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Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ksuwildcatfan.
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I've officially reached peak levels of "meh"with the shooter lane on my hardtop, and I'm willing to try an idea my friend threw out: waterslide decals, under a white painted lane. Does anyone have or know where I could find a high-res photo of a bare playfield with a nice shooter lane, taken directly above? Bonus points if there's something in the photo my wife can use for size reference to properly scale prior to printing the decal.
I tried clearing a bunch of times but I was getting a ton of fisheyes, especially on the edges of the lane. So I tried painting like vid detailed.. It looked bad so I wiped it off and tried gray.. Also bad..
I've been stuck for weeks just trying to get something that looks 'acceptable' so I can move forward.
Guess I should have clarified. I'm trying to install said hardtop.. It's nothing to do with the hardtop itself.
Quoted from waveman:Remembered that HEP recently painted a shooter lane and exposed wood areas in a wood tone and thought you might find that interesting as a reference: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/120#post-5424026
I'm so jealous of the amount of skill and precision there. I'm in way over my head and just fumbling around in the dark like an idiot.
Still working on my hardtop install on my high speed but I've found two issues:
Several LED bulbs are having issues flashing correctly according to the program (especially bad in the center bonus matrix -- they're fine with 44s). The 1-2-3 inserts were having similar issues--1 and 3 wouldn't go off, but 2 seemed to be blinking properly. Any suggestions? Maybe some bad diodes? I tried non ghosting bulbs but that didn't seem to make much (if any) difference. Boards have already been completely refurbished.
Issue 2, I KNOW I don't have everything fully back together on this (I still need to solder all topside flashers back in and I need to finish reassembly with pops, rollovers, wireforms, etc but after hooking it all back up (originally just to look at the GI because I wanted to make sure I would like the bulbs I chose before I started stacking things on top) I'm only getting a few solenoids to respond in the test:
Police light
Insert flasher
GI (11)
Knocker
Coin lockout
Left sling
Right sling
All three jet bumpers
I checked all the fuses I could think of and they all had continuity. I checked under the PF to see if there was some oddball fuse like there is on F14.. But saw nothing. I have NOT yet tried to manually fire any coils on the transistors themselves. Am I just jumping the gun on expecting my solenoids to work, given my progress with the hardtop? I wasn't specifically looking at that right now, but now my head is wrapped around trying to figure out why..
IMG_20200308_214117 (resized).jpgJust judging from throwing a ball around a bit inside on mine, it's crazy how much smoother it is than before. I kind of knew what to expect, having bought a hardtopped space shuttle, but it's like glass. I'm excited to see how it alters the play of an already fast Ritchie game.. If I can figure out why my solenoids suddenly aren't working, anyway 
Ahahaha I just figured that out. My God. I used hex screws to reassemble and that's why I was confused.
Alright, scoring fixed on the slings after my super duhhhhh blonde moment. Still at a complete loss on why so many solenoids are out all of a sudden. Fuses are good, connections are good, I'm at a loss.
And holy crap, this thing is doing some weeeeeeird stuff with the LEDs under the inserts. The backglass looks decent now though.
IMG_20200309_215059 (resized).jpgI only got voltage measurements on the lugs of the coil for slings when they were actually firing..?
I did notice that my f2 fuse (solenoids) is 5A (sheet says 2.5) and special solenoids is a 3A (sheet says 2.5). I sure hope that 5A fuse didn't let something fry itself... The boards were already sent off to be completely rebuilt once. 
Plugs all look fine and I don't see anything 'off' but come to think of it, I don't think I've ever had a successful test since getting these boards back. I started sanding down my playfield a month before these shipped to me so this is the first time since receiving them back that I've actually tried to start up and play a game..
Didn't get a chance to test those for voltage but did get a chance to do some diagnosing with fuses (and rechecked all plugs, both in cab and in back box) and now I'm really confused. My pops and slings age tied to that F4 fuse, NOT F2. Isn't F2 supposed to be for 'specialty' solenoids (which slings and pops are supposed to be.. Right)?
I'll test the voltages tonight when I'm back home again.
Quoted from GRUMPY:You need to only have one test lead on the coil and the other should be on the ground braid, then you will read power all the time. Now check the coils that don't work for voltage.
You're right. 34.2 on slings, 0 on that trough coil and any others I've tried that don't work in the test.
I resoldered the leads on that trough coil, still nada. I didn't strip fresh wire though, maybe I should have.
Nothing that I could see. I unplugged, examined, and put back together. No such luck.
My running theory at this point is that my refusal to create a rotisserie when I started caused me to break some connection somewhere under the PF (from leaning this thing on walls, laying it flat on tables and boxes, etc), and generally putting it in harm's way. Now I'm going to have to trace it until I find whatever problem is causing it.
I only have continuity from to the trough coil to the solenoid driver board and its connector if the power is on. No power, no continuity. There's a break somewhere. 
If I wanted to check continuity for solenoids at the connector on the PF, which would it be? That would help me at least narrow down that it is in fact a problem somewhere on the wiring there.
Quoted from joew575:If i'm not mistaken the red power wire that runs to the flashers on top of the playfield is daisy chained with most of the solenoids under the playfield. So if the two red wires are separated when you soldered the flasher your power would be stopped at the flasher and all solenoids after would not have power
I was thinking the same exact thing, actually. Makes perfect sense. Too bad my soldering iron is refusing to actually solder anything today. Ugh.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Anyone interested in anything off this? I'm about ready to tear into it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-nos-f-14-tomcat-playfield-400-obo
Wait, what's wrong with it to where you wouldn't put it in a machine?! Inserts cracked?
Quoted from joew575:If i'm not mistaken the red power wire that runs to the flashers on top of the playfield is daisy chained with most of the solenoids under the playfield. So if the two red wires are separated when you soldered the flasher your power would be stopped at the flasher and all solenoids after would not have power
Finally got them all wired back in and (not surprisingly) my solenoids are back. For some reason the kickback isn't firing and the top two flashers didn't flash but I THINK that's all that didn't work. So, good news there. Who would have ever thought that cutting the daisy chained power might cause a BUNCH of things to stop working...yeesh.
Thanks! Thought that was the case but couldn't really tell. Wrapping up the last of what I can do until parts get here. I wish I would have ordered a couple of sockets to light under the rollovers... Blah
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Here is a pic...[quoted image]
Much better pic than the garbage I took lol. I think I'm doing okay on reassembly but not without much squinting and self-questioning over my crappy pictures lol
Unrelated, but has anyone swapped targets out before? I bought a full set of these thinking it'd be no big deal before realizing that the whole stupid stack is apparently riveted together.
Screenshot_20200311-210942 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200311-205047 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200311-205058 (resized).jpgReally like what you did there! Very, very clean work and it looks awesome! I wasn't planning on replacing the entire stack, I just wanted to replace the Target blade itself. May be more trouble than it's worth tbh, or it may be something I tackle on down the road. Mine won't be quite as nice as yours though lol, I applaud the attention to detail! 
At the end of this, I'll be thrilled if mine looks good and plays 'right'.. And that's about it 
I've had to resolder so many times because I routed things incorrectly..ugh. And I'm finding that most of my alignment problems are going to haunt me on the wire forms. Guess I'm getting out the drill and Xacto knife to take care of that tomorrow. At least this work will be fairly well hidden... Woof.
Overall thoughts on powdercoating wire forms on HS? Mine aren't noticeably bad, although they haven't been polished either.. my guy brought up this color as a possibility.. Looks pretty slick imo.
black-frost-with-lollypop-red-top-coat-5 (resized).jpgQuoted from rwarren28806:I'd do green on the top 2, red on the bottom 2. That would break it up a bit.
That could be cool too.
I like the picture I posted, but it might be..too..."extra" for some.
I really need to give in and buy that damn ramp from you, too. Maybe I'll "accidentally" break mine while reassembling. 
Went ahead and built out the left side.. Spoiler alert, going to have to solder those back flashers AGAIN.. Didn't realize they went through the plastic.. 
I should be able to just plug in the ramp and make sure all the switches and the eject solenoid work as intended during a normal game.. Right?
Attach45022_20200312_171428 (resized).jpgIMG_20200312_170548 (resized).jpgWhat purpose do the ramp switches do exactly? I didn't notice anything but as I found out I have to disassemble more crap (the back wall) to thread the connector through, so it was actually connected underneath.. the eject solenoid worked perfectly and the game seemed to act proper, so I'm calling the left side assembled for now, with the only caveat being the stupid flasher. Woof.
//EDIT I don't remember it awarding a ramp bonus. Hmm. Wonder if the right side not being soldered has something to do with that..a common ground or something. Not going to worry about it, going to move forward with soldering the right side.
Not here yet Same with pops.
I'll have to take the top wire forms off again and I'm not fully securing the ramp just yet so when those are here I can build those up. I'm just checking functionality as I go along, especially where I'm having to solder things... Because my soldering skills suck.
Kind of a silly question..I knew that!
