Elkhart, IN
were did you get the clear ramp from....I gotta have one ....really
(Topic ID: 88747)
Linked Games
High Speed
Williams, 1986
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Quoted from Paulb:were did you get the clear ramp from....I gotta have one ....really
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-clear-ramp
-mof
Quoted from Paulb:were did you get the clear ramp from....I gotta have one ....really
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-clear-ramp
Best inspector name ever?
I always ask myself, if I were the parents with THAT last name, I'd only have to steer clear of just a few first names to not ruin this child's soul... you know like... if the last name is: "Munch", then the first name *can't* be Richard or Rod... etc... Well... this is either a fine joke, or... some confused parents.
Interesting.... In the photo above, the black wires around the pop bumpers appears to be added. Am I correct to assume that those wires are providing power to the pop bumper lights? Here's a photo of the bottom of mine in that area. A little hard to make out, but the power for the pop bumper lights was provided by routed, stapled braid.
IMG_0331.JPGQuoted from Freeplay40:Interesting.... In the photo above, the black wires around the pop bumpers appears to be added. Am I correct to assume that those wires are providing power to the pop bumper lights? Here's a photo of the bottom of mine in that area. A little hard to make out, but the power for the pop bumper lights was provided by routed, stapled braid.
Good eye.
Yes, part of my 80-hour "prep" for the playfield swap was rebuild the pop assemblies and install new lamp sockets. I like using washers to connect them to GB so that I can remove them easily if needed, to say -- change the skirt color.
-mof
Hours: 5-7
* visit hardware store for varathane and drill bits
* lay down varathane on the underside of the PF
Last chance to clean up the new CPR PF.
The CPR coat of clear varnish on the underside of the playfield was very splotchy, and I was thinking I'd like mine to have a complete coat to make it easier to keep it clean in the future.
I bought a half pint of satin fast-drying varathane, and tried brushing it on one half to see what I like better. I think it's a definite improvement. I'm taking it slow to get an even coat on there.
Now to complete the other half...
-mof
Hours: 11-12
Took tons of pictures and a movie to document harness before removal:
* Removed all hex screws into three jars:
1. #6 - 1/2: relays, standups
2. #6 - 3/8: lamp sockets
3. #6 - (the long ones for the "white ceramic resistor + extra" components that have 1/2" clearance over the playfield
4. (note, I have all the philips screws taped into each set of switches)
Before I can remove the harness I have to manage two things:
1a. Mark every soldered lamp socket with tape
1b. Take clear photos of each soldered lamp socket
1c. *de-solder each lamp socket that comes off the harness
2a. Mark every wire that feeds through to front side (flashers)
2b. Take clear photos of wires that feed through
2c. *de-solder the through-playfield components (such as flashers) (*next step)
I count about 45 blue tapes now, (16+ were switches), so that leaves roughly 29 areas that must be de-soldered.
-mof
Notes on 10 pass-through wiring components:
1. There are 6 flashers with pass through wiring. I chose to de-solder them, so that I can tumble the sockets. Next time through, I'll just cut the wires.
2. There are two pass-through components (trough solenoid, and kick back solenoid) -- I chose to molex them since they are solenoids.
3. There are two ball switches. I cut those, and will molex just the rear side during the re-build.
-mof
Quoted from Freeplay40:Good progress!
Thanks, coach!
Now, onto creating 11 GI braids...
-mof
Hours 16-17:
GI braids complete...
Now, to de-solder old lamp sockets and tumble them overnight.
-mof
Mr. F. Hard has inspected this new PF already, and gives it a thumbs up!
201412-HS-F-Hard-Inspected-again.jpg201412-HS-GI-braid1.jpg201412-HS-GI-braid2.jpg
Quoted from lb1:If I were to guess, could this be polishing every single lamp socket and more generally piece of playfield hardware? Perhaps you also polished the light bulbs.
Well, some of that has already happened.
