Meriden, CT
Jeff at Classic arcades. He has a website and eBay store.
(Topic ID: 31372)
Linked Games
High Speed
Williams, 1986
Topic Gallery
Brampton, ON
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Jeff at Classic arcades. He has a website and eBay store.
Thanks, I've ordered from Jeff a few times before but mostly drop-targets, pop caps and decals. I have Bally Rolling Stones stencils that have yet to be used.
So, I'm guessing you wouldn't recommend getting HS stencils from Jeff then? I have read about issues.
Btw, I think it's only fair to say Jeff's product support has been excellent here and would definitely order drops and decals from him again.
This is my only experience with him. Cant say anything about his other products.
He said he's looking into the issue. Until then I wouldn't recommend them. I believe thepinfamily has also told me he had problems with them too
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:The stencils are horrible and don't line up at all.
Something i'm not pleased to read... At all...
Yes. Definitely cut the white ones up. There is no registration marks on any stencil and they are not cut the same size so trying to use one corner as a reference point to line each layer up doesn't work either. Can't see through anything to see previous layer either. Plus the vinyl is way too tacky. Even with great prep and priming they still pulled up some paint from the base coat.
Spacing from the word high speed to the car is too far apart as well on the white should be very close. Instead its several inches further away.
Wow, that REALLY sucks to hear. I dropped 165 bucks on those same stencils on ebay last week that are shipping out to me now. So are they all garbage or just the left side white portion? I'm considering trying to get a refund and creating my own now.
It's a bit of a pain but up to the white can be done if your careful. Head has no white so you are good there. Definetly cut the white up into seperate areas(car,high speed, Williams logo) and apply seperately. By the time we figured out the left side was so off the stencil was way too compromised to attemp using it
Thanks for the heads up.....glad I saw this before i tried mine. Very disappointing they don't line up perfectly as you would just expect that but I think I'll give it a shot cutting them white one up and try it in chunks. I'll let you know how it turns out.
BTW, love this thread as it has been so much help in my own HS restoration already. Was curious did you use paint stripper on the cab, or just sand down it down smooth. Any recommendations on Sandpaper Grit for the sanding?
Here's what I'll do.
- Cut the white stencil in pieces
- On a sunny day, tape the red stencil in the living room window
- Place the white stencil pieces where they should go, over the red stencil and tape them
- For each white piece, make 3 holes (registration marks) with a paper punch, piercing the red stencil at the same time.
- Paint yellow
- Place red stencil and draw circles in the holes with a pencil easily erasable
- Cover the holes with masking tape
- Paint red and remove stencil
- Use the drawn circles to place white stencil pieces
- Cover any un-masked area
- Paint white
- Remove stencils
- Erase registration marks
Sandpaper. Start with like 80 or coarser to get everything cleaned up. Then go up to 220 or so to smooth it out a bit and start bondoing.
Good plan. Some one had to guineapig these first I guess
. Hope it helps everyone else. Cab will still be 10 times better than it was.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:I would leave that! That's got a story behind it
I toyed with the idea of fully restoring the cab and re-carve the dick afterwards...
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:Hey man, there's a dick on your highspeed.
lol....i was just gonna say that 
Stencil made and applied! Paint in the morning and I will be re assembling the cab wen I get home from work. Back on track!
....Almost
Basicly what I did. Trickiest part was the word high speed. The H touches the car artwork on this side. Side I scanned it touches the D. Had to figure out how they overlapped on this side with nothing to go by.
I've gotten pretty fast at drawing vectors over scans and photos. I'm not going to be attempting any whole playfields, but it's very satisfying to do your own stencil redraws and know they're right.
Registration hint for those who read this later: on your first layer stencil - draw and cut a couple of squares/rectangles out of the artwork area. when you peel the first stencil, leave those squares masked. draw and cut the same shape in subsequent color/layers in the same spot in your artwork file, then you can stick the holes in the stencil over the first layer's squares for perfect registration. This only works if you're doing full coverage stencils carried on backing paper. If you're going full commando like Whridls and cutting smaller stencil sections, then you just have to rely on your own skills and eye to lay them out.
Good stuff. I know how hard it is to do that. 
Quoted from Lowrent:Can you explain a bit further the problems with the stencils ?
Will I have more success if I cut the white stencil to isolate the High Speed logo and each car separately ?
I actually did the stenciling for this cab and NO I wouldn't recommend his stencils EVER!