Not working on mine but I'm not gonna panic.. Time to solder the right side.
eyyyyy, it's almost starting to look like a pinball machine
Both escapes 'work' insofar as they both detect the ball being there and eject it after a brief pause. For some reason the ramp switches aren't registering now (no idea) and I have a feeling the game won't register the ramp shot without that working. Bleh.
IMG_20200313_222653_3 (resized).jpgWeird. I got the flippers all set up and now it's knocking on boot for switches 42, 43, and 48 (not surprising, as the ramp wasn't registering anything).. Never did that until I installed the flippers.
Still no kickout or back wall flashers. Hoping there's a break somewhere around one of those that I can easily identify and fix. Most other things seem to be working fine, aside from all three spinners which I adjusted and were scoring but now aren't for some reason. Seems that entire row is having issues now. Obviously I still need to build pops and install star rollovers. Those should arrive Monday.
Definitely doesn't look like any HS board I've ever seen!
As for my continuing saga, not sure why my game started knocking for those switches on boot since it hadn't ever done that before, but whatever.
Did some switch testing and realized that everything registered fine except spinners, ramps, and the right hideout rollover. All except the hideout rollover didn't register anything, period. The hideout registered SOMETIMES, but mostly not.
I unscrewed the right hideout microswitch (wish I haven't--I don't think I needed to) and lost the bottom fiber plate.. So tomorrow I go hunting for it or to salvage one off something else in my basement I guess.
Noticed this under the right hideout rollover when I got it upstairs. Bleh. I'll probably knock out some more soldering tomorrow to see if I can clean up some of this mess. Hoping once I've cleaned up the soldering that switch row will be back to working again.
IMG_20200314_222221 (resized).jpgIMG_20200314_222230 (resized).jpgWas there some reason you went away from the original board? I shipped mine all off for full rebuild, always prefer to just use original if possible. But my Eight Ball Deluxe does have an Alltek (came that way) in it.
Resoldered that green wire for the right hideout (bottom) switch and noticed a purple wire attached to a blob of other purple wires (middle right on PF) but hanging on by a thread. Cut it out, stripped off some fresh wire and soldered it in.
Ramp now working as far as I can tell, although it's still griping about switches. I'm guessing I gapped them too close when I was debugging (there's not really any reason they should have needed adjusting at all).
Star rollovers now griping, but haven't spent any time looking because I don't even have the parts yet.
Still no back wall flashers (I did resolder the left one, wires routed through the plastic) or kickout coil. I resoldered the purple/yellow wire (on the kickback) I had originally desoldered in order to sand the playfield. No idea why those ones continue to fight me. I think that's it as far as solenoids not working goes.
Making some progress but that kickback and the two flashers have me stumped. I guess I need to start tracing wires to see where continuity drops. Any other ideas?
Quoted from MJW:As I was telling Grumpy ,when I first got in the hobby thought Rottendog would be more reliable than old original. Have learned that rebuilt originals and X pin boards are very reliable.
That's my feeling. Rebuilt original, especially in a home setting, should last a very, very long time.
I put the top wire forms on for now, just to test base functionality. Seems good aside from the two flashers and stupid kickout. I obviously messed up the ramp switches and made them WAY TOO sensitive because it'll trip from me just hitting the ramp hard on a complete whiff. But I assumed I'd have to remove it to install star rollovers and pops anyway so I'll just do it then. Guess that basically means I'm done until my order from Marco gets here, aside from researching the kickback and ghosting LEDs on one column which I don't feel like making my head hurt over trying to figure out today.
received_864119400696564 (resized).jpegIMG_20200315_122524 (resized).jpg
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you hear the relay clicking on coil test?
That's a damn fine question. Lemme go check.
Well, maybe. Maybe not. Unless it being unhooked broke something. I'm assuming it solders on to the terminal with the brown wires, right?
Seemed to line up best with brown so that's what I went with but I can certainly try the red. It just doesn't seem to really line up particularly well. I did check the purple/yellow wire (on the coil lug itself) and got 0V but if the relay keeps it from energizing until it's time I guess that makes sense.
IMG_20200315_204340 (resized).jpgIMG_20200315_204356 (resized).jpgIMG_20200315_204400 (resized).jpgRed was the correct answer. Moved it over and it works perfectly now. I was actually looking at a past post you had replied on that said the same thing lol
Sweet deal, looks like all I have left is to figure out the flashers. Well and to install pops / star rollovers when they get here.
You're my hero grumpy.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:grumpy knows his shit!!!
100%.
Man I'm feeling good about finishing this thing.
I really need to figure out how to change the launch angle on the shooter lane at some point. It's smacking right into the lower targets.. Not even close to the ramp. It seems like it's that damn post sleeve, but from all I can tell, it's supposed to be like that.. Bleh
Yep, makes sense--on both suggestions. Also reading that a post sleeve can cause it to deflect (what's happening on mine, I'm almost certain of it).
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Can you take a slow motion video of the ball launch?
Going to not worry about it for now since I know the ramp has to come off at least once more. I understand the mechanics in play, I just need to fiddle with it until it's right. I might have to revise how I'm approaching securing the screw there. It doesn't seem to want to screw in terribly tightly and that's allowing it to flex. May just say hell with it and use a 6-32 bolt with a locknut under the PF. I need that to hold strong when I do finally get it set right.
Grumpy gold as per usual. I forgot I ended up doing that with a star post on the first pin I owned (an old, beat to sh!t WMS OXO) and it worked perfectly. Should work here also.
I need to find a better solution for mounting that stupid hideout microswitch (the one that sticks through the metal bracket to detect when a ball is routed there) also since the bottom fiber board went missing. I'm half tempted to just glue the damn thing to the bracket and order a couple replacements next time I place an order somewhere, figuring I'll have to destroy it to remove next time.... It came loose last night while I was messing with the shooter lane angle and my game started doing ALL SORTS of crazy things--I'm guessing something was grounding something out. I shut it down, pulled it completely out and the weird behavior stopped. But clearly that also undid my progress in the hideout. Bleh.
Got my parts today! Was too lazy to route lamp leads (didn't get stiff leads, doh) so I'll mess with those tomorrow. Need to whip out the Dremel and sanding bit to knock out the star rollovers, too. Hopefully I'm working from home soon and I can knock those out when I take breaks... Lol
IMG_20200316_182656 (resized).jpgIMG_20200316_205025 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200316_224631 (resized).jpgIMG_20200316_224619 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin-Pilot:It's coming along! You know that there should be 2 of the 5" bands around the back diverter unit right.
That's what the kit said but there's only one groove, where's the second band supposed to go?!
Your cabinet, oh man... That makes me sad. The rest though.. Wow! Beautiful!
I need to pull my coin door on this and my world cup soccer for powder at some point. Just seems like a lot of hassle
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:It is a bummer about my cabinet. The wood is just too damaged to bring back to high quality restore I am aiming for. It was an extra expense I was not counting on but it would be wrong to not replace it.
For what you're after, I 100% agree. Sucks.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:The coin door has a lot of pieces to it but mine really needed a full teardown and restore. I will post a pic when I get it back to gather.
Mine seems okay but I never use come out anything like that so I honestly haven't even tested that. I just know at some point I need to powdercoat it.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:You have it routed correctly around the back of the metal bracket. [quoted image]Here is a pic of the rubber placement, one goes in the groove and the other goes above the groove. [quoted image]Here is a pic of my old PF diagram.
Interesting. I'll add it when I get home!
I'm a little pissed at myself, I placed my big orders with Marco and pinball-mods and managed to forget three important things: a crimping tool, a I pin removal tool, and a pop spoon. I robbed the lower spoon off High Speed to fix my F14. Forgot a couple of sockets to shoot some light into these clear star rollovers, too. Stupid stupid stupid!
Oh well, follow-up order it is.
Haha, I know! But I toiled over these orders for weeks before committing, thinking for sure I had it all. Whifffff! I hope the mail service doesn't shut down!
Haha, indeed. So long as there's no disruption in mail service! Guess I should place that order, like, right meow.
Quoted from zosofan:That is the part that freaks me out the most about attempting this.
Go slow, be very careful. The absolute worst part because it can be so damaging.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Did not realize the roll-overs had to be installed like that. Honestly I am not a fan of the hard tops, although they seem to be VERY popular. I am sure it is less labor intense than a play field swap.
I chose the playfield swap route because I wanted to replace the playfield since all the screws were rusty on the bottom and it was evident that the game had been in a damp environment for a period of time. The cabinet also showed that making it necessary to replace that as well.
Take your time and I am sure it will all be fine in the end.
I love the way the hardtop plays and it's definitely less work than a full swap, but it's not without it's challenges, for sure.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Hey ksuwildcatfan, here is another "before" image of the area I think you are working on with the GI wiring.
[quoted image]
Thanks! I downloaded all of those for reference.
I'm going to order straight leads before I start on these. These flexible leads are a joke. No sense in starting down a path that I know for a fact is just going to piss me off!
