(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

6 years ago

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  • 3,074 posts
  • 317 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by frisbez
  • Topic is favorited by 155 Pinsiders


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#1598 3 years ago

Hi Guys, I would like to join your club.

I played HS when it first came out in a local bar. (1986)

I looked for one for almost a year.
I bought the one I have 9/10/16.

Pop cap is broken, wire ramps are missing the attachment arms, the traffic light keeps falling off and the display driver has battery damage.
OTHERWISE, it is an awesome game and I can't stop playing it.

#1605 3 years ago

I have had my machine for about 3 weeks now. Having a blast with it.

Question #1 : Is the "Shoot Again" in the backglass supposed to light up with an extra ball ? Indicator in playfield lights and so does display but not the one in the lower RH corner of the BG. Bulb is good. (EDIT : it was a connector issue and is working now)

Question #2 : What are the small steel collars meant to hold? There is one under the LH ramp and 2 ( one on either side) next to the RH flasher above shooter lane.

Question # 3: What purpose do the long screws with collars on them that stick up above the wood on each side of the playfield ?

If it would help to answer if I posted pics LMK.


#1607 3 years ago

It makes sense and I wish I had figured that out myself.....

1 month later
#1630 3 years ago

Anyone have a nice HS pop bumper cap for sale.

I realize after some time on pinside that everyone's definition of nice is slightly different.

So, I would like to buy a cap that has no chunks missing, no bulb burn, and only small scratches.
PM me if you have one to sell.

#1632 3 years ago

Sweet !!!
I will be ordering a couple myself.

I just paid $20 for a used one with a chunk out of it.
Moral: always ask for pictures.

#1634 3 years ago

I received the ones from E-bay.
They are not hot stamped as the site would have you believe.
They are red pop bumper caps with silk screened/ printed W logo and silk screened lines around the edge.

That said, I am still ok with them because they do not have any chips in them.
If I bought the ones from PBR , they would have the hot stamped W logo but I would have to make the slide decals for the lines around the edge.

So, factoring the $ to buy and ship from PBR , then the time needed to make the decals ( the PDF file for it is available here on pinside) and
put it all together.....$25 finished for 3 seems like a good deal. I will still keep an eye out for originals but if I cannot find one I will use all 3 of these and no one will really be able to tell.

#1635 3 years ago
Quoted from Fourbyracer:

if someone wants to sell me a new one,

It likely won't match the other 2 you have.

#1638 3 years ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

no one will look that close

That is absolutely true.

Lots of times I will cut some lexan to fit under a broken plastic to support it and use some crazy glue gel to bond the broken piece on and
nobody ever notices. The plastic looks complete and is protected by the lexan below it.

In the case of the HS I am working on I am going for a very nice restoration. So, I am more picky on this one than I might be on something else.

#1640 3 years ago
Quoted from rwarren28806:

I kind of enjoy fixing and making it work more than playing.

If I were to pick one or the other I am with you.
I do love to play them but I enjoy fixing them up more.

1 month later
#1656 3 years ago

the mylar looks just like that.
Has wear and dirt underneath it.
Some heated it up and peeled it back as far as the slings and then put it back....
They melted the sling plastics and the return lane plastics also.

#1667 3 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Will copy and send the same message to you.

Please send me the necessary ramp info.

1 month later
#1702 3 years ago

Mine was drilled for a lock bar also.
I did not know decals were available.
My cabinet is not bad so I will be patching and blending with an air brush.

3 weeks later
#1715 2 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

My decals came in yesterday

Where did you order those decals from?

1 week later
#1721 2 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

The Decals are very good!

Where did the decal on the coin door come from?

2 weeks later
#1724 2 years ago
Quoted from SkillShotZ23:

Only issue left is my player 2 alphanumeric display does not work.

Did you try swapping the cable from player 1 to player 2.
The ribbon cable was the culprit on my game.

#1727 2 years ago
Quoted from SkillShotZ23:

One thing I think I do need is one of those clear ramps..

Contact: Freeplay40
on pinside.

