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(Topic ID: 81554)

High Speed restoration thread


By TheRingMaster

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 269 posts
  • 28 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by TheRingMaster
  • Topic is favorited by 25 Pinsiders

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There are 269 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 6.
#1 6 years ago

top.jpg

This is my second restoration project and since it was/is really fun to share the adventure last time (BOP restoration) I thought I should start a new thread. This time its High Speed. Im not posting this as a how to but rather a nice way of sharing the process.

Im going to start this restoration in a few months but there has been some posts about it allready in my BOP thread and its better to keep the two projects separated.

Here is what im gonna start with:

The important first epic pickup-picture:
pickup.jpg

A brief idea of the state the game is in:
HS.jpg

More will come later on but feel free to share ideas and ask questions!

Andy

Post edited by TheRingMaster: Restoration now in progress

#2 6 years ago

You planning a playfield swap?

#3 6 years ago

Just starting my HS playfield swap. I like to remove all the major components and install Moles plugs for them. Simplifies the transfer and makes maintenance late in life easier by being able to remove the components. Photo attached has all major components removed.

HS.JPG
#5 6 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

You planning a playfield swap?

Hehe.. maybe, depends on my economy =) Otherwise i might try some methods that ive been thinking about like printing on the wood or a vinyl overlay or something. I dont know anything about it yet, like how it would react to the clear coat etc but time will tell what I end up doing.

#6 6 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Just starting my HS playfield swap....

Looks like an old diesel car compared to newer games =) It will be fun to dig into it!
Good idea with the molexes, might consider that too!

#7 6 years ago

Here's a question regarding displays, there are two displays missing on my HS. What is the best brand to go for when buying new ones? I've seen led displays from xpin and pinscore. Any others to choose from and does anyone have any experience from different brands?

#8 6 years ago

I'd go with the xpin setup myself, you could get different colors. I like the blue, as the backglass has a lot of blue on it, the red is ok, but there is to much red already in the game, green kinda looks cool, but I'am sure I will just stick with the orange. Xpin is local to me about a 20 mile one way trip to the shop. You only other option is to stay original (plasma) but those individual glasses cost a lot, which makes the LED displays a no brainer financially. Get back, and tell us what you decided.

#9 6 years ago

Hi jeff!

Thanks for a good answer =) My "local", or at least based in sweden dealer carries the Xpin ones so thats good! They also have a kit for replacing all at once if i remember right including the display board. I will have to think about the color but think that blue, green or original orange would fit and look good.

#10 6 years ago

I like the orange, I think it's a good contrast with the blue and blacks in the bg so all it takes is a quick glance to see your score.

#11 6 years ago

Yeah its hard to tell what would work best. I think blue or orange would be nicest.

#12 6 years ago

thanks for posting the work! Can't wait to see more

#13 6 years ago

@ northvibe, hi there! Glad to hear that =) Prepare for waiting kinda long though because i need to finish my BOP project first but there will be a log of a lot of things and obstacles I encounter along the way here so stay tuned!

#14 6 years ago

Before it gets long, here is some info on the game:

Its beat up (coin door kicked in and one leg bent kinda hard). The playfield is really bad, paint liftings all over the place and some chunks stuck to the mylar. Lockdown bar missing, glass missing and the inside of the coin door has a LOT of corrosion on it. Close to the sea holiday resort anyone? =)

Two of the displays are missing and the sound is not so stable, only music and sound effects but no cops talking or engine sound. Ive read about similar problems so I think its possible to fix.. well everything is one way or another!

Besides that, it works!
Some lamps are out of course but I played a game on it the night I picked it up and even got multiball and everything (including the police light on top that rotates but wont light up). With some help that is... the top right flipper wont get back to its original position due to a bad spring but rolling the ball by hand works

And there is a "0" on the circuit board in the backbox which is a good thing according to the instruction card thats in there too. Not a single switch is reported bad. Maybe they work or the test lied... anyway the boards look to be in nice condition so thats great.

