Nope. The yellow ring around the inserts has little spots of white in them. It's still two tone grey
Nope. The yellow ring around the inserts has little spots of white in them. It's still two tone grey
Oh yes very nice indeed. It's obviously hard to see what the Frisket is covering to prevent being painted. I thought you had painted the upper light grey border all white, thinking it had yellowed...
can i send you mine when you are done? it looks amazing!!!! i would love to be able to do this kind of work to mine, but i lack the patients and talent.
christopher
Why don't you do all the touchups then start to clear? I'm thinking of tackling mine now that you encouraged me.
When huge areas are masked and sprayed if I lay mask over the sprayed areas to paint another color I run the risk of pulling up what I just painted when I pull off the 2nd mask. A thin coat of clear seals it all in. Just helps so I don't lose progress.
Any craft store has 8.5z11 sheets. Or I bought a 12" x 1000' roll on eBay
For colors I try a spot on the playfield of whatever colors look closest. When it dries wipe it with Naptha. If it blends right in its your color. If not start mixing colors and repeat.
Quoted from NinJaBooT:When you airbrush over the clear it doesn't run?
Airbrushing is a slow process that requires many lite coats allowing drying in between coats. Yes it will run if your impatient and spray to heavy.
I sand with 500 grit after clearing to level everything after clearing. Also helps the airbrush paint "stick"
Quoted from NinJaBooT:When you airbrush over the clear it doesn't run?
I'am sure that he is sanding abit to give a some tooth for the paint being airbrushed on.
Looking good there Whridlsoncestood, impressive.
Wow, Thanks for the thread - you have definitley inspired me to do my own restoration.
So what are you using for the clear and how are you spraying it? Is it a rattle can, do you use your airbrush or do you use siphon fed/HVLP type of sprayer to apply?
And last question, what brand of Acrylics are you using and are you mixing them with anything (retarder or thinner?)
For clear I am using varathane. No rattle cans. I buy it by the gallon. I'm using a Fuji turbine HVLP setup to spray it. I have no place to spray toxic auto. I have used rattle cans in the past with success tho if its all you can. Just take lots of prep and patience for good results.
Paints are acrylics from the craft store. I only thin to spray with my basic craft airbrush. I thin with invisible glass. It's simmilar to windex which most people use to thin acrylics but has no blue tint to it so it won't discolor whites or other light colors.
I can get pictures of my equipment if you'd like.
Yes, if you could post a couple pix of your equipment and materials it would be appreciated.
Also, when you clear between colors, are you doing the entire playfield or just the freshly painted section and sanding level?
Thanks for the tip on the Invisible Glass. I use it at home, but never knew that you could use it to thin your acrylics. Up to this point, I have mainly done just small brush touchups and followed the methods on Pinrepair. So I am interested in trying to take it to the next level for a full playfield restoration.
In case you were looking for cabinet stencils, 10 have just been listed on Ebay.
ebay.com link: Williams HIGH SPEED Pinball Machine Stencil Kit
Thanks for the link. Found that last night as well. If you notice there is only 9 left
Well worth 159. Saves me a ton of time and even if I cut then myself after making the art files I would still have to buy the vinyl.
I have no idea how I missed this thread till now...
Great work and thanks for posting it up WITH pics!
I know it was asked before, not sure if you answered.
Do u spray a coat of clear over the entire pf after touching up one area?
Yes I do. Otherwise I would have lots of different layers that would turn into humps everywhere. With the white since it was everywhere on the playfield that was all I could do before spraying a coat of clear. With the blue I did that now I can spray some light grey areas that aren't close of adjacent to it and then clear.
Just a few spots then prep for the decals.
I glanced at your game ownership history and see you currently own two games and have owned three previously. If that is accurate relative to your game ownership, the work you are doing on this HS and the skillset/quality you are bringing to this hobby will take you far.
I've owned over 200 games and you are enhancing your game in ways I may never be able to accomplish.
Well done.
Mike O.
Yeah. 5 machines. Started owning them about a year and a half ago. Restored 3 of the 5. I only have room for two at a time so one is usually playable while one is torn into pieces for a restoration.
I think it's probably a little under realized how much time actually went into laying, and skillfully cutting the frisket to shape around everything. How do those stencils look? I decided to pass once again on these, I passed them up in 2009.
It's just a little airbrush with acrylics. Not a huge ventilation issue. I clearcoat in my kitchen/screened deck. Fans and open windows/doors.
I've got 75 hours into this already. Just doing the light grey today took me about 3.5 hours and there wasn't many of those areas.
Stencils look good as far as I can tell. Until I pull them apart to lay I won't know really.
How did you do the ball-guides?
When you can finally leave your house, sometime you should swing by and see my Taxi. When my CPR playfield comes in, I basically want to overhaul Taxi like you did with this game, minus the playfield painting
Gladly rich. I love taxi
For the ball guides I sand them using various grits. The deeper the ball trail the lower the grit. Down to 220 on the worst ones. Then keep stepping it up until I hit about 1000 grit. That looked about right to me. No sense in polishing them to a shine. Couple games and they would have a trail on it again a d probably be more noticeable with the rest of it all shiny.
Figured I would make a paint list for what I used for anyone interested before I put my paints away.
Keep in mind all greys are not direct matches. They are very close but not yellowed and bring it back to its original look.
White and black are just the standards
Dark Grey- Apple Barrel-20580 Pewter Grey
Medium Grey-Ceramcoat-02543 Rain Grey
Light Grey-Apple Barrel- 20526 Country Grey
Blue-Ceramcoat-02589 Mediterranean
Dark Green-Folk Art-927 Old Ivy
Yellow-Ceramcoat-02412 Empire Gold
Bright Red-Americana-DA199 Primary Red
Light red-JoAnn Essentials-72007 Real Red
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