1 month later
#1739 2 years ago
Quoted from porkbone:

it's worth a try until I can find a replacement piece

If you search ebay for "Williams high speed" there are always individual used high speed plastics for sale.
That one will pop up if it is not there now.

1 week later
#1745 2 years ago

Does anyone have good scans of the helicopter plastics or the topper ?

1 month later
#1763 2 years ago

anyone have a good scan of the helicopter plastics?

1 month later
#1812 2 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I'm looking for cabinet decals just for the backbox sides, does anyone have any to sell?

See post 1700 or 1701 in this thread

4 weeks later
#1844 2 years ago

I think either hide out would activate if you start a game and make that switch.
The game wants to return the ball at start up

1 month later
#1886 2 years ago

Check ebay. There was someone selling new replacement motors. Search Williams high speed pinball.

1 month later
#1919 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Hopefully it’s moving up

Classic Arcades makes a nice looking overlay.
I handled one at Pintastic. It seems well done but there is no way to know if the inserts will line up.

2 months later
#1972 1 year ago
Quoted from PinWiz1969:

When is the last time you changed the batteries? Could be low battery voltage.

Or the batteries are leaking onto the board.

3 weeks later
#1998 1 year ago

Helicopter plastic for shooter lane is available on eBay and at marco if anyone is looking for one .

1 week later
#2007 1 year ago

If you look at the flyer on the IPDB there is a yellow helicopter over the shooter lane.
I do not know where the other 2 go.

#2009 1 year ago

It's funny, other than the flyer I have never seen the helicopter. Does anyone know if it was even shipped with the helicopter?

2 months later
#2078 1 year ago

Classic Arcades sells all of the insert art on one sheet

5 months later
#2322 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

but it would have to be priced at around $50

Lots of people it the hobby are ridiculously cheap.
However, there are just as many not so concerned with selling their game for a profit as making it as nice as it can be.
I personally do not think $50 is overpriced unless there is another alternative.

#2327 1 year ago

Classic arcades sells pop caps.
Set of 3 $20.
They are not hot stamped as advertised but they look ok.

1 month later
#2399 1 year ago

Last night I removed the Mylar on my HS. I am not against Mylar in general if it looks good, I had a police force that had factory mylar, a beautiful playfield. It does play slower but if it is nice I leave it alone.
This was my HS. The mylar was added later. The person who put it on did not see the need to clean the playfield prior to installation. It also looked like he laid it once askew, pulled it up and reseated it.

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#2400 1 year ago

I started with the pop bumper rings. I used a heat gun to gently warm them and remove them. The first one went fabulous. Left the glue behind but it was going well. On the other 2 pops it pulled up paint in some places and left the glue in others.

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#2401 1 year ago

I decided to try freezing it. FOR THIS mylar situation, freezing was the way to go. Yes it sucks removing the glue. But it is less work than repainting the playfield. And even using heat in this case left all of the glue behind. All of the art was left on the playfield that was not already in trouble when the OP added the mylar. All of the text on the inserts survived. Competed entire mylar removal and glue removal in about 2.5 hours. ( 5 minutes to freeze and peel the mylar, the other 145 min to remove the glue).

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#2402 1 year ago

I froze it with this set-up.

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2 weeks later
#2455 1 year ago

Thats cool

1 week later
#2462 1 year ago

Has anyone done scans of the rubber ring diagrams under the plastics. I am redoing a playfield and would like to make water slide decAls.

4 weeks later
#2494 11 months ago


2 weeks later
#2501 11 months ago

Repainted all of the white areas under the plastics. Not sure if I will do the white areas in view outside of the plastics.
Doing some touch ups waiting for 70*F weather here in New England so I can lay down a 2K clear coat to hold things down.
Masking the white areas created many new areas to touch up as it pulled up more paint.

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1 month later
#2538 9 months ago

The wire getting hung up is one of those hard to find problems. Setting up the exact circumstances can be more difficult than it would seem.
I once tracked a problem on an em that would only happen with the playfield down.
Took 3 weeks to nail it down.