More to come when I start the project!

#15 6 years ago

And here is a picture of one of the EOS switches in action... looks to me like its a fire hazard. Dont know if its normal but it will get replaced later.

EOS.jpg

#16 6 years ago

This is cool!

The original score cards. The top one in the german language but under it, the ones in english. The nice thing is that the top one protected the others through the years and now they are still in great condition! scan scan scan

cards.jpg

#17 6 years ago

Ok.. last picture...

This is why care should be taken when messing around with "new" projects... Wonder why this ground strap was cut.. looks like a potential chocking device to me so i put it back together. Nothing changed in the way the game operates but it feels safer. Lets hope i did not make anything worse!

strap.jpg

1 week later
#18 6 years ago

Hi everyone!

a QUESTION:

Im doing some research before the restoration and I came to think of the coin door that is really coroded and bent. I have seen WPC doors for sale but no new system 11 doors.

Since the door looks similar to a WPC-door on the outside I thought that maybe its possible to get a WPC door and then reconnect the buttons, switches and lamps to match the system 11 set up. The inside is different and the buttons are different but it must be possible? Like to get system 11 buttons and put inside the door and so on.

Anyone have any experience from this or know where to find an appropriate door for system 11?

It may be possible to fix the old door but it will be one hell of a job and probably not worth the effort.

Here are som pics of the current door:
door.jpg

/ Andy

#19 6 years ago

Andy, It is possible to go with a newer style (WPC) coin door on your HS system 11. I had a badly damaged coin door on my Earthshaker and decided to go this route. Surprised the system 11 coin doors have not been reproduced, as I'm sure many people would buy them. Anyhow, with some rewiring and transferring over your 3 button diagnostic switch from your original door, you should be good to go! As you can see it looks pretty sharp, albeit not original.

Good luck with your project!!

WPC Coin Door.jpg WPC Coin Door 2.jpg
#20 6 years ago

Thanks for answering =)

Hm.. i think i dont mind if its not original on the inside but the outside would be nice to have as close as possible. But the wpc doors are pretty close. Only need to dig into the coin solenoids and other specific stuff but i think ill go for a wpc door.

Next up is the sound issue (no engine sound and some others as well). Ill do the sound test and see what happens and take it from there. Hopefully it wont be too hard and expensive to fix. I think the problem is pretty common since ive seen other threads for games like f14 where some of the sounds are missing.

btw, your ES looks nice with that door!

A

#21 6 years ago

Andy, who is that Pinside parts sell from Bulgaria? Can't find his name, he might have one and he's in Europe too.

#22 6 years ago

System 11 coin doors are the same as the ones used on WMS video games like Joust and Robotron. You can always try and source a nice one from there, they seemed to take less of a beating on vid cabinets than pins.

#23 6 years ago

Hm.. never heard of that bulgarian part guy.. but i might do an internet search and see if something comes up. ..

@Grauwulf, thats a good tip! I didn't know that, worth looking into! Thanks! =)

#24 6 years ago

His Pinside name is arakissun and his Forum topic is "sell pinball parts".

#25 6 years ago

This might be a good option for a coin door replacement as well:

http://na.suzohapp.com/amusement_products/coin_doors/40-0707-00

#26 6 years ago

@Pinder, thats an alternative, saw it too when i googled. But im leaning towards a wpc-door just because its easier to find =)

#27 6 years ago

I would post a WTB. There are guys that have these things stockpiled someplace. We had a guy locally in SC that found a box of 5 of these in his basement and just sold them a month or so ago. They are around.

#28 6 years ago

The System 11 coin door is just a generic Coinco coin door used on a variety of pins and vids. I just got one off of eBay for $25 shipped. They are fairly common.

#29 6 years ago

I wonder if I should post my tech help questions here too or create separate threads for them. Might get more answers if I go for separate threads.

