(Topic ID: 152298)

High Speed Help

By Jared1862

8 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 81 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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There are 81 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 years ago

Pin 13 on U50 is Lo, and Pin 6 on U56 is Hi.

#52 8 years ago

That sounds like U-56 is fine. Did you start a game when you checked this? If you did then you will need to check U-50 pins 11 and 12. They both should be low.

#53 8 years ago

When I start a game 11, 12, are both lo. 13 is now hi. Pin 6 on U56 is still hi.

#54 8 years ago

Check pin 5 of U-56 and then check pin 6.

#55 8 years ago

Both are hi in start game mode.

#56 8 years ago

Then you have a bad U-56 chip.

#57 8 years ago

Your U-56 chip is original to the board and has not been replaced before. Did you read Terry B soldering guide?

#58 8 years ago

It looks like both U55 and U56 have been replaced. And yes I read the guide. Also transistor Q76 looks like one of the prongs has broke. Where is the best place to order these parts?

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#59 8 years ago

Big Daddys Enterprises has everything you would ever need. He has great prices too. When you replace a transistor use a TIP 102 instead it has 8 amp rating instead of 5 amps. Take a pic of your power supply board.

#60 8 years ago

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#61 8 years ago

Is U56 an 7406 chip?

#62 8 years ago

You may want to put a cap kit in the p/s. But it looks good otherwise. Have you measured the 5, 12 and -12 volts on the test points?

#63 8 years ago
Quoted from Jared1862:

Is U56 an 7406 chip?

Yes.

#64 8 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You may want to put a cap kit in the p/s.

I'm not sure what that means, but I will google it. Unless you want to explain it.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Have you measured the 5, 12 and -12 volts on the test points?

I have not. Are you referring to the power supply? I'll google that as well, unless you want to explain it, and will let you know.

Thanks again for all of your help!

#65 8 years ago
Quoted from Jared1862:

I have not. Are you referring to the power supply?

There are 4 test points on your p/s. TP 1 is for 5 volts and is up at the top to the left of the cement resistor. TP 2 is ground. TP 3 is 12 volts and TP 4 is -12 volts. TP 2, 3, 4, are lust below the Williams sticker.

Quoted from Jared1862:You may want to put a cap kit in the p/s.
I'm not sure what that means,

There are electrolytic caps on the p/s to filter out unwanted AC ripple and noise. These caps are filled with an acid solution needed for there operation. These caps dry out after 15-20 years and become less effective and need to be replaced. Big Daddys has a kit with all the correct caps needed to repair a p/s.

#66 8 years ago

Do you want to see the flippers and 5 of the 6 special solenoids work in a game? Take a very small wire @ 22 ga. and solder it to pin 6 of U-56. Strip the other end and put it under a screw head that holds the board down. Then play a game and see what works.

2 weeks later
#67 8 years ago

Parts arrived today. I installed the chip and transistor and now it works!

Those flashers still don't work, I replaced the bulbs, and the 4 player display doesn't work. But I will check on the wiring tomorrow.

Thanks for all of your help, soldering the board was a lot easier than I thought!

#68 8 years ago
Quoted from Jared1862:

I installed the chip and transistor and now it works!

Glad to hear it.

Quoted from Jared1862:

Those flashers still don't work

Did you check the dropping resistor?

#69 8 years ago

No. Is that on the board or playfield?

#70 8 years ago
Quoted from Jared1862:

No. Is that on the board or playfield?

It would be under the playfield not far from the bulbs. Its mounted on a terminal board with 2 resistors, the small one is the warming resistor and the larger on is the dropping resistor.

2 weeks later
#71 8 years ago

So how did this turn out? It maybe time to replace that burnt connector so that your trouble free in the future.

#72 7 years ago

I haven't check the dropping resistor yet, and yes I will order a new connector. Hopefully I will have time next week.

#73 7 years ago
Quoted from Jared1862:

and yes I will order a new connector

Now the only reason for this connector is to remove the play field quickly, if that isn't needed then you can just slice each wire together.

3 weeks later
#74 7 years ago

The dropping resistor was missing, so those work now. However, on my 8th game last night, the pop bumpers and the side slings quit working again. I'm not sure if I'll have to replace the chip or transistor again, I'll reread this post to determine that. But before I do that I want to figure out why it keeps blowing them. Bad diode or coil?

#75 7 years ago
Quoted from Jared1862:

the pop bumpers and the side slings quit working again.

All five at the same time? Did the top playfield flashers quit also? If this has happened then remove your power supply and reflow the header pins on 3J6. Pin 15 on this connector is the ground for all of there switch inputs. Have you replaced the big molex connector as this wire may travel thru it and not have contact any more.

#76 7 years ago

Flashers are fine. Just those 5 all at the same time. I have not replaced the molex yet.

#77 7 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

reflow the header pins on 3J6. Pin 15 on this connector

This is a white wire. If reflowing doesn't help then pull these out of the molex connector and splice them together.

#78 7 years ago

I reflowed, looks like it was done once or twice before. Also, I should have checked this right away, the special solenoid was blown. Replaced it and got another 8 games until it blew again. I'll start working on replacing that molex next.

#79 7 years ago
Quoted from Jared1862:

I'll start working on replacing that molex next.

It will be time well spent.

1 week later
#80 7 years ago

I was going to cut out the Molex tonight, and splice the wires together, but I kind of ran into a problem. There's more wires coming off the head then going into the playfield. Also, some of the wire colors aren't matching up? Lastly, I did get the molex apart and all the pins on both sides, look really good to me.

I was hoping to just cut off both sides of the molex, and splice the wires by color. But right now I'll have 2 wires coming from the head that don't go to anything, and some, not all of the wires coming from the head are not the same color as the wires going to the playfield.

#81 7 years ago

Do you know what connector your working on? Or can you take a good pic of the wire colors.

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