Documenting a High Speed playfield swap with a new CPR playfield. It’s an unknown quality level but looks like what their golds would be. It’s a 100% working game that is in need of a refresh. It will get new ramp (black as they had it before Freeplay’s clear versions), plastics, sleeves and anything else we find along the way. We already know the flipper bats have two broken supports and the ball trough short runway has a broken tab.

This is my first HS swap so will take a bit more time and spend some more time showing my steps along the way. I may reach out to mof for some help as he has a fantastic thread from a few years back. Welcome any gotchas or things to be concerned about. Please give a yell if you see something off with how it goes together or what may be missing.

Cool token found inside. Few pics and of the top and bottom areas that will need removed to get on rotisserie.

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Top side pics 1:

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Top side pics 2:

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Top side pics 3:

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Top side pics 4:

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Top side pics 5:

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Top side pics 6:

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Top side pics 7 (last) and pic of the old original but unbroken flipper bat and the two newer ones already cracked.

Anyone have other color bats they used they can share pics of?

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Ha! I'm sure with over 17,000 you'll get one at some point!

We need to get you a star or something saying you're one of my biggest fans.

Underside pics 1:

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Underside pics 2:

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Underside pics 3:

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Underside pics 4 (last):

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This is what's left. A bare old and a bare new. Quite a difference between the two. Parts are tumbling and teardown of mechs/ultrasonic'ing in progress.

LED's will be reused as they've already done them with exception to a few random ones here and there that were incandescent. Warming resisters will be removed and LED's for all flashers where they're not already.

I found that the wire nut in the left rear plastic under the ramp was supposed to be an 89 bulb holder so I'll be sure to get the correct bulb holder and install. Pic courtesy of PinMonk on Playfield Teardown site.

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You've done cabinet work which I find a major PITA. You'd have no problem doing a swap with all the shops you've done. Just more apart at once.

Glad I could help and may need your help as well!

The problem with the online thing is it takes more time. I’m doing this after my day job by myself and don’t have time to sort, upload, etc. It’s too much effort. If I had a website maybe but then again I don’t do enough volume nor care to maintain.

If you have a place you’d like me to share them to, I’ll upload what I can for you.

Pop bumper studs are in after prepping with kruzman clear kit he sells to prep the clear coat. Using the black twist shank as they’re my preferred. The holes are a bit small and need opened up with a 9/64” drill bit.

They have new targets so put them in for now. The star rollovers are all cleaned up with little effort. They work perfectly and not stuck. That’s a shock!!

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Parts are slowly getting ready. Some really come out great like this one.

Wire forms are all installed.

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Example of how I install wire forms:

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All plastic and metal posts are regrained, cleaned and installed. New red plastic posts.

Looking to add some Titan_Pinball rubbers and playing with colors. Not sure about the slings. I have some red in right size and they look ok. Wondering if clear, black or white may be better. The yellow ones I put on look a bit out of place too. Post colors are tests too.

Anyone done this title with some color? Think green rings at the pop bumpers with all the trees.

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Happy Thanksgiving!

Mechanisms part 1.

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Mechanisms part 2: the diverter assembly.

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Replacing both hinge brackets. The kickback plunger is looking kinda sketchy and one coil is wrong so will be replacing them all.

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It’s not mine but I believe they got the rollovers separately as well. Hopefully they’ll chime in.

Good advice EJS. Already done on this but great advice for others before doing much populating.

The spinners are back on with new labels.

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I lost my brother on Saturday so I want to recognize him here. He was a great father and husband that was hoping to fly him out here from San Diego over Christmas. He will be missed. We were discussing beers and was hoping to share these with him.

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Ramp torn down for cleaning and replacement.

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Flipper assemblies are torn down. They have new plates so going to use them with the mix/match of old ones. One coil is newer. The other two looked ok until I got the wrappers off. The coil wire wraps look like they got pretty hot. I’m ordering two new ones.

Assemblies are partially assembled.

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I’m going a bit backwards with the bottom side mostly empty but waiting for ground braid, lamps and tabs to come so not much I can do with the bottom until than.

I’m using a combo of new blue and red flasher domes for the four on the game. I’m not riveting but using SEMS hardware as there’s no interference and easier to swap out down the road.

I also chose to not use the metal stand-off posts. I’m using a while plastic spool like newer titles used. Looks cleaner and more light can get through. I have the parts to do them all. I count ten of those metal spacers. Much easier than trying to drill them out and lining them up.

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They were kind enough to send me a spare short runway for the ball trough so that’s all together. The other parts cleaned up nice.

