(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


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Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (6 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (4 years ago)


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#77 10 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Just made my shifter knob plunger this morning

For those that want to make this shifter rod, buy one of these:
ebay.com link » 4 Speed Gear Shift Shifter Knob White Ball 1 1 2 Diameter 5 16 18 Thread Size
Drill out the smaller brass thread up to 3/8 (starting with smallest first and working up of course). If you drill very slowly, you can hold the ball with your hand. If you go fast, it will likely catch the thread and stop.
Once you have a 3/8" hole, simply pound in one of these shooter rods with a rubber mallet (hit the ball, rest the rod against a piece of wood)
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1608

photo.JPG 66 KB

Very nice. That looks to be for a Hurst Super Shifter 3.

3 weeks later
#152 10 years ago

I repainted the front of my HS and it turned out like crap. They gave me the wrong order in which to apply them (but I got it right), they fit like crap, they have to fit EXACTLY on top of each other which is almost impossible to do and the white which is the last had to go down had to be cut up into 4 pieces so the registration would fit sideways. I can't imagine trying to do the long sides.

#155 10 years ago

I got it this summer from TP. Don't know if it's the new one. When did the new one come out?

1 week later
#162 10 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Their's is sys 11A or B not for High Speed because HS , Road Kings and one other games I can't think of, have the sound roms on the MPU and a separate board for back ground sounds. I read other forums where guys tried to modify the 11A to run HS I think, not sure if it ever worked.

Where are the sound roms on the MPU....under the battery holder? I'm not getting sounds out of my game. All plugs have been reseated, no broken pins.

#164 10 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Background sound only on sound board, speech is on MPU.
Robert
From Clay's repair guide:
3d. When thing don't work: Power-On Tones and Sound Diagnostics/Problems
"System 11 sound used 'FM sound', which is generated from the YM2151 8-voice FM synthesizer chip. Digital sound data from the YM2151 is converted into an analog signal in the YM3012 DAC chip. A preamp MC1458 chip pre-amplifies this analog signal before it is sent to the mixer and final amplifier. System11 usually assigned a pair of FM-voices for an instrument. This is what made system11 FM-synthesis stand out in sound quality and innovation. The synthesizer was also capable of making noise sounds and this was used for most of the cymbal and hi-hat sounds.
Williams used the term 'general sound' for any sound created by the MC1408 DAC chip. Sampled sounds, such as drums, are processed through the DAC. These are all 8-bit samples stored in ROM. Algorithm-based sounds are also processed through the DAC. These sounds are created by software algorithms. They are played monophonically (only one sound can play at one time), and are easily distinguished this way. Algorithm-based sound was used widely in Williams system 3 through 11B games, and it was stopped starting with system 11C games.
All speech is generated from the 55536 CVSD chip. Digital speech data is clocked serially into the CVSD chip and converted into an analog signal. A preamp chip (MC1458) pre-amplifies this analog signal before it is sent to the mixer and final amplifier." From http://www.dreamstasys.com/system11.htm.
Power-on Tone(s).
When the system 11 games boots, it produces power-on tone(s). Here is the breakdown of the tone(s):
• No Sound: sound/speech board is not operating, or a failure is affecting the sound circuitry (broken or disconnected cable, dead amplifier, bad speaker).
• One Tone: sound/speech system OK.
• Two Tones: sound/speech RAM problem.
• Three Tones: U4 problem.
• Four Tones: U19 problem.
CPU Sound Diagnostic Switch SW1.
Testing the sound circuitry is only possible after successful completion of the system 11 power-on CPU tests (as described above). That is, the game must boot properely and go into "attract" mode, with no power-on beep tones.
On the left side of the CPU board there are two switches. The top switch SW1 is the sound diagnostic switch. If you press this button, you should get two test sounds. This shows that the CVSD (Continuously Variable Slope Delta) modulator, which produces the game's voices, and the DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) sound circuits are working.
After pressing CPU switch SW1 you should get some tones. Here is the breakdown:
• No Sound: sound/speech board is not operating, or a failure is affecting the sound circuitry (broken or disconnected cable, dead amplifier, bad speaker).
• One Tone: U23 RAM chip error.
• Two Tones: U21 ROM chip error.
• Three Tones: U22 ROM chip error.
• Four Tones: U21 ROM chip error.
• Five Tones: U22 ROM chip error.
No Sound when CPU switch SW1 is Pressed (but sound heard during diagnostic tests).
Check the sound select inputs (U9 pins 2-9) with a logic probe to see if they pulse during Sound Test 01. Also check the -12 volt supply voltage on the CPU board. If this voltage is low (or AC ripple seems high), perform the following checks (you can check for ripple using your meter set to AC volts; more than .75 AC volts is probably too much AC ripple).
• Check the gray and gray/green transformer secondary wires for 19.4 volts AC.
• Check the CPU board filter capacitor C26 for -12 volts DC.
• Check the CPU board filter capacitor C26 for AC ripple (over .75 volts AC).
If the above tests did not find the problem, turn the volume control up all the way, and momentarily touch a powered-on AC soldering pencil on the center tap of the volume control (do NOT use a solder iron over 40 watts, and a cordless soldering will not work for this test). If you hear a low hum, this means the power amplifier (U1, TDA2002), the volume control, the speakers, and the sound cabling are all working.
If you don't hear the hum in the above test, turn the volume control down slightly, and repeat the soldering iron test.
This should isolate if the volume control is at fault.
Also check the cable connectors for proper mating, and that no wires are broken.
System 11 Sound Board Generations.
All system 11 games used sound board D-11581 except High Speed, Grand Lizard, Pinbot, Road Kings, Space Station, and Jokerz:
• High Speed (sys11): Background music board D-11297.
• Grand Lizard (sys11): Background music board D-11297.
• Road Kings (sys11): Sound board D-11298 (first game to use a Yamaha YM2151 sound chip on the sound board).
• Pinbot (sys11a): Sound board D-11298.
• Space Station (sys11b): Sound board D-11298.
• Jokerz (sys11b): Used a special stereo sound board D-12338 with different sound board power requirements and cabling. Also CPU board jumpers W1,W2,W4,W5,W7,W8,W11,W14,W16,W17,W19 must be installed.
The commonly used system11 D-11581 sound board utilized a 68B09E CPU, YM2151/YM3012 8-voice FM sound synthesizer (8-bit sound), a MC1408 DAC (Digital/Analog Converter), and a 55536 CVSD speech chip. The U4 EPROM contains the sound board operating system and YM2151 music data. EPROMs U21 and U22 contain speech and/or 8-bit sample data. If looking for this sound board, it can usually be bought cheaply because it was also used in some late 1980s Williams video games (Arch Rivals, Trog, Smash TV, High Impact, and Strike Force).
High Speed and Grand Lizard used background music board D-11297. It used a 68B09E CPU, a single MC1408 DAC for processing 8-bit digital samples stored in EPROM. On this board the U4 EPROM chip contains the operating system and 8-bit digital sample data. The operating system on this chip is compatible with the D-11581 sound board.

