(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago

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Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (4 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (2 years ago)

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#3954 11 months ago
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#3958 11 months ago

Padawan leaner seeks Jedi Master wise in the ways of hideout switch adjustment.
I have not witnessed it but my son tells me the left hand hideout solenoid goes into random machine gun mode. Diagnostics say it is switches 39 and 40. I've searched and seen several mentions of adjusting them, but actual explanation of how. Can anyone shed some light on the process please? Also saw someone say to just replace them due to age and use.

#3960 11 months ago

One more for tonight. First picture is of the inside of my Laser Ball cabinet. There is a "bar"? that the lock cam engages to hold the door closed. Second picture is my HS. That piece is missing.
First question is-What is that piece called?
Second-Is it the same piece that is missing from HS or is it somehow different?

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#3962 11 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Two different coin door designs.
High Speed has the ALL-In-One door design.
High Speed has a cam that is "T" shaped...OEM Contained two long flat bars that interlocked
with the came and fitted into slots at the top and bottom of the coin door.
The door thus has "Three point of contact".
Laser Ball cabinet......
OEM Williams cabinet design. coin door had a large angle bracket that was fasten buy the
cam lock bolt.
1) Williams coin door bracket #01-6249
2) Williams cam #01-3574-2
3)Williams cam lock cabinet bracket #01-3524-1

That would explain it. I suspect the original door lock may have been drilled out possibly. It has a newer lock in it with a cam like the Laser Ball has. It does not close securely. There is an original style key in the head box that doesn't appear to unlock it. I think that maybe was the door key? Did these come with a single key to open both locks or one key for each?

#3964 11 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I assume High Speed.
The OEM "T" came is made to be offset.
OEM in the box games had two different keys.
1) one for the coin door made by fortlocks of Illinois
2) one for the back box... as above.
Wico had several different after market cam designs to fit different locks.
[quoted image]

Think it was Marcos where I saw the t cam but the arms are out of stock.

#3965 11 months ago

Tonight's questions, if I may. Can anyone provide a picture that shows what the missing piece in my picture looks like? The one on the end of the metal bar above the kicker.
Game says hold flipper button for status. Can anyone enlighten me as to how this works or what status it is supposed to show me? Nothing happens that I can tell when holding the button. Is this supposed to tell you sometj8ng during play or in game over mode?

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#3977 11 months ago

Have some back box questions tonight.
First one is the back glass. Mine has wrinkle/bubbles. Is this something that is fixable? Or should I be looking for new vinyl or a new back glass?
Seller told me it has a remote nvram. Actually looked at it the other day and it is a remote battery holder and the batteries have magic marker on them that says Oct 2018. My other pin has an nvram chip on the board. Did some searching but not finding what I need to add an nvram chip. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Red light on top works fine but seems to make a clickey noise. Is this normal or should it be more quiet?
Last one...1 and 2 player displays seem to have "ghosting?" Top center bits of each digit seems to always show when not used. 3 and 4 seem fine. Is this a display issue or something else? Saw those xpin colored displays. Most were out of stock but the different colors were pretty nice lo9king.

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#3980 11 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Apologies for the bad picture, it's the best I could do with my high speed not here. There should be a metal housing with a screw through it.
[quoted image]

Anyone happen to have a proper name or even part number for this? No luck finding one so far.

#3981 11 months ago
Quoted from Andy_B:

I don't think there us anything you can do with the backglass other than live with it or replace. CPR offer a repro. Why you would bother with such an awful glass is another matter. I absolutely love the pin but that backglass - jeez!
To fit an nvram means unsoldering the 6116 on the CPU and fitting the nvram board. Not a big job if you have the soldering skills.
Does the beacon make a clicky noise as it rotates? Can't remember mine doing that. Is something catching somewhere or is it like a relay click?

Possibly a relay click but I put my finger on the relay as it was going but it didn't seem like I could feel anything.

Andy- You don't like the back glass in general, you don't like mine, or you don't like the repro?

#3985 11 months ago

Thank You Pinflip and Vec-tor! Will put in an order tonight.

