Yes you will leave the 3 connectors off until you issues are corrected. After replacing Q-74/Q-75, Then we will have to troubleshoot Q-6 issues.
(Topic ID: 284561)
Update.
Q75 and Q76 Replaced
Diodes on Left Kicked and Top Jet Bumper replace in proper orientation
Mounted the MPU back in. Attached all the connectors.
F4 did not Blow 
Started a game. 90% success
Still have no response from left kicker. Ran coil test. Left kicker does not fire. Rechecked Q75 seems fine.
Ideas on this one. I do have another 23-800-3 coil. So I could replace that, if you think that could be the issue.
Almost there!!!
Side note: When I ran the Switch Test, I got 9 - Outhole & 12 - Right Trough I have 3 balls in the game if that matter. These switch errors don't seem to effect game place, from I can tell''
Kent, WA
Quoted from Eagle509:Update.
Q75 and Q76 Replaced
Diodes on Left Kicked and Top Jet Bumper replace in proper orientation
Mounted the MPU back in. Attached all the connectors.
F4 did not Blow
Started a game. 90% success
Still have no response from left kicker. Ran coil test. Left kicker does not fire. Rechecked Q75 seems fine.
Ideas on this one. I do have another 23-800-3 coil. So I could replace that, if you think that could be the issue.
Almost there!!!
Side note: When I ran the Switch Test, I got 9 - Outhole & 12 - Right Trough I have 3 balls in the game if that matter. These switch errors don't seem to effect game place, from I can tell''
The switch test is not telling you anything about switch errors, it is telling you which switches are currently activated. With the balls in the game the switch test should indicate the trough switches are active. That is a good thing!
As for the kicker coil, you can test for power. With the game on, DMM set to DC volts, place black lead on ground strap in cabinet and check for voltage at both lugs of the coil with the red lead.
Game on in attract mode.
The left kicker has power to both lugs
Under the playing field, I put an alligator clip on the metal side rail and touched to the blue wire of the coil
(ground lead), the coil fired.
Next in the black
Game on in Diagnostic mode.
In the backbox, I put the alligator clip on the grounding strap and touched the other end to the tab of Q75, the coil fired.
I replaced the Q74 pre-driver transistor earlier today, when I replaced Q75.
I had replace the 7402 chip at U45 earlier in this endevor.
So once again I am at a loose as to what to try next.
Could it be the leaf switches ???
So the kicker doesn't work in a game and in coil test. Most likely you damaged a trace on the board when you changed U-45. Pin 11 and pin 12 would be where your issue is.
Start a game and test the voltage on each pin and let me know.
U45 was socket. Probably on a repair done by Ed Cheung back in 2016.
Started a game
Pin 10 was .174 V
Pin 11 was .130 V
SO that's like next to nothing.
Quoted from Eagle509:U45 was socket
Leave the chip in the socket when testing. You need to start a game.
Quoted from Eagle509:Pin 10 was .174 V
Pin 11 was .130 V
I need 11 and 12.
Quoted from Eagle509:Pin 12 - 4.922
Start a game and check pin 12 again, while testing push on the rubber for the kicker so that switch closes. The voltage should drop to less than 0.8 volts.
Quoted from Eagle509:so what does that mean
This means everything is good so far.
Repeat the same test, but this time test pin 13.
Quoted from Eagle509:26.69 same when rubber held
Are you sure you tested the base?
Well, either the Q-74 predriver is bad or the soldering on the collector or emitter is bad. You could test the collector for 5 volts, then do an ohm test from the emitter to the base of Q-75. Ohms should be near zero. If both of these are good then you have a bad transistor.
pulled the board out again to inspect the solders on q74 and q75. Ahhhhh found by led magnifier, the base leg of Q75, I could see that the pad was raised away from the base leg. I was able to solder it back together.
Reinstalled the board and BINGO I have a fully functioning pinball machine.
Grumpy I have to thank you for all your help and patience with me. I have learned a lot through this process. One is that my soldering skills need some work.