Thanks for that. Pressed the SW1 switch and still no sound.

#166 10 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Make sure you have all 4 cables seated to the sound board, 2 on the left (speaker wire set is connected to the lower one) and 2 on the bottom (power and ribbon cable). Check the screws on the board, make sure they have some good bite for grounding (6 screws). Give the ROM a visual inspection (do not take it out of the socket) make sure the legs are not sticking out or crumpled, give it a firm push.

Checked all that and all's good.

Quoted from eh97ac:

If you still have no sound, check both speakers and the sound pento to make sure all wires are attached.

All wires attached and look good. Nothing coming out even at start up.

#172 10 years ago
Quoted from BadBrad97:

Did it ever have sound? Seems like on that machine you can mix up the cables.

Yes it did, all I did was replace the speakers.

#173 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

My sound went out awhile back, and asked a friend who is familiar with HS, and he told me to follow the wires from the volume pot up into the head and pull the plug and put it back in and to my surprise I had sound. He said that corrosion build up and the plug needs re-seated sometimes!

I did that about 6 times now to all the plugs and no go.

#174 10 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

If there is corrosion, the plug and pins need replacement. Re seating is a temp fix at best

Plugs and pins are clean, no corrosion at all.

#175 10 years ago

Anyone know where I can get a good clean MPU board?

#179 10 years ago

They have it...$355. Thanks Jeff, I had never hear of that place before.

#180 10 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

my shooter knob was so mushroomed that I couldn't remove it from the shooter housing.

You were using it without the rubber tip?

#183 10 years ago

and the shooter tip HAS to be the easiest part of the whole game to replace too.

#203 10 years ago

Anyone have close up pictures of the playfield with the plastics off? I'm putting mine back together and want to make sure I have the pieces in the right place. The pictures I took look like crap, I didn't check each picture as I was taking it apart. Lesson learned. Thanks

#204 10 years ago

What are these metal things used for? They are all over the pf plastic pieces.// Error: Image 189953 not found //

HS metal pieces-101.JPGHS metal pieces-101.JPG
#223 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

How do you get them off? I installed new plastic kit and could not get those off the old ones! Also could not get the spacers off the lane guide plastic's on the old pieces so I did not install the new ones. Any ideas on how to get them off without ruining the plastic?

Not only getting them off but putting them on the new plastics. They were pressed on from the factory that made them. We are SOL on this one.

#224 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Did you get your sound issue fixed?

Yeah, it was a bad connector on the board. That board is in bad shape but it still works....knock on my head....I mean wood.

#225 10 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

It's not that people can't or shouldn't ask questions and get answers here, but I think if it takes 10 consecutive posts of back and forth, then it probably deserves its own thread with a link to it here. But I could be wrong, and I'm not that passionate about it.

I have the game and I want to know ALL about it especially problems others have and how they got fixed because I may have the same problems in the future.

#226 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

RyThom, a fellow High Speed owner is getting the Helicopter plastic!
RyThom , just put it in the mail for ya and will be heading your way!

GREAT gesture Jeff. Pinsiders helping Pinsiders...LOVE it.

#244 10 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Does anyone know where I can buy replacements for these "ball blocks"? The ones on my SI and HS are shot and I would like to buy some new ones.

Good question. No idea, I've never seen new ones.

#246 10 years ago

Still looking for good close up pictures of the pf with plastics off, having a hard time putting my game back together.

#249 10 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Sadly, this is what I was afraid of. Are there suitable replacement bits (rubber or plastic)?

I've been thinking of just using something like post rubbers, the fat or skinny ones (not sure what color) and cut to height if needed and bolt them on. The clear red or green would look good.

#252 10 years ago
Quoted from Craig:

Sure thing. My great enemy is lack of space. If and when I let it go, it will be because I simply cannot cram one more pin into the house. We'll see...

Start putting them in the bedroom.

#257 10 years ago
Quoted from 80spit:

Got Mine Yesterday too, tier 4. pretty much the same as badpenny's man that thing shines, I can only imagine
how much faster this game will play once it's swapped out
Now the fun starts

Good for you, take your time with the install, let that pf cure REAL good.

#266 10 years ago
Quoted from Shaneus:

You lucky dogs with the repro playfields. Sadly I only got my HS *just* after they stopped selling them, I think... no more than a month at most.
Still a blast, this game. Joining this club/thread as of now!

Nice to see ya here. How's the weather Down Under?

#267 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Hey guys I'am having difficulty with my flippers, one is binding and the other wont tighten back down. I have the thread up in the main forum, but I probably should have put it in here for fellow HS owners can help out.

Not sure about the binding but the one that won't tighten down probably needs a new bat and a pawl (not sure about spelling).. The pawl is what clamps the bat shaft to the coil plunger.

#269 10 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

Made some good progress today, has anyone else made fresh white oak side rails for the game? I'm about to start looking... 1/2"x1-1/8". Other than that, topside was a total breeze. I know I will pay for it on the bottom side.

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The bottom would scare the crap out of me.

#274 10 years ago

I've got 2 new choppers too. Gonna look great.

#282 10 years ago
Quoted from Shaneus:

Oh god.

Oh god, stop tempting me! I can't imagine what the shipping would be like to here, either. Might just hold off until they announce who the Australian distro is for CPR. The whole machine only set me back $1800AU, I don't know if I could justify spending another $1000 (just checked, is $180USD shipping on top of the $700USD) when my current PF does the job okay (just the killer ball-swirl which is the main dealbreaker).
Having said that, I don't think I'd ever get rid of it, so having a perfectly playing HS would be kinda nice to have.
Worst case, I might see if I can get Hot Rodded Pins to restore it. No idea how much that'd cost, but it might be cheaper!
In other news, finally got the missing puzzle pieces for my (hopefully last) cab mod. Excuse the non-standard topper (didn't come with one) and the mess underneath!
» YouTube video

Nice.

#306 10 years ago
Quoted from CASTHOF:

Rainy day = a lot of progress. I currently have all 3 wiring harnesses separated and ready for a bath, filthy. Tumbler has been running almost nonstop for 2 days. Waiting on about 5 packages of pinball parts to come in.
P.S. I may want a refund from CPR... the colors are wayyy off! Hahaha

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Your game is going to be so bright it'll be scary.

#320 10 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Is there any good way to ship a popluated playfield?

Wrap it one of those cheap moving blankets to cushion all the sharp edges, tape it up and put it in a big enough box to surround it with peanuts. That's the way one of mine came. Arrived in perfect shape.

#345 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Iam going to Harbor freight and get the tools I need to do the job right. http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters.html If anyone has any tips or tricks let me know.

I don't think those will work....but I could be wrong.