That quantity of solder shrapnel represents solder-sucking 52 bulb contact points and a few hex screws... Yikes...
-mof
It's great feeling to finally drill into your precious new CPR PF.
Here's my new drill bit, with my electrical tape stop.
When I install it into my drill, it's impossible for the tape to slip -- it has nowhere to go.
-mof
201412-HS-drill-bit-stop-776.jpg201412-HS-drill-bit-stop2.jpg201412-HS-first-hole.jpg
Hours: 19-21
Install GI sockets.
Installing the GI lighting is a blast. It's fun to try and line up each lamp socket just right, and blast it with a staple.
I am noticing that the sockets LEAN one way or the other, so I'll need to learn how to control that better in the next PF swap.
I was careful not to pre-staple TOO many spots in fear I wouldn't be able to rotate the sockets in place. What I found is that wherever I had two staples within roughly 1" of each other, then they are too close. I like doing things in stages, so I like that I did the braids first, and the bulbs second. There's just a little compromise needed in the number of staples.
-mof
201412-HS-lamps-15-done1.jpg201412-HS-lamps-15-done2.jpg201412-HS-lamps-15-done3.jpg
Hours 23-24:
Remove old pops and pop nails, and install pop nails.
Now's the time to send your prayers.
Drilling down into the clear coat of my precious CPR PF to make room for the heads of the pop nails. I have no idea why CPR doesn't do this at the factory... If I got *this* far and then ruined my PF, I'd go nuts.
pray.
for.
me.
First attempt is close, needs a hair more room.
-mof
Hours 26-27:
Shotgun clean wiring harness.
I took the wiring harness to the driveway, and sprayed it down with Mean Green, let it work for a minute, then sprayed it down good 2x.
Flipped it over, reversed it, and repeated.
I am now supervising it in the convection oven at 250'F for about 30 minutes...
When done, I'll spread it out on the table, and hand polish/dry every component with IPA 91%.
Then I can try submerging various sections in the small ultrasonic cleaner (lid off) and see what happens.
It feels non-grody-to-the-max to the touch. Still going to give it at least an hour of touch ups and switch cleaning...
-mof
PS: Now I'm hungry for cookies !
201412-HS-baking-cookies1.jpg201412-HS-baking-cookies2.jpg
Quoted from mof:I took the wiring harness to the driveway, and sprayed it down with Mean Green, let it work for a minute, then sprayed it down good 2x.
If I washed a harness down in my driveway today, it would freeze!
Quoted from Freeplay40:If I washed a harness down in my driveway today, it would freeze!
We are clocked in at 47' F out here, very chilly in the shade. The 40-60mph gusts from yesterday are over, so it's a great day to spray and pray.
-mof
Toronto, ON
Quoted from mof:We are clocked in at 47' F out here, very chilly in the shade. The 40-60mph gusts from yesterday are over, so it's a great day to spray and pray.
-mof
Cry me a frozen river 
I think it's safe to say on "day 7", hour 30, the wiring harness goes back in.
I can't wait to wake up tomorrow!
I seem to be clocking in 5 work-hours a day, (3+ hours are exploration, reviewing pics, researching online, finding tools, errands to the hardware store, etc. I'm just logging actual work hours for future reference.)
-mof
Hours 30-32:
Re-attach wiring harness (top 1/5th).
Ok I found the wiring harness, and scratched my head.
And scratched my head some more...
Apparently during the cleaning, I had moved the wires around enough, that I had no idea how to begin re-assembly.
So I took a systematic approach.
I lifted the harness by the 4 molex connectors to establish the top, and identified all its general areas: (GI, pops, switches, etc.) In some areas, there are 3 different bundles of wire running together, where there's an "ideal" bundle on top, middle, and bottom...
I had to start with a few pictures taken of the wiring harness before its removal from the top of the PF...
I was able to get started. I learned that next time, I'll take much better photos of the actual shape and LAYERS of the harness before removing it. Lesson learned.
