(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.


By lordloss

6 years ago



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#10 6 years ago

First game and still have. Original topper and helicopter plastics are missing quite often.

2 months later
#78 6 years ago
Quoted from toyotaboy:

Just made my shifter knob plunger this morning

For those that want to make this shifter rod, buy one of these:
ebay.com link » 4 Speed Gear Shift Shifter Knob White Ball 1 1 2 Diameter 5 16 18 Thread Size
Drill out the smaller brass thread up to 3/8 (starting with smallest first and working up of course). If you drill very slowly, you can hold the ball with your hand. If you go fast, it will likely catch the thread and stop.
Once you have a 3/8" hole, simply pound in one of these shooter rods with a rubber mallet (hit the ball, rest the rod against a piece of wood)
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1608

Nice mod. Looks good. I did the same thing with a aluminum shifter knob with red letters. All my car pins have different style shifter knobs for shooter handles.

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1 month later
#258 6 years ago

Did some mild mods. Found some extra tree plastic and made higher levels of trees for a 3d effect. Custom shooter rod,changed flippers,lighted flipper buttons,pinball pro sound,full LEDs.

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#260 6 years ago

Thanks Pinball center in Germany I think,it was a long time ago when I bought them. They are the same company that sells apron cards that light up. They have a lot of hard to find stuff. Good luck. Google pinballcenter eu

#295 6 years ago

Think I'm a little obsessed with this game. It was my first. You never forget your first. Plate is from translite and you guys should recognize the freeway signs from the game. image.jpgimage.jpg

#296 6 years ago

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1 month later
#467 6 years ago

Interested in ramp also.

3 weeks later
#585 6 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I've kept this pretty quiet until now and it has only been shown in this High Speed club thread. So far I think there are about 20 who have expressed interest here, so I plan to take care of everyone here first if they are still interested. It will still take me a few days to build some jigs for the cutouts. I hope to have finished ramps certainly inside of a week and will contact by PM in order of response. If anyone is curious, about a list, just look back through this thread...started on page 9.

I am also interested in your clear ramp. Please put me on your list. Thanks

1 week later
#649 6 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

If anyone is interested in having me rivet/assemble the ramp for them ($20) so that it will be a straight install when you get it, you would need to send me the parts shown in the attached photo. You would need to remove these from your existing ramp.
From left to right...
Diverter switch plate (Send with wire harness attached and I will clean and adjust the switches when I assemble. Also note that I will modify the plate slightly...grind some metal away...in order to rivet tightly)
Diverter switch plate cover (Optional to send...attaches to the diverter switch plate with 2 screws)
Right hand side mounting bracket (Mounts to right side rail)
Outer left side mounting plate (Screws to playfield)
Inner left side ball guide (Rivets to ramp and outer left side mounting bracket.
As you can see my inner ball guide is pretty beat up. I am going to replace mine with a polished piece of .0100 spring steel... thin and strong. Will post a photo of that as well. If anyone has any questions about how to remove the existing ramp let me know...God knows I've taken mine in and out about a dozen times now.

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PM sent for mailing address.

#655 6 years ago

I went mirror red flippers and yellow rubbers. Matches the apron colors very good.

#656 6 years ago

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#658 6 years ago

Thanks. The pinball life pin gulp also matches the flippers.

#660 6 years ago

Any issues mounting the traffic light?

#664 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Where did you get the flippers from?
-mof

German company. They are the same ones who sell lighted apron cards.Pinball Center . They have a lot of unique stuff. Pinball decals might also have same color but pricey.

#665 6 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

German company. They are the same ones who sell lighted apron cards.Pinball Center . They have a lot of unique stuff. Pinball decals might also have same color but pricey.

Red metallic was the coor. They have flipper buttons to match if you are not in yo the lighted flipper button movement.

#666 6 years ago

Removed my old ramp to send out parts. The power cord for the dive rotors was a PITA to get through the small play field hole.

#684 6 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Hmmm... My game does not have that extra support loop. My ramp edges are flat as opposed to the rounded ones on the stock ramp. Since I don't know the alignment of that loop support, think I will ship without the holes drilled for the stop light. That way you can be sure of alignment. I'm going to move my stoplight into the back left corner and mount vertically.
Should have the first dozen ramps ready tomorrow.. Ones in the photo are basically done. just need to rivet the flaps,

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Do you have to extend the stoplight wiring to relocate it to back corner. Can you post a picture of where you are going to put it? Thanks

#699 6 years ago

I like the new position of the stoplight. Anyone consider painting the open spot under the ramp that is bare and can be seen with the new ramp?