#347 10 years ago
Quoted from Wookbert:

So much attention to detail! Bravo! There is one part you’ll badly need once restoration is complete, and which I'm pretty sure you haven’t sourced yet (cause it just doesn’t exists): The yellow ”Inspected by <Your Name here>“ sticker!
P.S.: I'm the guy who drew the artwork for your new playfield. Sorry for putting my name in the left outlane, but I'd spent so many hours on this, I just couldn't resist.

You do great work. I'd like to someday see how that's done, I know it takes hundreds of hours of computer work but I like that kind of stuff.

#350 10 years ago
Quoted from Wookbert:

It's basically layer by layer. You start with all the black contours and then „fill“ those with the colors. The problem though is that filling doesn't work like the paint bucket tool in Photoshop, as a) the paths aren’t necessarily closed and b) the color need to underlap the black contours, so in case the color layer gets slightly misregistered in printing (shifted) that you don't immediately see a white gap.
And then there is a lot of guess work involved, as the scanned source playfield is often already printed with huge misregistrations. In case of the High Speed I had to contact Steve Ritchie (the lead designer) in order to figure out how to get in contact with Mark Sprenger, who back in 1985 drew the original High Speed PF artwork and who luckily answered me quite some few questions on certain details.
I've posted some images of the Illustrator artwork here: http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-know-when-cpr-will-be-finishing-high-speed-playfield#post-952977
Attached is what this looks like as wireframe in Illustrator (you gotta zoom in, 180,000 vector points in total). But while this might look impressive, one shouldn’t forget that Mark Sprenger did this back in 1985 all by hand, which I think is much harder.

HS-Playfield-Preview-Final-Wire3... 1.8 MB

Bildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.... 1.3 MB

Bildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.... 1.3 MB

Bildschirmfoto 2014-02-28 um 16.... 1.4 MB

Thanks for taking the time to explain and show some of it. I've only used PhotoShop for the artwork on my Bonneville Racing dvd boxes. Registering 52 layers for one box design is tough but mostly it's just cutting, pasting and resizing, not anywhere near as difficult as Illustrator but I would still have about 30 hours into it. 180,000 vector points blows my mind.

1 week later
#365 10 years ago
Quoted from Lowrent:

Switch matrix harness cleaned and installed.

switch harness done.jpg 193 KB

Looking better then new.

#368 10 years ago
Quoted from kporter946286:

Question about outer orbit shots. I am a proud HS owner and never had a problem with this but a friend (whom will remain nameless) refuses to play my game b/c of what he feels is a faulty left orbit shoot. On my machine if you hit the left orbit, it drops the ball into the pops instead of looping the entire way around. He insists that this left orbit shot is supposed to go around and deliver the ball to the 3rd flipper. The right orbit (on my machine at least) does take the ball all the away around.
I have not really played another HS machines at great length and was wondering if the left orbit should be bringing the ball all-the-way around to the 3rd flipper. Or if the left orbit is just supposed to deliver the ball to the pops like mine does?

Oh that's a good question, I'll have to look for that when my game comes next week.

#383 10 years ago

Yeah that's a little slow. Mine is right at 6 and I like it there.

#387 10 years ago
Quoted from popeboy:

I had not thought of that, good call. After thinking about it myself last night, I think I'm just going to extend the wires about a foot and mount the topper on a small shelf in between the two pin backboxes. I think that will still look pretty cool. I will post a pic after I get it done.
Thanks

The light revolves so your going to pull all that out and make a box to house the motor right. Sounds like a project.

#394 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

(Asking the pinball gods to allow me into the club in the next few months...)
-mof

Pictures....or it won't happen.

#395 10 years ago
Quoted from dbf909:

I just sold my High Speed AND my Getaway at the APE show in Fort Lauderdale a couple of weeks ago.
I got the High Speed in 1992 and the Getaway in 2006. Both awesome machines - I had a lot of fun working on them and playing them over the years.
High Speed in particular was very near and dear to my heart. I learned a great deal from troubleshooting and fixing that machine. The background music is so 80's but it really sticks in your head...
I've owned and sold many machines in that time but I always kept High Speed. The only machine that I've had longer and still have is Space Shuttle (bought in 1986). I always have machines loaned out to friends and try to rotate them every so often. Keeping them running is relatively easy and it is cheap storage in my book. Plus, they get played.
I sold High Speed to a local guy I met at the show - his first machine. He was very excited to get it home and setup to play. I spent a great deal of time explaining how it works and showing him how to set it up and work on it - just as some great folks did for me back in the day.
The Getaway went to a friend of a friend who was super excited to take it home as well.
So I guess it is too late to join this club - at least for now...

You'll be back.

#396 10 years ago
Quoted from popeboy:

I knew it revolved, but did not think about needing to enclose the motor, I will have to reconnect and see exactly what I will be dealing with.

No errors when I fire up the game, but I will definitely test the switch. Thanks.

Yeah, the motor hangs from the top board in the bb. Gonna be a fun project.

#398 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I didn't like the wood tone side rails so I painted mine gloss black. My swap is done with the exception of the ramp... I'm going to fabricate a new one out of clear PETG that will accept either a paint scheme or decals.

Black Rails.JPG 105 KB

Does that look NICE!! Great job. And while the game is out put some Comet brand red "Crystal Fan" bulbs in the pops, they are GREAT.

#400 10 years ago
Quoted from popeboy:

Actually I just looked at it again last night. The hole on the top of the backbox that it mounts to is about 4" in diameter (just guessing, didn't actually measure it), I was thinking I could just buy the right size hole saw and pop a hole in the little shelf, screw it to the bottom of that like it is mounted in the machine. The motor itself is enclosed and pretty small.

Yup that's what I was thinking too and just glue 3 pieces of wood around the motor to hide it.

#405 10 years ago

If anyone needs/wants a new diverter ramp cover Bayareaamusements still has them. Mine was yellowed and cracked so it was a $9 no brainer for me. Get um while ya can.

#410 10 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

I'm thinking about buying new legs and a pinball dolly.

Don't you have sliders under the feet? Is your floor hard or carpet?

1 week later
#432 10 years ago

Yeah I would say that was a deal. Hope it cleans up well for you.

#433 10 years ago

Hey guys, anyone doing anything to their game this weekend? I installed dual red leds to my flipper buttons and put a red led under the left roll over switch to light it up.

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Also is this ball popper plastic part #03-9101-9? I just want to make sure before I buy it. Gonna light this one up too. Thanks

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#436 10 years ago

Lordloss, here ya go. Sent ya 2 PM's.

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#438 10 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Lit my saucer, both rollover stars, and added an extra bulb under the ramp myself.

Looks like that right star will be a PITA to light up.

#439 10 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

I did the very same thing last summer on mine. Lit both flipper buttons (I only used a single flex), then swapped out the plunger for the translucent red one, then added sockets and lit both stars and the catch as well.

That's funny, I just put a translucent red plunger on mine too. I want to put a red translucent saucer (see above pict.) in mine but is that the right part no.? I think it is.

