'll try the test again in the rear lower cab wood area and see what happens.
Bottom line, is tons of gunk came up. It was suggested to grab a tool to edge better, and that made a huge difference.
Also, I learned that the black speckles on the center transformer board are not dirt. It's overspray from the original cabinet paint job! That's really good to know!
-mof

Before (coin door front cabinet area)
201404-HS-coinarea2.jpg201404-HS-coin-area1.jpg

After
201404-HS_coinarea-4.jpg201404-HS_coinarea-3.jpg

It's not DIRT !!! It's overspray =)
201404-HS-its-not-dirt.jpg

Gotta have the right tools for the job...
This little guy did great on the edges...
Can you see the E-Clips that turned up underneath all the crud?
-mof

Nice Tool !
That little pile about the size of a quarter is what I got out tonight after I was *sure* it was spotless last night. Now you can eat off it.
201404-HS-tool-works.jpg

Free E-Clips!
201404-HS-spot-the-3-clips.jpg

Hour13:
Shooter is back together and solid as hell. I think it's a lethal weapon. I might drop the spring down a few notches, to save on the ramp, we'll see...
-mof
201404-HS-shooter-ready2-179.jpg
201404-HS-shooter-ready-340.jpg

Hours 14-15:

* Master power switch re-installed with super shiny plate...
* Lockdown receiver reassembled. Feels awesome...
* Coin door switch super clean now...

The reward of hours 14-15 is seating the lockdown bar into the lockdown receiver and having it FEEL perfect. Wow... If you have any dirty lockdown bar receivers/lockdown bars -- give yourself a little gift and take 2 hours and clean the hell out of them and remount them, you'll be GLAD you did!

-mof

Shiny !!!
201404-HS-super-shiny-746.jpg

Red plastic cleaned up good...
201404-HS-power-ready-280.jpg

Locked and loaded !
201404-HS-crisp-lockdown-recvr-803.jpg

Very clean!
201404-HS-hella-white-918.jpg

Here's the new view of the interior. Still lots to do, but it's looking rather respectable now. You can eat off the floor now...
201404-HS-Much-nicer-inside-cabinet.jpg

(And here's where we started on Sunday)
201404-HS-starting-place.jpg

Yep, I've been watching yours closely... Looking forward to seeing how things go.
-mof

Sounds awesome. I'll try 'em. Shipped !
-mof

I added a new section to post #2 in this thread called "Open Questions" -- I am trying to make this process as transparent and interactive as possible, especially since it's my first ever full restore.

thanks!
-mof

Right, that's why I took a good look at the apron up front, to determine if I needed a new one from you. I am pretty confident I'm good with this one for now. Thanks for the offer !
(I forgot to examine the shooter guide...)
-mof

I opened a new thread to learn more about dirty lockdown bar receiver options...
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/top-edge-of-lockdown-bar-receiver
-mof

I picked up the last CPR HS playfield available from the Planetary Pinball site a few months ago.
-mof

Quick shot of the backglass. Perfect, with one knick missing.
Keeper!
-mof

201404-HS-BG-excellent.jpg

Hour 16:
Trying out a tool to get under the transformer board.

Magnetic wand
Painter's Tape (of course)
dry Swiffer rag

Yep. It works...

201404-HS-invention.jpg
201404-HS-more-dirt.jpg

Hours 17-19:
Backbox: clean it out, clean up the front side of the lamp board, and polish the stainless steel trim that surrounds the speaker panel. It has to pop and look sharp. 91% cleaned it all up, it's a very clean board. Left the warning sticker in place. Backbox cleaned up fine. Ran the bulbs (44s) through the ultrasonic, and I'll replace 'em with 47's eventually, and possibly a couple LEDs if it makes sense.
-mof

All lamps out
201404-HS-BG-bulbs.jpg

Displays out
201404-HS-BG-left.jpg

Brackets off
201404-HS-BG-brackets-to-shine.jpg

All cleaned up!
201404-HS-BG-clean2.jpg201404-HS-BG-clean.jpg

yes.yes.
All in due time.
=)
-mof

Working the speaker trim was a very rewarding battle.

I removed the parts and used in this order:

1. mean green (rinse)
2. bleche white (rinse)
3. scotch brite
4. metal polish
5. wax

Each application removed more black stuff... It makes me wish I were a chemist and could explain what was happening. Bottom line is scotch brite (I used a softer "for wood finishing" pad) was the winner. It left the original grain in place, without adding scratches (that I could see) and cleaned in some of the grain.

Very happy with the outcome. Feel free to chime in, if you've got other tips on how to approach grained trim like this.

