I need help diagnosing my High Speed Pinball.

When running a coil test the following coils do not click:
All Flippers
All Pop Bumbers
Both right and left hideaways - but they do have a faint clicking, just not firing.

Thanks in advance.

That wasn't it. Thanks though.

I replaced the fuses in the backbox, am I missing one on the playfield?

Is there a transistor on the mpu board that would cause all of these not to work?

Basically, when I turn it on. It loads the game, kicks out the ball to play but the flippers don't work, pops don't work and both hideaways.

I'm a novice not sure on how to short out the transistor tab, but if explained I'm sure I can do it.

I'm trying to follow the wires back to the mpu board, but it's a headache... Any idea what connection(s) they are?

I'll double check all of the molex connectors again. Thanks for the help!

That fuse was bad, so now the hideaways fire!

However, I still have a mess. I bought this at an auction pretty cheap, now I know why...
The previous owner replaced both flipper coils, two pop bumpers coils (neither look to be the correct coil). Also he added diodes in an unusual way, or at least to me.

When I run the coil test now the below do not fire: (Which is now two less then before)
Left Kicker 17
Right Kicker 18
R. Jet Bumper 19
LL Jet Bumper 20
UL Jet Bumper 21
Top Flasher 22

Lastly, there is some damage on the board where the transistors are on J19. So I will most likely send the board in for repair.

I think my problem is due to some bad transistors and possible board damage. However I am not sure what caused it...

Also, I still have no idea why the flippers aren't working, unless it has something to do with J19, where all the damage is done.

Burnt Transistors.

IMAG0323_(resized).jpg

This is one of the flipper coils. Double diodes??? One on the coil, and one attached by curly wires?

IMAG0316_(resized).jpg

3 different coils for the Pop Bumpers. The ones replaced have the curly diodes.

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No they don't work during game play either.

Yes, I agree. I am going to replace all of the diodes and lose the telephone wire.

There is a separate board, and the fuse is good. You are correct, there is a fuse for the special solenoids, and that is good as well. I do think it is odd that none of the fuses blow.

Yes, and I used it to check the fuses.

All 3 lugs on both coils registered 069.5 DC Voltage
All 3 Pop Bumpers registered 25.18 on all lugs.
Both Kickers registered 25.30 on all lugs.

Left Flipper coil

IMAG0330_(resized).jpg

Right Flipper Coil

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I also check the resistance on the transistors Q69, Q71, Q73, Q75, Q77 and they all registered 041.5. Q79 registered 0.L?

I'm pretty sure this is the molex for the flippers, among other things. It looks like it was a clear molex at one point? I was unable to separate the connection to inspect further. I didn't want to put to much force into it so I don't break it. Is it possible this connection overheated?

IMAG0334_(resized).jpg

The following don't fire in the game or during test:
Both Flippers
Both Kickers
All 3 pop bumpers

I'm not sure which are 50V. All the other coils in the game do fire.

Yes clearly the board will need some work.

That worked.

That worked as well.
I also shorted out the transistor tabs on J19, as someone else recommended, they also all fired except the flasher on Q79.

I checked that, the bulb is fine. The socket also looked corroded, but figured it had to be the transistor since it didn't register any resistance.

I can solder, but I have never attempted on a board. I guess it's time to give it a shot. I do not have a logic probe, but will order one now. Is there a logic probe you would recommend, I'll probably just order off of Amazon.

Thanks for all of your help!

Logic probe arrived today.

I wasn't sure how to determine what pin is 13 or 6. I believe in both photos it is the bottom picture that is correct?

u50_(resized).jpg

u56_(resized).jpg

Do you start with the top row or bottom row? Also the board installed is upside down compared to the manual. So looking at the board installed, do I start with the top or bottom row?

Pin 13 on U50 is Lo, and Pin 6 on U56 is Hi.

When I start a game 11, 12, are both lo. 13 is now hi. Pin 6 on U56 is still hi.

Both are hi in start game mode.

It looks like both U55 and U56 have been replaced. And yes I read the guide. Also transistor Q76 looks like one of the prongs has broke. Where is the best place to order these parts?

IMAG0357_(resized).jpg

IMAG0356_(resized).jpg

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Is U56 an 7406 chip?

I'm not sure what that means, but I will google it. Unless you want to explain it.

I have not. Are you referring to the power supply? I'll google that as well, unless you want to explain it, and will let you know.

Thanks again for all of your help!

Parts arrived today. I installed the chip and transistor and now it works!

Those flashers still don't work, I replaced the bulbs, and the 4 player display doesn't work. But I will check on the wiring tomorrow.

Thanks for all of your help, soldering the board was a lot easier than I thought!

No. Is that on the board or playfield?

I haven't check the dropping resistor yet, and yes I will order a new connector. Hopefully I will have time next week.

The dropping resistor was missing, so those work now. However, on my 8th game last night, the pop bumpers and the side slings quit working again. I'm not sure if I'll have to replace the chip or transistor again, I'll reread this post to determine that. But before I do that I want to figure out why it keeps blowing them. Bad diode or coil?

Flashers are fine. Just those 5 all at the same time. I have not replaced the molex yet.

I reflowed, looks like it was done once or twice before. Also, I should have checked this right away, the special solenoid was blown. Replaced it and got another 8 games until it blew again. I'll start working on replacing that molex next.

I was going to cut out the Molex tonight, and splice the wires together, but I kind of ran into a problem. There's more wires coming off the head then going into the playfield. Also, some of the wire colors aren't matching up? Lastly, I did get the molex apart and all the pins on both sides, look really good to me.

I was hoping to just cut off both sides of the molex, and splice the wires by color. But right now I'll have 2 wires coming from the head that don't go to anything, and some, not all of the wires coming from the head are not the same color as the wires going to the playfield.