#443 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I have completed the playfield swap but put it on hold while I fabricate a new vacuum formed ramp. This is the first test pull just to confirm fit. Putting final touches on the mold now and should pull a finished product in the next few days. Trying clear and will add color and decals.

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WOW!!! I'd say you were busy. I hope you plan on selling these. and will all the holes along with the metal entrance flap be in and on it also. Looks nice and thick. Will the pf ramp entrance have to be made deeper because the ramp floor is thicker? So many questions, sorry.

#447 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

Where are you getting power to run those sockets? I been wanting to do this! I put in clear flipper buttons, and clear shooter rod, just gotta figure out where to get power, type of wire used, etc. Roll over stars same thing where are you getting power? I know on modern games there is plug connectors for mods but these older machines don't. Let me know how to hook up, and what I need to buy?

From the coin door lamps. Follow the wires from them to where they come out of the wire bundle and use these 20-16 gauge Quick Connects. 20 gauge wire works great. My local source is 10 cents each.

For the roll over and flipper buttons sockets my local source is 15 cents each and they come with 12in. wires attached.

For roll over socket power I just attach alligator clips and clip to a local GI bulb under the pf.

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#448 10 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

You have to move the position of the wiring harness.....

That's what I thought....and then stand on you head inside the cab to see what your doing.

#453 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

.010 PETG. Besides trying to come up with something different I want to build a little bit of "swoop" into the design to hopefully eliminate the need for the ramp cover. Just setting this test into the game opens up a lot of possibilities to do something creative with the back area...open the game up more. Hope to have one in place to test in the next week. If there is interest in these I could make more. My plan it so install the existing hardware from mine onto this one, although I do have new blue tempered spring steel for the ramp entrance. Also set up to rivet all in place but will use screws for testing. Fun stuff. I'll keep everyone posted and get a photo once in the game.

That all sounds great, especially getting rid of the ball cover. A nice transparent red or blue would look and light up nice. Keep up the great fun...I mean work...oh you know what I mean.

#455 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

It understand it is possible to get PETG in colors, but generally it is special order. I thought the same thing about doing it in red or blue. Once I get the test right I'll look into colors further.

OK thanks.

#457 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I have enough plastic right now for about 10 or 11 more pulls. Had planned on testing colors with Creatix transparents for fun.

Are they the floresent colors?

#460 10 years ago

Does that look GREAT, it makes the game look so MODERN and open. You could put a small cop car under the ramp, like they hide under bridges and during the chase a little red flashing light could come on as they chase you. The mind reels with "what if's". I don't know if I'll be able to fall asleep tonight thinking of stuff.

#466 10 years ago

I tell ya Freeplay you have a winner here.

#476 10 years ago

The more I think about it I would want a clear ramp not a colored one. I want to see the cool stuff we come up with for under it.

OK guys we need people to make underside sticky decals and someone to make the little police car (like depicted on the game) that has a red, lit, blinking (gumball) on top that's plug-n-play synced to the car chase part of the game. Who has the skills to do these things? Oh and some kind of decal or something to put on that big white spot that's there now under the ramp that the police car would sit on.

Let the brain storming begin.

#478 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I like how you think.
I hope to join this club in a few weeks...
Keep those ideas comin'!
-mof

Likewise I'm sure....after all we have 2 and possibly a third game in common.

#481 10 years ago

Hey Freeplay, I know you haven't quite figured it out yet but how much "swoop" do ya think you can put into that left ramp? I have a heavy spring in the shooter now and that rockets the ball up and around and if I put the medium heavy spring in it just kind of limps around. So what I'm saying is try diff. shooter springs with your design, I think it will have a major influence. May be even enclose a "Certified from the manufacture'er" shooter spring that has been "Play tested". Just an idea.

#482 10 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

There's asphalt texture behind the yellow dashed line,

I hope your "asphalt" doesn't give the ball "road rash". Nothing worse then having road rash on your balls.

#484 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

As far as spring strengths go, High Speed requires a strong if not the strongest spring.... Gotta be fast. Are we having fun yet?

OK.

#486 10 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

It's not just the shooter. What about the upper right flipper being able to make it up the ramp? I have not worked on mine yet and the flipper is probably weak but the ball just barely make the ramp shot as it is. I want to do the flipper mod that was mention early on in this thread.

That's true.

#497 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I am completing the final touches to the mold this evening. Should make the first test form tomorrow that I can actually install in my machine to test. I thought I'd be making this for myself and some friends. Appreciate everyone's interest. Pinside is the only place where I have shown this to anyone, so you guys will certainly come first. I'll post photos as soon as I have it installed. This will just be the clear ramp with no added decoration so you can all see what it will look like. Thanks everyone.

Good luck with the test tomorrow, we'll all be waiting on pins (pun intended) and needles to hear of the results.

#503 10 years ago

and you call yourself a HOBBYIST! You REALLY know what your doing. What do you do for a day job...design rocket motors. Great job!

#507 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Ahhhhh....Recently Retired....

I see, me too, early though in 3 months, but I'm still going to work for a while.

#509 10 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I hope this goes well for you, I was thinking about that cover, does it have to do with anything as far as the diverter mech goes? I'm hoping the ball doesn't sail when the ball is kicked to the hideouts. Just something to think about.

I just replaced my cover and there wasn't a scratch on it in that area. But it sure was yellowed.

#518 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Going to radically increase the swoop...

Does this mean we are gonna have to cut the cab side so the "swoop" has clearance?

#520 10 years ago

May be you could make it so the ball shoots up the ramp and into a 360 degree cork screw tube and is deposited perfectly for the diverters. Using a tube you wouldn't have to worry about a cover or the ball flying out. Hey it was just a thought.

#530 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Sorry I've been quiet on the new clear ramp for High Speed. I have the new and improved mold design just about done, but spent the last 2 days in the hospital! Anyway, I'm back home now but need to take it a little easy. Should have a new ramp to show you in a few days.

I hope it was nothing serious. Take your time and don't push it, be a good boy for the doctor.

#538 10 years ago
Quoted from Lowrent:

Here's mine.
Some screws missing, I've received #8 wood screws instead of #6...
I'm still working on a power supply problem before putting everything back together.

hs.jpg 115 KB

Very nice.

#552 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

So... I put the ramp in the game and tried just throwing some balls up the ramp and can see that I easily have the ball flying out of the ramp under control. So now I'm going to pull back a little and probably end up about in the middle of this new ramp and the stock ramp. Probably won't be very noticeably different from the first ramp I made. I'm obsessed with this thing!

Well if this one works why go back? It looks like the ramp entrance flap might stick out onto the pf a little farther then stock.

#561 10 years ago
Quoted from Jeff_PHX_AZ:

It must be an led, just replace with a reg. #47 bulb and forget about it. Where ever my eyes can see bulbs they remain #47 reg. bulbs, like the center stoplight targets, that bulb is directly shining towards players eyes, it remains incandescent in my HS.