Trim is sketchy and dull
201404-HS-speaker.jpg201404-HS-speaker-trim-to-clean.jpg201404-HS-speaker-trim-needs-work.jpg

Trim at the end of the day... sharp, uniform, snappy, few flaws. Looks great.
201404-HS-trim-excellent.jpg

Hour 20: Put the Lamp Board back together and prepped the game to be flipped on...

Bob came over tonight, and taught me a bit of the history of this game. He's been the solo owner since 1986. He bought it 2 weeks after it was released. It has the original ramp, which was reinforced with fiberglass along the bottom outside edge. He mentioned that any replacement ramps should be equally well reinforced. I'm not sure how well we can accomplish that with clear ramps, unless the plastic is considerably thicker and can take more pain without the reinforcement.

It plays pretty well with the original playfield in there. Tonight I played for a few hours. Fun game.

-mof

backbox brackets are shiny now
201405-HS-more-shiny.jpg

BEFORE: backbox vacuumed, cleaned and polished...
201405-HS-workin-for-a-livin.jpg

AFTER: Glad I tumbled the head bolts after all. Shiny!
201405-HS-cleaner-backbox.jpg

backbox lamp board before
201404-HS-BG-right.jpg

backbox lamp board looking much better
201405-HS-nicer-lamp-board.jpg

Added a quick fun poll for choosing the flipper bat colors
-mof
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/blue-or-black-vote-now

Hope so!
-mof

Hours 21-22:
This morning I deployed the atom bomb of restoration tools:
1) Elbow Grease !
I cleaned my coin door inside and out for about two hours, and used the new plastic razor blades to get edges I never got clean before...
Can you tell which side of this photo was cleaned with a rag, 91% and a plastic razor?

I had already gone over the right edge with a rag, and a fingertip, and that didn't get the actual edge. The plastic razor blade made a huge difference. It worked so well, I had to double up the rag to avoid cutting through the rag.

-mof
201405-HS-which-side.jpg

Hours 23-25:
Once you've deployed elbow grease, 91% and a rag to your cabinet, you deserve to unveil the mightiest of weapons...

The oil-based black fine-tipped paint pen.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018N9B8U/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Best Thing. Ever. This thing rocks...

Can you tell which side of the Backbox got touched up first?
-mof

201405-HS-which-side-used-paint-pen-628.jpg

And now the glory that is the "restored with a paint pen" front end of the pin...

Before:
201405-HS-old-front.jpg

After:
201405-HS-front-view.jpg

More glamour shots...
201405-HS-coin-door-bottom-edge.jpg201405-HS-right-corner-mega-sexy.jpg201405-HS-right-side.jpg201405-HS-right-front.jpg201405-HS-left-side.jpg201405-HS-left-leg.jpg201405-HS-left-front.jpg

Still to do before I'll have a cabinet worthy of a playfield swap...
* flipper buttons, start buttons need a good cleaning
* replace flipper button switches
* remove and clean bottom speaker and grill
* rebuild all the flipper assemblies and install new coils
* rebuild all the pops

Hour 26:
Threw a red switch cap on and painted it black.
201405-HS-switches.jpg

Removed power switch, tightened it down correctly, and filled a loose screw hole with a few toothpicks.
201405-HS-tight-and-right.jpg

Attached the ground to the coin door.
201405-HS-coin-door-clean.jpg

Hour 27:

Ran a poll and asked Pinside whether to go blue or black flippers with yellow rubbers.

Black won.

Hot!
201405-HS-black-flippers-YESSS.jpg

Hour 28:
Got the GI fixed on the right side of the Backbox (burnt connector of course)
Installed #47's in every other bulb to just see what we get.
Left #44s for "High Speed" and the controlled lamps.
-mof
201405-HS-red-lamp-on.jpg201405-HS-lamp-on2.jpg

Camera.
-mof

Thanks man. I have chosen a life with lots of free time built in. I sleep 8-9 hours a night most nights, but like most pinball enthusiasts, I slip from my routine, and sleep 6-7 sometimes when I "just can't stop" working on something new and exciting. Stopping is tough most nights!