Another question-For anyone illuminating the star roll overs, saucer, and flipper buttons-which lamp sockets are you using? I see many different types and not sure what style I should get. Diodes or no diodes? Planning on using LEDS.

#3990 11 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Here is how I did the Stars and Saucer.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Those look good.
What are they and where did you get them? I assume they are white/clear?
And your game looks disgustingly clean!

Found the bulbs and sockets. Just deciding if I should get red or white....

#3999 11 months ago

So I bought new locks and a coin door cam from Pin Life. They did not have the bars for the coin door. Cam does not hold tight against door frame, coin door can open about 1/2". Does this look like correct cam for coin door? Also turns open on it's own if you leave key in. Back box lock works but is tight. I think it turns opposite direction from original as it hits ground cable.

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#4004 11 months ago
Quoted from dmacy:

Hoping someone in the club can help. I'm swapping out a playfield and found this wire nut and an associated wire. Believing it's a flasher but not finding any pics. Does anyone know or can verify?
Or is it a wire break that was pulled through the playfield and through a hole in the plastic? That seems pretty unlikely.
[quoted image]

If I'm looking at it correctly I have a flasher there.

#4010 11 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You have it upside down.

You mean the rounded part should face 12:00 and not 6:00 when open? The lock turns counter clockwise to unlock. That would make the rounded part point towards the middle of the door, not the frame on the outside if I understand you. Did the original lock turn clockwise? That would also help my backbox lock.

1 month later
#4127 9 months ago

Replaced shooter rod, red spring, barrel spring and tip around early December. Forgot to order a sleeve, can still get one. Worked awesome for a while. Could get the ball to go around to the far right so it drops for an upper flipper shot right back up the ramp. Couple weeks ago it seemed to get sluggish again. Noticed greasy looking residue on rod. No, I did not lube anything. Took it apart and cleaned it all again. Seems better but still seems off a bit. Was looking at everything involved and noticed that my ball trough is off from the shooter lane. You can see in pics that ball touches left side off trough and metal on right wall of lane. Judging by black wear on left side of trough it's always been this way. Thinking of thinning down wood on right side of lane to get ball to sit properly. That looks like it would make the shooter rod not line up with the ball though. Maybe try to sand the trough farther to the left? Anyone else have a similar issue?
Looked at it again today. Hard to tell from camera angle but I think I can slim down side piece of wood to 3/8" before rod alignment becomes an issue.
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#4132 9 months ago

Another situation popped up. When I bought my HS it was missing the left hand top flasher bulb. Was kind of a minor issue at the time. Figured I would eventually put a bulb in. In the history of this machine some of the bulbs were replaced with leds, and I suspect some are not non-ghosting. I'm looking to get some leds soon to replace more bulbs.
Anyway, today I stole a flasher bulb from my backbox to try out the top flashers. I don't even know what they are tied to to make them flash. I know you need flasher bulbs in pairs for them to work. So I played a couple games and no flashing. I took a second bulb from the backbox to replace the one on the right. Right hand bulb looked new and is an 89. Backbox bulbs are 63s.
Played a few more games and still no flashing. Put game in test mode and they are not lighting. This game spent some of it's former life in a humid/moist environment but the lamp sockets look okay on the outside. Will have to remove them to get a clear look inside to see if contacts look bad. Wire connections at sockets seem okay, going to try and trace wiring tomorrow to see if I have any bad connections underneath.
Other than that, does anyone have any input as to anything else I can look for or check?

#4135 9 months ago
Quoted from EStroh:

I've seen this on two HS machines. On both there was a break at the ceramic resistor on the board that powers the flashers.

As far as I can tell both resistors are solid as well as the wires connected to the resistor board. Not an easy location!