Glad you're finding most of your connectors. I 100% agree finding a lot of this stuff without part numbers is a real chore a lot of the time, unfortunately.
They're trash. Never again.
I was really hoping to be able to solder the new leads in without removing the bottom pop assembly.. But clearly that's not realistic. So I'll start down that path, one by one, I guess.
Dammit grumpy, stop being so amazing. Those are way better than what I had in my cart, and about half as expensive as well. Thanks!
Quoted from GRUMPY:They are great, they screw down with the pop housing and are lower profile so bulbs won't melt the pop cap. Flexible wires don't break off like the rigid ones do. A win all around.
Wish they'd have had bulk pricing, I'd have bought a bunch! These will do for now though. Order finally placed 
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Did you see @high_end_pins is starting a #high-speed restore? Just starting.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/130#post-5536228
Good to see that one is getting brought back. It'll be beautiful.
Quoted from RCA1:Of course not.
He's Grumpy, not Sleepy.
I'm ashamed that it took me a minute to catch that lol
I bought a set for my F14, and I may do my space shuttle too. I really like them. But they're going to be a giant hassle to install lol
Woof. Two lights working, one not. Pops not popping worth a damn.
I really should have cut my lamp leads down to size; I made a damn mess of them as is.
Oh well, I'll pull the PF once more to clean it up and hopefully I'll fix that one unlit pop and the awful spoon alignment.
Quoted from PinballAir:So i a reassembling my HS after clear coating.
Went to install the new sling plastics from classic arcades that i picked up last year in allentown.
Coloring isnt even close.
D'oh!
Whoops!
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Woof. Two lights working, one not. Pops not popping worth a damn.
I really should have cut my lamp leads down to size; I made a damn mess of them as is.
Oh well, I'll pull the PF once more to clean it up and hopefully I'll fix that one unlit pop and the awful spoon alignment.
Fixed the wiring. Pops still need a lot of adjustment. Think I stuck the left hideout switch trying to screw the ramp down, so now I get to research that....
Right hideout is kicking twice when a ball enters because of a stuck bottom switch. I was having a similar problem with the left hideout and it seems to have disappeared with me bending the hell out of that arm.. Sadly that doesn't seem to be resolving the right switch. Ugh.
Otherwise it plays okay for the most part. The stoplight sags and the ball sometimes hits it. Need to find some screws that actually support it, or back then with nuts I guess. Still getting a crappy launch angle and can only hit the ramp if I'm using about half pull.. Maybe I'll switch out the spring and see what happens; not sure I rebuilt that.
Adjusted pops somewhat so I'm getting decent action but they're still a bit lazy at times. Really should clean up wiring from the lamp leads at some point but it's not terribly high priority.
I need to blow out all the fine dust somehow, but canned air isn't getting it done. Wish I had done that before installation... Meh. Oh, and once I'm happy with all that I guess I need to research my LED issue (seems to be one column giving me fits, I believe) so I can confirm if boards need to go back again or not...
But at least it's in one piece and not on my dining room table... 
IMG_20200320_203619 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200321_040252 (resized).jpgHave I mentioned how much I hate that bundle of wires on the right side? I swear I've accidentally hooked that a dozen times trying to lower the PF info the cab. Then again, only an idiot (me) would have taken the PF out as many times as I did...
Flippers in, evos dialed back almost as much as possible (center cluster off / alternate on with pop). I wish there were an easy way (for an idiot like me!) to get those spoons lined up. I just simply can't get it right.
I really need to go fight the dumb shooter lane, too..
IMG_20200325_164828 (resized).jpgThey're almost "too" bright but I've always been a big fan of the evos. Only negative for me is that there isn't a separate brightness adjustment for top side LEDs vs bottom side LEDs. So in order to reign in the top, you end up sacrificing almost all of the bottom illumination. Bleh
This shooter lane adjustment is about to drive me completely insane. I'm about to re-engineer the damn post on the right side of the ramp to cradle the ball into the ramp. Seems every adjustment I make is just temporary. Too high, too low. I've got the metal guide adjusted WAY low now, with the rubber post sleeve back in -- completely necessary now that I've got the metal guide bent so far down.
I'm going to replace the shooter spring first, maybe that's part of it. I'm not entirely sure it's hitting the ball centered (maybe I sanded too much off the lane--i wouldn't be surprised).
Gah!
I have my lane guide pulled MUCH further in and that at least seems to get it in the ramp sometimes.. better than never I guess. I feel like the damn traffic light gets it sometimes also. I'm gonna get this damn thing dialed in eventually.. Lol
I think the lane was leaning slightly which was affecting the path. I bent it back and now I'm able to hit the ramp almost every time, albeit with a fairly hard pull that makes hitting the hideout difficult. I digress...
I'm about to not be friends with these damn hideout, too.... It didn't break, I don't think. But it's out of the groove and I can't figure it how to get it back in..grr
IMG_20200326_144029 (resized).jpgIMG_20200326_144046 (resized).jpgQuoted from Freeplay40:Never be concerned about hitting the hide outs from the shooter.....it's not a skill shot....I think is scores like 10 pts!
Doesn't it count for something if you drain a ball trying to escape? Don't you have to make it to a hideout to escape?
Quoted from PinballAir:How do i get the 5" rubbers behind the hide out kicker shafts?
I had to halfway disassemble the damn thing. Take off the black wood piece and you should be able to get to everything you need.
Man, that hideout switch was a real B to me. Had to do the job twice to get it right. I think the bottom hideout switch has a failing diode, or the solder is bad (it looked fine). It was being really iffy about registering in switch test. But for now it's all back together and working.
I'll likely replace the spoon on my 'green' pop because it's still got the one it had before I started (that thin piece of crap I replaced because I couldn't get the top of the 'red' pop to register at all).
That ramp really needs a nice touch at some point. Stock black looks bleh... :/
IMG_20200403_172407 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Congrats! My High Speed restore is in "Need-New-Cabinet" indefinite wait mode. Everything else is ready to 99% ready to go.
I thought you had a new cab coming?!
That's the one I had decided on, too! Just wish I didn't have to disassemble and ship out to get it!
The clear is really cool too.. Both are far better than black.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Me TOO! Then the guy (Paul from Virtuapin.net) stopped all cabinet production and is only shipping his virtual pinball customers due to Covid-19. So I am dead in the water.
Noooooo!!!! Man, that's the freaking pits.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I opted for Red as well. Looks great.
Give ya ten bucks for it 
Quoted from detroitzoran:Here is the new traffic light. I kept the old one that was relocated to the back and built a harness that allows both to operate together.
You can see it in action here. https://imgur.com/9fJXNOG
You can see more information on this stoplight here. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-led-stoplight
[quoted image]
Looks great! I definitely want to relocate mine at a minimum when I finally give in and buy the new ramp.
Am I alone in thinking that adjusting the ramp switches is super annoying? I think I finally got them *okay*. Still not perfect. Blah
Finally dropped a decent game so I figured I'd finish dialing in the pops (replaced the spoon on my 'green' pop and finally got the stupid skirt pin to work well, then readjusted the 'red' pop to get rid of the dead spot up top) and brighten them up a bit so the white bulbs on bottom actually illuminated somewhat.
Then I decided I'd tackle my LED issue. Debugging the row and column plugs on my board, I'm getting a hell of a lot of bulbs (should be 8), consistently lit (thus ruling out board issues I believe) on the row plug. Columns test perfectly.
I'm honestly a bit baffled on where to even begin testing on my playfield to pinpoint issue(s). Any suggestions?
IMG_20200407_124621 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_183403 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184411 (resized).jpg
I suppose once this is resolved I should figure out why my beacon won't spin (it does light) as well. Bleh. At least I'm closing in on the finish line, I guess..
Quoted from rwarren28806:Does the beacon make a sound?
As in, clicking noises?
Quoted from rwarren28806:Loud(ish) humming.. Mine does that before it finally does rotate if I haven't played for awhile.
I can't remember, but I feel like it's turned a LITTLE since I've owned it. Probably correct as posted above that it just needs disassembled, cleaned, and re-lubed. At any rate, it's cheap to try and worst case scenario I can just replace it for $30 and call it a day.
I've got more tuning ahead than I thought, also, I guess. Playing this morning I had some inaccurate ramp registers and then a ramp miss altogether (resulting in two balls in the right hideout trying to start multiball). Looks like I'll be pulling that stupid ramp all the way out to adjust switches again.
Really not looking forward to researching the lamp matrix, I have absolutely no idea where to even begin with that.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:That motor looks like it could be retired. I did buy a new one for my High Speed as well. It would intermittently work. My pin is still apart so cannot confirm if it was the motor but for $30 it is worth replacing.
Oh, I agree. I'm just being a cheap bastard lol. Plus, I'm bored so I guess it's a challenge to see if I can fix it. If not, into the trash with it.
The plastic cover polished up pretty nicely.