Some more pics of some of the 3-D/multilevel plastic assemblies. I’m using clear plastic mini posts instead of the upside down bells and using orange rings so they resemble a traffic cone. The bells look pretty ugly.

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Flipper bats: Go with white or black? Red May work too but there’s already so much red.

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The saucer eject has a broken tab so since the red and translucent red are unavailable I think the clear will look nice back lit with a red led.

I had 5 GI bulb inserts and a few feet of ground braid so got something done. The sling mechs and flipper assemblies are mounted too.

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Black flipper bats it is!

The ramp parts are riveted on. I need to add the tumbled parts on when they’re done tumbling and it will be ready.

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I’m getting most of the mechs on. No dimples on any of them so far. This is fine so it can be measured against the old and adjusted to fit/operate the best. It takes some work to get them sorted this way but much preferred. If there’s dimples and they’re close but you need to tweak a 1/16” it makes it rough.

Not sure if this was a one off with lack of dimples (at least for mechs) or the run was like this.

Still waiting on lamp sockets and a few other parts. Harnesses were ultrasonic’d and drying. They should be able to go on soon after the ground braid.

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I just found something on Amazon and it’s been fine but only use it for dimples on the bottom side only.

Ramp is wrapped up.

More parts today! The hinge pivot brackets came and they’re slightly different. Confirmed that they will work fine. The diameter is slightly larger on the new ones but the pics show it won’t matter.

Well more dimples off but again no big deal. After some studying the simplest it’s finally apparent what happened. Basically none line up. In fact not even in the same hemisphere. Apparently it like they may have been done 180 degrees off. So the back left is dimples on the front right.

Measured 4 times and drilled 5. Just kidding! Measured from the front of the old and transferred to the new.

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The pop bumper are finally done on the top side. Using Zitt clear bodies and red, yellow and green skirts to follow the traffic light. The clear ones will be nice to get a bit more light in the dark pop bumper area.

I’m using the flat tin lamp holder versions as there’s decent access and work best with the ground braid.

Kickback mech is in with the new armature that came in today. The holes were way off but I didn’t even refer to them. Put the apron on and lined it up with the hole for it.

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Mechs all in (short of ball feeder waiting for part). Lamp holder came in so stapled everything in.

Lamp harness laid in place.

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This Kendal unit which I believe is 6l but I’d recommend going bigger if you can. This works fine but is tight for some things.

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Thank you! The front is dimpled and has been pretty accurate thankfully. The back is dimpled but all wrong. It takes a bit more time but is usually easier in the long run having things fit/work best. Most times dimples even on near perfectly placed are still not great.

The clear saucer plastic showed and like the way it looks. I’ll light it up with the red flex to GI.

The switch harness was laid in and fitted a few. There’s a metal spacers for the saucer switch so make sure you put that back in.

The two of the three spinner switches that I got in took some time lining up right so they spin free and are centered.

Note: All the yellow tubing will be getting new clear tubing.

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Along with the other parts, the black flipper bats are in. Waiting for Cliffy’s new flipper return frames and saucer protector to come before a final adjustment of bats.

The two new flipper coils got new labels. These new flipper caps came from Marco and thankfully they’re not super short!

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Supervisor approved the work so far. She was yawning quite a bit so never sure what to think in this formal pose.

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The Titans came in and installed. I used gray for the rear and only installed one temporarily to show. Will need to install these last once off rotisserie when the diverter is installed.

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It doesn’t look like much was done but this took a few hours. New pop spoons, switches all in other than pops, 6 targets soldered, and one catapult switch tubing replaced.

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The boss came down and was contemplating how to get treats from the hoomans. Bit worried how much she eyed up the air stapler.

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It was missing one hole for the left wireform so broke out kruzman kit to prep it.

Showing some new tubing and diodes.

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Just about all the bottom side of soldering is done. It took me a solid 8 hours and some was done last night. I’ll mess with the flipper wiring later. I usually pick a spot and work around the playfield. It takes more time here with no dimples so comparing and measuring against the old. I try and find a nice looking fit as long as it’s functional. Sometimes the factory work was sloppy.

Lots of small resistor boards too. I’ll be clipping the warming resistors when it’s close to finished as we’re using LED’s.

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Now that the top side switches and flash lamps are soldered in I’m installing the rest of the plastics.

As mentioned earlier, I’m using new plastic spools instead of the metal posts.

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Thanks. It should be this week for testing!

For anyone that likes to see tools, I picked one of these wire strippers up a few months ago. So much faster to strip wires. Someone on here recommended them and wish I knew who it was. But they work great. Can’t believe it took me so long to get them.

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Soldering is about wrapped up so started testing of GI.

