(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


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  • 6,217 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 233 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (6 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (4 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2219 5 years ago

Hey guys! I just became a member of the High Speed club yesterday. It's a big project here needing a stencil job, hardtop, and more. I've spent most of Sunday tediously going through the game to see what all I need to order/repair.

I've got a couple quick questions though:

Picture 1/2 - One of the switches from the ball trough is missing. Any idea what the proper switch is here and the correct connection points with wires and diode? Maybe some close up photos of the trough switches would help. I found 2 switches in the bottom of the cabinet. My guess is it's probably the broken one with bracket on the right in the photo. Is there a way to use the one on the left, since it works and I have it on hand?

Picture 3 - What is the proper plunger for the ball saver coil under the apron? This game is missing the plunger. I'm guessing it would be similar to the one I have in my Firepower with the big round end on one side and a longer nylon insert in the other end that is smaller in diameter then the metal plunger it self.

Picture 4 - Where can I get a new black trafic light case? Mine is missing 3 of the 4 snap in mounting tabs, and of course is a bit melted. I'm really not into mods and changing things. Just give me the proper case to snap in place and I'll be most happy. I see multiple vendors with the part listed and all that I found are out of stock. I'm OK with a nice used one too if it's not melted, cracked or broken.

4 - Some of the riveted round stand up targets are broken. I can probably find the proper targets at PBR or others, but what is the best way to rivet? I have a rivet gun from Menards that does gutter stuff, but it probably won't turn out too nice on a pinball

5 - I have plenty of #89 flasher bulbs on hand, but no #63 flashers at the moment, which High Speed is supposed to have. Is there really THAT big of a difference in the brightness if I use the 89's in place of the 63's? As I understand it, they will probably be a little bit dimmer but that's it, correct? Just looking for something to toss in for testing until I get around to ordering 63's.

Hoping to get this thing back to fully functional while I'm waiting on that High Speed hard top......

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#2220 5 years ago

Got the plunger figured out. Part number A-6306-2 Plunger assembly, and is available at Marco and probably others.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-6306-2

#2221 5 years ago

Got a part number for the missing ball trough sub microswitch, 5647-09933-00 and found them in stock. It would really be helpful to have a photo of how they are wired in correctly. Thanks in advance! The switch only has 2 terminals and it looks like a yellow wire should be connected to one terminal and a diode to the other.

#2223 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The correct switch is #5647-09933-00. The wires are in the first pic, white/yellow and the yellow jumper wire. They connect to the COM and the NO contacts of the switch. Yes you can use the switch in pic #2 if you can mount it and adjust is correctly.

Nobody has these any more. you can carefully remove the red and green lenses and reverse them and the install the cover upside down with hot glue to hold in place so not to see the melted hole.

You can buy the complete switch and target from PBR.

Yes you can use #89 bulbs and they will last for many years. #63 bulbs will only last 6 months at best. Hardly any difference in brightness.

Great idea on the traffic light housing! I'm going to give that a try. Hopefully its not melted too much and I can't get the lenses out.

Thanks for the other great info as well. I can probably compare the com/no contacts and how they are wired on the other 2 switches to get this one set up properly as well.

89's it is then!

#2225 5 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Here's a pic of what mine looked like
[quoted image]

Perfect! Thanks!

Does anyone have an original non-melted/cracked traffic light box they would be willing to ship to Terry at Pinball Life for 3d printing? I just e-mailed him yesterday about this as well and he's willing to give it a go and see what happens. Mine is partially melted, so it's a no go on mine.

Thanks all!

#2227 5 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

I have one that’s not melted but some of the tabs are broken off. If he could make a good replica I’d be happy to send mine. I’ve been trying to track down an nos one for a long time with no luck.

I'll let him know and get back to you

#2231 5 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

If Terry can’t use Bellogios let me know . Found my extra one and it appears to have all the tabs. I moved and modded my traffic light ...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This is awesome. I will let him know and see what he comes back with tomorrow. Maybe you can e-mail him too and let him know you have an nos one in good shape to use for the 3d model?

This could be huge to have that available, basically forever.

I hope this all works out.

Thanks guys!

#2233 5 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Ok . Bought this years ago but can’t remember from who. Might have been Bay Area amusements. Would be nice if Terry could make a stock for people needing them. Without all the tabs it tends to fall off when mounted in the normal position.

Everyone is sold out that I could find, Marco, Bay Area, and a few other majors. I spent a good bit of time searching for a source last night with no luck.

#2237 5 years ago

I saw that too, not into it myself. Id like something more original.