IMG_20200409_114142 (resized).jpgIMG_20200409_114200 (resized).jpgIMG_20200409_114205 (resized).jpgIMG_20200409_114210 (resized).jpgQuoted from Canuck_pinhead:The Crisco in the background? lol
LOL. It had some black spray paint on it for whatever reason so I tried that first but it was pissing me off with how long it was taking, so I switched to nail polish remover which took it right off.
Then I used my 6" harbor freight DA and novus 3-2-1.
I'll definitely do this to my f14 at some point also, but not now.. That thing looks like ass anyway...
IMG_20200409_111006 (resized).jpgAll better, for now anyway. I didn't end up taking it apart, I just hand spun it a bit until it was smoother and then reassembled. I think it might have a short in the wires that attach to the motor but clearly they're fine positioned where they are. Still not PERFECTLY smooth on the spin, but good enough for me, at least for now.
IMG_20200409_154414 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:You just need to play it more and keep the motor warm and exercised!
Agreed. Gonna let it sit in demo mode for a bit. Now I need to tackle the ramp switches (AGAIN) and figure out my lamp matrix issues.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:You like playing with those ramp switches don't you. Exactly what is the issue. I think you may have mentioned it but I am being lazy and letting you explain it again. LOL
Right now I think the worst symptom is that it's registering ramps when I hit the ramp hard with the ball--regardless of whether I actually make the ramp or not. The first switch is gapped too closely I'm assuming. Annoying. Taking that apart this weekend, then begging for a primer on researching the lamp matrix issues 
Quoted from GRUMPY:Most likely the gold coating is either worn off or someone cleaned them incorrectly and removed the gold coating. So you didn't get a switch registration, so you then gapped them closer. After you fiddle with them they work for a short period and then stop registering again. Rinse and repeat until you have no more hair left to pull out.
You need new switches! There not available you say. You can make WPC EOS switches work instead.
Lmao. You may well be right, I think they were fine before I started monkeying with them (although I'm not entirely sure). Alright, I'll research those switches you mentioned.
Quoted from GRUMPY:PinWiki has info on this. I would start by disconnecting the play field connectors from the cpu board and then test the cpu board pins first. If it checks out then you know your issue is on the play field.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:And what's the deal with your lamp matrix?
I tested the board and found that columns tested fine but the row connector yields this, consistent across all pins on that plug. So I'm pretty confident it's in the playfield. Just not sure where to begin with it.
IMG_20200407_184411 (resized).jpg
According to the manual only the following should have actually been lit during this test. Does that mean that ALL the lamps that are lit in error here have issues (bad diodes, etc)?
IMG_20200410_015357 (resized).jpg
One pin at a time, for both the column and row plugs. I was told to do this to determine whether it was the board or something on the playfield and that since my issue didn't change regardless of pin, it was something in the playfield. The column plug was perfect on all pins.
received_147322210050852 (resized).jpeg
Shown across 6 of the 8 different pins on the row plug, I don't see any variation.
IMG_20200407_184234 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184235 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184236 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184237 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184330 (resized).jpgIMG_20200407_184411 (resized).jpg
Obviously I don't have a clue about any of this, but the guy I have do board work is someone I definitely trust and don't think would ever try to shirk responsibility on a repair. But on this I have no idea where to even start, past what he told me to rule out prior to shipping boards off again.
There were definitely some diodes bent down and probably causing issues because of that I bent them all so they for sure weren't touching things they weren't supposed to. That did drop a couple off my list, so that's good. Good suggestion!
IMG_20200410_121945 (resized).jpgIMG_20200410_122648 (resized).jpgQuoted from GRUMPY:You got row 1 unshorted. Keep looking on the last 16 lights for a short.
Will do! Some of these diodes were really bent.. 
Quoted from GRUMPY:You got row 1 unshorted. Keep looking on the last 16 lights for a short.
Surely the short should be in row 3 somewhere, right? I'm plugging the connector on row 8.
Looked all through those (both rows) and everything 'looked' fine. What's next for testing so I can pinpoint it?
Quoted from Andy_B:OK. Playing the sh*t out of High Speed which is next in line for refurb after Volcano.
Is it me or is this one of the worst backglasses out there?
Its not so far the other side of bad that it's good, it's just bad.
Zombie cops and washed out colours?
Meh.
Heh. I like the glass. I dunno.
Quoted from joew575:Thanks freeplay40 got my ramp installed looks and plays great[quoted image]
Oh that does it. Time to order my clear ramp. Lol
Looks amazing!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Make sure that the transistors right above the connectors are not touching each other.
These guys?
IMG_20200410_184121 (resized).jpgQuoted from Freeplay40:ksuwildcatfan just contacted me for a new clear High Speed ramp....That will be number 200!
Thanks to all!
To inform my wife or not to inform my wife.... Ope.
Quoted from finman2000:I had a similar problem(not as many lamps lit) and found that the wiring inside the stop light cover was creating a short.
Hahaha that's ridiculous. I'd be so furious when I discovered that.
Sadly, problem persists with that unplugged.
As grumpy said it certainly seems like it's down to rows 3 & 8 lighting together when I'm powering only 8. Everything 'looks' fine on all those bulbs from what I can tell, but I haven't thrown a meter on anything.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:"Do It Right" is my first name. I have rivet skills so that is not a problem, just an extra step I guess. I have a red ramp, I wonder how good it will look on the Red translucent ramp?
Funny, "hold my beer and watch this shit" is mine
I'm not sure they look good enough to justify how much of a pain in the ass they were to install, but I like em. I'm dreading doing F-14, that will be god-awful. I expect to be MUCH more thrilled with that one, simply because the stock targets are fuggo. Since I didn't change any colors (obviously, I wouldn't have) the impact isn't quite as strong. My old blades were actually pretty nice, too. No chips or anything like that. Whatever, into the parts bin they go
Quoted from GRUMPY:What ever you bumped into under the play field has fixed your lamp matrix problem.
Sadly not
IMG_20200415_204428 (resized).jpgQuoted from Freeplay40:Better hurry and figure out those lights...you new ramp will be there Saturday!
Oh, hell!
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:What color ramp did you get?
I really liked the red, but I ended up buying clear. Wife said she liked that one better... Lol
Quoted from frisbez:Red is the best IMO![quoted image]
I like the red a lot
Got some stuffs today. Not actually installed yet, just placed in the machine for test fit. Still need to route wires through (and reconnect the connector) and affix the stoplight to the back wall. Then it's back to frickin matrix debugging :'(
The clear ramp looks great!
IMG_20200420_135821 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_152150 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_152156 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin-Pilot:Big improvement over the OEM black for sure.
100% agree. Might need to play around with the bulbs behind it, idk.
Yeah I might need to go digging around to see what I have in the bulb box. I think those 2smd warm bulbs are going to be a bit much.
I need to go install bulbs on my rollovers, too. Wish I had done that before putting the PF back in the cab... 
Man. Not a good night for me. I scuffed the ramp trying to wrestle it in to place after getting the wires crammed through the slot. Then I scuffed the hardtop. And after finally getting it installed..ish.. it looks really crooked. Occasionally the ball will smack into the glass if I hit it particularly hard off the top flipper. Could be that I just need to get the entry flap down tighter, idk.
I installed a couple of fire bulbs under the ramp. Not sure if they're keepers or not, but it's interesting. My machine is definitely playing like crap right now, (upper left and right) pops suddenly not quite right again and I'm not sure the diverter is working at all, although I made sure it had ample space to operate cleanly... idk.
Calling it a night on this damn thing.
IMG_20200420_210255 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_212051 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_212100 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_214432 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_214437 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_214441 (resized).jpgNoticed this while dinking around earlier. Is this plastic supposed to be raised up like this, with this big gap? Seems like it would make a lot more sense to be like the left side, with holes drilled through for the flasher (which I can't get to frickin work anyway).. Right?
IMG_20200421_125943 (resized).jpgBleh, I see why that plastic has the metal risers. For one, you wouldn't see any of the art with the original ramp, two it would probably be too dark, and three it has to clear that spinner assembly. I'm thinking about cutting the plastic according to the purple cut line (or thereabout) and leaving the metal spacer on the bottom piece but removing it from the two screws on the top piece. Thoughts? Has anyone else with a clear ramp tackled this issue?
IMG_20200421_195438 (resized).jpgIMG_20200421_195442 (resized).jpgIMG_20200421_195520 (resized).jpgIMG_20200421_202359 (resized).jpgI used #6-32 hard drive screws because my screws were mismatched and liked like sh1t.
I imagine any #6-32 button cap screw approx 1/8"-1/4" from a hardware store would work.
Quoted from joew575:ksuwildcatfan you ever get your lamp matrix figured out?
Tbh I haven't spent any time at all trying. I played it a bit but I haven't spent a lot of time on pinball at all lately. I really do need to get that figured out; it's super gd annoying.