Anyway, before ripping the PF out I wanna make sure that everything works because it's easier later when you know it worked and that it was something you did when reassembling that screwed up switches and stuff.

So first I will get the sound back to what it's supposed to be.

Current symptoms:
Music plays and sound effects, like spinner, bumper and other effects work. What does not work is the engine sound, tyre screeches and crash sounds. The voices are there but can not be heard very well.

Things I imagine could cause the problem:
-Bad connections from speakers to the sound or CPU board
-bad connections between boards
- bad speaker(s)
-low volume, there is a volume control to the left inside the cab, though no difference if it's turned. Except the sound gets louder but still no car sounds.
- sound rom problem, the game boots up and give one sound bong so looks normal but who knows
- something else =)

I'll do an I game sound test and see what happens.

More to come

#30 6 years ago

Ive seen others asking about the sound in HS in the forum so i will see if those threads can help me before posting the question. ill report back with results.

#31 6 years ago

Check to make sure all your switches are working properly. The engine revving is the flipper EOS switches and the tire screech is the shooter lane if I remember correctly.

#32 6 years ago

Aha! Thats a good tip. As you can see in one of the pics above one of the eos switches sparks when closed. Don't know if it's common behavior but I will double check the switches and do a sound and switch test. If I could only find some time.

#33 6 years ago

There's actually 2 switches in the EOS switch stack. The one you're seeing sparking is the high voltage switch and the sparking is normal if the flippers don't have the suppression capacitors installed. It's the other switch in the stack you need to look at.

#34 6 years ago

Ok, so its the other one i need to check, great info! =)

I recently learned what the caps are for on the flipper units but it took some time, you notice them but dont think any more about them in detail.

Would it be a nice idea to put caps in there just to get rid of the sparking? It feels like it would reduce wear on the electric system in the game. Ive also heard that its possible to replace the system 11 flipper units with like newer wpc style units. Would that be unnecessary or are there any benefits from doing it besides the caps?

#35 6 years ago

I think the main benefit to using the WPC flipper mechs is to get rid of the cone style flipper return springs. It's more expensive than a rebuild kit and honestly I don't feel it's worth the extra money for a machine that's only going to see home use. If you get a flipper rebuild kit they typically include the capacitors in the kit for you to add. The benefit to the caps is just to slow the pitting and wear on the EOS switches to make them last longer.

#36 6 years ago
Quoted from Grauwulf:

I think the main benefit to using the WPC flipper mechs is to get rid of the cone style flipper return springs. It's more expensive than a rebuild kit and honestly I don't feel it's worth the extra money for a machine that's only going to see home use. If you get a flipper rebuild kit they typically include the capacitors in the kit for you to add. The benefit to the caps is just to slow the pitting and wear on the EOS switches to make them last longer.

I switched mine over to the standard simply because my other games were WPC (or were switched over prior to my owning them.) so it makes it a little easier to order (and less parts to store)

#37 6 years ago

Hm.. ok, so it wont matter that much then. We will see when i get that far. First of all is the sound fix. I will post back with my findings!

1 week later
#38 6 years ago

I have been starting to trouble shoot the sound problem on the game. The problem is that some of the sounds are played at low volume compared to the others. Posted about it here on pinside and I am on my way to try some fixes.

The issue could be related to a amplifier IC-chip or maybe the low (about 9,8) 12 Volts from the PSU board. I am starting with the PSU board since it needs some overhauling anyway. Im going to replace the caps to begin with and see if there is any difference. Otherwise ill go for the U4 chip on the CPU board or MPU as its called.

The PSU board has some fixes made to it. For example the 3J6 connector (hard to see its name on the schematics) is missing and the wires soldered straight to the board. It works but i want it to be as intended. Also one wire is soldered on the back of the board but should go into a connector at 3J1 so im gonna fix that too. Besides the GI input wires were toasted some time in the long and hard life of this machine and have been soldered together outside the burned connector. I will fix that too.

