(Topic ID: 144867)

High Speed Pop bumpers work intermittently

By defiant1

8 years ago


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  • 51 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Gorgar666
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There are 51 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 8 years ago

So I am sorting through the new acquired Williams High Speed. I noticed the pop bumpers are not activating every time the ball makes contact. Rarely do they create any action. I have seen them work, but that is few and far between. So, if they function, what is causing them not to work 100% of the time.

Any insight would be appreciated.

d1

#2 8 years ago

Clean the spoons and clean and adjust the switches so there is about a 1/16" gap.

#3 8 years ago

Thanks, I will give that a try.

#4 8 years ago

Okay, now the kickers and pop bumpers do not work at all. So, I did visual on all the fuses, wires and boards and did not see any loose or burned out fuses/wires. So, I need to know where to start checking. I assume since the bumpers worked intermittently a couple of days ago and now they are dead that it is a power issue. But I am up for suggestions. This is my first machine and would like to know where I should start troubleshooting (tools, best method, etc.).

d1

#5 8 years ago
Quoted from defiant1:

I did visual on all the fuses

Pull and check with a meter. Visual isn't good enough.

LTG : )™

#6 8 years ago

Do you have a high speed manual? Do you have a DMM?

#7 8 years ago

Okay, now the kickers and pop bumpers do not work at all. So, I did visual on all the fuses, wires and boards and did not see any loose or burned out fuses/wires. So, I need to know where to start checking. I assume since the bumpers worked intermittently a couple of days ago and now they are dead that it is a power issue. But I am up for suggestions. This is my first machine and would like to know where I should start troubleshooting (tools, best method, etc.).

d1

Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you have a High Speed manual? Do you have a DMM?

I have a digital multimeter and have a instruction manual reprint. Not sure if it is an inclusive manual. What voltage readings am I looking for on the fuses?

d1

#8 8 years ago
Quoted from defiant1:

What voltage readings am I looking for on the fuses?

None. You turn the game off, pull the fuses, and check with your meter.

Youtube is littered with short how to videos if you need help.

LTG : )™

#9 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

None. You turn the game off, pull the fuses, and check with your meter.
Youtube is littered with short how to videos if you need help.
LTG : )™

He is tring to help you.^^^^
Look at page 47 in your manual, retangle box labled power supply F2 fuse 2.5 amp slow blow remove and test. This powers solenoid B+ 34volts DC, red wire goes to your coils, check for voltage.

#10 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

None. You turn the game off, pull the fuses, and check with your meter.
Youtube is littered with short how to videos if you need help.
LTG : )™

Thank you.

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

He is tring to help you.^^^^
Look at page 47 in your manual, retangle box labled power supply F2 fuse 2.5 amp slow blow remove and test. This powers solenoid B+ 34volts DC, red wire goes to your coils, check for voltage.

Gotcha. Thanks for the detailed answer, I appreciate it.

#12 8 years ago

Report back with your findings and we will point you down the correct path.

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Report back with your findings and we will point you down the correct path.

Well, I tested the F2 fuse and it tested good. Upon closer visual the F4 fuse right above it looked sketchy. So, I pulled that one and it tested bad. The paper that is still affixed above the power supply indicates the F2 is linked to a solenoid and the F4 is linked to a "special solenoid".

When I compared both fuses the good F2 fuse is a Bussmann MSL-5 250V. The bad F4 fuse is a unknown brand (it does have a FL or LF marking on the end) 313 2.5A 250V. They look similar in construction. The reason I bring this up, is when I go searching for replacement fuses tomorrow, is there a certain model/brand fuse that is a common replacement for either one of these.

The manual says they both should be a 2.5A 250V slow blow fuse.

I really do appreciate the help.

d1

#14 8 years ago

Do what the manual says. 2.5 Amp slow blow.

LTG : )™

#15 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Do what the manual says. 2.5 Amp slow blow.
LTG : )™

Understood. Do they all look the same (inner coiled wire within the glass tube)? When I called around today, none of the vendors knew what I was talking about. They asked me to bring in the fuse to compare it to what they have in stock. I don't have a Radio Shack or any gaming repair shops in my area.

d1

#16 8 years ago

They may look different. Just be sure the 2 1/2 amp slow blow part.

Auto part store ? Hardware store ? TV repair store ?