I'm still fighting various intermittent ramp issues too--switches not registering/triggering the diverter or triggering too late to divert the ball, switches somehow triggering with a partial ramp shot (IE didn't make it to the switch) or with a hard hit to the ramp itself, etc. Usually it just results in having to make the shot a second time (in the event that the miss happens during red light running, etc) but it's super annoying when it advances the light incorrectly. Makes the rest of the score feel hollow/underserved. It's especially confusing how the switches can seem both too sensitive and not sensitive enough.. Blah.
Tbh I'm in over my head a bit when it comes to any real debugging of issues. If a monkey couldn't eventually figure it out by randomly adjusting random things, I probably couldn't, either. 
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:Thanks for the response. Something like these #6 panheads with lock washers?[quoted image]
Can't see why those wouldn't work.
I still have yet to ever get my back flashers to do anything post-hardtop. No idea if they worked before. It's low on my list, but definitely annoying.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Easy fix, check for voltage on both wires of both flasher bulb sockets. If 28-32 dc volts on all 4 wires then test the resistor under the play field. If resistor is good then ground the metal tab of Q-79, do the flashers light up? If so you have a CPU board issue, if not you have a wiring issue on the blue/black wire between the resistor board and the CPU board.
Damnit grumpy, stop being so amazing. I'll give all that a try as soon as I can. I need to pull the right flasher again so I can hack up the plastic to lay it flat... Perfect time to diagnose this too.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Freeplay40's ramps are nice and smooth making for faster ramp speeds. You may need to use the next lighter plunger spring or adjust the first ramp switch a bit closer. The hideout kicking multiple times is because it thinks there is a ball and a broken switch. Once you sort out getting locks to the left hideout the rest will self correct.
Mine behaves like this when the diverter fails to properly divert the ball to the hideout it wants to go into. I continue to have various issues with the switches triggering too late (I guess?) or not at all... Which makes me think they're gapped too far apart. But then on occasion they'll register a ramp shot when I make it halfway or if I completely miss the ramp entrance and smack the side or something..as if maybe they're gapped too closely. Lol. It continues to be a thorn in my side. But my MPU is out for now and headed back to Missouri again so HS is dark in my row for a bit.
Good luck with the ramp. It's the bane of my existence.
Quoted from pacman11:Quick question: I have a problem with the diverter at the top of the loop. What triggers that diverter to open and close? Mine seems to be working off/on right now.
The two switches under the ramp. God speed.
Quoted from pacman11:Just realized I posted my question under the wrong club. I meant to put it under the Getaway club.. lol
Lmao. Can't help you on that one!
Finally catching up, been a busy couple of weeks. High speed is a perfect game for a hardtop, not really understanding all the dislike there. And even I was able to install one... Literally anyone can.
I need to check on my boards. Shipped em off a few weeks ago and haven't heard anything. My high speed is feeling sad.
My MPU is back, after I tried my hardest to burn a giant hole in it with improper fusing... $25 repair job and she's all good to go again. Now I need to order 2.5A SB fuses, some fuse holders (for bulletproofing ALL my Williams games) and some other misc crap. Then I can finally get back to trying all the suggestions grumpy had for me on all my weird issues (no back flashers, row bleed on the lamp matrix).
Oh and I need to replace the pop coil that stuck on, still... Still can't believe I had that fused at 5A. What an idiot!
Bottom two are solenoids, I believe the circled one is for pops. Both are 2.5A slo blo. Ask me how I know.
Mine will go left ramp if the ball is going juuuuust the right speed. But I certainly can't predict it.
That diverter assembly can piss off as far as I'm concerned. In terms of level of frustration mine has been somewhere in between how mad my shooter lane made me and how mad my pops are currently making me. Guhhhhh
That said, I guess the question i would ask is whether or not it works when you're setting up multiball? If it doesn't, make sure the ramp is pressed DOWN enough with screws so the arm can fit through the hole. If it's tweaked at all, it won't extend.. Although usually it's either/or, not second works while first doesn't. Depends on how it's kinked I guess. ASK ME HOW I KNOW ALL OF THIS! (Had similar alignment issues trying to wrestle my new ramp in place)
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:The diverter operates both arms at the same time. I think if 1 is not working neither would the other.
I guess that's true. If one hits a snag, neither will work.
So we're back to switch adjustment hell. Have fun!
Sounds about right re: alternating. And agreed on gapping that first switch tightly.. But you have to be careful not to adjust it too tight or THEN it'll register hits when you smack the ramp hard. Welcome to the forever conundrum that makes this whole setup a nightmare.
I've gone back and forth trying to gap it correctly on the original ramp, freeplay40 adjusted and shipped back with the new ramp and I still had issues, and I've gone back and forth since. Total nightmare. If you find that sweet spot..hold your breath and don't ever even THINK about it again..or it'll knock itself out of alignment just to spite you.
Quoted from Freeplay40:Here's my back glass with Steve Richie endorsing my new clear ramp!
[quoted image][quoted image]
I like the center green!
Quoted from Andy_B:That's just differently coloured bad!!
Haha, to each their own I guess. I think the zombie lookin police dudes are rad AF, right along with the blonde in the lambo
Me? No, I learned to accept it for the annoying bastard it is.
My pops are much further up the list of things that need sorted. My bottom pop is GREAT but the other two have been the bane of my existence. They're now responsive enough IF action is triggered by the bottom pop. Otherwise they tend to be super lazy.
I've tried adjusting them so many times and I just can't get it right. It's super frustrating.
Quoted from Andy_B:Try new contacts on the pop bumper activation switches.
Good idea, and potentially worth doing, but I can feel the alignment not being good on the skirt and spoon. I've tried so many times, even getting my wife to help hold so the damn thing doesn't move when I tighten it down.. No dice. I'm following vid's advice and I have clear pop bodies and skirts, so the deck is literally stacked in my favor, and they just won't play nice. It's my personal hell.
I'm sure this has been hashed out a zillion times, but on my beacon if I position the wire juuuuuuuuuuuuuust right it'll work fine. If it moves, at all really, it stops turning. Is there any way to actually fix this motor, or is it something that I should just give in and replace? I had it working for a bit, but now it's back to not spinning. Driving me absolutely bonkers.
Pretty sure it's right by the motor, so that stinks. I did get it adjusted to where it's working again..... For now.
This high speed really doesn't want me to love it, I think. My pops are a nightmare, I've still got a lamp matrix issue to sort, and my ramp situation... Well.. Yeah. I have so much I need to go revisit so this thing is actually fun to play again... But I did will my way to a pretty decent score earlier and that brought back some of the love.
IMG_20200806_123046 (resized).jpgIMG_20200806_123101 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin-Pilot:There is a thread that shows strange places you have seen balls stuck but I cannot find it. So I am posting this one here in the High Speed forum.
[quoted image]
Haha, nice one!
I'm still dealing with annoying sh1t on mine, primarily with the ramp passing the ball (usually when I'm running the red light and I've hit it HARD, it seems) and crappy pop action..but I don't think I have any weird spots where balls can/do get hung up, thankfully. I really wish I could dial in the frustrating parts on my game, because I feel like I'd want to play it a LOT if so... As it is it's just an occasional play for me. Oh, and I'm too damn lazy to try tracking down the lamp matrix problem...
Most of my issues seem to be related to me being too lazy, it seems..although those ramp switches and pops have absolutely fought everything I've tried, so I can't say I haven't given it at least a college try.. The lamp matrix issues.. I resolved one column by just bending diodes back (my rotisserie-less hardtop was probably to blame for this) but the other I just haven't been able to figure out.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:I just had to replace Q43 on the switch matrix (Left hideout switches, all 3 pop bumpers, both Flipper switches, and the ball shooter switch). Not sure why it blew but all of a sudden it was not working. Easy fix really. All working great now.
Its a bummer you are having issues still with your High Speed. I would love to help you out. diagnosing that via thread messages is difficult. I replaced both ramp switches. The gap has to be very precise. too sensitive and it goes off with vibration, not sensitive enough and it will not have time to actuate the solenoid in time to send the ball down the first wire cage.
Seems mine works MOST of the time..but will trigger occasionally on a hard hit to the ramp. Seems 50/50 on whether or not it'll register properly when I'm actually running the light though. And unfortunately that's the one that is the most noticeable to not get credit for because it makes you do it again! :'(
Quoted from LanceCT:Hi there, just got a High Speed, my first machine ever. Everything works well but after two weeks, the kickback is totally dead, doesn't do anything. Everything else works, no other issues with the machine.
What should I do?
thank you so much for any advice you can give me, especially as a first time owner and newcomer to opening a machine
Lance
Does it work in solenoid test? Fuses good?
If it works there, is the switch above it working? Check it in switch/edge test to confirm.
Quoted from Hench4Life:The good thing about being a Detroit Lions fan is the free time available on fall Sundays... Pulled this thing out of a basement without a key, and an "Adjust Failure" error on the display. Yesterday (after the Lions ridiculous end of the first half) drilled the lock, checked the fuses, powered up and cleared the error... To my complete surprise, it functions 100% despite the owner never having performed any maintenance...