#4136 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You are correct in saying the bulbs are in pairs wired in series. So if one bulb burns out then neither bulb will work. So start by replacing both bulbs with known working bulbs. If you are using led flash bulbs, you need to insure the the lamp socket is wiring is polarity correct or they will not work. Also when you run a test for the flashers you need to run solenoid test (solenoid #22) and not a lamp test. During a game this flasher is controlled by the two roll over switches at the top of the game. If new bulbs don't work in solenoid test you can take a jumper wire with one end tied to the ground braid, touch the other end to the metal tab of Q-79. If they work with the jumper and not in test, you have a board issue. If they don't work in test or with the jumper you have a playfield issue.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yes, I wound up stealing two bulbs from the backbox flashers that were working. Haven't gotten replacements yet and figured I would just put the replacements in the backbox.
Yes, I was looking for them to flash during solenoid test not lamp test.
Did not know about insuring correct polarity for leds. Thought you just needed to clip one lead on the respective 330 ohm resistor.
If you could be so kind as to point me at the metal tab of Q79 that would be awesome. I have a manual but have to be honest and say I have a bit of a learning curve ahead of me.....
Found it! Touch jumper to the part that looks like a mounting tab......

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#4139 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Your a fast learner!

Finally found them in the manual, then I could find Q78. Then found Q 80. Took a bit to find Q79. Tried jumping with machine on, and in game mode. Nada. Did try and make sure to scrape the jumper around to get contact. Guess I'm back to chasing wires! And of course they are all "down there" where it's hardest to see.

#4142 9 months ago

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Not sure what happened to my typing.
All appears wired as you describe. Only difference being there are two black wires together on the end of the 330 ohm resistor. The blue black wire looks like yellow with a thin blue line and black stripes. Don't have an alligator clip so I had to twist jumper around ground braid. No flashing occurred from touching either wire.

#4144 9 months ago

Progress-sort of. Tested for power at red wire. 25v. Tested at brown wire on right lamp socket-nada. For giggles I tested orange wire at resistor- nada. Went back and did it again. Same results. Now I check brown wire for continuity, says good. Now I start checking bulbs, sockets etc.. So it turns out, that the left lamp socket is bent upward enough that the little rivet looking piece is touching the screw that holds the socket in place. Bent lamp socket straight again and boom! 25v at each location! Went back to touching a jumper to Q79. The snap of a few sparks, a quick whiff of ozone, and the lamp blazed forth in all it's glory! Went to solenoid test-nada. So what do I have to look forward to in a board issue?

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#4146 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you have a logic probe?

No, but are the $20 ones on Amazon sufficient?

#4150 9 months ago

A previous owner replaced the two bulbs next to the flippers, one on each side, with leds. They seem to take turns being bright or dim at random. Could these be not_ non ghosting bulbs? Noticed on Comet's bulbs they are marked "NG". Hard to see in pic but the ones I have installed only say 6vac.

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#4157 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You will be poking at these parts. They are on the CPU board.
U-50 is a TTL level NOR chip. It's truth table is below. Zeros are lows and ones are highs.
Q-78 Is a signal transistor, part # 2n4401
Q-79 Is a Darlington Pair high current transistor. It actually is 2 transistors, 2 resistors and a diode in one package.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have to be honest. I'm good with the items you are talking about. How does one probe them exactly?

#4158 9 months ago

Have to be honest. I'm good with the items you are talking about. How does one probe them exactly?

#4161 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There are 2 clips to connect, the black to ground just to the left of the battery holder and red clip to the 5 volt test point by the ram chip. Set the switch to TTL because that's the logic chips you will be testing. Now you can touch the pointed tip to places that needs testing. So if you place game in solenoid test, and lock it on solenoid #22. The machine will now turn on the enable signal ( U-50 pin 6) and also send a pulsed test signal to U-50 pin 5. The base of Q-78 needs a high signal to turn on. If you look at the truth table for a NOR chip you will see there is only one way to get a high output, you need to have both inputs low. Now with the machine in test, U-50 pin 6 should be low and pin 5 will be high with low pulses. When you test pin 4 you should get a low with a high pulse. If all this test correctly you know that U-50 is working. Then you move on to Q-78 and test. The pin out shows that the middle lead is the base, and if U-50 is working correctly there should be a low with high pulses at Q-78 base lead. If this is correct you move on to the base of Q-79. The pin out shows that the left lead is the base, If Q-78 is working it will have a high pulse going from the collector thru it and out the emitter to Q-79 base lead. If the base of Q-79 has a low with a high pulse on it then you know that Q-78 is working correctly. Lastly probe Q-79 collector while still in solenoid test, You should get a high signal with a low pulse on it. If you don't then the TIP 122 is bad. TIP 122s can be replaced with TIP 102s as they are 60% stronger.