What I was going to try was to cut a piece of frosted milk jug plastic and place it behind the targets to diffuse the light and if it works then glue it to the back of the targets ridged metal pieces. They don't move so it might work and not look to bad.

#572 10 years ago

It updates the game very nicely, makes it look elegant and refined. The only big problem I see is that now you can see through the ramp and have to look at that black wall on the back of the game. That thing looks to be a moders dream. Let's see what people come up with. Maybe some mirror plex would look nice.

#576 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I plan to take care of everyone here first if they are still interested.

You da man Mark. I like the idea of the billboard but what would be advertising? I wonder is a hobby store would have something like that, something for a model train set-up maybe?

#579 10 years ago

I don't think so but it sounds like a good mod but would be $$$.

#610 10 years ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

This is completely off topic, but I found it quite funny!
Took this from my truck yesterday at the Turkey Hill:

Chris

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Now that's funny. I'm sure they hear about it all the time.

#612 10 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

So Here's the folks that have expressed an interest in this new ramp... I may need to check spelling.
1 Mustang Paul
2 Jeff_PHX
3 Drano
4 Love2k
5 Chaos
6 Harbngr
7 Craig
8 Tony Cip
9 MJW
10 Toyota Boy
11 Mof
12 nvu4prod
13 ottogd
14 Ninjaboot
15 mkoga
16 dsuperbee
17 Silver Spinner
18 Silver Spinner
19 rhoggard
20 Badpenny61
21 Mocean
22 Pac-Fan
23 Lordloss
24 TomGWI
Ordering the plastic today. Bear with me...we are very close.

Hey Mark, would you do me a favor and engrave your artograph and number it. Having it signed by the artist would be so cool.

#613 10 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

Good idea. I have a Jokerz with the clear upper playfield and that has 4 flashers behind it and a red/cream checker pattern on it. Your idea with >>>> on yellow/black is similar and fits with the HS theme.

Thinking something like these then?

jokerzUpperPFbackSticker.jpg 49 KB

9455241-road-sign-indicating-cur... 4 KB

Slim_Solar_Chevron_Sign_3_arrows... 55 KB

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I like that and to add to it if someone could figure out how to use the same reflective Scotchlite material used on the real signs, that would REALLY light up. To get REALLY carried away figure out how to use EL paper.

#614 10 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Here are my goals for a bottom-side decal.
1. Block LOS (line of sight) bright white light
2. Block unused playfield (stuff under ramp) (when there's no light there)
3. Create a visual "blend" from playfield street look to the ramp
4. Keep the sides and upper ramp clear to "SEE" ball travel during an orbit shot. To me, this is a BIG reason to get clear ramps. I hate obscured orbit shots...
Here's how I propose it looks. I realize we can have BOTH side treatments and under treatments.
-mof
BEFORE

AFTER

How about making that decal out of something that would some light through and light it up from the underside.

HS-grey.png 1.8 MB

HS.png 1.8 MB

1 week later
#638 9 years ago

You are a true craftsman and take pride in what you do. Do the 2 switches have diodes on them, I can't remember?

#639 9 years ago

My left side ball guide is beat to crap also, how much for one like your going to make? I'll be sending you my parts.

#644 9 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

cool I'll be sending my parts also, I'll have to see what my left side ball guide looks like when I take my melted ramp off.

Probably as beat as ours.

#646 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Thinking $5 for that piece (takes a lot of polishing to get through the "blue" of the spring steel, but I want to test it in my machine... Here's a photo of one I just made

IMG_0416.JPG 122 KB

Won't that spring steel rust? Isn't the original made out of stainless and isn't stainless harder? Also, isn't using the old torn up one like running a new ball over sandpaper?

#651 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Sticks to a magnet so not true stainless. It also bends very easily. Looks like it was chromed one side.

OK.

#652 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

OK... Final design installed in my machine and working great. One with flash and one without. Note that I have not yet reinstalled the stop light.

IMG_0419.JPG 144 KB

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Beautiful. The game looks so modern.

#654 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Has anyone tried cool alternate bat/rubber combos for the flippers?
-mof

nope.

#670 9 years ago

You mean like this? Now is a good time to clean back there, repaint the board and install new long rubbers. Paint should be nice and dry by the time the new ramp is back.

As far as the connector goes I'm just going to swap the originals.

IMGA0950.JPGIMGA0950.JPG

#674 9 years ago

This is what my bracket looks like, it mounts to the top lip of the ramp with 2 bolts and nuts. That wire with the loop on the right side of the picture attaches to one of the bolts, for stop light stability. I hope the new ramp has the same amount of lip in that place. That's the way my stop light was attached when I bought the game. What does your assembly look like?

IMGA0952.JPGIMGA0952.JPG
#677 9 years ago

You can see the 2 screw (they are screws not bolts) holes on the lip on the left of the picture. I hope yours have that much of a lip at that distance from the ramp entry. It would be nice if someone would post a picture of a real stock mounting location and set-up for the stop light.

IMGA0953.JPGIMGA0953.JPG
#680 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Hmmm... My game does not have that extra support loop. My ramp edges are flat as opposed to the rounded ones on the stock ramp. Since I don't know the alignment of that loop support, think I will ship without the holes drilled for the stop light. That way you can be sure of alignment. I'm going to move my stoplight into the back left corner and mount vertically.
Should have the first dozen ramps ready tomorrow.. Ones in the photo are basically done. just need to rivet the flaps,

IMG_0424.JPG 54 KB

Pinball PORN!!!

#681 9 years ago
Quoted from pinballholder:

Like this?

WP_20140430_010.jpg 172 KB

Thanks Pinballholder.

Quoted from Freeplay40:

Like I said, my game does not have any extra support for the stoplight. Mine was simply attached with a sheet metal screw in one of the holes and a screw and nut in the other. My ramp edge there is flat and there's enough to attach. I can estimate the holes location on the new ramp as best as I can and go ahead and drill them. Here's a shot of one of mine sitting in the game..

IMG_0425.JPG 82 KB

Very good. I can drill the holes.

#682 9 years ago

EL paper would look so hot on the underside, shining up, of the ramp. But how to do it. There's your next project Mark. Take my money.

#690 9 years ago

Is the PETG stronger then a ramp that has been injected molded? Twisted Pins is getting into the ramp business as you probably know.

#691 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I don't want LOS on that bulb under the ramp...

I would think if you put a cop car there you won't see the bulb.

#695 9 years ago

You Tube frame rate could be better but it the ramp plays great and the stop light back there looks good to. Thanks Mark.

#698 9 years ago

The NTSC standard is 30 frames per second. YT looks like about 15-20, it cuts their bandwidth needed down.

#723 9 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Here's a close up of a real stop light . we have one at work don't ask why.

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I vote for a stop light like that.

#725 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

That would be awesome and a perfect match for those on the playfield. Personally I do not have a problem with cutting into the back board. It's just a piece of wood that could very easily be reproduced if necessary. I might try to make one out of a block of acrylic. Maybe a casting? Hmmm no sleep tonight!