Here are some pictures:

hacks.jpg

toasted.jpg

labour.jpg

And a picture of the inside of the game when its on, looks kinda cosy to me. If I was some small fantasy creature i would have liked to have a beer or two there.. ^^

cosy.jpg

By the way, anyone knows how to change the topic name of a thread?

#39 6 years ago

This is awesome. I love these types of threads. Good luck.

#40 6 years ago

Thanks =)

I feel its nice to share some pictures of different things like inside the game rather than just the usual stuff and I also love to read stuff like this so i will post the progress from A to B. Will take long time but hopefully i will get the game back to a decent condition.

#41 6 years ago

I will jump in on this thread soon with some pictures of my swap. I am currently pulling topside parts and waiting to order a fancy rivet press. I didn't realize just how many rivets there are to do this game properly, between the new ramp and the plastics. I don't want to mess around with harbor freight rivet stuff anymore so I'm going for the semi tubular press.

#42 6 years ago

It always amazes me seeing wiring hacks like those, especially the GI ones. It take so much more effort to fix it wrong than it does to fix it right in most cases.

#43 6 years ago
Quoted from TheRingMaster:

I have been starting to trouble shoot the sound problem on the game. The problem is that some of the sounds are played at low volume compared to the others. Posted about it here on pinside and I am on my way to try some fixes.
The issue could be related to a amplifier IC-chip or maybe the low (about 9,8) 12 Volts from the PSU board. I am starting with the PSU board since it needs some overhauling anyway. Im going to replace the caps to begin with and see if there is any difference. Otherwise ill go for the U4 chip on the CPU board or MPU as its called.
The PSU board has some fixes made to it. For example the 3J6 connector (hard to see its name on the schematics) is missing and the wires soldered straight to the board. It works but i want it to be as intended. Also one wire is soldered on the back of the board but should go into a connector at 3J1 so im gonna fix that too. Besides the GI input wires were toasted some time in the long and hard life of this machine and have been soldered together outside the burned connector. I will fix that too.
Here are some pictures:

And a picture of the inside of the game when its on, looks kinda cosy to me. If I was some small fantasy creature i would have liked to have a beer or two there.. ^^

By the way, anyone knows how to change the topic name of a thread?

hacks.jpg 72 KB

cosy.jpg 70 KB

labour.jpg 77 KB

toasted.jpg 81 KB

That all sounds good but I hope you know what your doing with the electronics. I hope to hear nothing but good news.

#44 6 years ago

Blairally, nice! Will be interesting to see. I will need to get the rivet tool and rivets too sooner or later. Maybe you can help me to know what dimensions of the rivets to use. I have never done anything like that.

Grauwulf, yeah I agree! And it's too much work to do on location in a bar somewhere too. I mean it would have been better to swap the board and take it back to the office and do it properly as an op. Too bad there is no black box in the game that can tell the story!

Mustangpaul, hehe I will try my best! It seem to match the schematics pretty good and I will double check everything twice. Still learning but I think the best way to learn is by doing so fingers crossed! Btw the bride will soon have a new cabinet so I'm not leaving her for HS, could not resist some electronic tinkering though =)

#45 6 years ago

I have GOT to see that new cab. Any pictures of it being built?

#46 6 years ago

There will be as soon as I get the pieces for it

#47 6 years ago

The targets on my machine were really used, carved.
New targets switches are not cheap, High Speed has 15.
I figured it was worth buying the press and change only the plastic circles at $1.25.
The press pays for itself.

IMG_20130508_191934.jpg

#48 6 years ago

Thats a great idea! Did you change the right one in the pic? It looks great!

-1
#49 6 years ago
Quoted from TheRingMaster:

Thats a great idea! Did you change the right one in the pic? It looks great!

Yes, that's before and after.

#50 6 years ago

Is it just an optical illusion, or is the new target plastic smaller?

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