Still practicing the skills of:

1. Discipline
2. Delayed gratification

-mof

Great idea, I'll grab another one like that since I used the caps off the last one for several games...
-mof

Hour 29: repaired the stop light...
Red lamp wasn't working. re-soldering fixed things.
Old cover removed. New one put on.
Old bracket was held on with... twist-ties!
Drilled a few holes, and secured it with screws.
Waxed the old playfield and played with a friend for a few hours to clear the way for a full tear-down...
I think one more full night of play on this thing, and I can tear it down. It is a neat game for sure. Any day now, and we start my first PF swap evaaa...
-mof

Next up is getting all the gunk out of the 3 plastic buttons on the front end, and replacing the flipper switches.
-mof
201405-HS-flipper-buttons+start-478.jpg

Shiny and new...
-mof

201405-HS-clean-is-clean.jpg

Hour 30:
I cleaned 3 buttons and replaced flipper switches
I love how crisp the play is with brand new flipper button switches and super clean, zero-friction buttons...
-mof

201405-HS-new-flipper-switch.jpg

Hour 31:
Ran front end stainless steel through the tumbler for 24 hours.
I've never had the two playfield "brackets" that insert into the lockdown bar receiver be so darn shiny. What a treat...
The trough stainless steel parts are too big for my tumbler, so I had to clean them by hand with Noxon...
-mof

nothing glistens here...
201405-HS-dirty-front-end.jpg

bring on the shiny...
201405-HS-clean-front-end.jpg

Most certainly, no!
10-30 hours a week for 10-15 weeks?
Who knows...
=)
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Hours 32-37:
Flipper assemblies rebuilt.
New coils installed.
I'm going to enjoy the old playfield another week before I tear it apart. Why not have the flipper assemblies done?
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Old flipper assemblies (grody to the max!)
201405-HS-flipper-assembly-before.jpg

Corroded EOS switches...
201405-HS-bad-EOS2-714.jpg201405-HS-bad-EOS2-714.jpg201405-HS-bad-EOS3-945.jpg201405-HS-bad-EOS4-685.jpg

New flipper assemblies (with '92 springs in there) on the runway ready for take-off !
201405-HS-flipper-assembly-after.jpg

The results of installing the new flipper assemblies with new coils and fliptronics-era springs, are astounding. The ball is flying around and my scores just doubled. Previous high score was 2.2 mil, just hit 4.5mil...

I wasn't able to get either flipper to function for entering the high score, so I'll need to make some adjustments. I had thought I had everything just right the first time.

More odd behavior after the flipper upgrade: It doesn't give me 3-ball multi-ball when I escape, just 2-ball. I am slightly concerned. But overall, it's playing much much better.

I am concerned that the flipper assemblies I am using don't have a hole high enough up to keep the springs from touching the switches. This may or may not be causing a problem.

If you own an early 80's or system 11 Williams, and you haven't yet upgraded it to the newer flipper springs, you are missing out on 20% snappier game play. It's a MUST-upgrade.

Next up: rebuilding all the pops from the ground up.

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That's right last time I did this "after the fact" I drilled into the little tab that's connected to the arm, and left the plate alone.

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Some would ask why rebuild the pop assemblies on the old playfield?
Just 'cause...
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Here are the old pop bumpers and pop bumper parts...
201405-HS-old-parts.jpg201405-HS-old-pops.jpg

Old dirty skirty...
201405-HS-dirty-skirty.jpg

All back and dry from the ultrasonic...
201405-HS-ultrasonic-only.jpg

In the morning I'll upload another set of pics and show how I take shortcuts and avoid soldering vertically on the playfield to get the pops wired up. Makes for easy future changes.
Pops are cleaned up, new parts are installed, and the leaves and spoons are lined up better. Much more random play happening now.
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Some would ask, "Why rebuild the pop assemblies on the old playfield?"
Just 'cause...
I'm going to tinker with the old system until I'm done tinkering with it, then I'll swap it all out.
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Hours 38-41: Removing ramps, and rebuilding 3 pops.
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Here are the old pop bumpers and pop bumper parts...
201405-HS-old-parts.jpg
201405-HS-old-pops.jpg

Dirty Skirty...
201405-HS-dirty-skirty.jpg

All back and dry from the ultrasonic...
201405-HS-ultrasonic-only.jpg

Clean solenoid systems...
201405-HS-clean-systems.jpg

Here's an example of using washers to secure and connect the lamp socket wires under the playfield.
It makes it easier to make cosmetic changes to the pops later on, such as changing the skirt colors.
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I clip the ends on each lead since I don't need that much material
201405-HS-clipped-ends.jpg

Here's the view with the pops removed. With the bracket on there, I line up a short hex screw in a good safe spot.
201405-HS-wiring.jpg

Washers installed.
201405-HS-washers.jpg

Clean up the playfield, wax it, and install the system...
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201405-HS-pop-area.jpg
201405-HS-pops-installed.jpg