Your a real brain Mark, if anyone can do it you can.

#726 9 years ago

Question...which warming resistor(s) control the 2 bare 89 flashers on the very back of the pf. I'd like to change them to leds.

#735 9 years ago

Mark, why didn't you refinish the board? You can see it real good now so sand-sand-sand-paint-paint-paint.

#742 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Did you get your parts shipped? Your ramp awaits..

Yup, on their way.

#753 9 years ago

While I have the pf out waiting for Freeplay40's ramp to arrive I've been busy cleaning wire bundles in the cab, cleaning the very back inside the cab and a few other things for when the ramp arrives and I can put the pf back in. One of the TOP things to replace was the original scoop hole red plastic so I stuck in a new clear red one and am going to light it up with a red flex. Took a whole 3 minutes to replace with the pf out. It will really give me something to shoot for then.

Anyone else doing stuff to their game while waiting for the new ramp?

Scoop plastic.JPGScoop plastic.JPG

#755 9 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

I lit my opaque one with a red SMD, more than bright enough without going to translucent. I also (think posted earlier in this thread) lit up both of my star rollovers on the back, and using two flex smd's did the same for my flipper buttons. I also swapped out the black plunger for a translucent red one.

that's to funny, I've done all that to mine also. But I used 2 red flex for each button.

#758 9 years ago

Yup, with that one the scoop could be lit with any color flex or regular color changer. Wish they made a flex color changer. Marco for the red one too.

#760 9 years ago
Quoted from dsuperbee:

Pretty sure someone does make a flex color changer, cause I tried it in my GnR guitar mode kickout. Did not care for it.

Really I'll have to ask Art at Comet if he has plans on bringing one to market.

#767 9 years ago

Thanks for doing these for us Mark. Take a well deserved break and have some fun. Very interested in what you come up with for a stop light.

#768 9 years ago

Could someone get Mezelmods the info he needs to make a plug N play interactive 64th scale cop car for our game. I don't have the know how to supply it. I want one for under the new ramp.

#776 9 years ago

Great going MJW....now how does it play?

#792 9 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Got my clear ramp today, looks great. May not get installed right away, but the quality is great.

ditto...... GREAT craftsmanship Mark.

#800 9 years ago

Got the back board sanded and painted semi gloss and stop light mounted. Hopefully I'll get it all back together, with Mark's killer new clear ramp this weekend.

IMGA0966.JPGIMGA0966.JPG
#802 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Down to only one ramp left. Better make some more.

Especially for the show.

#813 9 years ago

All your hard work really payed off Mark and I hope you sell out at the show and have to make 5 dozen more. I would think the new ramp would have to be for a game you all ready have so which one will it be, unless you plan on buying another project game.

#817 9 years ago

I think it would match and look better the same blue as the mini pf. I know how you like to improve things but how could you improve the design?

#819 9 years ago

You mean to say PETG only comes in clear.

#821 9 years ago

That sounds like a tricky vac-u-form job.

#823 9 years ago

Yes acrylic comes in lots of colors. Wouldn't thicker ramps make fitment more difficult?

#825 9 years ago

Make one for fun. Dang your good. It would be great to get the same color blue as the mini pf.

#827 9 years ago

That sounds interesting. You could do a LE version and charge more.

#829 9 years ago
Quoted from OTTOgd:

The upper-left mini playfield might be cool too, but maybe too complicated?

That one is made from liquid plastic so a mold would be needed.

#831 9 years ago

I've got Marks ramp in and it plays real fast, looks great and is quieter in my opinion. I moved the stop light too and that makes the beautiful clear ramp even more impressive looking. Only had to do a little grinding of the pf at the ramp entrance to make it fit flush but I wish the ramp entrance metal flap extended out onto the pf about 1/4in. more.

IMGA0970.JPGIMGA0970.JPG
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IMGA0981.JPGIMGA0981.JPG

#834 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Well it looks awesome. I don't understand why you had to grind the playfield? Was the plastic sitting up on the playfield? I'll make you a custom flap, but then you'll have to rivet it.

Well all pf's are different. There's about a 16th of an inch of flap on the pf so that will work. Thanks anyway.

#835 9 years ago
Quoted from xrayman:

Marks ramp is awesome. Build and construction are first rate. He even polished my grimy diverter plate cover and made it look brand new...
I test installed tonight and found it to be a near perfect fit out of the box.
It's quiet and plays fast.
I will need to dremel out the bottom outer right diverter window just a bit so that my right diverter flipper will not catch. The ramp entrance sits flush with the bottom screw mounted.
What is best way to patch a playfield screw hole if I'm going to place a new screw 3mm away? I'm thinking broken toothpick and wood glue... Any advice?
Also as far as mods, does anyone think these model train guys are on to something
http://miniature-traffic-lights.com/purchase_page
Thank again Mark. Your ramp is kick ass.

Yeah, tooth pick and glue. Use round ones and let them sit glued in for a few days then break them off flush. I've done it a few times.

#838 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Such great news. Looking forward to trying out the clear ramp soon...
-mof

It sure is especially Mark hand made probably a wood mold and got it so perfect then made his own vacume table all at home using hand tools for the most part and without the use of fancy cad drawings.. To be able to think in reverse 3 dimentions is really a gift. This has to be one of the best single man mods in all of pinball. The guy is a genius if you ask me.

#839 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I like that stop light. I think I need to make a trip to the train hobby store.

I like it too but it's WAY to small. We need something big enough for a 44 or 555 bulb.

#848 9 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

Not, necessarily led’s come in all sizes. Look at the rings in Shadow for one. you could easily find red ,green and yellow led's you could glue them in and make a whole plug and play assembly.. You won’t even need colored lenses.. I better check out the hobby store too! If I come up with anything good I'll let you know

I know you can get small leds, I just think the stop sign would be to small and easy to forget about with those tiny little leds being way back on the pf. I think the size of the Getaway sign would look good back there.

#850 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Or we just hang little stoplights all over the playfield!

I can't believe you just said that....go back to making some more of your great ramps. Or better yet come up with an el wire mod for your cool ramp.

#853 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Although officially retired, I've been "called up" today for consulting....DOH!

Hope ya get some $$$ for you "consulting".

#854 9 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

I'm looking forward to getting my clear ramp. The pics of it installed look freakin awesome!

It is. Ya gonna move the traffic light too?

#865 9 years ago
Quoted from SPeD66:

Had to leave this club yesterday. Need the cash & had a willing buyer.
Maybe I'll have another someday. Such a fun pin!

Sorry to see ya leave but when ya need the cash ya need the cash.

#866 9 years ago
Quoted from NinJaBooT:

It is bigger. It seems to work for Getaway so I don't see a problem with it on High Speed especially if its mounted at the back. It actually looks more authentic being yellow.

With the original farther back it actually looks kind of small to me.

