About to join, I think. Trading a working Rescue 911 for a High Speed with a locked coil. Playfield looks real nice though. Pinside shows value in their favor, but I prefer sys 11's mostly. Never played High Speed. Anyone have any thoughts on this trade? Also pins are limited in AK so hard to find specific games. Not like I can wait for the next HS.

Thanks. I am happy with it, regardless of pinside values. I realy cannot get into 911. Saw some video of HS and I think I will like it.

Just picked up my High Speed! Traded Rescue 911.

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I have some board work to do on my High Speed. Plugged the wire from 1j15 into either 1j13 or 1j14, I can't even remenber at this time. Now I have nothing. Was in a hurry fixing a stuck pop, now I have to dig in. Oh well

It was a while ago and I just got space to set it back up. I don't think I did, the others don't reach. I get "8" on the mpu display when the cpu check is pressed. I just get a siren repeating if I hit sound check.

When I turn it on I get a very short beep and then just lights.

4.92 and 10.45. Checking from the ground lug on the board if thats what you mean?

Ok, I will track down the 12v and start there. I don't think it was the tilt or plumb bob. It was set up and working with a stuck pop. Waa rushing when I put the board in the last time. When I got nothing, i checked and found my mistake of mixing up connectors. It has been folded up for a while after that.

I think the caps are all original. I will order the parts to rebuild the ps. I may have another board that I can swap in the meantime. I will check when I get home later today.

Will do. Thanks!

So I tested the things I could and found r13 on the PS to be way out of spec. Not sure if that is tied to 12v or not though.

Also this strange film or corrosion around some of these components. Redish. I scraped some off the bigger resistors there.

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Well I rebuilt the power supply and same thing, just a quick beep and nothing else except gi lights. I really cannot remember which plug I swapped between 1j13, 1j14. 1j15 and 1j16, but what is the next place to start looking? Thanks

Also the displays seem to be powered and I hear speaker hum.

Ok I get 4.96 at the 5v tp. Not sure which is cathode side but I am going to look that up. Left side of zr-1 reads 13v and the right side reads 6.06v. If c30 is not on the ps, then it probably was not replaced.

Sorry, I see c30 now. Now it has not been replaced.

Ok. Is it ok that I have no battery? I know my other sys 11s will at least boot.

What is the "mem protect" line on 1j14 ? I am trying to figure out what I may have done at this point. I know it was working till I swapped plugs.

Ok. Well off to bed for the night. I will have to think on this. Really stumped now.

Does anyone have a suggestion on what to check next? To recap, I hastily put the mpu in and swapped a plug, which killed my high speed. I was trying to fix a stuck pop bumper but now it just gives a quick beep and nothing more on boot. Just rebuilt the ps and voltages are good. It was a while ago and I do not remember which plug I swapped, but it was between 1j13, 1j14, 1j15 and 1j16. Any help is appreciated.

Oh man, if Grumpy is stumped, I am in trouble. Maybe I should be posting for a sys 11 board.

Yes, they are correct now. Just not sure what I can check next or what the next step should be.

Thanks! I also just got some info that I am going through to start testing a few things. I will report back when I figure a few things out. Also waiting to swap out c30 for the part.

I think I will actually start up a thread as I work through since this looks like something major. Then hopefully others can add insight.

Ok, I actually think I found something. I have this on a test bench setup and testing pin 40 of u15 for a reset signal, I get nothing. With a probe on at startup, it tries to boot. I get a 0 in the display unless i pull the probe off. Then it shows 8. I need to look into the reset circuit.

I thought replacing c30 was a precaution for the 12v. Reading now that it may be my problem. I will just wait until that comes in before going much further.

Yep. I ordered it because of that. I didn't realize why and thought it was for that 12v you had me test. Sorry, I tend to get ahead of myself.

#GRUMPY , Do you think I fried c30 with wrong connections or was that just a coincidence that it went at that time? Thanks again for the help!

Yeah, there is no connection. It's hard wired and not much room to work with.

Part to replace c30 is due to come in today. Can I bench test to see if pops are still locked on or does it need to be in game?

Dang, replaced c30 and still down. Only now if i put the probe on pin 40 u15 on startup I now get nothing. If I start it and then probe pin 40 I get a 0 in the LED display and it goes to 8 when I remove it.

Ok, I have a test setup already. Wasn't sure about testing the spec sol.
I see the reset all over the schematics but I am lost as far as under standing it yet. I will look through the repair guides to see how to check it.

It seems I have an issue in power on reset if I am reading correctly. If I ground u15 pin 40 for a sec on powerup, it boots.

Getting a questionable reading from q38. Think I will just swap it and see.

Aaaaaaand......no 2n4401 's. Looks like I can use a 2n3904 though.

I am not getting a low or high on that pin 40 of u15. Even if I ground it to boot up, no low or high.

I swapped q38 with no results. The other 2 seemed to test good. I will just swap them and see. On c30, I get a low reading on one side but nothing on the other. Not sure if that means anything. Also I have 2n3904's instead of 2n4401's.

GRUMPY I actually just noticed this. Did one of these caps leak? Also I swapped out q34 q36 and q38 but still not booting.

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I pulled all 3 and the small caps that look rough around those components. Do you think that IC is ok?

Cleaned it up some. Is cap leakage like battery leakage? Meaning will it spread? Just wondering if I need to sand and neutralize the area.

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Still not booting. I am going to start a seperate thread now. Hopefully I get this figured out. Totally stuck at the moment.