LTG : )

#17 8 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

They may look different. Just be sure the 2 1/2 amp slow blow part.
Auto part store ? Hardware store ? TV repair store ?
LTG : )

Ok, thanks. I will try the Napa and Ace Hardware in the area. Thanks again.

#18 8 years ago

313 2.5A 250v This is the correct fuse. 313 series means slow blow fuse. I don't think Napa will have these as I have never seen slow blow fuses in a car. Ace Hardware, maybe?

#19 8 years ago

All I could find was 3A slow blow 313s. Hopefully the extra .5A won't be an issue. I ordered 2.5A fuses, but they won't be here until next week.

#20 8 years ago

Look for one of the pops to be locked on when you turn on the power, if it is locked on turn off the power quick and check the gap on the switch.

#21 8 years ago

The bottom bumper was stuck/locked when powered up. More to follow...

Ok, it seems to be working now. I tweaked the switch and the bumper activates. The kickers also work now. Thanks for both of your assistance.

I am sure I will have many more questions as I work through being a first time pin owner.

Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

d1

#22 8 years ago
Quoted from defiant1:

The bottom bumper was stuck/locked when powered up.

This is why the fuse blew the first time. Unsolder the power wire so you can power up with out blowing fuse until you find out whats wrong.

5 years later
#23 3 years ago

Just Got me a High Speed!!...Do the pop stay lit the whole game...seems like they cut off and on at times..

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#24 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

.Do the pop stay lit the whole game...seems like they cut off and on at times..

Replace the crappy #44 lamp sockets with the new #555 lamp sockets.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5020-00

#25 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Replace the crappy #44 lamp sockets with the new #555 lamp sockets.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5020-00

ahh...ok.....hard top or touch up and save it as is?...cab is really beat up pretty good...

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#26 3 years ago

What the hell is this?

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#27 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

What the hell is this?
[quoted image]

..yea. ugly sound pot relocate hack/mod lol....question. On cold start. The 3 pops don't work and sound works fine. After about 5 games the pops start working perfectly. On the 8th game sound cuts off completely, but games continue to work fine.
I can power down for 10 mins and the cycle repeats. Strange. Can use my F-14 Power Board to test on high speed? thanks

#28 3 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Can use my F-14 Power Board to test on high speed?

Yep.

#29 3 years ago

Found this small cap with cold solder on the P/S board. That reflow seemed to solve the sound cutting off. Now the 3?pops and 2 slings are not working at all .In test also not working.

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#30 3 years ago

Check for cracked header pins on this connector.

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#31 3 years ago

Also, does this game have a system 11 cpu?

#32 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Also, does this game have a system 11 cpu?

yes oringinal. does have a blown tran patch job on the one above Q54 someone did....i will post a pic and check that pin...

#33 3 years ago

This pin, should have a white wire on the connector. This is the ground for the trigger switches.

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#34 3 years ago
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#35 3 years ago
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#36 3 years ago

I think you will have this fixed in 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. Done.

#38 3 years ago

Hmm....still nothing. F-14 P/S worked perfectly in it....hmm...

#39 3 years ago
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#40 3 years ago

I thought you were going to reflow these cracked header pins.

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#41 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I thought you were going to reflow these cracked header pins.
[quoted image]

I did

#42 3 years ago

f-14 power supply installed = pops worked correctly.

Reflowed header pins on HS power and still no pops?

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

f-14 power supply installed = pops worked correctly.
Reflowed header pins on HS power and still no pops?

Pops and slings working with F-14 P/S. Reflow Pins didn’t work.

#44 3 years ago

Also someone repined the power supply connector with what looks like turfcon pins. The power supply still has the original round header pins. Round pins don't connect real well with turfcon pins.

#45 3 years ago

I checked for conductivity from tip on pin to the pad on the other side... I’m not the best solder maybe I’ll get it rebuilt by a professional....

#46 3 years ago

Try a set of new square header pins.

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Also someone repined the power supply connector with what looks like turfcon pins. The power supply still has the original round header pins. Round pins don't connect real well with turfcon pins.

Ahh...I see.

#48 3 years ago

You can send it to me if you like.

#49 3 years ago

Thanks, but I'm waiting on Upkick Pinball here local to install the Hard Top along with a bunch of other work. I'm on their waiting list, just wanted to see if i could get it going in meantime. It could be months....

#50 3 years ago

Grumpy knows what he's doing. You can be playing it till the hard top install starts.

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