#867 9 years ago
Quoted from SPeD66:

On the plus side, it went to an old high school buddy of mine about an hour away. He's been lurking on pinside & says he wants to register now that he has his first pin. So, this game might come back to the club under different ownership. And I've been invited to visit my old HS from time to time.

Cool. lost one gained one.

#868 9 years ago
Quoted from DCfoodfreak:

How hard is this to install? Any left for sale?
Thanks

Not hard at all just time consuming. Read the posts for some tips.

#870 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Unless, Like me you have taken it in an out so many times. Now only takes me about 10 minutes to put one in.

That's without saying Mark.

#884 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

In the past I have been successful forming clear acrylic, but I just figured out why the attempt today failed. The clear acrylic I have used in the past is "extruded". The blue material I had today I just realized is "cast" acrylic. So my mistake was the temperature. I heated to around 310 degrees which is on the warm side for extruded acrylic. However, cast acrylic needs between 340 and 380 degrees. Now that I know what I'm dealing with I may still give it another shot.

I was thinking temp also but didn't say anything because your the master.

#890 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I checked my Diner (11C), and I noticed it gets 38vdc at the pops.

How new are those coils? Would age have anything to do with a low reading? Are they the same coils (number) as on HS?

#897 9 years ago

I played a few games last night and had the ball fly out and land in the top right corner of the pf on top of the corner plastic on 3 seperate plunger shots. What do others have for a shooter spring? Mine is a strong one, a red.

#899 9 years ago

That's what I'm thinking also, bay be a blue or silver. Mark what say you?

#903 9 years ago

With the red in the ball just fly's up and around the ramp so fast it's spooky. Tried a silver and sometimes it doesn't even make it half way. I've tried adjusting the trajectory all kinds of dif. ways to the point where the ball hits either the left or right side of the ramp entrance, bounces back and forth a couple of times then rolls down the pf. Then the up kick in back started up-kicking 7 times with no ball in it at game start-up. Started game, shot the hole and the ball just sat there and didn't eject until it went into auto ball search then it kicked the ball out. So to check the switch, lifted the pf found nothing wrong, put pf back down, started game, lights came on, put balls in but they would not advance in trough. Took balls out, lifted pf, checked all connections, found no problems, put pf down, started game but balls still would not register in the trough and the kicker stopped trying to kick out a ball when no ball is in it, pressed game start button but only got engine trying to start sound. All fusses are good too. This is REALLY starting to piss me off.

#907 9 years ago

Big thanks to Freeplay40 today, with his help we narrowed my problem down to a bad up-kick switch so new one is on order.

#915 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

BAM! Clear Ramp installed, yellowed up the stop light. relocated the stop light, LED's, clean polished, rebuilt several mechanics, Thanks Freeplay40!!!

14140218167_6972193a1c_b.jpg 136 KB

oh man ya gotta take the glass off and take another pict. That looks terrible.

#920 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I've been talking with him today. He is still suffering from locked on coils as soon as he turns it on. We discussed his issues and I believe he has a failed, maybe 2, 7402 chip(s) which are the next in line after the transistors. I happen to have some and will be sending him 6 TIP 102 transistors and 2 7402 chips and sockets. He has spent many hours getting the machine put together, but can't play it yet.

Oh I see thanks Mark.

#921 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I don't think it would fit. HS2 has a deeper playfield than High Speed. There is some room, but I would guess no more than 3/8" additional could fit. I'm going to play around with it after the Pinball Show. Maybe we can come up with something that can be a little larger and use our existing hardware, possibly expanded a little for a larger light.

Well you could put it sideways, after all Iowa has sideways traffic lights. ...or is that Wisconsin.

#926 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

My game with the new ramp goes to the NW Pinball show in the morning. But, I just had to paint that stop light before she goes! Also, you can't see it very well in the photo, but I put super bright LED's in the stop light. Really pops now!

Yellow Stop Light.JPG 97 KB

Have fun and come back with empty boxes and money in your pockets.

#936 9 years ago

WOW!!! That is sooooo cool the King himself approves your homemade ramp. I'm soooo happy for you Mark. Have someone take your picture at your booth set-up. To bad you couldn't have the game by the booth. How are sales going? Very much interest?

#944 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I also go another plug from Steve Richie about LED's. He was discussing using them selectively in older games and that he likes them tastefully done..."Like Mark's High Speed". Cool guy.

Looks like you made a friend.

1 week later
#959 9 years ago

I just picked up a new Space Station pf so my vote is for a clear Space Station ramp. But my question to you Mark is (knowing you) how could you make it better.

3 weeks later
#968 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I have to say this for the record.
Freeplay40 has done incredible work with his clear ramp.
If you own a Highspeed, and you haven't upgraded to this sexy fast clear ramp, end the hesitation, and get one now.
It's like I have a new game...
You never know when one little tweak takes your game to a whole new level.
-mof

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Very true.

2 weeks later
#977 9 years ago
Quoted from uphamj:

Freeplay40,
I love what you have done with your High Speed Pin. I am currently undergoing my first major restore. This started out to be just a shop out and play but turned into a much bigger project. I bought a F-14 Tomcat and a High Speed pinball for my 10 year anniversary in June. ( I should say my wife found them and said to get them). I have sent you a PM to see if you have any more ramps. I bought a new plastic set and black ramp (guess I can put it on Ebay ha ha) I figured I would upload a few pics to let everyone know what I am up against.
I have learned a lot from everyone on pinside and thanks.

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Yup you have your work cut out for you. Are the inserts level?

1 month later
#989 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Grrr... top edge of my tachometer lights have quit lighting up. I saw this happen once before, but the solution is eluding me.
Has anyone seen/solved this?
Ack, lamp matrix says 5k - 30k = 1J7-8, Q54 -- yikes. I'll try the connectors first.
Yep, just a loose connection at 1J7-8, no worries.
thanks,
-mof

That was an easy fix.

#995 9 years ago
Quoted from 5280wzrd:

Anyone know what this is, why it's here. Looks to be home fabricated.

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No idea, not on my game.

#999 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Ahhh...the best part...fresh out of the final bath...

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SEXY!!!

#1003 9 years ago
Quoted from uphamj:

You are going to make some HS owners very happy!!!!

You mean some "MORE" HS owners very happy.

#1011 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Need to figure out how to get a spotlight on the center spinner.

The San Diego Freeway spinner? Forget a spot light use a strip of 3/4 or 1in wide polished stainless steel, cut to the length of the spinner bracket, stick a Comet led strip (cut to however many leds you want for brightness) to the underside of the ss piece along the front edge and hot melt the part of the ss piece that doesn't have the led strip to the top of the spinner bracket with the led strip facing forward or backward your choice. That's what I would do. Something like this.
IMGA0891.JPGIMGA0891.JPG
IMGA0895.JPGIMGA0895.JPG

2 weeks later
#1015 9 years ago
Quoted from Blairally:

Can someone please tell me where this piece goes?

image.jpg 169 KB

...... I give up.