#736 6 years ago

Now I get it. Thanks Mark

#741 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Question...which warming resistor(s) control the 2 bare 89 flashers on the very back of the pf. I'd like to change them to leds.

Anyone know this? Mine are not working at all. Where can you find replacement resistors?

#749 6 years ago
Quoted from Pacer:

The resistors that control these are on a board under the playfield. They use the rectangular (box-like) "mortar" resistors. The vibration from being under the playfield often causes a lead from these to break. I forget the values for the resistors, but they are commonly available at marco, etc.

Thanks did not realize Marco has them.

#763 6 years ago

Clear ramp came today and looks great. Thanks for polishing the brackets and adjusting the switches Mark. Worth every penny.

#770 6 years ago

Installed ramp today and relocated stoplight. All is fine but used factory holes for ramp flap and brackets. Could not get it to lineup flush with play field . Tried to move ramp back to line up but not lined up correctly.the difference in heights is sometimes causing air balls going up ramp. Mark ,did you see any of this in testing and did your ramp flaps match even with play field? I must be doing something wrong.

#771 6 years ago

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#774 6 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Still got my phone number? Call me

Thanks for the help. Was able to bend tip of flap slightly and tweaked screw hole locations No more air balls.

#777 6 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Great going MJW....now how does it play?

Plays very good. Does seem quieter as Mark said. Clear ramp and relocated stoplight really update the game.

#794 6 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Mod proposal:
RADAR GUN !!!
Why:
I think it would be fun to rate how fast your orbit shots are, this would likely be a direct correlation to how big of a score you'll get from the spinner.
MUST have:
1. Install a real radar gun at the entrance to the orbit.
2. Install a small 3-digit display for the speed output.
3. Speed should blink 3 times quickly, then vanish.
NICE to have:
1. ability to convert actual speed into a range of MPH that seems fast (100-150 MPH, etc)
Possible workarounds for a real radar gun...
1. "Calculate" the speed from the "actual revolutions per second of the spinner", (over any 1-second sample) and then convert it to a fictitious MPH in the (100-150) range.
2. This should work off both spinners.
3. The faster spinner wins the calculation at any time.
I know it's just a fantasy, but you NEVER know when some genius can make something happen on these forums...
-mof

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Data east checkpoint has a speed detection feature. I own the game but not sure how it works.

3 weeks later
#928 6 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Which Shooter Spring are you guys using?
I've got the red one installed at the moment from marco spec. it feels a little too strong.

Mine red with clear ramp and works well. You could try some weaker ones but red is what the stock game calls for to make it up the ramp.

5 months later
#1056 5 years ago

Tried installing a dk power tap on my rottendog power supply board. Wanted to get power for under cab LEDs. Game cuts out and does not want to start with power tap installed.

Disconnected power tap and game works fine. I'm contacting dk to see if I can return.
I'll come up with another method for 12vols.

3 months later
#1137 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Anybody want a new helicopter plastic, even has the protective plastic still on it. $20 as PayPal gift, shipped with tracking # and in a box. First pm gets it.

I also might have one or two used. No protective plastic though.

1 month later
#1185 5 years ago

Very nice flame. Definitely the most modded high speed around. Interesting mods. Purists probably would not like but I do.

1 month later
#1203 5 years ago
Quoted from Leeb18509:

Got the clear ramp back from Mark today. Had to go ahead and get it in there asap..very nice!

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Clear ramp is a great upgrade. Relocated my stoplight to back left corner. Got tired of stoplight cover coming off. Freeplay did a great job with these.

6 months later
#1391 4 years ago

I don't seeca trial board in my backbox Tim.

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3 weeks later
#1396 4 years ago

May I suggest green colored nuts for your tree plastics. They blend in much better.

1 week later
#1417 4 years ago

Hope these help.

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1 year later
#1703 3 years ago

Just listed a used transformer for sale cheap. Works but needs new wires and connector spiced. Game must have been left on forever when routed. Wire insulation melted together. Heavy item. Must pay actual shipping. This may be a cheap solution for someone needing this part.

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5 months later
#1797 2 years ago

Grumpy is always helping us out . He knows his stuff and shares it . People like Grumpy keep me in this hobby without spending a fortune on $75.00 per hour service calls. He's a great guy.

2 months later
#1880 2 years ago

These are no longer on the site for some reason. Should have jumped on them when I had the chance . Maybe planetary pinball complained about using Williams artwork? (There are no Williams games cabinet decals listed)

3 weeks later
#1903 2 years ago

Just listed a set of displays and control board in market place if anyone needs them. Everything worked except credit/ball in play display. Might have been bad ribbon cable but never checked it out. PM me if interested.