On the HS white stencil the images aren't lined up properly with the 2 previous colors. They're not even lined up with themselves properly.
The material he uses to make the stencils is so sticky that it rips up the base coats. The material is so dense that lining them up without ANY reference points is borderline impossible. The lack of registration markers, IMO, is just lazy and inexcusable. Especially when the layers aren't calibrated to fit from even a single reference point of earlier stencils.
I've done a lot of stenciling, arcade & pinball, and this is the first time I've used this persons stuff and I'll never use them again.
Biggest problem with that would be the cutter I used can only go up to 12" wide. Not wide enough for the cab in one piece. I will try and scan the cab at some point if I have a chance and creat some vector files for everyone. Vinyl shop should be able to cut those.
Alright it's been nuts the past 24 hours or so. Game is completely playable now.
Lots of tracing down issues. Several blown fuses two blown transistors and a couple bad diodes. Everything is running smooth again. All because of 2 little details I overlooked.
1 unreleased issue is I have no displays. Traced it back to no +100 volts DC coming from the power supply. Usually caused by a bad 39k ohm 1 or 2 watt flameproof resistor on the power board. Of course I don't have any on me and no one stocks them locally. I will be stopping at a friends house on the way down to borrow his power supply board for the show. If anyone has any of those resistors and would bring them to the show that would be much appreciated!
Game still lacks a few details. Need to shop out sticker the cab still. It's not as pretty in there right now as I want. Custom start button is not implemented yet and post LEDs are not integrated. Have to make a revision to the board for it.
Games ready for the show! See everyone there tomorrow.
Congrats, it looks great!
I'm picking up a batch of powdered parts from Alex tomorrow - I look forward to checking the machine out. (We may have to drive my car instead of the Wrangler so that I'm not tempted...)
I'd feel bad selling the game at the show at this point still needs a few small things to tie it all together. If some one wants to buy it after playing it maybe they can have it in a couple weeks. Unless they really just want it the way it is I suppose they could make an offer.
Silly mistake really. High power wire on two coils put on the wrong lugs. Shorted out through the diode on the coil itself. Was soldering by orientation of my pictures, did not pay attention to the diode on the coil.
High power wire goes to coil lug with banded side of the diode. That as a straight short to ground. Fried the diode, transistor and indicate my popped the slow blow 2.5 amp fuses. One was on the special solenoid circuit and other on regular solenoid circuit.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:Silly mistake really. High power wire on two coils put on the wrong lugs. Shorted out through the diode on the coil itself. Was soldering by orientation of my pictures, did not pay attention to the diode on the coil.
High power wire goes to coil lug with banded side of the diode. That as a straight short to ground. Fried the diode, transistor and indicate my popped the slow blow 2.5 amp fuses. One was on the special solenoid circuit and other on regular solenoid circuit.
I've done that as well. Replaced a coil on NASCAR and the new coil had the diode oriented the opposite way. I just hooked it up the same way the old one was without checking. Oops.
Quoted from Pinchroma:Ill have a soldering iron, some solder, and a dmm with me if needed
I've got tons of tools and parts to keep this going. Will swap out the resistors when I get there. Should be there by 11:15
It has been a very good read and very educational, thanks for all the tips. Looking forward to starting my refurbish on my High Speed this weekend. Allentown sounds like its the place to be this weekend however it is a bit far for me at this time. Would love to see this pin in person.
Well, to all of you going, have fun.
Pinchroma, I will be contacting you after this weekend to get more info on powder coating.
Quoted from Whridlsoncestood:High power wire on two coils put on the wrong lugs. Shorted out through the diode on the coil itself. Was soldering by orientation of my pictures, did not pay attention to the diode on the coil.
That's funny, I was looking at my pictures and notes thinking "I'm 100% sure i'll fuck something up if I rely solely on that".
My buddy and I were playing a Tron Pro right next to this high speed. I couldn't take my eyes off it. Had to stop and tell the owner how beautiful it was. Might have been the best looking pin at the show.
Confession: I am the extremely fortunate and happy buyer! I fell in love with this HS the moment I saw it today. I could hardly believe what a fabulous job you did on the restoration. It's stunning. I wasn't looking to buy another pin, but I couldn't pass on this one-of-a-kind work of art. I couldn't walk away without buying it. Without a doubt, it will be the showpiece of my little collection. Thanks so much for the sale. HS is a great pin, but you've taken it to a whole new level. Wonderful!
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