#1024 9 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Looking carefully at my High Speed cabinet I can see a healthy overlap of ~1/8" in some areas.

Yeah that's because at the factory they used big metal stencils and they weren't worried about the overlap because they had to do so many very quickly. I just did the front of my game because it was in such bad shape. Didn't turn out to bad but was a major pain because they didn't line up at all. Probably should have layed down the yellow first.I was just following the instructions from the stencil maker.

HS LEFT CORNER.JPGHS LEFT CORNER.JPG
HS FRONT SANDED7613.JPGHS FRONT SANDED7613.JPG
HS cab front primed.JPGHS cab front primed.JPG
IMGA0490.JPGIMGA0490.JPG
IMGA0500.JPGIMGA0500.JPG
IMGA0551.JPGIMGA0551.JPG
IMGA0552.JPGIMGA0552.JPG

IMGA0306.JPGIMGA0306.JPG
IMGA0307.JPGIMGA0307.JPG
IMGA0308.JPGIMGA0308.JPG

IMGA0309.JPGIMGA0309.JPG
2 weeks later
#1043 9 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

<---- Newest member.
Picking it up saturday morning.

$_3 (7).JPG 79 KB

$_3 (5).JPG 47 KB

$_3 (4).JPG 44 KB

$_3 (2).JPG 82 KB

Welcome to the club.

#1044 9 years ago
Quoted from Hotelone:

I've got Xpin green!

image-262.jpg 189 KB

That looks really nice.

1 month later
#1074 9 years ago

The only thing I can think of is the coil getting the proper voltage. Would low voltage cause the coil to be weak? I'm new at this kind of stuff so it's probably a dumb question.

3 weeks later
#1088 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

We did some bitchin mods to the High Speed, added a bucket seat, steering wheel, red wagon, including handle, and some pedals, hope y'all enjoy

343904.jpg 18 KB

Nice....you could use it when you go to shows to haul around all the stuff you bought.

#1091 9 years ago

Hey guys I have to leave the club, sold it and was picked up about an hour ago. Buyer was super impressed with the condition and was very happy to take it home. So carry on and I'll see ya on the flip side.

1 week later
#1102 9 years ago
Quoted from Speeddemon:

Going to been looking at one this weekend. The ball eject is not strong enough to reach the shooter lane. Any ideas what it could be? Looks like a cool game.

It needs a stiffer shooter spring, I put a red in mine and make sure you put a new shooter tip on.

#1111 9 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

I think he was saying the trough isn't strong enough to kick the ball into the shooter lane.

Your right.....how did I read that so wrong.

#1113 9 years ago
Quoted from mof:

No restoration is complete without a movie as proof of the fun achieved.
Enjoy!
-mof
» YouTube video

SUPER Now give us a lights on tour of your resto.

1 month later
#1136 9 years ago

Anybody want a new helicopter plastic, even has the protective plastic still on it. $20 as PayPal gift, shipped with tracking # and in a box. First pm gets it.

#1148 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Guys, please stop making me regret putting mine up for sale

To late for me, mines gone.....but I can still look at the purdy pictures.

1 week later
#1169 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

check this out... one would a nice addition behind a clear ramp maybe
http://www.microstru.com/N_Z_billboards.html

Seeing these signs what popped into my head was little ghosts in the mansion windows of Laseriffics new AMH topper. If you could make them fade in and out put about 6 in the windows. Cool or not cool?

#1171 9 years ago
Quoted from Tribonian:

Help! The post office claims to have delivered my new clear ramp from Mark D. but it is nowhere to be found. I need to find a replacement assembly but all I've found is the ramp itself from Marco. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

Oh crap, that's not good. Talk to the postman who delivers your mail.

#1175 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

They never ring my doorbell when they deliver...I just find the package when I look for it. UPS always rings the bell.

Mark, when you put a label on the package did you auto generate the label then print it out? I had a package sent to me with Aurich's Star Trek translite in it and it got lost because the auto generated zip code was wrong. Took a few weeks to get straightened out.

#1178 9 years ago
Quoted from Tribonian:

Package located! Whew. Don't know why USPS claimed delivery before it happened but so relieved it's here, I don't really care. Thanks for all the encouragement and leads.

Very good news.

#1180 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I'm so sad, my beautiful High Speed has found a home with a good friend... Thank you all for your wonderful inspiration and support, maybe one day when I have more room my baby will come back to play and I'll be official again
Here's a little parting gift
A link to my most recent instruction card find
http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/High-Speed-V2

image.jpg

I was sad to see mine go last month. Be strong.

#1182 9 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

This feels like system 11 loss anonymous
(Fun little support group that should have been, but never was)

Yeah it's always sad to see a game you worked so hard at to make it better then when you got it leave.

2 months later
#1233 8 years ago
Quoted from MrArt2u:

Changed flashers to 63s, everything is flashing like it should now. Odd but I'm not going to question it...

Not really, just not enough juice to light a 13v bulb.

1 week later
#1266 8 years ago
Quoted from mof:

I know you can sometimes get these new from BAA/PPS and others, but I saw this today, in case someone needed the wiring assembly side as well. (not mine)
-mof
ebay.com link » Williams High Speed Pinball Stop Light Assembly Plastic

WOW that's cheap.

4 months later
#1320 8 years ago
Quoted from scf:

Can post a pic so I can see it? I am considering buying one of these ramps. I am hoping the price comes down. Looks like it starts at $90.

It won't.

#1324 8 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

Freeplay40 is a great guy. For me it was well worth the money to send the parts to him and let him do the riveting.
I drilled out the rivets, from the parts on the old ramp and shipped them to him. He polished my ramp parts and then installed them on the new ramp.

Yup and if anyone other then a Pinsider were making and selling this you'd spend WAY more money.

#1327 8 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

If you were to wait on Starship Fantasy to do these...you'll be here for a while.
Top notch work from FreePlay40

That too and it wouldn't be an improved version too, just the same old black plastic one.

4 weeks later
2 months later
#1474 8 years ago
Quoted from pinballYeti:

Question for you guys. I've been getting a fair number of bounce-outs from the saucer (San Diego Freeway). When it happens the ball usually goes right back down the freeway but sometimes also to the right (down the Santa Monica Freeway). Has anyone else seen this and have a way to mitigate it? There is some PF wear around the saucer so I'm wondering if that bit of wear is making the difference so that the ball will sometimes escape the saucer.

Are the 2 little tabs that stick up in the saucer that cradle the ball when it's in there, are they still there? When I had the game one of them was busted off and I had some what of a problem like yours, replaced it and using a led flex lit it up from the underside and never had the problem again. That new one looked really cool lit up too.

#1479 8 years ago
Quoted from mof:

What tabs???

The 2 little tabs that stick up in the saucer.

#1481 8 years ago
Quoted from mof:

You mean the two pieces of the replaceable red plastic that stick up???
-mof

Yup.

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