(Topic ID: 44294)

High Speed EOS continuity

By kporter946286

11 years ago


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  • 15 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by mof
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 11 years ago

My high speed has blown the q43 twice in the last 3-4 weeks. I was testing for shorts last night on that column wire to see if GI or other high power was getting into the line and noticed that the EOS, when tested, shows continuity whether opened or closed, on all three flippers. None of my other system 11 games do this, they all break continuity when opened as they should. I would assume that something is wrong and that the high speed's EOS switch when being tested should break continuity when opened, correct? High Speed remember has the old 1 diode coil unlike newer 2 diode flipper coils on newer games. Any thoughts?

#2 11 years ago

On the serial-wound coils (single diode), the EOS is in parallel with the hold coil. So even though the EOS is open, you may still measure continuity across the hold coil, as it is a fairly low impedence. It depends somewhat on your measuring device whether it declares continuity or not.
If you're using a multimeter, check impedence instead. With the EOS closed, it should measure approx 0 impedence, and with the EOS open it should measure the impedence of the hold coil (approx 20-25 ohms, if I recall correctly).
Edit: More like 160 ohms for the hold coil.

#3 11 years ago

The fiberboard spacers between the blades. Anything shorting them like flux or something ?

LTG : )

#4 11 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

The fiberboard spacers between the blades. Anything shorting them like flux or something ?
LTG : )

I ran continuity all over both switches for both coils and I am not getting any continuity, as that was my first thought as well, that's when I noticed that continuity being constant with the EOS open or closed. That's when I tested my 3 other System 11's EOS's and they all "break" when EOS is opened. Ill prob. end up tearing them apart, cleaning them and putting them back together, but I just don't want to blow that q43, as it looks like it was replaced before I got the game and I've changed it 2x now.

#5 11 years ago
Quoted from yendor0:

On the serial-wound coils (single diode), the EOS is in parallel with the hold coil. So even though the EOS is open, you may still measure continuity across the hold coil, as it is a fairly low impedence. It depends somewhat on your measuring device whether it declares continuity or not.
If you're using a multimeter, check impedence instead. With the EOS closed, it should measure approx 0 impedence, and with the EOS open it should measure the impedence of the hold coil (approx 20-25 ohms, if I recall correctly).

I test ohms and get back to you....

#6 11 years ago
Quoted from yendor0:

On the serial-wound coils (single diode), the EOS is in parallel with the hold coil. So even though the EOS is open, you may still measure continuity across the hold coil, as it is a fairly low impedence. It depends somewhat on your measuring device whether it declares continuity or not.
If you're using a multimeter, check impedence instead. With the EOS closed, it should measure approx 0 impedence, and with the EOS open it should measure the impedence of the hold coil (approx 20-25 ohms, if I recall correctly).

Okay, testing the lugs for Ohms while the game was off, i was getting a 1.5 reading with the EOS closed and then when opened it read 76 ohms

#7 11 years ago

The right flipper was ready 25 ohms closed and 76 ohms opened

#8 11 years ago

1.5 ohms (closed) / 76 ohms (open) tells me that the EOS is working as it should.
I looked up the hold impedence for the FL-23-600 coil...it's listed as 160 Ohms. So it seems a bit odd that you're reading about half of that, as though another hold coil is in parallel. I'll measure to see what reading I get. But it shouldn't be a problem either way.

The right side readings don't seem correct...I'm guessing that your EOS contacts are dirty or not contacting properly to close the circuit.

You'll probably want to clean your EOS switches to get the closed impedence a bit lower on both sides (making your flippers a bit more powerful). Even at 1.5 ohms, you're losing about a quarter of your power to dissipation in the EOS contacts.

#9 11 years ago

I was testing the lugs on the EOS not the coil, is that where you wanted the readings?

#10 11 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

I was testing the lugs on the EOS not the coil, is that where you wanted the readings?

Yes, right. So when the EOS switch is closed, it ought to read close to zero ohms. If you squeeze the switch contacts together with your finger as you take the measurement, you'll probably get a much lower number.
If cleaning alone doesn't help with the reading, you can try adjusting the longer of the EOS blades so that it pushes up against the shorter blade with a bit more pressure.

#11 11 years ago

I just tested the 3rd flipper and that one is reading 79 ohms when closed, then when I open it, it stays at 79 ohms? I cleaned all the contacts. I did notice that the left flipper had a weird "engine reeving/lane change" switch that was extra long and the flipper was a bit loose and I noticed that when the flipper full extended it would/could touch the "engine reeving/lane change" switch which could have been causing my short. I clipped the end off of that switch and tightened the flipper bat so there is no play in that flipper anymore.

MY next question is, does it matter which lug on the coil is used to connected to which lug on the EOS switch. (I know you don't use the high powered side of the coil) but the left and right flippers are connected the same way but the upper flipper is connected opposite, i.e. the lower powered lug to the "long blade" lug and the middle lug connected to the "short blade" lug.

#12 11 years ago

I squeezed the EOS together and it did go down to 0 ohms. I bent it and tried a to adjust it, it looks like its closed but unless I squeeze it still reads 70+ ohms. Must just need replaced.

#13 11 years ago

I bet that is the source of your short. The left lane change switch is #37, which is driven by Q43.

I measured both an un-installed coil and an installed coil, and the hold coil resistance was right around 75 ohms in each case, so your measurements with the EOS open are good in each case. With the EOS closed, you shouldn't measure anything more than about 1 ohm. If it's more than that, it is an indication that your EOS switch contacts are not making good contact (either dirty, or not coming together with enough force). And your flippers will seem sluggish as a result.

And no, it doesn't matter the order in which the EOS switch lugs are used...you can swap the wires on the EOS lugs and you'll have the exact same circuit.

#14 11 years ago

That's good to know for future reference too. I know not to trust my visual inspection on the EOS switches, but from now on I will always test. Typically its the first thing i swap out when I get a new game so I never have issues, in this case the guy I bought it off of supposedly rebuilt all three flippers , but it looks like he did a crappy job and didn't change all the parts.

1 year later
#15 9 years ago

So did you ever solve this? I just did a playfield swap and my Q43 is blowing when I play...
-mof

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