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1 month later
#1904 2 years ago

Pictures are for Grumpy. No insert flashers in back box or right red playfield flashers working. Getting voltages at only two of the six flasher sockets.

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#1905 2 years ago

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#1906 2 years ago

Hey Grumpy, I started tracing wires back from backbox flashers. Look at the green wire smashed under that bolt head. That can't be a good thing. Looks like wire is for G.I. And not flashers though.

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#1909 2 years ago

They are standard bulbs. I replaced two of them and now have 30volts at each socket. All flasher lamps work in test mode. I did not realize that one bad bulb stops the flow. Thank!!!! Do I use the same troubleshooting steps for the right red playfield flashers?

#1910 2 years ago

Replaced both bulbs on right side playfield red and now they work in test mode. Boy do I feel dumb. The 63s burnt out as you stated. Learned a lot. Was going by manual but didn't realize 63 have shorter lifespan. Thanks as always for your time. I'll check to see if flasher come on in game mode and then fix that pinched wire.

#1913 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If there are #63 bulbs, then they are in pairs as this type of bulb is only 7 volts. First find the power at the first bulb then second bulb then resistor lastly the cpu board transistor. Did the new flashers work now?

Yes to confirm all flashers are working. Happy camper and appreciate it. Thanks.

2 months later
#1965 2 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

Here is the red ramp that Freeplay40 made for me. I really think it looks nice in the game. I love how the 2 flashers in the far back of the playfield shine through it when they go off.

Very nice. Have you ever considered relocating the stoplight? Looks better at back of game in my opinion. Pretty sure Freeplay 40 came up with that.

#1967 2 years ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Has anyone come up with a good option for covering the white area/lights under the clear ramp when installed with relocated traffic light? I know some ideas were thrown around in this thread in the past, but were any actually done?
I really, really like the clear ramp, but I don’t like that area being visible, it just looks like something’s missing to me. I may end up getting a clear ramp and just keep the traffic light in it’s original spot.

Some have used a road decal on the clear ramp. Doesn't cover area completely ...

3 weeks later
#2002 2 years ago
Quoted from LGFAutos:

That's ok BallyPinWiz, thanks for letting us know.
Looking at XPin displays not a bad price as comes with all the display units and the driver for them.

I'm running the xpin displays and am very happy with them... They make quality products. Power supplies are really nice.

6 months later
#2210 1 year ago

Anyone ever have a switch register in test mode but not in gameplay? Both left hideout switches work fine in test with a ball but not working during gameplay. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

#2213 1 year ago

Ok I read through the thread. Are you referring to reference of pink connector on switch? Couldn’t find anything else related to my problem. Maybe I’m missing something.... thanks.

#2215 1 year ago

Ok. I’ll check it out. Thanks !

3 weeks later
#2217 1 year ago
Quoted from martimagico:

I had the same issue on the left side hideout lower switch. it's losing its "click" i adjusted the switch closer to the PF, that is working for now.

Thanks. So your switch worked in test but not in gameplay ? I will also look at the connector Grumpy suggested. Been busy with other games....

#2228 1 year ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

I have one that’s not melted but some of the tabs are broken off. If he could make a good replica I’d be happy to send mine. I’ve been trying to track down an nos one for a long time with no luck.

Same here. I think I have an extra one with one tab broken off. Should still be in coin box.

#2229 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

Same here. I think I have an extra one with one tab broken off. Should still be in coin box.

If Terry can’t use Bellogios let me know . Found my extra one and it appears to have all the tabs. I moved and modded my traffic light ...

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#2232 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

This is awesome. I will let him know and see what he comes back with tomorrow. Maybe you can e-mail him too and let him know you have an nos one in good shape to use for the 3d model?
This could be huge to have that available, basically forever.
I hope this all works out.
Thanks guys!

Ok . Bought this years ago but can’t remember from who. Might have been Bay Area amusements. Would be nice if Terry could make a stock for people needing them. Without all the tabs it tends to fall off when mounted in the normal position.

#2236 1 year ago

I sent Terry an email.

#2242 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

I saw that too, not into it myself. Id like something more original.
Hopefully this all works out good!

Terry responded and I will mail the traffic light to Pinball Life tomorrow.

#2245 1 year ago

No problem. I hope it can be replicated with whatever printer Terry is using. Steve Nz thinks it has to be a SLS printer . I have no idea what that is.

