Just joined the club tonight. Woot!

I just replaced all my HS targets with new ones. The old ones aren't the prettiest but they all worked. I could send them your way for cheap + shipping. I also have a brand new ramp I didn't use and some plastics as well. Let me know if you're interested.

Got the clear ramp back from Mark today. Had to go ahead and get it in there asap..very nice!

20150501_191234.jpg

Those came with the CPR plastic set. I threw one in the box for you.

Big help here for me when I forgot a few angles on the camera.

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Whridlsoncestood/library/Pinball%20Restorations/High%20Speed/Teardown?sort=3&page=1

And on the diverter, mine does the same thing. I get the 2 phantom pops on the right hideout. I was thinking maybe a new re-built strong upper flipper is just too fast for the diverter to catch the ball? The switches are pretty far up the ramp. I haven't looked closely at my RG in awhile but that game works fine.

Not directly, but it's almost as if it's coded that when the ramp switches are activated, the ball "should have been" diverted so the hideout coils fire regardless. Our complaint is that the ball doesn't get caught by the diverter so it continues down the right side of the ramp back into play. A few seconds later the right side hideout on mine pops like a ball is in there. Not sure if this is normal or not. A lot of games have backup scenarios for when things break on site.

Game is new to me as well, so I've watched a few videos like Bowen's PAPA tutorial to compare behavior.

I ordered one from here. Didn't take too long at all even coming from Germany.
ebay.com link: Clear Plastic for Williams High Speed Pinball Machine

I had to ask as well. Just follow the diode. Put the wires on the banded side lug to the banded side lug of the new target, and the wires on the "blank" lug to the same on the new. I did every target and they all worked. (amazingly) It doesn't matter where the lugs are physically, or that they're different.

Sorry, looking closer at your pic the white/purple go on the non-banded side, so do that.

I was speaking in general terms to just match the orientation of the lugs (banded/non-banded) regardless of how the switch is put together physically.

My flashers in the very back aren't working either after I put mine together, need to look into it. But just some FYI, the flashers should all be #63's, not #89's. 7 volt bulb vs. 13 volt. Although, that's not the reason why yours isn't working at the moment. (I don't think)

Those are front mounted targets for the stoplights. The red ones for the 1,2,3, etc. are rear mounted targets, if those are the ones you're looking for. I couldn't find them anywhere so I bought orange (matches the inserts anyway) and drilled new holes under the PF since the originals were "single file" mounts, not side by side like the new target.

Or you could go crazy with a rivet gun...

Plus he moves all the hardware over for you which most of us aren't equipped to do, and you'd be stuck doing with a new black ramp for $100. Clear ramp is a huge NO-brainer!

Manual can be found here. http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1176

Yeah, the quality can vary on those. My manual is at home.

Does it work at all? Test mode? Mine used to stick sometimes, and it I wapped on the dome it would start working.

I don't have one but there's one in here somewhere.

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Whridlsoncestood/library/Pinball%20Restorations/High%20Speed?sort=3&page=1

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Whridlsoncestood/library/Pinball%20Restorations/High%20Speed/Teardown?sort=3&page=1