Ok. When you say neutralize, is liquid from caps acidic or basic?
Thanks

So I got it to boot. Now just need to figure out a locked on pop bumper. Strange, it tests fine in diode test mode, but all three legs read low while testing on a bench.

Thanks! Just got the pop fixed, but now no solenoid power.
Can't wait to play this. Traded a Rescue 911 for it, and it only had a locked on bumper. Still have yet to play it and never got to play this one when I was young either.

Man I am at my wits end with this. Got it working and into ball 3 it froze and won't boot. After 20 min cool down, it starts up.

Gotcha. As soon as I get home today I will try that.

Pinbot ps and same result. Couple minutes into ball 1 and it died. Does not turn back on yet.

It also turns on once again now that it is cool.

Wow. Would have never thought of that method. Once again, I owe you!
Realizing now that the speech is missing, but I am able to play now. Gonna check fuses as special solenoids are no longer activating.

Super frustrating. Got solenoids to work and the right sling locks up in the game. This is the tip102 I replaced and once again, all 3 legs read low. Not sure if replacing is the right thing to do since it failed after replacing. The predriver seems to read correctly as well.

I am totally stuck again. Swapped q71 and its predriver and tests fine on a bench. Put in the game with 1j18 and 1j19 disconnected and now it reads low on all 3 legs again. Ij19 pin 4 shows low corresponding with this. Not sure how I fried q71 with 1j19 off?? Anyone have any thoughts?

At this point I need some direction. Not sure if my board can take any more repairs in this area.

Ok! Thanks. Will do.

Here is a thread I started when I was getting stuck. If anyone wants to look, I am totally stuck again. I updated as much as I can.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-sys-11-help-needed-with-board-issues#post-5047642

Is there corrosion where the batteries are?

Getting back to fixing my HS now now that wildfires have me stuck home this weekend. I scrolled through over 20 pages and I think I found an answer but want to confirm so I don't cause damage. Was trying to fix a weak flipper and desdered 2 lugs from each to check resistance and forgot how they were wired after too much time between.
Can someone confirm that the blue/ yellow wire connects to the far lug and the blue wire goes to the middle? I took both flippers off so I can't compare to the other side even.

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Likewise, I believe this grey/ yellow goes to the outside and the blue to the middle. But would like to be certain.

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Sorry, I don't like asking for help and tried searching this one in the search area and scouring this thread. Also these coils are slightly confusing to me with only a single diode. I see earlier that some are wound in serries and some in parrallel. I was fairly sure my previous statements were correct, but the last time I was sure I was correct, I fried some things. Taking what you said, I will go forward. Was not trying to take advantage of help, but was also afraid as I have done more damage than good in the past.

I didn't mean to sound like I was uspset either. It's just this machine has me flustered and looking back through the thread I noticed how much I have been asking for help. You have helped me with many issues up till now and I don't want to seem ungrateful. Looking at my posts it seems like I ask for too much help. Your advice on this does help and will help going forward. I am frustrated that in diagnosing the match/ credit display on my pinbot and swapping parts, I seem to have fried the same display on this one. I have also done everthing I know how, and still my right flipper is weak. Eos is new and gapped, flipper moves freely by hand, and did a complete rebuild. I am ordering a new cabinet switch and will patiently work through these issues, but I admit that I am frustrated. On a good note, I reflowed some of my board work and it looks like my sounds are finally working properly. Just hope that holds up.

Thanks for the pics, I went ahead using the tips GRUMPY gave and that part is back together.

Oh, thanks. I have not done this but I am about to now.

Oh well, not the cabinet switch I guess. Now I am clueless as everything I have read says its usually the eos gap. Even if I hold pressure on the eos by hand, no change. Ohms are similar on both coils. I have read tons of weak flipper threads, but have checked everything that is usually wrong. Everyone says the coil doesn't go bad if it reads proper, but maybe I should switch the 2 coils to see if there is a difference.

Well it is not snappy like the right and upper flippers. You can hear the difference. Also like you say, it does not make the right orbit, but it is visibly slower than the left flipper.

Yeah, thats what I have read. At this point it barely has any gap when fully engaged and there seems to be good tension on it at rest as well.

Ok. Just to be clear, you do not mean with sandpaper right? I have 3000 grit if you do.

Cleaned with a windex soaked paper and took some tension off at rest to make sure they meet squarely. It is a little better and sometimes makes the orbit. Still not as snappy as the right one. I can live with it for now. Maybe I will swap parts to identify exacly the cause later but thanks to everyone for the help....once again!

Ok. They are both new which adds to my confusion.

Ok. How would I determine the equivalent power coil if I went this route? Is there any thing gained in this? Thanks!

Ok, I will test this later today. I will also use all these pointers to fix a weak flipper on my Firepower. On that, I know my weak coil is reading 2 ohms and should only be reading 1 ohm. I assume that is gonna be a coil problem.

Gotcha. I will do the jumper first on both switches and look at the coil as a last resort.

I actually enjoy doing a pf swap. It is therapeutic.

I can take a pic of mine if you don't need everything taken off. I only have the camera from my samsung s9+ , will that work?

Ok, will do. As soon as I get home today.

Pics sent. Lmk if you don't get them.

Man, I was wondering how my Gmail knew your name when I was putting in the address and just figured it out. I sent you pool sharks pics a while back for that diverter. I was so mad at myself from that. I ended up breaking a plastic getting to that game and those are impossible to find! Lol. Did you get a diverter made for that?

Is there a sticker above that board that shows which fuse does what? If not, I will send a pic later. Also, make sure to pull the fuses to check them.

Sometimes it is on the sticker on the ROM chips on the MPU. If not, you can get that info from the diagnostic menu.