(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

6 years ago

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  • 2,920 posts
  • 311 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by PPS
  • Topic is favorited by 152 Pinsiders


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#2642 5 months ago

Gentlemen, I'm helping my neighbor with his high speed. Its in pretty sad shape, but apparently working. Needs flippers, coils rubber etc. told him I'd help him out, but when looking into the game more, it looks as though someone has placed all sorts of screws and posts in places they don't seem to fit. So I have to replace some and need to know the correct ones for each location. Anyone have this info? Manual didn't seem to provide. Thanks.

#2645 5 months ago

yes, it appears this is one https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/530-5332-03 and the other
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4659-1 Looks like they drilled "extra" holes to make their posts fit

#2646 5 months ago
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#2647 5 months ago

looking at that last pic...is that the ramp that is cracked (black plastic?) Available? (guessing not)

#2654 5 months ago

Can someone tell me what this board does and the value of the fried resistor

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#2656 4 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Looks like a early snub board setup.... Does the game have black Bosch relays? O.K. I can see
the other style of relay... That game is a middle model of Williams High Speed.
You have the Snubber relay setup before Williams made the PCB version.

Ok, So do you know the value of the resistor or is there a better fix for it? Whats its purpose? Thanks

2 weeks later
#2670 4 months ago
Quoted from joew575:

grumpy the light blew the 2 amp fuse I will beep some help getting more power.

I found it on amazon they are 39.99 pm me I can send you a link

do you find it too bright? ...I know these strobing lights can be blinding....

#2672 4 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

if I'm seeing that correctly (orange-green-black-gold) then it is a 350 ohm 5% resistor

Found it in the manual now that I have the machine and manuals...

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#2678 4 months ago

Can someone tell me the capacitor values of the two ceramic disc caps on the flipper cabinet switches? ...One of mine is disintegrated

#2680 4 months ago
Quoted from TheCnyPinGuy:

these will work on High Speed Flipper Cabinet Switches
0.1uf 500v Ceramic Caps

Thank you sir, just got this game, my neighbor gave it to me...its a mess and will need a new playfield. Obviously routed, but the bones are solid and hacks are minimal. Currently rebuilding the power supply board and replacing all the connectors with trifurcon connectors, nvram on the way. Going to get it back together when the boards are done and see if there are any obvious electrical issues other than the ones I've already found before I break it all down for a complete refurb. Looking forward to this project.

#2686 4 months ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

I also keep checking their site and see no sign of a High Speed re-run. Why wouldn't this have a sign up list? I would love to get a new playfield.

I believe they said within the next month or so...patiently waiting

2 weeks later
#2719 3 months ago

If you wind up deciding to replace the coils, consider changing them over to the parallel type coils. You'll have to upgrade the brackets to accommodate the newer style spring, but they're cheap enough. Vid has a great tutorial on changing them over...

1 week later
#2732 3 months ago

Playfields are now up for sale on CPR....Get em while they're hot!

#2734 3 months ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Having recently just installed a Hardtop, I have to say I’m happy with the result.
A $300 solution seems more appropriate for a $1500-2000 pin, but I can definitely understand that $800+ is worth it for some people - especially a proper collector’s quality machine.

My playfield was so bad...holes drilled where there should not be, broken wood behind posts...quite the mess...but yeah not a high value machine, but it was given to me...so doesn't hurt too bad....

1 week later
#2767 89 days ago

...and so it begins...these playfields are way better than the original

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#2771 89 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Hey monkfe, is that a CPR play field? I ordered one and waiting impatiently for it to arrive.

Yes just unwrapped it!

1 week later
#2793 76 days ago

Anyone replace their factory speaker with two speakers?...I reached out to pinsound...said they are working on the early system 11 games and this game specifically, but "a work in progress "...my machine was down so I was filling my down time with replacing them...I removed the fabric and speaker screen, which pretty much destroys it as the glue sticks to it pretty good, I found replacement screen from pinball life. Two 4x6 speakers from Amazon some #8 T nuts...found new fabric on ebay...... Don't forget your thin blue line
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#2800 73 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Where? I can't seem to find it.

I had to email them directly.....they have it though....

#2803 70 days ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

Where? I can't seem to find it.

I assumed you were asking about the speaker screen- from Pinball life? The speaker fabric I purchased on ebay just do a search for speaker mesh speaker grill cloth etc....

#2806 68 days ago

cliffy sells replacement metal ball guides shown above that have tighter clearances and that you may want to look at (mine were pretty banged up with a lip from the ball hitting it).. I believe he also has some tips to remove these...but I simply took my dremel and ground down the lip only on the top of the spacer. when it gets to the point where its ground flush with the top of the ball guide, it simply pops out. leave the short portion that extends into the metal guide and it should slip in nicely to the new one....the plastic ones can be done like suggested above with a soldering iron...pretty straight forward. Be sure to order the enhanced version as he also makes the original one too.

