Pin 13 on U50 is Lo, and Pin 6 on U56 is Hi.
That sounds like U-56 is fine. Did you start a game when you checked this? If you did then you will need to check U-50 pins 11 and 12. They both should be low.
Your U-56 chip is original to the board and has not been replaced before. Did you read Terry B soldering guide?
Big Daddys Enterprises has everything you would ever need. He has great prices too. When you replace a transistor use a TIP 102 instead it has 8 amp rating instead of 5 amps. Take a pic of your power supply board.
You may want to put a cap kit in the p/s. But it looks good otherwise. Have you measured the 5, 12 and -12 volts on the test points?
Quoted from GRUMPY:You may want to put a cap kit in the p/s.
I'm not sure what that means, but I will google it. Unless you want to explain it.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Have you measured the 5, 12 and -12 volts on the test points?
I have not. Are you referring to the power supply? I'll google that as well, unless you want to explain it, and will let you know.
Thanks again for all of your help!
Quoted from Jared1862:I have not. Are you referring to the power supply?
There are 4 test points on your p/s. TP 1 is for 5 volts and is up at the top to the left of the cement resistor. TP 2 is ground. TP 3 is 12 volts and TP 4 is -12 volts. TP 2, 3, 4, are lust below the Williams sticker.
Quoted from Jared1862:You may want to put a cap kit in the p/s.
I'm not sure what that means,
There are electrolytic caps on the p/s to filter out unwanted AC ripple and noise. These caps are filled with an acid solution needed for there operation. These caps dry out after 15-20 years and become less effective and need to be replaced. Big Daddys has a kit with all the correct caps needed to repair a p/s.
Do you want to see the flippers and 5 of the 6 special solenoids work in a game? Take a very small wire @ 22 ga. and solder it to pin 6 of U-56. Strip the other end and put it under a screw head that holds the board down. Then play a game and see what works.
Parts arrived today. I installed the chip and transistor and now it works!
Those flashers still don't work, I replaced the bulbs, and the 4 player display doesn't work. But I will check on the wiring tomorrow.
Thanks for all of your help, soldering the board was a lot easier than I thought!
Quoted from Jared1862:I installed the chip and transistor and now it works!
Glad to hear it.
Quoted from Jared1862:Those flashers still don't work
Did you check the dropping resistor?
Quoted from Jared1862:No. Is that on the board or playfield?
It would be under the playfield not far from the bulbs. Its mounted on a terminal board with 2 resistors, the small one is the warming resistor and the larger on is the dropping resistor.
So how did this turn out? It maybe time to replace that burnt connector so that your trouble free in the future.
I haven't check the dropping resistor yet, and yes I will order a new connector. Hopefully I will have time next week.
Quoted from Jared1862:and yes I will order a new connector
Now the only reason for this connector is to remove the play field quickly, if that isn't needed then you can just slice each wire together.
The dropping resistor was missing, so those work now. However, on my 8th game last night, the pop bumpers and the side slings quit working again. I'm not sure if I'll have to replace the chip or transistor again, I'll reread this post to determine that. But before I do that I want to figure out why it keeps blowing them. Bad diode or coil?
Quoted from Jared1862:the pop bumpers and the side slings quit working again.
All five at the same time? Did the top playfield flashers quit also? If this has happened then remove your power supply and reflow the header pins on 3J6. Pin 15 on this connector is the ground for all of there switch inputs. Have you replaced the big molex connector as this wire may travel thru it and not have contact any more.
Quoted from GRUMPY:reflow the header pins on 3J6. Pin 15 on this connector
This is a white wire. If reflowing doesn't help then pull these out of the molex connector and splice them together.
I reflowed, looks like it was done once or twice before. Also, I should have checked this right away, the special solenoid was blown. Replaced it and got another 8 games until it blew again. I'll start working on replacing that molex next.
Quoted from Jared1862:I'll start working on replacing that molex next.
It will be time well spent.
I was going to cut out the Molex tonight, and splice the wires together, but I kind of ran into a problem. There's more wires coming off the head then going into the playfield. Also, some of the wire colors aren't matching up? Lastly, I did get the molex apart and all the pins on both sides, look really good to me.
I was hoping to just cut off both sides of the molex, and splice the wires by color. But right now I'll have 2 wires coming from the head that don't go to anything, and some, not all of the wires coming from the head are not the same color as the wires going to the playfield.
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