Okay, if I'm doing this correctly-
U-50 pin 6 = low
U-50 pin 5 = high
U-50 pin 4 = low

However, I'm not seeing any indication of pulsing. I bought the exact logic probe you have. It looks like the other light should blink for pulses? Can you direct me to something else to check that should pulse just so I can verify that probe works and I can see how pulses are indicated?

#4163 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Sounds like you are doing this correctly to me.
Did you have the game in solenoid test? On solenoid #22?

Yes, coil 22. Top flasher.

#4169 9 months ago

Using the same U-50 chip and same pins I am getting the same results.

U-50 pin 6 L
U-50 pin 5 H
U-50 pin 4 L
No pulsing.

I've included pics so you can make sure I'm doing it correctly.

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#4171 9 months ago

Okay, I'll take the hit on testing the wrong pins. Went back and did it again.

U-50 pin 3 L
U-50 pin 2 H
U-50 pin 1 L
Again, no pulsing.

I did poke a few random pins to test as to whether or not probe is registering them. I did find a pin that made it pulse.

#4173 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When you were on solenoid 21 test, was the lower pop bumper firing? Did you see the green/red arrows on the probe alternating while testing?

Nothing was firing and don't think arrows were alternating. The pulse light flickered once or twice but that's all.

#4175 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Now we are getting somewhere.
Start the solenoid test over again from the beginning, note down which solenoids don't work.

Interesting. Seems that 17 through 22 are not working in test mode. Guess I should check it regularly!

#4177 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Ok, this is what I was thinking was going on. Lets go back one chip and do some more testing. Put the game back in solenoid test for #22. Find U-49 and tests pins 13 and 12. Both should be pulsing in test.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Both test high with no pulse.

#4180 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I see from you CPU pics that U-51 and U-54 are both in sockets, you could remove both chips and swap them. Then retest for pulses on U-49 as before. But you need to be very careful when removing and installing chips so you don't damage the chips or sockets.

Swapped chips. Both still test high with no pulse. Still no coil firing during test.

#4183 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So then U-49 must be bad. Are you capable of this type of repair?

Unsolder and resolder U-49? Going to need to be. Also have an nvram socket to install. Bought the cheap ass solder sucker off Amazon. Soldered lots of crap over the years, but don't recall working on circuit boards before.

#4184 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Also have you tried the top flashers in a game? Just because they don't work in solenoid test doesn't mean they wont work during a game now that you fixed the bulb socket.

Yes, been playing game a lot. No flashers during play.

#4186 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Ok so put the game in solenoid test on #22. Probe U-50 pin 5, then push one of the 2 upper play field switches that trigger the upper flashers. Does pin 5 switch from high to low?

The rollovers? Negative.

#4190 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Normally the 6 special solenoids are controlled by a switch on the playfield, but this special solenoid is controlled by the computer. Which means U-49 has to work for these flasher to work during game play. The other 5 special solenoids has playfield switches so they work during a game but not in test. If you want to do a final test you can hook up a jumper wire to the ground braid and touch the other end to the connector J-19 pin 9. If the driver and predriver and the nor chip are working the flash lamps will light when pin 9 is grounded.

Yes it does flash when jumped this way. So I'm replacing U-49? What is it called and where can I find one?

#4194 9 months ago

For .85 each is it worth buying extras? Haven't checked the shipping yet.

#4199 9 months ago

Going to put my ignorance out here for all to see.... Can anyone point out which chip I am removing to install an nvram socket/chip?

#4204 9 months ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Going to put my ignorance out here for all to see.... Can anyone point out which chip I am removing to install an nvram socket/chip?

Found it! Good ol' U-25!

#4205 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

U-25, be very careful when removing old chip. Best to cut old chip off and pull each leg one at a time, then clear all holes. Solder in new socket and install chip.

You're not from the school that says save old one in case you need it test something in the future? Does sound easier your way. Now I need one of those little cutters.
Don't happen to know anything about Stargate cocktail tables do you? Need to do an nvram upgrade on that also. Only chip I see that looks like the right one has more pins than the nvram.