2 months later
#2684 6 months ago

Great, I can buy a repop play field.
I am just finishing restoring mine.
Clear coating 8/15.
No turning back now.
But if it were available BEFORE I did all this work, I would have certainly bought one.

1 week later
#2688 6 months ago
Quoted from MANTO1975:

not sure if it is meant to have 1 big rubber or 2 smaller ones,

It is one big rubber which I believe is a 5".
And yes the assembly has to be removed.
I removed the one on my game to clear coat and it did not seem that difficult, but in my case, I had the playfield out of the machine.

#2691 6 months ago

Look back in this thread. Some members were 3D printing the yellow ones. You can download the file and have it printed by internet sources or someone local.

3 weeks later
#2769 5 months ago

The CPR playfields came too late for me.
I will be putting the final clearcoat on my playfield Sunday......

#2779 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Definitely a much cheaper way to go.

I probably would have bought one anyway.
I believe the touch-up/clear coat labor is probably equal to the playfield swap labor depending on how worn the playfield actually is.

#2782 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Nice to start fresh

I absolutely agree.
Even the best restoration will have flaws and areas that will look "used" if you look closely enough.

1 month later
#2864 3 months ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

mfd is often used to denote micro farads.

I have always used the 2 interchangeable though I thought it was wrong.
Hmmph, now I know.

3 weeks later
#2916 79 days ago

OP never says whether or not the game plays. That would be a factor in pricing it.

2 weeks later
#2923 63 days ago

Could someone explain to me the purpose of Ceramic resistors.
Is it necessary to replace the ceramic resistors under the playfield with ceramic ones?
I have to replace a 5 ohm 10 watt resistor under the playfield of my HS because the leg is broken off.
It broke off as part of a clear coat operation so it did not fail.

Just want to know what my options are here.

#2924 63 days ago
Quoted from PPS:

We now have original WMS tooling High Speed Traffic Lights in Stock B-10999 in stock

You only do direct debit from a savings or checking account???
You do not accept credit cards?

#2926 63 days ago

Grumpy, thanks for the reply.

I wanted to know why ceramic? Is it due to the heat dissipation?
Can a carbon film resistor be used in its place?

#2929 61 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This makes this type ideal for this use.

Thank you.
Now I know!

#2933 61 days ago

Oddly, when I was tearing it down, I did not take a pic of the ball side of the double 5.

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#2934 61 days ago

If you look close you can see that the shafts of the ramp kicker shafts do contact the rubbers and have left a mark.

#2937 60 days ago

Pinball Resource has white rubbers for this

1 week later
#2957 47 days ago

Did you contact jeff at classic?
His are not ribbed but they are good if you have none.
He is always advertising them on ebay.
He produces them himself i believe

#2962 46 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

His are not ribbed but they are good if you have none.

What I mean is that Classic Arcades makes them with the radius lines around the outer edge but they are not embossed into the cap like the originals.
I would shoot him an email.
If there is a demand he will make more.

1 week later
#2986 35 days ago

Wow, that light is slick.

1 week later
#3039 25 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I have heard bad things about pulling mylar on system 11's.

I removed the mylar on my High Speed. It was the full mylar that I understand shipped with the machine.
Not sure when yours was applied but I knew my game had been used and THEN the mylar went on. I knew by the wear and the dirt trapped underneath. If yours was day one then it may be different. YMMV
Tried heat and it began pulling paint.
I froze it and had it off in about 20 minutes with almost no loss of paint.
Also, I did not use those silly cans of keyboard spray.

#3043 21 days ago

sataneatscheese :
Its too bad they did not put that mylar a little further to the right.
On my game, i touched up the red car, repainted the white on the cruisers and completely repainted all of the roadways before clearcoat.
If you are going to touch up, i can give you the color list i used. Every game ages differently so matching colors is hit or miss.
I removed the full mylar by freezing it. You could just run an exacto knife under a plastic and only remove the affected area. Then touch it up and cut in new mylar.

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