I already got the hardtop and cpr plastics, getting a new ramp, and have a few mods to add... Just a matter of tearing it down, cleaning, and putting it back together..
[quoted image][quoted image]
I love the adjust fail error + lost key combo. Sellers assume it's dead and sell cheap. That's how I got my pristine taxi for $1300. Just needed to pull the 20-year old batteries out of the holder and clean the contacts off.
You'll love the hardtop!
Yeah, my Taxi came to me after a month of trying to be helpful with zero intent to actually buy it (she never did give me a straightforward answer about 'what' exactly wasn't working, or if she had keys, or anything really. It was a glorious dumpster fire sort of deal) and then one day she hit me up and said I could come buy it for $1300 if it truly was dead, but she wanted me to try fixing it there and if I could she wanted $1800 ($1300 was literally all I had and I told her as much, so I'd be driving 60 miles each way to fix it for free so someone else could buy it..I guess?). Weird all around.
At any rate, she didn't have the key when I showed up and I didn't have my drill so I bought it assuming the MPU was smoked. It was sheer luck that the 20 year old Duracells didn't blow up more than they did.
IMG_20200705_160241 (resized).jpgQuoted from gutz:Thats not the factory battery holder, which means the batteries likely leaked twice on that MPU during its life
Haha I didn't even think about that. Hard yikes, considering those had a use by date of 2001! Then again, 1988 -> 2000 could do it, then 2000 -> 2020....if people weren't paying attention.
Boards look great though, so maybe this thing is just super lucky lol. It plays GREAT without me having to do a whole hell of a lot to it.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:So... this reminds me...
I bought an NVRAM for my High Speed.
I thought it would be an easy plug and play scenario like my other (older Stern) machine. To my surprise it looks like I will have to de-solder the old pins before lifting it away... not sure my skillset is up to the challenge.
Yeah, I'm not about that life. I have my board guy do it when I ship him board sets, but otherwise I just clip and run remote batteries off the board. Good enough, and easy topside soldering. NBD, anyone can do *that*
Quoted from BrettRS:I've got a chance to get a high speed locally for $1350. I went and checked it out yesterday and the sound wasn't working (I think just a loose wire, we were able to get the speakers to make some noise by shifting around some cables behind the coin door) and the pop bumpers weren't working either. He said both were working when he got the game in a few weeks ago, so maybe a fuse or something (there was 1 blown fuse that I noticed).
The backglass is pretty much trash, it's cracked and taped together in the bottom right. Displays seem good and the lights look good as well. PF is mylar'd and in good condition. Unshopped, obviously, PF glass needs replaced.
He had it marked at $1900 originally and took it down to $1700 and then told me his best price is $1350 so I have some room to get it up and running correctly. Thoughts on if I should pick it up or if I should just wait for a shopped game to shop up on here for $1800? Currently have 1x EM Royal Flush and 1x DE MNF -- I was thinking I would like a 2000s+ game next, but it's hard for me to say no to a good deal, so I'm thinking about adding this and then having my first real project pin to take on. Let me know what you think.
I think 1350 isn't terrible if it's nice other than the glass. How "not" shopped is it? Does it just need cleaned and new rubbers, or does it look like it's had a bunch of leaves decomposing inside it? Does it play?
I got mine in working condition with a meh playfield, two dead displays, and a jacked up battery holder (adjust failure) and paid 800. Xpin displays, a hardtop, a clear starship fantasy ramp, and some....TLC... later, and it's pretty damn nice. 1350 basically puts you at 1700 when you replace the glass. If it's nice otherwise and just needs cleaned up, that's not bad. One just sold down the street from me for 1800, almost immediately, and it needed some TLC for sure. But it did work and function properly.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:Hey guys.
Quick question. Had a repair guy in fixing up my HS and he mentioned that the 'hole' is pretty beat up in the hideout. Is there any way of repairing it? I plan on doing a Hardtop at some point and I'm thinking if it is all worn it would affect the effectiveness of the Hard top as well.
Repair it when you install the hardtop. Fill, sand, paint, clear--THICK. If you clear the entire thing before you lay the hardtop down it should fit in nicely with the work you'll do on inserts and the shooter lane.
Mine was pretty bad also but came out okay (I'm sure you can mix a better color than I ended up with). Only regret, I didn't put enough clear down so some of the paint has already started to chip.
Most likely you'll see more of the top of the hole than the bottom -- my hardtop covered the bottom lip for the most part.
IMG_20200307_105254 (resized).jpgIMG_20200307_131333 (resized).jpgIMG_20200307_151551 (resized).jpgIMG_20200307_152336 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200307_153812 (resized).jpgQuoted from Canuck_pinhead:Ok.
That's what I figured.
Was kinda hoping there was an aftermarket product to place in the hole though. lol!
The typical thing a lot of people do is install a cliffy.
I thought about powdercoating them but opted to just leave them be. I don't remember my reasoning, maybe my powder guy threw out a price I didn't like, or maybe he just didn't want to do the detail work.. I don't remember. I thought candy red would have looked awesome, also.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:Oh... I'm sure the price would be a determining factor... just think it would look great.
100% agree. I'm still waffling on what to do with my HS at this point (due to me having picked up Getaway, and the fact that I want a Tron), but it's on loan so there's really no pressure to do much of anything right now. I'd have loved to have done the candy red wireforms though! We think very much alike on that mod.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:If I do it I will definitely post pics so you can live vicariously through me! haha
Please do!
https://homepinballrepair.com/repair-pinball-lamp-sockets/
Give this a try first. It's only a few random sockets? Have you checked the lamp matrix to see if it's one common row/column? That should help you to verify on the board that nothing is noticeably burned or cold soldered.
Quoted from Gorgar666:New to the Club. As you can see someone mounded the Volume knob to the front. Can someone please post a picture of the correct place it goes? I’m going to plug the hole with nylon insert plug. repaint the coin door and glass bead the legs. bondo and color match the chips in the wood...Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Oh man, someone take their hole saw away please! Forever!
I prefer the upper flipper all the way back, personally. Ymmv, of course. Make sure your ramp leafs aren't too close.. but also not too far away... ugh, I hate those damn things. I have a MRS switch to install on mine at some point.
Yours is looking good!
I toggled with the notion of getting rid of my HS in 2021 because I felt like it was a bit redundant next to Getaway but I'm passing my Pinbot to a friend instead..HS is coming back home. I miss it!
Quoted from PinHead50:Hey everyone, I just picked up a HS from a local guy who has had it in his house for 20 years. Man was this thing neglected. They thought it was broken but had never replaced the batteries.... Bought it for a cool $725 not knowing if it played. Got it home and cleaned up and everything but the player 4 display worked. Replaced all the flipper hardware and eject mech on the back, got lucky and a buddy had a display. Ordered a new piece of glass today as the old one looks like it got hit by a weed eater. I think after the LED upgrade I will have about $1250 in it so I think I came out ahead. Have a few chips in the cabinet to fill and going to let my daughter do some touch up paint. The left front corner of the cabinet split during the move so had to glue it back and upgraded the hardware for the legs. Here are a few pics after I cleaned her up. Anything I should take a look at, I have started reading through this forum and have made it to about the 15th page. There is a lot of info in this..... Thanks for any input.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks like a nice grab for $725. Got my $800 pull beat.
Love High Speed! Can't wait to bring mine back home again.
Before and after.
IMG_20190901_155817 (resized).jpgIMG_20200813_183253 (resized).jpgQuoted from PinHead50:Thanks for the info, got the fuse holders coming with my glass order. Unfortunately they are out of NVRAM at the time but its on my list.
A remote battery would be a good thing in the interim, or at least some Energizer Lithium AAs. Or both.
My Taxi had batteries with an exp date of 2001. They did leak, but only on the (non-original) battery holder and I was able to clean it off. I still need to clip and solder on a remote battery until I send my boards off for bulletproofing, I just haven't gotten around to it. Didn't want to lose my high scores...
Quoted from Bax1:you still may have some damage to other things on the board from the battery. plus, you never really get the battery holder fully clean. best to get that off and get someone to do a clean up job on it soon. it's ok if you lose the high scores, you just have to try harder to set new ones
Oh for sure. It needs clipped and a remote pack installed *at the very least*.
It's not an original battery holder which is interesting..so my guess is that the batteries exploded on that one and this is now round 2 of it. Hate to jinx myself but I've not had a single issue with it since I cleaned the terminals and put in good batteries. But yes, it needs to go, and those boards really need bulletproofed, soon. I'm not selling taxi so it's money well spent.
I can't really tell from the pic but is that bulb an old style LED, not an SMD bulb? If so, maybe it's just a crappy bulb. As noted above, I'd try an incandescent as well as a different LED...especially if that's an old style LED. Those things suck. SMD all the way or keep it original with incandescent, IMO.