#4208 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Saving the chip is fine IF you have the equipment and experience to remove them without damaging the board. Remember the board is 400.00 the chip is 5.00.
As far as the stargate goes, i don't have any knowledge on them. But I do know there are different sizes of NVram chips available for different size ram chips.

Your logic is sound.

#4227 9 months ago

New item for my to-do list. Been noticing lately that when the ball gets kicked out of the right hide out I hear a clunk by the left flipper. Finally looked at the right moment, and yup, the kicker by the left flipper flipper kicked as the ball got kicked out of the right hideout. Not sure if kicker was lit or not, going to have to keep watching.

#4230 9 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Try replacing the diode on the hide out coil.

Will check it later to see what one it is. Don't suppose it was one of your recommended items to justify shipping from the earlier post.
The 1N4007.....

#4232 9 months ago

Awesome! Nice when once in a while something goes your way. Now if my package from Great Plains would get out from being stuck in USPS hell.

#4236 9 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Just one thing missing here.... soon she will be home again...
[quoted image][quoted image]

I almost bought a Space Shuttle but the deal fell through and that's how I wound up with High Speed. How do you like the Space Shuttle?

#4245 9 months ago

Okay, installed my cap kit on my ps today. Was kind of nervous as I've never done it before. No magic smoke was released and game appears to play normally. Did not reflow all the pins, again, as I've never done it before. Did do two that looked iffy. Rest seemed tight and I was concerned that I would leave pins crooked if I pushed my luck. Only question I have is should I replace the plug shown? Couple dark spots but other half of plug looks fine.

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#4247 9 months ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

Yes. Heat is created by resistance to electron flow.
It will only get worse.
Get what you need at great plains electronics.
Ed is a great guy.

So what exactly do I replace-just the plug, plug and pins, or wire from the board with pins and plug?

#4249 9 months ago

Okay, so did I screw something up or am I missing something? Installed an nvram chip today. Was nervous about doing it and this could be why. Found a couple other issues that I want to post but right now game is not starting. Plug it in everything seems okay. Got the adjust failure message, reset game, and it won't play. Push the start button and it makes the engine cranking sound but that's it. All lights work, attract mode works, buy no game play. Installer error or reprogramming issue?

#4251 9 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Did you remember to set it back to freeplay? lol
Sounds like what I'd expect to see happen when batteries were removed and then re-inserted (or in this case, NVRAM installed)..

Just ran down and threw a quarter in and it worked so must be free play! Thanks for pointing out my error!

#4254 9 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Bwahahahaha, got ya with the little stuff!
Good job on the NVRAM install! Head into the service menu and set it to freeplay again and you're good to go.

I'm more than happy to have it be something dumb. I've had the nvram for over a month but was hesitant to do it. Battery holder has already been replaced. Did not get a picture yet of what was in it.

#4255 9 months ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Never done NVRAM, but doesn't it take a while to charge? Engine sound but no game start??? Balls in the trough?

Can't answer you about the charging, not really sure.
Apparently, in a pay to play environment if you push the start button without putting quarters in it just makes the engine cranking sound, as if your car is having engine trouble and won't start. Switched it to freeplay and all is well.

#4257 9 months ago

This-this is what a former owner of my game put inside. Kind of embarrassing that I left it in there this long.

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#4266 8 months ago

Upgraded my flashers to LEDs. Disconnected the black wire from each of the 330 ohm resistors. Flashers look and work great except for the two red light flashers on left side. Was unable to notice it during game play but in solenoid test they just do one weak "flick". Incans did still work after removing black wire prior to switching bulbs. Anyone have any ideas?

#4267 8 months ago

I may have a remote battery holder for sale.....

#4269 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check the wires for the correct polarity on the bulb sockets.

Will check tonight. Also noticed earlier that the kickback light is now staying on all the time. Don't know if it's related.

#4271 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Shouldn't be related to the flasher issue. You did insulate the ground wires you removed from the resistor boards?

Yes, shrink wrapped them.

