(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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  • 2,919 posts
  • 310 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by MrExtrm
  • Topic is favorited by 152 Pinsiders

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#2649 5 months ago

I just picked up a #high Speed pin the other day. Overall it is in decent shape. Just been sitting for some years. Did the Nvram mod on the CPU. Need to rebuild the flippers and do a thorough cleaning. Also will need to buy one of those stoplights mentioned earlier.

One thing that appears to be very scarce are the 7 digit Alpha-Numberic displays. One of my displays is not working. another Pinsider pointed me to one on eBay however it has a rather large nipple on the back side and am afraid that I will have to modify the board to install it and there may be traces on the board.

Does anyone know of any sources for these Alpha-Numberic display tubes?

Thanks

#2651 5 months ago
Quoted from AMBoggs:

TNT Amusements has some seven digit displays that were passable for sale a while back, wouldn’t hurt to email them and see if they have any. Might have an burn on them or some other imperfections but it would work.
Alternatively, order a new led set from XPin. Expensive up front, but then you can play the game and in the mean time look for a replacement.

Thanks, I will try TNT. I still have some work to do on the pin. Not in a super rush but am excited to get her up to running while I do touch ups.

#2653 5 months ago

Thanks for the response Todd. Gonna keep looking for the Alpha-Numberic displays. They seem to turn up now and then when someone converts to LED displays.

#2657 4 months ago

I am going through my High Speed I picked up last week. The game was missing a knocker in the head cabinet (wires still there so easy to bring back to original). I just purchased a new knocker however there is no diode on the coil. I assume there should be one however I could not find the coil in the schematics in the instruction manual. Could someone verify that the knocker coil has a diode. Thanks much.

And if you can locate the knocker coil in the schematics please point me to the page. I found the Police Light Motor diagram and thought this would be the logical location for the schematic, but not there.

#2659 4 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

A early system 11 game like this will always have a diode on the coils. There should be a red and a brown/violet wire for this coil. The red wire is the power wire and should go to the silver band of the diode.[quoted image]

Thanks grumpy, was pretty sure it would need one. Wanted to make sure. And Cathode to red wires.

1 month later
#2694 3 months ago

You are in luck, I just replaced my rubbers on my High Speed and in the process of rebuilding. The size is 5" (part # 23-63-10) http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php

Here are a couple pics

IMG_3036 (resized).jpgIMG_3037 (resized).JPG
#2697 3 months ago

This place is such a great resource for sure. Found another thread on this very topic from a year ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/changing-rear-high-speed-5-rubbers

1 week later
#2703 3 months ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Sorry, I don't like asking for help and tried searching this one in the search area and scouring this thread. Also these coils are slightly confusing to me with only a single diode. I see earlier that some are wound in serries and some in parrallel. I was fairly sure my previous statements were correct, but the last time I was sure I was correct, I fried some things. Taking what you said, I will go forward. Was not trying to take advantage of help, but was also afraid as I have done more damage than good in the past.

Always good to try to work through things and try to solve with schematics and such. (I always take pics when removing anything).

Here are 2 pics from my High Speed

IMG_3066 (resized).JPGIMG_3069 (resized).JPG
#2707 3 months ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I didn't mean to sound like I was uspset either. It's just this machine has me flustered and looking back through the thread I noticed how much I have been asking for help. You have helped me with many issues up till now and I don't want to seem ungrateful. Looking at my posts it seems like I ask for too much help. Your advice on this does help and will help going forward. I am frustrated that in diagnosing the match/ credit display on my pinbot and swapping parts, I seem to have fried the same display on this one. I have also done everthing I know how, and still my right flipper is weak. Eos is new and gapped, flipper moves freely by hand, and did a complete rebuild. I am ordering a new cabinet switch and will patiently work through these issues, but I admit that I am frustrated. On a good note, I reflowed some of my board work and it looks like my sounds are finally working properly. Just hope that holds up.

To resolve wether the cabinet switch is bad take a jumper wire with Aligator clips and clip one end to one soldered terminal of the cabinet switch and touch the other end of the jumper to the other solder terminal of the cabinet switch. If the solenoid fires the same it is not the cabinet switch. However if it fires strong the cabinet switch needs replacing. You may have done this already but if not it will save you from buying a part that may not fix the problem. what condition are the contacts on the cabinet switch?