Oh, and back on my lamp matrix issues that I posted foreverrrrrrrrrrrrr ago... My friend has had my High Speed for a bit and was finally able to figure out what was wrong. Someone wired the shoot again light incorrectly (wasn't me!) ... so that blew out both the row AND the column, causing all sorts of weird behavior. Fixed now.
When I go and pick it up, I need to install the MRS switch to see if that fully resolves my ramp switch issue...and then I just need to play the sh1t out of it. I miss her.
Quoted from Hangernade:I almost bought a Space Shuttle but the deal fell through and that's how I wound up with High Speed. How do you like the Space Shuttle?
High Speed is far, far more enjoyable than Shuttle IMO. I like Shuttle but for whatever reason it seems to just anger me more than it makes me happy. Maybe because I'm just not good at it? Or because you only really get big points by hitting the spinner over and over? Tbh it's probably the next game I sell. It might have already left if I weren't upside down in it.
I want to love it. I think it's a beautiful game. But it's just not my favorite, by a long shot. Imo, you did much better by landing high speed.
Did you remember to set it back to freeplay? lol
Sounds like what I'd expect to see happen when batteries were removed and then re-inserted (or in this case, NVRAM installed)..
Bwahahahaha, got ya with the little stuff!
Good job on the NVRAM install! Head into the service menu and set it to freeplay again and you're good to go.
Quoted from Hangernade:I'm more than happy to have it be something dumb. I've had the nvram for over a month but was hesitant to do it. Battery holder has already been replaced. Did not get a picture yet of what was in it.
Something dumb: The Jordan Bayless Story
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:When I turn on machine I get a switch test alert for 23 and 24.
In the manual it states to 'open a closed switch ... I'm new to this. What do I need to do??
There is a detached wire on one of the banks listed. I'll attach a pic.
[quoted image]
Can you show what the rest of those jumpered connections (show me the far left target) look like? I just need to see which blade that yellow wire attaches to. Then you just need to strip fresh wire and solder it. Easy peasy.
I assume it needs soldered to the same blade as the other yellow wire on that middle target but I'm not sure without seeing the left. My HS isn't here or I'd just go look at mine.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:That's the working left. Not touched it. I will solder the right one back and see.
Whoops, my bad. Didn't catch that lol. Yeah lmk what symptoms you have after that.
I find that when I have similar or exact duplicate configuration elsewhere on a game (like the three sets of lights on HS) I can often figure out what's wrong by just comparing and noting any differences. Seems it's usually something stupid that needs done to correct it.
Does anyone have any wild candy red powercoated High Speeds? Wireforms as well as rails/legs/lockbar..just curious 
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:I think it will look sexy AF and then I'm gonna have to do it!
I think my powder guy was reluctant to do the wireforms..but I definitely want to do those. Thinking for the coin door I'll likely just keep it black, but I'll go with splatter black for some texture. Flat is blah.
I've never really been too in love with powdercoated (or chromed, or brass, or whatever) doors. But rails/lockbar/legs/wireforms....yes yes yes yes!
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:Wireforms are a must.
Why are they reluctant?
I thought about buying a spare set... so if they chip or whatever they could be easily switched out.
TBH I don't remember why. It could be as simple as he didn't get a good idea of true scale (from pictures alone) and didn't think he could do it.
I should have grabbed one of the (many) cheap pairs I saw come across there for a bit. For the exact same reason you said!
Quoted from GRUMPY:I have a spare set I would sell.
I'm interested if Canuck passes.
There's a cheap set on ebay, but they're kind of crusty and one of the lower wireforms has a broken support piece which is..unfortunate. They're cheap as balls, but the quality unfortunately about matches the price.
ebay.com link: 1986 Williams HIGH SPEED Pinball Machine 4 WIRE RAMPS
I like that someone did...something...but NGL, that's a complete swing and miss for me.
Now, candy yellow? Oh lord, that could be hot.
That candy red HS2 right below it...THAT'S hot.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109597
Here's one on the market in red (not wire forms though)
Flat red isn't bad. Definitely cool...but candy...that's next level ;D
Quoted from GRUMPY:The coin door is too much.
I'm very very very rarely a fan of anything other than black on the coin door. Splatter black powder is my go to for just about anything I don't desire to be glossy.
When I do doors for various games, I will almost certainly do them *all* how I had my neo geo done.
IMG_20190720_171401 (resized).jpgIMG_20200502_143853 (resized).jpgIMG_20200502_143903 (resized).jpgIMG_20200502_143910 (resized).jpgQuoted from Canuck_pinhead:They 'pimped it out'... but didn't do a clear/red ramp or the stoplight mod.
I relocated my black cube to the rear left corner but I'm seriously thinking about buying the Getaway-style light to go next to the ramp. Feels like it's missing something without it on the playfield.
And yeah, $5000 and no stoplight mod or clear ramp? I dunno man, it's a no from me. That's like running a 20K and then stopping 100 feet short of the finish line. Why?
Quoted from Hangernade:Saw a post on FB where someone had a coin door media blasted then powder coated. I guess there was some heat build up and now his frame is warped quite a bit.
Yikes!
Quoted from Lovef2k:I have another HS that I'm working on and discovered that someone took the actuator and metal plate from the left upper hideout micro switch. The micro is still wired and works. Are they left and right specific? Can I buy just those pieces and/or the entire switch. Can someone provide a part number? I just searched epay for a WMS parts cat. but no luck.
No, not side specific. IIRC that part is discontinued but there's a suitable replacement. I broke one arm and had to replace it...lemme see if I can pull which part I ordered from history (although if yours works, doesn't sound like you need one?)
//edit
This guy: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-20
Quoted from Lovef2k:It works when pressing the little button but the arm and screws are mia. Got a buddy in FL that's parting an HS and he has one for me. Not free but cheaper than the one on epay
That works too. I ended up buying the beater wireforms on ebay for 25/shipped. I'll have to weld a new back support piece for one of the lower wireforms but then I think I'll have them powdercoated a solid color to try out. I wanted to leave mine chrome so I can candy coat them red when I'm ready.
Quoted from Hangernade:So Great Plains is currently not doing any shipping due to staffing and backlog. Found these at Micro Center. Since it looks like 2 have already been replaced I'll do the three pop bumpers seeing as how they don't have enough available currently.
https://90a1c75758623581b3f8-5c119c3de181c9857fcb2784776b17ef.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com//466101_092072_01_front_zoom.jpg
Oh no, don't tell me that... I have an order in, waiting to be shipped..
Groan. Fingers crossed that my order is moving along. I did get an update this morning.
I think you'll be fine buying caps and things like that from just about anywhere -- so long as you make sure the values are correct. Unlike stupid .100 connectors which don't seem to EXIST anywhere else, I think you've got plenty of options for generic electronic parts.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:Didn't grab the others from Grumpy?
Waiting on pics lol
The lower right one of these is missing the rear support.. no idea if that will work at all. But they'll be okay for experimenting with powdercoat. I figured it was pretty hard to go wrong for $25.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I'm old and to slow.
This is a great deal, hard to pass up on.
Weld one on, good as new for powder coating.
I didn't mean my comment on you critically! Absolutely NO rush. I grabbed these because they were so cheap. Seemed silly not to. No idea what kind of condition they're in... probably not great lol
Mine are nice and I hand polished them. It would be a shame to slap a solid coat of powder over them!
Quoted from GRUMPY:I didn't take it that way, I was just being very honest. Had to service both mine and wife's vehicles on Sunday and time just got the better of me.
I sold a shuffle bowler to someone and enough time lapsed on me fixing it that I'm buying it back. So I know.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Here a pic. They are complete, no broken welds. Chrome looks very good. Maybe a 9-9.5 out 10 with some hand polishing.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Yeah those look great. Nev-R-Dull (if it's even necessary at all) would take care of any issues they did have.
How much? Do you accept kidneys? 
Quoted from Lovef2k:anyone?
You sure the solder joints for the remote battery are good? Try redoing them to make sure there's no issue there? There's no reason it shouldn't hold memory of the pavk is good and the solder joints are good. If those both check out but it still won't hold, I'd imagine there's other damage to the board. Me being simple as I am, that's where I'd be shipping them off to my board guy. Lol
What are your results in edge test for the switches that are acting up?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yes, and never reuse a diode.
Hear hear. No point in doing it when they cost practically nothing.
I have a universal MRS switch to try on my first ramp switch because it's still not perfect and it frustrates the hell out of me when it fails to register. I need to get the rest of the cash I need for metallica so I can bring my HS home. I really want to try that new switch.
Quoted from Lovef2k:Yeah I know, grease is forbidden in most pin applications but I'm only using it until I can get new sleeves. Both ramp switches were working in self test as of last night. So may be it does need adjusting. Also a little while ago I noticed the ramp has some slop. Back I go...
My FP40 ramp wasn't installed right and it was causing the ball to hop. It's better now, but without the cover I think it's still doing it on occasion. Dammit I can't wait until that old girl is home again!