#4275 8 months ago

So here we go.
Two steps forward and one step back. While kludging around switching incans and LEDs and trying to do a polarity test that I'm not sure I was doing right ( Dammit Jim I'm a doctor not an electrical engineer!)I actually got the LED flashers working. Turns out my gorilla fingers touching things were jiggling around the upper flasher lamp socket. Said socket is apparently loosely put together and making intermittent connection. I have it stabilized for the moment and working but will need to replace it.

As for my kickback light staying on, now the kickback isn't kicking back(Who doesn't like a little kickback?). Didn't really get to check that yet but noticed it when I played a couple games after my flasher thrashing.

#4283 8 months ago

Is it normal or not normal for the game to knock when awarded an extra ball? Game was not knocking before but is now. Not sure which way I like it better but could not find how to change it.

#4285 8 months ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Does the knocker work in test mode? If so, I had an issue with mine not working during gameplay and this was the solution.

Yes, I had to change it from credit to extra ball. It knocked before when you were awarded a credit. Now it knocks for a free ball. Just not sure which is "normal".

#4294 8 months ago

When hitting the flippers my LED flashers get a "flick" most times. Flipper switches look like former owner replaced them. They look new, clean, and spaced properly. Would adding the capacitors that newer flippers use stop the "flicking"?

#4300 8 months ago

Okay, I replaced the hex buffer at U49. Put it in coil test and no top flashers. Going through the coil tests the remaining coils that were not firing were now firing in test mode except for 19 r. jet bumper. It has been working during game play, so I tried to play a game to test it. As soon as I push start the right kicker locks on until I turn game off. Did that 3 times. Tried to go back into test mode to see if that now showed up. As soon as I start pushing buttons to get to coil test the right pop bumper starts chattering and locking on I think. Turned it off for the night at that point and unplugged it. Did I screw something up or is the replaced hex buffer amplifying another issue?

#4304 8 months ago

While I had my board out I could see that a few parts have already been swapped out and other work had been done. Forgot to look up name of part but plastic case is damaged. Resistors look like the "mortar" is breaking down. Jumper wire on back bypassing bad trace.

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#4313 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Not sure yet, there will have to be some testing done first to know.
Start by removing 1J-19 connector from the cpu. This will stop all special solenoids from working so you don't melt a coil. Then connect your logic probe up and turn on the game. Probe the 6 wires on 1J-19 connector, what do you get?

Starting from top:
Orange/violet- nothing

No pulsing.
Colors do not follow schematic.

#4316 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

My mistake, I need you to probe 1J-18. Leave it connected and probe the six orange wires.

Top most orange wire reads low. Rest read high.

#4337 8 months ago

Grumpy-Have you been able to come up with anything else I can test? Sorry to be a pain.....

Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I'm very very very rarely a fan of anything other than black on the coin door. Splatter black powder is my go to for just about anything I don't desire to be glossy.
When I do doors for various games, I will almost certainly do them *all* how I had my neo geo done.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Saw a post on FB where someone had a coin door media blasted then powder coated. I guess there was some heat build up and now his frame is warped quite a bit.

#4341 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Remove the connector from J-18 and test the pins on the board with the logic probe.

From top down they read:

#4343 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I don't how this could happen, but the activation switch for the pop bumper is closed. Did you also do some work under the play field too?

Only disconnected the small resistors for the flashers.

#4345 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It could just be a coincidence then. Lift the play field a look at the right pop activation switch contacts. They should be open until you push on the skirt. If they are open, then there is a cap mounted to the switch that may have shorted out making it seem like the switch is closed. You can cut the lead of the cap to retest.

Will check it tomorrow. Would this be connected to the right kicker at all or could it be the same switch/capacitor situation? I only ask because they worked fine prior to swapping the hex buffer.

#4346 8 months ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Will check it tomorrow. Would this be connected to the right kicker at all or could it be the same switch/capacitor situation? I only ask because they worked fine prior to swapping the hex buffer.

Capacitor covering is "split?", not sure if that is an indicator as to whether or not it is bad. Can't read any of the pop bumper caps to identify them.

20210207_140723 (resized).jpg20210207_140727 (resized).jpg
#4352 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Just a shrink wrap covering, no big deal.