About 3 hours in, I was able to get about 8 components done. I reckon there are 60-70 to do, I'll be sure and let you know when it's over -- the component re-connect count for High Speed.
There are no shortcuts in pinball restoration. This will certainly take time. I'm starting with the easy stuff like the resistor blocks, the lamp socket arrays, and lamp sockets. All of these do not require "precision" installation. I can usually utilize one of the two or more dimples given for free to begin drilling. Then install the first screw and "SEE" where the second hole actually wants to go, make sure it looks even and straight, and then create my own dimple with a tiny philips screw driver.
Another way I was able to segregate and remove the mess of the playfield was to put each section in a ziplock and tape it off. As I install each section, I remove the ziplock bag. This really made it easy to move areas around, and flip flop the layers... I expect to use the ziplock bag method next time around to avoid tangles.
Slow and steady rebuilds the playfield.
-mof
Hours 33-34:
Installed 8 more components, cleaned switches.
Slowly, but surely, the ziplocs break away and reveal another mini-puzzle to install.
To celebrate the cleaning of the switches, I have procured a crisp, uncirculated, $100 bill.
Soon, I'll be folding and cleaning switches with it.
I always wondered to myself in quiet, "But Vid, why a $100???"
Now that I'm doing it, I get it...
-mof
Quoted from vid1900:Just pull a crisp $100 bill through the held together contacts, until the bill pulls through cleanly. The first pull will be very black with carbon.
I've now cleaned all three spinners. They were *already* clean from the 80-hour shop job.
But now I get it. It's not truly clean, until you use an uncircuclated crisp $100 bill, and verify that you aren't ADDING crap onto the switches using a DIRTY OLD $1 you cheap bastard... (like I have floating in all of my coin boxes for quick cleanings.)
You can barely see the "Streaks" but this $100 has cleaned 4+ switches now. Clean Clean Clean.
My record on a spinner is about 80 rotations. Hopefully all three of these AVERAGE 80.
-mof
In the photo above where the leaf switch for the spinner goes right over some GI braids, make sure the leaf cannot contact the braids. I do recall when I did mine that I put some shrink tube on those braids.
Quoted from Freeplay40:In the photo above where the leaf switch for the spinner goes right over some GI braids, make sure the leaf cannot contact the braids. I do recall when I did mine that I put some shrink tube on those braids.
Agreed. Will do. I think I need wider shrink tubing.
-mof
At least all the time I invested on molexing all the hardware will pay dividends here in the home stretch when each of the 12 hardware piece screws into place in 3 minutes each. Looking forward to that phase.
I'll set my goal now of Sunday night -- 'Bottom side is 99% done'...
Definitely what I'd call, "Over the hump." And with that, I'd call xmas break aka a "restorer's vacation" a true success.
I've done several topsides before including this High Speed (once already) so it while be hopefully coasting downhill by Monday night. We'll see. Surely there's a little Murphy's Law lurking somewhere, haha.
-mof
Hour: 37
Installed two rollover stars.
As freeplay40 has mentioned in his threads, it is critical that the rollover stars can lay flat so that orbit shots don't turn into airballs.
If you clean out the "wheel spoke" clear and ensure smooth up/down motion, you are not done.
Get 3-4 extra rollover stars for insurance before you begin this step.
In order to compensate for all the clear that has congregated on the red rollover star plastic, you have to "cut away" the same amount of material on the white star on each end of each "spoke"
I used a dremel and an exacto knife and after 1 attempts for the left side, and 3 attempts for the right side, I finally got them where I wanted 'em. Not perfect, but good enough to try the game out. I have 10 more bullets to experiement with... I decided NOT to pry open the red plastic parts to allow me to remove the star, because IF I were to break off a tab, I would be heartbroken.
-mof
original stars
201501-HS-two-of-many-virgin-stars.jpg
after dremel
201501-HS-post-dremel.jpg
after exacto knife
201501-HS-after-exacto.jpg
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