#2249 1 year ago
Quoted from kermit24:

Looks like it is $420 actually. Big Daddy has been doing early preorders /sales and K’s Arcade has it listed at $420.

Glad to see it’s going to be an option. Hard to find original high speed system 11 mpu.

#2255 1 year ago

Terry from Pinball life sent me an update. The stoplight is not looking like a good candidate for the type of 3D printer they have access to. I’ll post if I hear anything further.

#2266 1 year ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Bummer that Terry can’t make it, much appreciated if you can figure out a way!

Terry has not given up yet. He’s getting a quote from someone with a high end printer . Probably won’t be cost effective but he’s looking in to it. I’ll keep the club posted.

#2281 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What is the best way to protect the playfield from further damage?

I’m sure you know there are playfield protectors.. I have one and am happy with it.

#2286 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I have heard that the newest version playfield protectors are very good. Is yours the new thinner version?
Clear coating sounds like a real pain in the neck.
If i could find one...the official release of the new high speed playfields would probably be the best option, though im sure it would be quite expensive...if you could find one, of course.

Pretty sure mines an older one. Didn’t have to adjust any switches and no problems. Protector seems to be the Easiest and cheapest route. I think you can buy an overlay also .

1 week later
#2318 1 year ago

Terry from Pinball Life has informed me that the stoplight 3D printer project is not cost effective. He is returning my original stop light that was used as a sample.

#2320 1 year ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Is the shapeways stoplight of no interest?

Don’t know. I do not need one . Just submitted mine for an example . Maybe you could post a link for people missing stoplight. How does it look?

#2323 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

I just stopped by and spoke briefly with Terry today and picked up the one example that was made. It looks great and fits perfect, but it would have to be priced at around $50 to make cents, so there is probably not going to be any demand for that part at that price to make it worth while. It was also clear coated after it was made. Possibly in the future as the 3d printing industry evolves and costs come down......?
MJW Thanks so much for volunteering up your traffic light for an example to give all of this a try. It is much appreciated!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

No problem. Glad you got the prototype. Looks good.

#2324 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

No problem. Glad you got the prototype. Looks good.

Now to find you a bumper cap......

#2328 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Hah yeah shes a little beat up. Waiting on that hardtop
Did you miss the painted on stop light on the playfield next to it? Lol

I totally did. Lol. Custom mod.

1 month later
#2383 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Thanks for all the advice!
I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?
Since this will be my first table, I’m inclined to leave it. Plan is to fix up some of the minor cosmetics (e.g.: broken beacon light), enjoy it for a while, then sell/trade for the next.

I removed my Mylar with compressed air in a can turned upside down to freeze the Mylar. Came out nice.

#2393 1 year ago
Quoted from Hammerhead:

How do you get the glue off? Is there a risk of taking paint off in the process?

I used lighter fluid. Forget what the chemical is called in it.

#2394 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

That’s encouraging. Not expecting perfection, but presume you didn’t suffer too much paint loss in the process?
Also, did you clear coat it after or just re-Mylar?

No paint loss but others have not been so lucky. I should have warned about the risks. Most recommend to leave alone unless affecting gameplay. I chose to go with a playfield protector.

#2395 1 year ago
Quoted from MJW:

I used lighter fluid. Forget what the chemical is called in it.

Not sure if there is a risk of paint loss with this chemical. I learned about this in one of Vids threads.

#2396 1 year ago

Naphtha

10 months later
#2899 7 months ago

Finally figured out why my left upper hide out switch was not registering. Micro switch small screws came loose and the Cherry switch Kept moving. Nice to be at 100% on the game.

1 month later
#2943 6 months ago

Planetary pinball is also now selling stoplights from original tooling.

3 weeks later
#3006 5 months ago
Quoted from MikeVarney:

I'd be interested in the answer to #2 as well. I already have all LEDs and you can hear the change in background him when the lights cycle, especially in attract mode.

Same here. Full LED and I have the hum.

#3009 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

My High Speed Had the hum also. I was not intentionally trying to fix the hum but I needed a new power supply. I ordered a 3rd party Powersupply (don't recall the brand right now) instated it and the hum went away. food for thought. re-capping stock power supply may help as well.

Thanks but I also have a new 3rd party power supply.

#3016 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Another source is boards not properly grounded. Have you checked to make sure everything is grounded very well!

All the boards have every screw and ground straps are all secure. There are a couple threads on this issue but not having any success. Thanks.

#3024 5 months ago

Some guy in Canada selling these on eBay. Looks pretty good. Matches spinners and attaches with Velcro.