Hopefully this all works out good!

#2243 5 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Terry responded and I will mail the traffic light to Pinball Life tomorrow.

This is awesome. I hope it's a part they are able to recreate. I have a feeling this could help out quite a few people! Thanks again for offering up yours for the trial.

#2246 5 years ago

Just learned that Rottendog will soon be releasing a new MPU that will cover ALL system 11s. This is great news! I'm sure others know already... but for those who don't.....

#2261 5 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Terry from Pinball life sent me an update. The stoplight is not looking like a good candidate for the type of 3D printer they have access to. I’ll post if I hear anything further.

Well, it was worth a shot! The search continues.

1 week later
#2301 5 years ago
Quoted from the_one:

I'm inda club as well .
But my playfield does not have any damage, fresh clearcoat on it. [quoted image]

I really need to invest in some proper spray equipment and get some of my games clear coated. That would be amazing to play on!

#2307 5 years ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Tried searching the posts and can't find the answer. Anyone know what I need to replace for that left outlane kick back plunger? Mine is original and very worn down and at time will kick the ball out very well.

I just looked for one of these myself, since the High Speed I bought was missing it all together. It is part number A-6306-2. Page 39 of the game manual shows the break down and all part numbers.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-6306-2

#2311 5 years ago
Quoted from Completist:

After changing batteries you have to go back in and scroll though adjustments to reset everything. Free Play will need to be set again. After this if it still happens you are not getting voltage to the RAM and losing settings again.

Isn't there a diode that affects this? Or was that on older system 4-6 type stuff? I want to say I had a Flash with this issue and it ended up being a 1n4004 or so diode on the mpu that wasn't letting voltage through?

#2321 5 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Terry from Pinball Life has informed me that the stoplight 3D printer project is not cost effective. He is returning my original stop light that was used as a sample.

I just stopped by and spoke briefly with Terry today and picked up the one example that was made. It looks great and fits perfect, but it would have to be priced at around $50 to make cents, so there is probably not going to be any demand for that part at that price to make it worth while. It was also clear coated after it was made. Possibly in the future as the 3d printing industry evolves and costs come down......?

MJW Thanks so much for volunteering up your traffic light for an example to give all of this a try. It is much appreciated!

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#2326 5 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

Now to find you a bumper cap......

Hah yeah shes a little beat up. Waiting on that hardtop

Did you miss the painted on stop light on the playfield next to it? Lol

4 weeks later
#2357 5 years ago

Just got the brand new Rottendog MPU9211 today! My High Speed project has been sitting for a few months because the original mpu that came in it had a bit of acid damage like usual. This is the new board that covers all games from system 9-11 including things like High Speed. I just installed it this afternoon. All I ordered was the "base" board so I swapped over my game/sound roms and 6808's. You can order it with the 6808's and game/sound roms already in place if you need to as well.

High Speed is now up and running!

Although, I did blow a transistor for the eject hole already....

Ordered up some of those sensitive FQP13N10L transistors.... should be back in business soon.

Got it all set up with new pinscore displays as well.

Next step: hardtop and shop out

#2362 5 years ago
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:

Hey guys, hope you can help but I have a high speed pin and a problem, as you can see from the pic the GI on the left side of the machine are out, I'm not new to pinball but new to fixing them, does anyone have any suggestions on how I can begin to trouble shoot this problem?
Thanks for your help.[quoted image]

Alex, I'll take "broken wire between the bulbs some where that would cut off anything in line after it".

#2386 5 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Thanks for all the advice!
I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?
Since this will be my first table, I’m inclined to leave it. Plan is to fix up some of the minor cosmetics (e.g.: broken beacon light), enjoy it for a while, then sell/trade for the next.

If it gets messy, pick up a hardtop for it when those come out this year.

#2409 5 years ago

Not getting the burn out sound when I launch the ball. Every now and then it does, but most of the time not. Cleaned and adjusted the switch, no change. Diode possibly?

5 months later
#2634 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Has anyone ordered one of these? I’m curious if it’s molded or printed and painted.

These are 3d printed. Another member sent theirs to Terry for me, since mine was broken, to do a trial run. Now they are listed on the site for all.

5 months later
#2942 4 years ago
Quoted from mkecasey:

I saw a post a few months back about Pinball Life not seeing the traffic light assembly as a realistic product. Just wanted to raise my hand and say that I'd be another customer to buy one of those. I'm only one more person but if it helps show the demand, I figured I'd let you know.

These were made and you can purchase them here:

https://www.pinballlife.com/high-speed-traffic-light-housing.html

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