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I fitted the ramp after adding some Mylar. Will need to see in gameplay where to put some at the wireform return to flipper areas.

I realized my one “traffic cone” won’t work on the left wireform for obvious reasons. Doh! Will come up with something.

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That’s a good idea. I’m trying to find something pinball that can be put in place without modifying like it came that way from the factory. Original thought was a small black post with screw machine screw and nut like some other titles but your idea would be clean and simple.

The plastic mini post cutting down wouldn’t work as the correct screw to attach was too long. So I went with the plastic black spacer and screw. It blends in well.

The traffic light is nice other than a crack so it’s setting up with some epoxy.

Inserts are all tested and working!

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The last odds and ends were wrapped up today and the playfield is off the rotisserie. Good news that Cliffy has shipped out the flipper return lanes and hideout protector. I also cleaned up the lockdown receiver. It had some rust so I sprayed it with Steel It stainless steel paint a friend gave me. It looks good and seems to hold up. I also got them a Titan lockdown receiver decal to finish it off. Also got them a 1 ball for their Bad Cats too.

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Lloyd Christmas was perfect person for this time of the year!

The repair on the traffic light worked out well.

I need to get to the cabinet next before putting the playfield in. The head needed to come off to get the machine to me so had some reconnections to make.

Refurbed lockdown receiver with the Titan decal. Protective film still on for now...

I swapped out their shooter when I was replacing with a new Titan tip when I saw the mushrooming. I had a few good used spares.

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The Eagle has landed. Playfield is in the cabinet. I have some details to button up before testing but it went in with no issues and lines up great.

Titan lockdown receiver decal looks great!

The repaired traffic light is now installed.

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Thanks to the help from GRUMPY on the HS club, he verified two connections on the MPU board I wasn’t sure of.

We have power and everything is working with lamps, switches and solenoids other than the left two flash lamps are dim and one insert at left return lane isn’t working. I didn’t have much time to dig in further other than verify the bulb isn’t the issue.

Really happy to see all the solenoids working. The game was missing the knocker so I have one coming to make it whole.

The credit LED display was missing a segment but reseating the ole ribbon cable fixed that. I have a good used one that looks much newer so will pop that in to finish it off.

Yes the flipper bat is loose as Cliffy has new return lanes coming. The flipper isn’t being held up.

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Some updates:

There were two inserts out. The left inlane and 2X. They were getting voltage so it was an easy fix with new lamp sockets.

Left playfield flashers: they needed wires switched on both because LED.

Good used ribbon cable fixed the missing segment from credit display.

So we’re 3 for 3 and Cliffys should be to me tomorrow so I can wrap the top side up and move to tidying the wiring.

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Regarding the Telesis token, I found this online about the Amusement park in Florida. https://www.sun-sentinel.com/news/fl-xpm-1992-10-15-9201270427-story.html

-- TELESIS, 6900 Okeechobee Blvd., West Palm Beach, one mile west of Florida's Turnpike's Okeechobee exit. Phone: 687-2055 (recording) 687-1789. Hours: Monday to Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday 4 p.m. to midnight, Saturday 10 a.m. to midnight and Sunday 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Attractions: 150 games, video games, pinball games, prize games and carnival rides such as the Tilt-a-Whirl and The Mighty Scrambler. Cost: One or more 25-cent tokens. Four tokens cost $1, 20 tokens $5, 90 tokens $20.

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The Cliffy’s have arrived. Saucer kick out is pretty easy. Three screws and sandwiches under the ball stop and has adhesive for the forward side.

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Right return lane is pretty cut and dry. The left side was not drilled for the upper end. Not sure if it was this playfield or all CPR’s but no biggie. Same process as before. Lined up the frame and marked, drilled, sealed with kruzman kit and cinched it down. I used 1/2” black plastic spacer instead of the metal bells and messing with them. Then blend in just fine and look like they belong.

Lined up the flipper bats and cinched them down.

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Here's the pop bumper with a standard cool white LED. Going to try out some CT Afterburners I have to get a little more light going. With these style caps, things are pretty dark with just a SMD.

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Using the Afterburners is a no brainer. From dark to light. I replaced a few dimmer inserts with some Comet sunlights too.

Game plays amazing. Super fast and I’m not even leveled. Tweaked the ball eject and some switches and have it working well. Next up will be leveling and getting some gameplay to make sure the shooter lane is hitting the ramp reliably. It needs some adjustment.

After that will be Inkochnito board install. New legs plates and a missing knocker are on the menu when they arrive.

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The Inkochnito board went it easy and works fine. What a nicely made piece and a good idea to have if you have a system 11/A.

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