Once again THANKS Grumpy you are the greatest !!
looks like I got to excited upon success, it was short lived. Played 5 games, all good and F2 blows on the power supply board. Uggg
And that was my last 2.5A slow blow fuse. I ordered some couple days ago, so will be next week sometime, depending on USPS
F-2 powers the coils/relays on one of the red wires. You can use coil test when you replace the fuse to test. Note which coils are on the red power wires, run coil test on these coils. Use the up/down button to repeat the same coil over and over. Watch the fuse when the coil fires, you may see the filament moving or glowing when you get to the bad coil.
Post a picture of the power supply. Take a voltage reading from test point #1 on the power supply also.
Quoted from Eagle509:5.018 at Test 1
This is good, what do you read at test points 3 and 4.
Quoted from Eagle509:Test Point 3 12.26
Test Point 4 -13.64
These are good too. There are some test points on the cpu. Can you put the red lead on the 5 volt test point, and the black lead on the ground test point. Let me know what these read.
Quoted from Eagle509:4.967 V
Nothing out of place so far.
You could reseat the game ROMs and the processor chips and retest.
I am thinking that I just play it a while, once I get the new flipper from Marco. See what happens. Then we go back and visit any issues, that need addressed.
Got the flippers today. Replaced both the lower flippers, Left one doesn't seem to want to stay in place, once tightened.
Started up the game and got an "Adjust Switch" warning on:
39 Upper Left Hideout
42 Left Ramp
46 Right Spinner
Then I did put it in test mode - Switch Edges The following switches did not get a display reading
15 , 23, 31, 39, 47 and 42 46
I noticed that the first group of 5 were all on the row of the switch matrix 1J10-2 Wht-Vio So tightened that wire in the connector. 15, 23, 31, 39 and 47 all started working.
Now when I start the game I get "Adjust Switch" warning on 42 & 46. I checked all the wires on 1J8 & 1J10, still getting the same warnings on game start, and nothing on switch edge test.
So making progress anyways.
Suggestions ?
I would look for a broken wire at one of these two switches or the previous switch in line. The switches are not in the order the manual list them, they are wired to save wire.
1 week later
Back at it today. Still getting "Adjust Switch" 42 & 46
I checked continuity from j8-7, to all switches below in the Switch Matrix Table, 41,42,42,44,45,46,47 & 48. And all the combinations of those switches. All had continuity between them.
Did the same for j10-8 and j10-3.
Don't see any broken wires, and nothing seems to be grounding.
I have punched down all wires on J8 & J10.
This has to be something simple, but I just don't see it.
Ideas??
I think I may have isolated the problem with 42. Both micro switchs, 42 & 43, come down to a plug, they share the Grn-Blu wire. Wht-Red is for 42 Wht-Orn is for 43.
I disconnected the plug, put the DMM on 43, engaged the micro switch and got a reading. When I did the same with 42, I got no reading.
So I'm thinking the micro switch, SW-1A-160, may be bad. Or possibly I broke wire at the switch. Will have to take out the ramp to get to it.
Your thoughts, before I do that? I understand SW-1A-160 is hard to find.
Your thinking is right on track. The wire could be broken or the contacts maybe dirty. The wire form maybe bent not allowing the switch contacts to close. Only removing the ramp will tell you what's next.
Pulled the ramp. and took off the switch at 42, pic below. No way this was going to make contact. so 42 was in a constant open stage. Obviously a problem with the switch, but with it being open, why would it generate an "Adjust Switch" error on power up.
is there a good way to bend the contacts back in line, or best to replace the switch (witch I'm not sure I can find).
I also found another 2 1/2 inch crack in the ramp, that I didn't know was there.
![20210117_095314[1] (resized).jpg](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAAAAACH5BAEKAAEALAAAAAABAAEAAAICTAEAOw==)
20210117_095314[1] (resized).jpgWhen the game doesn't see a switch closed in @ 30 games it give an alert a start up so the operator knows that there is a problem.
You can bend it back, just be careful. There is a tool for this or you can use pliers.
https://www.pinballlife.com/ultimate-leaf-adjuster-tool.html
Clean the contacts by closing the switch with your fingers while pulling a new dollar bill thru the closed contacts.
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