The switch is the only thing that "drops" the coil to low power on System 11 machines. It really is just used to short out half of the windings on the coil and make it stronger by removing half of the resistance. Thus if half of the coil is shorted for too long a period of time (seconds) then the coil gets hot, melts, and blows the fuse. EOS switches MUST be wired in for any game that doesn't have Fliptronic boards or equivalent new technology, and even then you should still wire them in.

You also are working on a Early system 11 machine that originally had series wound flipper coils, and would have been wired (and shown in the manual) to wire up the coils and EOS switch for said series coils. It does look like you put a series coil back in, but check your wiring closely....

See VID's post on series to parallel flpiper coils: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/2#post-453690

You should also follow the beginning of the same thread that shows how to make flippers feel tight and work correctly: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

I would recommend changing the flippers to parallel coils and wiring appropriately.

Watching your video, it seems that your flipper is binding on something, and not always opening the eos switch. It looks like the flipper cranks are shot and have been bent out of shape. Just rebuild the assembly and make it work as it should, and your flipper problems will go away.