Quoted from jibmums:Joined the club last weekend. Spent this past week cleaning, polishing and adjusting, now it's playing like it's supposed to. Odd factory mistake from Williams on my cabinet, they stenciled the colors in the wrong order, first white then red and gold, so the white is overprinted on both sides. Looks like they fixed the HIGH SPEED text, can't have people not be able to read what machine they're playing, but the red in the car and the red and gold stripes overprint the white. My serial # is 54180259, I'd be interested see if other owners around the same number had their cabinets stenciled wrong. A shame, as otherwise the cab is in great shape.
Anybody have a spare green standup target face? One of mine was replaced with a red one and I need to rivet a correct green one in. I don't see them for sale anywhere.
[quoted image]
Weird. Can't say I've ever seen a cab like yours re:layering. I'm stenciling mine at some point, I think. I'm #93762.
I think someone on ebay sells replacement HS sets, but I'm not sure about individual targets.
An alternate approach on the targets: candy translucent color-matched. I love mine!
IMG_20190902_014726 (resized).jpgIMG_20200415_170222 (resized).jpgIMG_20200420_212100 (resized).jpg
The red ramp is awesome. It hides that hideous gap in the plastic in the far right corner, whereas the clear one lets it shine right through. I need to take that plastic out and see if I can remove the spacers so it'll sit flat against the rails to get rid of that (and reposition the flasher at the same time).
Both are great choices for the game..far better than the OG black piece..IMO.
I bought a universal MRS for the first switch on my ramp because it routinely likes to miss it (usually when I'm really stoked to hit it, IE jackpot shots or running a damn red light, which then forces me to hit it again and makes me mad). I had some hopping issues with the way I had my FP40 ramp installed (MY OWN FAULT; I'm in no way attributing my problems to the FP40 ramp and I want to be clear that I'm not!) and that's better now that the ramp has been reinstalled correctly (D'OH!), but still not playing perfectly nicely with my switches here and there. When my HS gets back home I intend to install the switch and see if that alleviates the problem. If it does, that's a cheap fix for something that's causing a whole hell of a lot of frustration on my machine. My game plays fantastically aside from that one issue, so it's the fixture for all of my rage when I play it, lol.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:Where did you get the Universal MRS? I know someone was selling them on Pinside. Sounds like a good fix to a problem that has been around a long time.
Sonic is your man for the MRS switch.
Quoted from PinballAir:My ramp switches always worked well until the droopy clear ramp shield sunk down and stopped the ball from getting up the ramp.
I warmed it up and raised it it.
Now the ball goes thru so fast that from time to time, the switches/ diverter do not activate.
It sucks if you run the red light and send it right back up the ramp and it does not register the escape.
I think the shield has been slowing the ball down since i owned the game. Not enough to prevent getting around ramp but enough to be sure switches made.
Yup. I genuinely feel that the lack of the cover on mine only helps this sort of behavior to manifest. IIRC my switches never failed to activate with the original POS ramp, but it had that nasty cover on it. Feels like a battle between cool aesthetics and proper function, at least on my machine, and that totally sucks.
I'm hoping the MRS fixes my woes. It's definitely frustrating when it doesn't register an escape.
Quoted from The_Great_Man:I have sent a message to Sonic about getting a micro switch for the ramp. Do you need a diode with the MRS? I assume you will just stick the switch underneath the ramp where the old switch was or maybe stick it on the backside of the ramp?
My understanding is that it just gets stuck under the ramp, roughly where the original (first) switch is, and then the wires need soldered in the appropriate spots rather than on the leaf switch. I put one in the spinout on my Taxi but haven't removed the original switch yet (I've been too lazy). It registers the spins correctly but without having removed the old microswitch, it didn't pick up any additional spins. But that's on me for not removing the old switch like I was instructed to do.
Ooooo, got a message from my powder guy this morning. My cheapo ebay high speed wireforms are all done. He fixed the rear mount on the one that was missing and the other side was cracked so he did that one too. Can't wait to install these!
IMG_20210422_140457 (resized).jpgIMG_20210422_140459 (resized).jpgIMG_20210422_140501 (resized).jpgIMG_20210422_140533 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:Veeeeery nice.
Are they candy apple red?
Yup! Man I can't wait to slap those on.
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:How do powder coated wire forms hold up under use? I see people doing it on various machines but nobody comments on if they last? Those sure look nice.
No idea but I'll let you know soon lol. I need to get another set of rails for high speed so I can have him do those (jet black). He did the lock bar and legs with this run. New rails are like $90, yuck!
I'm just going with jet black on the side rails / lock bar / legs. I wanted to try candy red on those too but I'm too chicken -- and too much of a cheap ass, also.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I'm gonna copy off of you LOL.
Cheater!
Jet black all around is the 'safe' play. It seems to look great on just about everything.
I'd love to go crazy with it but I'm just too damn cheap!
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:Pics when it's done please.
Of course!
Quoted from Lovef2k:Well at least copy you on the habit trails candy apple. I have a new lock down bar from PBL and will coin door original black.
I'm half tempted to have him try candy red on the rails, lock bar, and legs.. Now that I realize I actually need to still coat another set of legs (the ones on taxi currently) since all my spares and what are currently on high speed are all WPC legs (4 sets, wtf). Not that it's a high crime to put WPC legs on a sys11 (full rib vs half rib, most wouldn't ever notice), but I might as well do it right if I'm gonna do it...
How hard is it to strip coin doors down so I can send those off for textured splatter black? I have several I want to do but I'm afraid it'll be a PITA.. Tell me I'm wrong!
Ha sorry what I meant was how difficult is it to unbolt whatever I need to remove so he can coat them. He handles all the prep work for me.
High Speed, Taxi, and World Cup Soccer all have meh doors that I'd have done in this splatter black texture. I assume I can just wrap tape around the buttons so the games all think the doors are closed. I just hate shipping three parts off for who knows how long if I have to store a bunch of tiny parts until they're back. Seems I always lose things when I do that.
I still don't technically have my neo geo doors completely back together (who cares, since I don't coin it or have ANY intention of selling, just noting my struggles lol).. 
Quoted from desertT1:Has there ever been an alternate backglass/translite for High Speed?
Nothing official, but I'm sure people have done various things over time. I don't really understand why people don't like the original design..I think it's great. To each their own I suppose.
Quoted from desertT1:I don’t dislike it, but it’s two different artists between the backglass and the playfield and I don’t like when that happens. I have one on location and one in work. I think with a “prettier” backglass it would attract more play. The alternate options for Getaway have some pretty cool designs.
My bad, I just assumed lol. There's been a fair amount of chatter on this thread about it. I love the zombie cops
I played mine up big-time with colored lights and I think it looks great but I'm sure I'd get a real finger shaking from the old guy purists... But they'd hate my hardtop too, and the candy red powdercoated wireforms, and the soon to be candy red rails, lock bar, legs, feet, and bolts... Basically, everyone has their own taste.. Even on the backglass that I love.
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:
Mine has been 2 hours south of me for 5 months now. I need to go pick her up and bring her home..I miss her!
Quoted from desertT1:My project is the one that I did my first hardtop on. Have a bare MPU that Dumbass made and I still have to populate it. Really looking forward to having it flipping again to see how the hardtop feels.
You will LOVE the hardtop on high speed. It plays so silky smooth.
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:I will say... I was not a huge fan of the zombie cops... but when I did the colored lights behind... it looks 1000x better
I like them much much better with blue bulbs behind them.
I paid a LOT for the neato ratcheting one on PBL only to find that it isn't for .100 (in their defense it says so right on their site..I just didn't read) as is commonly found on old Bally and stern. Had to fork over another 35 or so for one from GPE to do that job. Probably won't ever use the ratcheting ones again out of pure spite. Blah.
So I think I'm headed down to pick up my high speed tomorrow. I'm ready for her to be home! And with the frustration from trying to dial in my Eight Ball Deluxe / wrapping up of the Lethal Weapon 3 I picked up, I think it's a good time. Can't wait!
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:How quickly are you gonna throw those new rails on???
The wireforms? IMMEDIATELY.
PXL_20210505_172733140.MP (resized).jpgPXL_20210505_185550677 (resized).jpgMoved it down in pieces and got it all set back up. Adjusted my wonky hideout switch (it might need a bit more yet but it's at least working now). She looks so purdy next to my other Sys11 baby
Still need to install the MRS switch. I'll save that for when I need my next win on something...so, in a couple of hours most likely.
PXL_20210506_145615823 (resized).jpgQuoted from Canuck_pinhead:Great...
My list of things I want to do just got longer!
List right now:
- Hardtop
- Red ramp
- Have wireforms painted
I'm gathering all of the things in order to have all the other metal pieces candy coated also. The rails are my last item but I've been hesitant to pull them off lol
Quoted from joew575:This is what mine looks like now
[quoted image]
MUCH better. Thanks for sharing!
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Topeka, KS