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#3028 5 months ago
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#3029 5 months ago

I had Tantrums caution high speed decal first but new one looks better.

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#3030 5 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

I had Tantrums caution high speed decal first but new one looks better.[quoted image]

Quoted from sataneatscheese:

I found the issue that was causing a loud buzzing while in attract mode. It is a grounding issue with the potentiometer (volume knob) itself. I was in the process of switching out the potentiometer (which I did but used too small of one so now it's even louder) when I ran out of butane for my soldering iron. The red and black wires were left unplugged so no sound should be coming through the machine right? Wrong! I have sound at a reasonable level. I'd like to turn it up a little, but it is just fine for my house for now and I will leave it as be until I can get the correct part in.
As a side effect THE HUMMING NOISE WENT AWAY!!! I also discovered that if I touch the black wire to the grounding plate the potentiometer is on, the humming noise comes back. So, if you have issues with a loud humming noise going in concert with your lighting, it is most likely a grounding issue with the speaker wire with a prime suspect being an older poteniometer bent into the grounding plate.
Below is an extremely low quality video describing the buzz and how to possibly fix it.
Thanks guys!

Thanks for posting. I’ll try mine.

#3031 5 months ago
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4 weeks later
#3082 4 months ago
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2 weeks later
#3160 4 months ago

Four pin connector causing boot problems. Picture fo Grumpy.

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#3165 4 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

That does not look like a board for High Speed. Why do you say that GI plug is causing boot problems?
Here is a picture from my High Speed PS board[quoted image]

It’s a Rottendog replacement power board.

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#3166 4 months ago
Quoted from MJW:

It’s a Rottendog replacement power board.[quoted image]

Problem seemed to be when the four pin connector was disturbed. Grumpy thinks I may have broken a trace on 6 or 12 pin connector. Going back to stock board.

#3168 4 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Was there some reason you went away from the original board? I shipped mine all off for full rebuild, always prefer to just use original if possible. But my Eight Ball Deluxe does have an Alltek (came that way) in it.

As I was telling Grumpy ,when I first got in the hobby thought Rottendog would be more reliable than old original. Have learned that rebuilt originals and X pin boards are very reliable.

#3169 4 months ago

Better picture. Going back to rebuilt stock ...

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#3199 4 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

In the meantime try pushing this pin into the connector more with a small screwdriver.[quoted image]

Will do. Thanks.

#3252 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

In the meantime try pushing this pin into the connector more with a small screwdriver.[quoted image]

Hey Grumpy . I noticed the connector you circled is burnt at bottom right pin. Do you have a connector I could get from you or a part number? What size pins? Thanks.

#3258 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

12 pin male connector .093 size. Yes I have the connector and pins, do you have a crimping tool?

I have a ratcheting one that I use for edge connectors. Same tool?

#3259 3 months ago
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#3262 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That should work just fine.

Don’t you sleep? Lol.

#3303 3 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So shiny![quoted image][quoted image]

Cool. Mine is 89044.

#3304 3 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

MJW:
I am up to my eyebrows in molex connector research. This is the connector you are looking for:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0003091126/WM1337-ND/61336

Thanks Pin Pilot. That looks to be the one. Grumpy is hooking me up with that connector band pins. Much appreciated though.

#3325 3 months ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

I recall this issue well. If you absolutely want to get an original A-11047, I found one at PBR.
The problem is that it’s really hard to adjust the actuator arm on top of the switch without breaking it. It’s only held to the switch by a thin plastic pivot. If that plastic is broken, the switch is not repairable. It’s VERY easy to break, don’t ask me how I know...
I replaced it with the newer version of the switch, 5647-12693-20. It’s a DB3 microswitch with the same actuator arm, but the arm is attached over the top of the switch. It can be easily adjusted without breaking anything. The worst you can do is pop it off, and if you do you can just reattach it. You will also need to attach a diode.

Good info.

1 month later
#3499 68 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Mine behaves like this when the diverter fails to properly divert the ball to the hideout it wants to go into. I continue to have various issues with the switches triggering too late (I guess?) or not at all... Which makes me think they're gapped too far apart. But then on occasion they'll register a ramp shot when I make it halfway or if I completely miss the ramp entrance and smack the side or something..as if maybe they're gapped too closely. Lol. It continues to be a thorn in my side. But my MPU is out for now and headed back to Missouri again so HS is dark in my row for a bit.
Good luck with the ramp. It's the bane of my existence.

I’ve noticed this also. If you hit the ramp too fast the left divertor switch didn’t even see it coming.

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