(Topic ID: 188002)

High Speed Game Entry CPU Issue / Battery Damage?

By harryhoudini

6 years ago


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#1 6 years ago

The machine appears to have been sitting in a damp place for a long time and there looks to be some battery acid damage but I've never really seen it in person. The game boots up, notices there is no stored settings, I can set the settings to factory (although the display output is missing some parts of the letters) and then it lights up like it is waiting for coins. Hitting the start button makes the "vroom" sound and then nothing changes. The CPU board letter is "0" and then I hit the CPU button and it goes to "E".

Unless someone replaced the battery holder (which means you would think it worked at that point) I don't see any damage on it.

I assume the traces are messed up somewhere but maybe this is worse? I am going to pull the board and check out the back side but I was hoping for a bit of direction as to where to go before I do that. Any other things to look at, tests to do, etc? Fuses look intact.

I can post a pic of the back side if I should pull it as a next step. I saw someone on ebay selling a repair service for the high speed version so $300 it seems or refurb boards for $500. Not sure what a damaged version is worth, assuming this is the issue and someone can fix it.

Thanks!

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#2 6 years ago

Just in that picture you have a lot of problems.U41, U42, U51, U49 all look like damage and to their traces. No way of knowing what lurks under that battery holder.

LTG : )

#3 6 years ago

What LTG said, plus see those dark areas in the red circles. That's where the corrosion has gotten under the solder mask and is eating away at the traces. That is never a good sign and means components will need to be uninstalled and the solder mask physically removed to get to all of the damage.

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#4 6 years ago

Thanks, so I pulled it and in more light I can definitely see the trace issues and where the battery acid killed it. So now I guess my question is would this board be salvageable by someone who knows what they are doing? Better to sell it and grab a refurb one?

Here are a bunch of shots of the various burned out transistors and such:
https://goo.gl/photos/7mZB9Ry3Z1zySxnPA

#5 6 years ago

Thanks terryb (hey Banning, my sister lives near there... bet you don't hear that often).

I assume that's fairly detailed work so probably not for the likes of me. I'll do some searching.

#6 6 years ago

I so wanted this pin just didn't have room for the other one. Good luck on the project, keep me posted.

#7 6 years ago

Darscot Yeah, we'll see what happens with that FF. I am just about done with my Cyclone rebuild so this will go nicely with that one... if I can get the board working or replaced

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

bet you don't hear that often

No I don't.

That board need to be completely refurbished. If the person doing the job doesn't properly deal with the alkaline damage (and some of the previous rework) then the board will just have more problems in the future. If repaired properly it will be as good as new. If you can get one of the well known board repair guys to touch it (see below) and get it done for $300 I'd probably go that route. The problem is it's a lot of labor to do it properly.

You could try ChrisHibler, Borygard or JohnWartJr. A lot of guys won't take boards though with alkaline damage.

#9 6 years ago

Thanks @terryb. Beaumont

I managed to grab one from Todd at Big Daddy just now. So at least I have something, if this one is toast. Then the folks on ebay who do the repairs said they thought it was possible to repair at their listing price, so that is another option. At least I'll have a working board one way or another.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Then the folks on ebay who do the repairs said they thought it was possible to repair at their listing price, so that is another option.

What's the company?

#11 6 years ago

ebay.com link: itm

I sent them pics. They say yes. I wrote back "you sure?" in much more detail.

#12 6 years ago

I don't recognize them but they may use a different name on ebay. I see a lot of boards where the alkaline damage is not treated properly and the board ends up being an ongoing nightmare. I would ask them what their process is for repairing battery damaged boards. The link below will provide some info on what the process should be like.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-guide-to-repairing-alkaline-battery-damage

I just hate to see you spend $300 and end up with a mess. I would also contact the people I mentioned above (they're all on Pinside) since I know they do good work.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

I just hate to see you spend $300 and end up with a mess. I would also contact the people I mentioned above (they're all on Pinside) since I know they do good work.

This.

Why trust a stranger ? They didn't help you sort this out. Pinsiders did.

LTG : )

#14 6 years ago

I figured, wrongly probably, that the folks on ebay were probably well known here since they are REALLY specific in what they are repairing in that ad. I also spoke with Dr. Edward Cheung who comes up with searches for System 11 repairs and seems to be around these forums as well. So looks like there are a few people who might be reputable around who can do it. Lucky for me, I can just sell the board as is now if someone wants to pick it up.. posted it in the classifieds and on ebay. Then someone else can deal with restoring it

1 week later
#15 6 years ago
Quoted from harryhoudini:

Thanks, so I pulled it and in more light I can definitely see the trace issues and where the battery acid killed it. So now I guess my question is would this board be salvageable by someone who knows what they are doing? Better to sell it and grab a refurb one?
Here are a bunch of shots of the various burned out transistors and such:
https://goo.gl/photos/7mZB9Ry3Z1zySxnPA

Repairable by someone who knows what they are doing, yes. However I am not sure it would be worth the cost if you aren't doing it yourself. I would remove the components, abrase the solder mask off, remove any corrosion with a water vinegar mixture. After this I would test continuity on all the traces and repair with wire where necessary. Then solder the parts back on.

#16 6 years ago

WAY beyond my knowledge to do, I could learn but this isn't the board to do that on, I think. I was able to sell on ebay and bought a bigdaddy restored board. The board I bought had a repair done that was a bunch of tiny wires and replacing some parts of the board that weren't usable (traces gone). Highly intricate work, could never do that myself. But it worked out, I got a working board and someone gets a board to repair.

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