3 weeks later
#2844 42 days ago
Quoted from ViperJelly:

What is the most likely cause if none of my special solenoids are firing (slings, pops, rear flasher). All other coils are working fine, including flippers. New rottendog board.

I just went through a lot of issues with these special solenoids after putting my playfield back together. First is the fuse (2.5amp) good on the power supply board. (either f2 or f4 I don't recall exactly) I believe that wire(red/white stripe) supplies power to all those solenoids. I had made an adjustment on one of my pop bumpers and when I turned the machine on it would immediately lock up the coil and blow the fuse. Start there....

1 week later
#2852 34 days ago
Quoted from killborn:

Hey guys, can someone please tell me if I need to add another violet wire to this connector on my High Speed?
The second picture is another pinsider's High Speed and it has 2 violet wires coming out of the connector to the Board. Mine is the first pic, and I only have one violet wire. I'm going to install the Inkochnito rectifier board next week and I just want to make sure I'm good without that second wire.
(Update): this was answered in a different thread. I am going to add the wire to help distribute the flow of electricity.
So this is how mine is when I broke my machine down...whats the purpose of adding another wire?
[quoted image][quoted image]

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#2853 34 days ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Can anyone give me a list of all the Capacitors I should replace on the CPU board, as I can't read the schematics I've got as they are somewhat blurry.
Also what caps are on the switches for the pop bumpers please, as I have no info on these.
Thank you for any help

As I recall...the pop bumper axial lead caps were 22 uf, the mpu caps should be able to be read right off the board...get that phone camera out and zoom in!

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#2862 31 days ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

I think my brain is failing.....or its been a long week at work.
Can some one please confirm the following for me please....
Capacitors on the CPU, right been looking and I think this is right......PFD caps are pf caps and uf is the same as mfd caps
Thank you for any help.

Yes I believe that is correct

#2868 26 days ago

I don't believe so...mine were acting up too and had to remove it...had to remove the pins too from the Molex connector to feed the wire through the playfield

#2870 23 days ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

Did this mod ever make it off the ground?

Yes, hes working on it...I should be getting a prototype any day now....

#2873 20 days ago

Freeplay40 ramp decals- been working with Mr_tantrum to develop these ramp decals for Freeplay's ramps...we also came up with one for under the ramp for that metal bracket that sticks out. Came out pretty sweet, designed it with the seam in the center if you dont want to remove your ramp switches, but its worth the effort to go the distance.
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#2876 20 days ago
Quoted from Clizifer:

where can we get the road base decal for the ramps?

Reach out to Mr_tantrum here on pinside

#2878 17 days ago

I would check your power supply board connectors...all of them for that matter. See how much tension are on the pins as you remove the connector. it can tell you of the contact pressure they're making on the header...look for burns etc. check your power supply voltages

#2883 15 days ago
Quoted from Chynnalou:

On power board the Display pins check +101.0,-101.0 and 4.96. Logic power pins all 4.9 and +12.64, -14.76. Solenoid power pins all at 35.0. 18vdc pins check at 17.0. Special relay pin checks 35.0. Gen. ill. 6.3vac pins check 2.85 using ground test post. Not sure if that is proper ground.

Can you observe the 5v and go through a coil test(one at a time)...see if any particular coil affects the 5v

#2890 15 days ago
Quoted from finman2000:

Thank you for the feedback. Is this a common problem with HS machines? Do I have the correct screw?

This is the one I have on mine...no clearance issues https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4006-01027-06

#2903 11 days ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

Hi All,
Just upgrading the flippers to Vid's guide, and have come across what I would see as a big problem.
I have renewed everything except the bats
When fitting the bats to adjust the eos & lane change switches (out of the play-field) I noticed that the shaft for the bat slops around in the new bushing quite a lot.
Is this normal or is it because I am using the original bats and new bushing, or the new bushing is wrong (all the parts were as what Vid listed on the rebuild/upgrade) The bat shaft is 6.3mm 0r 0.2480" The bushing hole is 6.6mm or 0.2598" is the ok as they move quite a lot.
Thank you for any help on this.

What are the part numbers of the parts you used? Pics?

#2905 11 days ago

.011 doesn't seem like too much play to me...there is a small bit of "wiggle", but other than that they're snug. You said they were on the bench, we're not talking about "up and down" play here correct? Which would be adjusted by the clamp and gauge once installed.

#2907 9 days ago

you said" The bat shaft is 6.3mm 0r 0.2480" The bushing hole is 6.6mm or 0.2598" is the ok as they move quite a lot." So that's a clearance of .011, not .11 which is a huge difference...I measured my bat shaft and it measures 6.6mm as well. I don't have a spare bushing to measure that for you.

1 week later
#2918 3 days ago
Quoted from MrExtrm:

Doesn't play, has "adjust failure" fault that can't get cleared as there is no key to get to the diagnostic controls

as I recall I believe that comes up after the batteries are replaced. easy to get rid of...but yeah...need that key

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