#2728 3 months ago

That is definitely a unique issue. Do the Solenoids look OK? Not discolored/brown/burnt? A couple options are: go through the Solenoid test and operate the hideout solenoids 20-30 times each and see if this blows the fuse. You may have a solenoid that is shorting. As you mentioned you may want to test the ohms on the solenoid.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Relays should not be causing the fuse to blow. I would think the Solenoids (most likely just one) would be more the culprit here. The power draw items on that 2.5ASB fuse are the Kicker Solenoids. Relays take very little power to operate.

I believe this is the Circuit you are having the problem with, correct?

IMG_3077 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2736 3 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Playfields are now up for sale on CPR....Get em while they're hot!

Ordering is the easy part. Doing the play field swap will be the challenge for sure.

#2739 3 months ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I did my High Speed. Wasn't too bad. Just don't trust some of the dimpling on the bottom as being ideal. Most notably, for the nine standup targets.....best to align those carefully, manually.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

#2750 3 months ago

This must be what you are talking about. I bet each machine has its own tolerances. Mine does show some contact however is not cutting into the rubber at all. If it is cutting into your flipper rubber you could take the ball guide off and grind some off of the end to prevent it from cutting your flipper rubber. You may want to check the travel of your flipper as well. It may be traveling too far.

IMG_3113 (resized).JPGIMG_3114 (resized).jpg
#2752 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Coil stops and or plungers are wearing out. Or the incorrect coil stops were installed.

Absolutely, I assumed that he had installed new parts. Could also need new flipper bushing. Check that your flipper bushing is mounted solid as well, no loose screws.

#2760 3 months ago

Quick Note:

If you are interested in purchasing a new playfield from Classic Playfields for your High Speed or know someone that wants one. CPR is showing only 3 left on their web page!

[EDIT] --- 1 Left!

#2762 89 days ago

[EDIT] I originally said coin door pic. what I really need is a pic of the front cabinet so I can print the "HIGH SPEED" and trace it for a stencil it so I can paint the front cabinet.

Need a favor from my High Speed community. My High Speed front cabinet is very weathered and I need to do a cabinet paint job. The sides are in decent shape but the front needs serious help.

If I could get one of you to take a high res picture straight on of the front CABINET so I can create a stencil I would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Here is an example of my cabinet.

you can email it to me at 757drivr@gmail(DOT)com
IMG_3143 (resized).JPG

#2768 89 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

...and so it begins...these playfields are way better than the original[quoted image][quoted image]

Hey monkfe, is that a CPR play field? I ordered one and waiting impatiently for it to arrive.

#2770 89 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

The CPR playfields came too late for me.
I will be putting the final clearcoat on my playfield Sunday......

Definitely a much cheaper way to go.

#2773 89 days ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Wow - it looks that bad and it is only the front?
Just get decals instead of a stencil and just redo the whole thing. That looks tough. I don’t have art for you since I am in a mod restore myself.
I put decals on my cabinet. I know it is not original but it is easier and in my opinion looks better.

Yea, the sides are remarkably in good shape thus why I just want to paint the front and leave the sides as is. Should be easy to paint the front. just need a good pic. Actually looking at the side of my cabinet I might be able to snap a photo of the HIGH SPEED and scale it to correct size in photoshop then make a stencil.

#2775 89 days ago
Quoted from cjchand:

The Pinball Pimp folks sold me just the backbox stencils. Might wanna see if they will sell you just the front.

Ok, if that is an option I will try that. thanks

#2777 89 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

I can take a pic of mine if you don't need everything taken off. I only have the camera from my samsung s9+ , will that work?

That would be perfect. The red and yellow square is easy to duplicate. I need a pic that shows the HIGH SPEED graphics. Thanks

#2780 88 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

I probably would have bought one anyway.
I believe the touch-up/clear coat labor is probably equal to the playfield swap labor depending on how worn the playfield actually is.

Nice to start fresh with new PF but either way there are challenges.

#2784 88 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Pics sent. Lmk if you don't get them.

Got them! Thanks

#2786 87 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Man, I was wondering how my Gmail knew your name when I was putting in the address and just figured it out. I sent you pool sharks pics a while back for that diverter. I was so mad at myself from that. I ended up breaking a plastic getting to that game and those are impossible to find! Lol. Did you get a diverter made for that?

Oh, NO. Sorry to hear that. Yes, I was able to get my diverter working. Had to make a piece from scratch then order a dozen plastic diverter pieces from a 3D printer company. Would have cost the same had I ordered 1 or 12. Has been working great since.

Sorry about the broken plastic and thanks for the help. Again.

#2788 87 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

I need some pictures (and maybe some parts) for the locking portion of the coin door. My coin door did not have a lock on it when I bought it. I bought an 7/8 that Marco's recommenced and said that would fit. After install of the lock, the door will not securely close and hangs opens about a 1/4. Any picture (parts) or suggestions would be great.

