4 Aces
Williams, 1970
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
Comet
Williams, 1985
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider nerdygrrl.
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I picked up a beat HS a few months back from a friend. The machines was previously routed and everything on it was battered. I managed to get a plastic kit from Marco, as well as the stencils he carries and a new CPR back glass to replace the photocopied version the cab came with. I am hoping and praying I can get my hands on a CPR playfield or a used slightly less battered one so I can begin my restore.
Quoted from dsuperbee:Also, finding a NOS HS PF in good shape is damn near impossible. It boils down to how little wear you can find in a replacement PF.
Glad I got mine. One issue (waiting to hear back fro CPR on), but still happy.
Not sure if it is still available, but a guy on KLOV had an NOS HS PF for sale for something like $850. It had some raised inserts, but aside from that looked good. It was just too far out of my budget with the work and eventual clear coat. The guy seemed pretty solid.
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=298951&highlight=High+Speed
Quoted from MustangPaul:What are these metal things used for? They are all over the pf plastic pieces.
HS metal pieces-101.JPG 175 KB
Does anyone know where I can buy replacements for these "ball blocks"? The ones on my SI and HS are shot and I would like to buy some new ones.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Good question. No idea, I've never seen new ones.
Sadly, this is what I was afraid of. Are there suitable replacement bits (rubber or plastic)?
Quoted from CASTHOF:I don't know if anyone else has found the HS manual less than helpful finding replacement parts... I need help, the kicker arms and ball ejects use a 2-1/2" non tapered spring. Whats the part number for it?
Tell me about it. I don't know if you have the link, but I was using this (Williams Blue Parts Catalog) for some of my hunt. It's less than desirable, but better than nothing.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=BOOK
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:Pinballife, I got a full kit and a half kit for the right side only, not sure on overseas shipping cost. Also don't forget to get different EOS switches, the ones in the kit are for low voltage, get the high voltage ones, get those rubber grommets to for the new base plate. Gotta make sure you have everything you need and them some in one order.
Thanks for the tip. I am going to place an order for the rebuild kits this weekend and wasn't sure if they needed anything else.
I picked up a set of stencils from Marco, but they lack registration marks. Can anyone provide me with some basic x/y measurements for the white and red. Even if I can just get a rough idea how far up from the base of the cab to start my white would be fantastic. Many thanks in advance
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:I just went through the same problem on an Eight Ball. What I did was to shine a light up through the stencils on a play field glass to align them to each other. I snipped notches into the corners of the stencils where the legs cover them. That way you at least have a reference when doing the second colour on the cabinet. Even then I found I had to roughly apply the second stencil check alignment and adjust things, at least I had a reference. I found the twistedpins stencils were good quality but not well thought out in terms of colour order and they had no overlaps, everything had to be perfectly aligned.
Thanks, it's super frustrating. Not to mention the color sequence seems to be in reverse of what others have done White -> Red -> Yellow instead of Yellow -> Red -> White. I just took a look at Jim's restoration thread from a year and a half ago and try and use that as my guide. I only wish Qbass had documented the stenciling process a bit better.
This was probably not the best project to get my feet wet with stenciling.
Yeah, when my friend and I tried to lay it down we were just baffled. There was no decent way to line it up. I think I'll start with the yellow and go from there. At least then we will have reference points. I'm not at all happy with the stencils. How hard is it to put in registration marks?
Quoted from tonycip:Ok That might work, I'll try some and let you know how they worked..
I'm replacing all the plastics and need to figure something out. someone said to heat up the ends and try melting them into the new plastics .. that may be the last resort..
+1 take your soldering iron heat the tip and pull.
You may try the plastic one used on the 11C's but I can't guarantee they will fit
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Northampton, MA
Melbourne, ON
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