(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago

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  • 374 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by STLOkie
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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (4 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (2 years ago)

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#4097 9 months ago

After I installed LED flashers they stayed on until I just cut one side of the 330 ohm. (Warming resistor) Hope this helps or check out the link below. http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/flasher-problemquestion-system-11. I would take Grumpy's advise, he knows HS.

2 months later
#4497 6 months ago

Looking for some help! During game play only the Upper Jet Bumper works. During test mode only the Upper and Lower Jet Bumpers work. Any advise?

#4499 6 months ago

Thanks Grumpy, I will try and check it out tomorrow after work.

3 months later
#4666 3 months ago

Look up “DumbAss” on the Post by Pinsiders. Then look for topic “Dumbass test and reproduction PCBs” I bought one of his reproduction boards for my High Speed and it sounds just like the original Williams. The board is red in color but works great. I did not buy the Rottendog due to feedbacks that the sound was off. Hope this helps.

3 weeks later
#4703 89 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So the upper jet bumper is fine and since the lower left jet bumper works in test but not during a game, most likely an activation switch issue. The switch is out of adjustment or has a broken wire. Now for the right jet bumper not working in test or game play, there maybe a board problem, a switch problem, a broken power wire/ground wire problem, a bad coil and or a combination of these issues. You can start by briefly grounding the metal tab of Q-73 transistor with a jumper wire to see if the coil fires. If it does fire then you know the power/ground wires and the coil are good. Then you will need to look for a board problem. let us know what you find.

Sorry for taking so long, but it’s been very busy over here in my world. 3 months ago I mentioned that two jet bumpers were not working. I had bought and installed a special solenoid fuse board to protect my main board. I found that one of the fuses blew out on the solenoid fuse board and this caused two jet bumpers not to work. The fuse that blew was on the solenoid board and it’s 2.5A. I inspected all fuses on my HS and found that the main power supply board F2 fuse was a 4A and not the 2.5A that is required per specifications. I did a continuity test to see if I had a short (TIP102s in the special solenoid section Q69/Q71/Q73/Q75/Q77/Q79) and all is good. Funny thing is the game works great without the solenoid board installed, but I’m afraid that I have a short somewhere on my HS and I don’t want to see it go up in flames. Any suggestions on where I should look? Grumpy said that a switch may be out of adjustment, but I’m not sure what switch he is talking about. I’m Tupid!

#4705 89 days ago

Added some photos of these switched but I think they look good? Any help or suggestions? Better photos or just sell it as is!

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#4710 89 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the activation switch marked in red. They need to have a min. 1/16 inch gap. How about a pic of the solenoid fuse board.
[quoted image]

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#4711 89 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

On the first photo it looks to like somebody used high current contacts to rebuild the switch, or EOS switches? I guess this will work for a while in a 5 volt situation. Although the blades may be too stiff for a pop bumper skirt to activate it. If it were my game I would replace them all with new one from Pinball Life, part# SW-11A-35. $10.95 each or $15.95 each with resistor, cap and diode pre-installed.

I had work done on this switch about 5 years ago and i remembered that the coil burned up and I replaced it in 2016. I’m assuming the $15.95 with the resistor is my best bet?

#4716 89 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Adds and individual fuse for each special solenoid coil.
Was this board made by DumbAss ?

Yes it was.

#4719 89 days ago

I can do that later tonight when I get home from work. Thanks to both of you for the help. FYI I did purchase a CPU reproduction board from Dumbass and both the new board and old board would fail ( jet bumpers) after about 15 to 30 minutes of play time.

#4720 88 days ago

Wow, I don’t remember it looking so bad on the back?

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#4723 84 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Could someone tell me what kind of flashers are used under the two blue hotdog inserts? Want to replace mine with blue bulbs to pop the color a little.

I installed the blue 89 flat flex 8 from Cointaker. This allows you to adjust the location of them inside your blue hotdog.

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#4734 80 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the activation switch marked in red. They need to have a min. 1/16 inch gap. How about a pic of the solenoid fuse board.
[quoted image]

Question? My switches came in and both top and bottom contacts are touching on all three of them. Should all contacts be a minimum of 1/16 inch gap?

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#4736 80 days ago

Thanks for the info Grumpy. I will tackle this project over the weekend.

#4737 77 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Switches like this need to have there mounting screws installed either to the mounting bracket or directly to the play field and tightened before any adjustments can be made to the contact spacing. Pop switches are unique as they have a spoon that activates the top contacts. When installing pop switches the spoon must just lightly contact the pin of the skirt and the pin must be centered in the cup of the spoon. Sometimes you have to use a thin spacer in between the switch and the switch bracket so the spoon has the correct contact to the skirt pin. Pop switches are troublesome to get adjusted correctly and are hard to reach when play field is in the cabinet. Check out vids-guide on pop rebuilds.

UPDATE: I installed my new switches today and replaced the 4A fuse on the power supply board with the recommended 2.5A fuse and everything works as it should. No more blowing fuses. Thanks GRUMPY and Lovek2k for the help. Pinball tonight! Hell yeah!

#4740 76 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

It's a beautiful thing when you fix a machine yourself!

Yes it is! But what’s ever better is when you kick your sons ass at pinball.

FYI he is 32 years old. The old man wins!

3 weeks later
#4825 51 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

For any of you that used the CPR playfields, is the mylar the same as the original? It looks it on the website. Personally I would rather see a solid mylar overlay but I'm new to the hobby so maybe I'm wrong in saying so. I know occasionally the ball gets stuck on the edge of the mylar by the flippers if it's moving slow enough but it shakes free easily enough.

I have the Gold and it did not have mylar.

#4829 50 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Are you putting mylar on, clearcoating, or nothing?

I did nothing and it still looks new.

2 weeks later
#4871 34 days ago

Has anyone installed mirror blades on their HS? If so, where did you get them?

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