My door does that as well. There are a couple ways to fix this. I just bent an angle in the lock arm and that took out the slop. you can also find a pre bent lock arm like the one in the pic. This pre bent arm example is technically bent the wrong way, the dimple should match up with the door frame and this one would make more slack than less if installed correctly. You could install it flipped if desired.

IMG_3146 (resized).JPGIMG_3147 (resized).JPG
1 week later
#2792 79 days ago

I inquired also as I have a Playfield on order for High Speed. They were caught off guard by the demand of the high speed playfield. It seems they put the cart in front of the horse. Did not plan on so many orders along with orders still being accepted even though they did not have any more play fields.

Not sure I believe 100% of what they are claiming but they did say the play fields should ship next week. They told me that september 4th as well soooo......

#2795 76 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Anyone replace their factory speaker with two speakers?...I reached out to pinsound...said they are working on the early system 11 games and this game specifically, but "a work in progress "...my machine was down so I was filling my down time with replacing them...I removed the fabric and speaker screen, which pretty much destroys it as the glue sticks to it pretty good, I found replacement screen from pinball life. Two 4x6 speakers from Amazon some #8 T nuts...found new fabric on ebay...... Don't forget your thin blue line
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I need to do this as well. My speaker board needs replacing along with the faded fabric cover. Looks nice!

1 month later
#2814 42 days ago

Hey Woody,

Since your right lower flipper is working, If you have not done so yet, I would check continuity between the cabinet flipper switch BLK/YEL wire to the Coil Lug BLK/YEL wire on your upper right flipper. (see pic below) Possibly a molex terminal has slipped out of one of the dark brown connectors in the lower back cabinet. There are TWO connectors you need to check. See Pics.
Check Continuity at red arrowsIMG_3484 (resized).JPGIMG_3485 (resized).JPG

#2817 42 days ago

I am not sure if a bad cap Would cause that to not fire. Have you shorted the switch itself at the switch solder connections where the cap is soldered? There could be a problem with the switch blades. How are the switch contacts?

#2819 42 days ago

When you

Quoted from woody76:

10-4, I was just about to do that. Coil is getting power, I shorted it and it fires, so it has to be something with that black/yellow wire or the cabinet switch. A bad cap on the cabinet switch would not cause this would it??
I wanted to get the rest of the game put back together before my daughters halloween party today.
Thanks for your help

What did you short to get the coil to fire?

#2821 42 days ago

This is very basic but Did you check the flipper switch for continuity? place the DMM probes on the solder tabs fo the switch at the BLK/YEL and ORG/VIO then press the flipper button. I am at a loss here and thinking it is going to be a very odd failure.

#2823 42 days ago

I am out of ideas on this one. I do not believe the cap would be a culprit but stranger things have happened.

#2828 42 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You need to check for continuity from the other wire on the cabinet switch to the connector on the CPU board.

Woody said the lower flipper operates, it is just the upper flipper that is not operating via the flipper cabinet switch. The lower and the upper flipper use the same wire ORG/VIO to the CPU board 1J19-1 so the continuity should show good. Wouldn't you agree?

#2829 42 days ago

Your solenoid wiring is correct. No cap needed. Here is a pic of my upper flipper.

IMG_3487 (resized).jpg
#2837 41 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

can you explain how to do this? want to make sure I do it correctly.

use a jumper wire to the ORG/VIO & BLK/YEL on the solder lugs of the switch. This will only work if you have an active game or in diagnostic mode such as switch edges or switch levels. If the solenoid operates your switch is suspect.
IMG_3488 (resized).jpg

#2840 41 days ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

What is the most likely cause if none of my special solenoids are firing (slings, pops, rear flasher). All other coils are working fine, including flippers. New rottendog board.

Did the problem start after you installed the rottendog board or did you install the rottendog board trying to fix the problem?

#2846 41 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

just did this and started game and upper flipper fired and held until I took jumper off. Ordered a new switch.
Thanks monkfe, grumpy, and pin-pilot

Great! I always replace flipper switches. Its easy and they usually need to be replaced when you get a used game.

3 weeks later
#2887 15 days ago

Either file down the top of the screw just a little, take the screw off and use a grinder to file the top of the screw a little or you can file the end of the wire on the spinner into a cone shape or cut the wire 1/16". You could also find a replacement screw that might have a screw head that is not as high. There is some room on the spinner bracket to move it over keeping the spinner wire away from the screw head, looks like there is some room on the other side of the spinner to take up the slack.

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