Thanks... yeah there is a lot of whackiness involved on this old PF... Surely I'll be leaning on other people's pics to get it all set up right...
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I already have this list built in the system11 thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/system-11-club/page/6
half way down the page...
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Thanks! I just ordered a set, so if I screw 'em up, I'll hit you up for plan B.
=)
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Air compressor arrived today!
I can go mad with stapling now!
Fun times!
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I picked the final HS playfield off the BAA site a few months ago...
Here's a snipet from the OP:
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'This lovely High Speed came from the historic Starbase Arcade http://www.starbasearcade.com/ in San Rafael, CA. Unfortunately SBA's doors closed last summer. My friend knows the owner well, and lined me up with first shot at owning this historic High Speed when it came up. With a CPR playfield in my "shop", I took one look at the cabinet and backglass, and said, "Yes."'

Air compressor set up and functioning properly.
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20140517_143005.jpg

Hours 42-44:

Installed blue stationary targets on the lower 6.
Re-installed the pops with blue skirts.
Replaced the new black flippers with blue flippers.
Installed blue frosted LEDs under the flipper return frames.

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201405-HS-blue1.jpg201405-HS-blue3.jpg201405-HS-blue2.jpg

Hours 45-47:

1) removed the ramp 100% and cleaned it up really good. Put it back.
2) Solved recent switch errors:
3) Drilled new bracket holes to ensure EOS spring doesn't touch switches.

Getting switch errors 36,37,38 on boot.
Checked manual, and switch matrix suggests check Q43
Getting bad readings on it. Removed it, checked my parts box, and F*** yeah, I had 1 in there from Radio Shack (meaning I bought TWO once)...
Dropped it in, and everything worked.
1 game later, and I'm down 2-3 switches already.
Right EOS, Left Inlane.
I'll post another thread to look for help diagnosing.

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The results are astonishing. This thing is playing like a beast now.
There's just something magical about being about 50 hours into a resto, that it starts playing like a champion...

It's now my GF's second-favorite machine behind WW (after playing HS just once, with a score of 1,200,000 -- almost beating the machine.) She's not a gamer or a pin-head, but she has great instinctive timing skills for pinball. She says she likes the Devo-like music, she feels like she's accomplishing something easily understandable with the red-yellow-green lights and making the ramp shot. It's always good feedback to learn from non-pin-heads why certain games hold interest and others don't, especially when the reasons are not ones I'd ever think of.

Adding more blue this weekend... heading over to Cliffy's to try some blue post rubbers out. Will get some blue flipper buttons next week.

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Super-sexy, I may be your first customer on it.
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Hours 48-50:
Added a blue LED under the saucer. And one blue bulb under the left ramp to balance the blue. This really ties the two blue LEDs under the flipper return guides. Very happy about it.
Tightened down 4+ posts that have been flopping around. Were nuts missing under the PF? Um, yeah...
Added a few missing rubbers from the new set (doh!)
Replaced remaining GI bulbs
Drilled out a broken screw (need to hit hardware store to replace if possible)
The plan is -- make sure every bolt and nut and screw is in place before I do a swap. Why?

The last thing I want to have happen during my first ever PF swap is have anything small and petty like missing screws/nuts/bolts get in the way...

I want a totally solid game before I start. I still have bizarre intermittent switch issues to solve.

I realize I just hit the magical 50 hour mark where the game is playing amazingly well. 50 hours in 4 weeks. ~12 hours a week.

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A few pics...
4 blue LEDs and the rest are 44s
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201405-HS-cab2.jpg201405-HS-cab1.png201405-HS-cab3.jpg

Hour 51:
Adjusted three switches until the switch errors went away in:
1. shooter
2. right inlane
3. right EOS
Success!
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Great news. I stopped by Cliffy's and picked up 6 of the lighter blue post sleeves. They really work.
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(power off, not installed, but checking for color match and balance)
201405-HS-blue-cliffys-not-installed.jpg

Hours 52-53:
Fuse test: fail->pass (had one minor adjustment to make, but nothing scary was found in there, as expected.)
Coil test: fail!->pass (had one dead flasher, causing both to not work)
Coil test: re-attached the kicker solenoid. =)

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Sometimes these guys work in pairs. Yep.
Found a dead one under the right upper green plastics.
All good, thanks!
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Going to experiment with the metal bracket removed on the upper right ramp exit -- want to see how to get the ball to return to the playfield at full speed and feed the upper flipper without going "DONK" on the playfield.

Trying in 4-player mode and just seeing what seems to stop the flow of the ball -- it's apparently the spinner...

There's barely any difference having the metal bracket there. I'm wondering if Mark's clear ramps look great without that piece even being there.

-mof