This is the switch that needs to be open.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Checked around under the playfield today. Switches appeared to be okay. A couple of the little metal tabs on the switches that the wires are soldered to were really close. Straightened them out and all seems well. Top flashers are flashing but only during chase I think. Need to play a few more games and watch. They are not flashing when ball hits rollover. Does this sound correct?

Will recheck the other part of that switch.

#4353 8 months ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Checked around under the playfield today. Switches appeared to be okay. A couple of the little metal tabs on the switches that the wires are soldered to were really close. Straightened them out and all seems well. Top flashers are flashing but only during chase I think. Need to play a few more games and watch. They are not flashing when ball hits rollover. Does this sound correct?
Will recheck the other part of that switch.

Okay, so cancel that. Game played fine but I did not notice top flashers flashing this time. Put it it coil test and top flashers are flashing. Right bumper was also not firing on it's turn. My left flasher lamp base is wonky and I need to get a replacement. Left flashers were not flashing. I left it in the left flasher position to fiddle with it to get it working. Before I got anywhere I noticed the right bumper started releasing some magic smoke so I turned game off. Frustrating because game played just fine 5 minutes before. Checked bumper switched and both are open. Did not try cutting capacitor yet. Guess that's my next move tomorrow. Coil is quite hot right now.

#4354 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Are these 2 tabs touching or is it just a bad pic angle?
[quoted image]

Bad pic angle really. They were not touching but were really close.

#4361 8 months ago

So I cut the capacitor on the right pop bumper. Put game in coil test and everything tested fine. Played a game to test it out. Played fine until the third ball when I started getting some random bumps on the right pop bumper. It wasn't hammering away or locking on, just a few random pops and the ring seemed to be mostly staying in the middle. I turned game off before any more magic smoke could come out. Could the bypassed capacitor cause this behavior or am I still chasing gremlins? Tried to figure out which capacitors they are but could not find them on GPE. Anyone able to help identify them? 22uf 25v radial capacitor?
Also- I have the instruction manual but where can I find the playfield schematics? Found a 78 page trouble shooting system 9 manual online that mentions High Speed but I haven't gotten all the way through it yet.

20210208_221042 (resized).jpg20210208_221320 (resized).jpg20210208_221447 (resized).jpg20210208_221527 (resized).jpg
#4363 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Maybe a good starting point would be to replace all 5 on the game with new. Then retest.
Oh yeah, make sure they go in the correct direction.

Where are the other 2? Only saw these 2 other types.
Okay, I see now that 2 are the 50v ones you show. That would explain why I could not find 25v ones. The larger ones are snubbers I think.

20210207_142639 (resized).jpg20210207_142739 (resized).jpg
#4366 8 months ago

So Great Plains is currently not doing any shipping due to staffing and backlog. Found these at Micro Center. Since it looks like 2 have already been replaced I'll do the three pop bumpers seeing as how they don't have enough available currently.


#4368 8 months ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Oh no, don't tell me that... I have an order in, waiting to be shipped..

News on home page says one person working......

My last order was placed on Jan 19. Received it on Feb 3.

#4374 8 months ago

So while I'm waiting on capacitors I'm still having an issue with my kick back. Cleaned and adjusted switch because it was missing a kick back here and there. Now it sometimes takes 2 or 3 shots at the ball to kick it out. Could this be the resistor (doesn't look like a capacitor)on the coil? Time for a new coil? New switch and see what happens?

#4375 8 months ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

So while I'm waiting on capacitors I'm still having an issue with my kick back. Cleaned and adjusted switch because it was missing a kick back here and there. Now it sometimes takes 2 or 3 shots at the ball to kick it out. Could this be the resistor (doesn't look like a capacitor)on the coil? Time for a new coil? New switch and see what happens?

This is why I hate pinball. Fiddled with the switch some more and opened it up a bit wider. Seems to be behaving for now.

#4384 8 months ago

By the way Grumpy I want to thank you for all your help. My flashers are flashing properly and I owe it all too you!

#4399 8 months ago

Installed new capacitors on my pop bumpers. Was having am issue with the right bumper which seems to be fixed now. Took almost an hour to get all the switches working properly afterwards. Now the top bumper is acting quirky. A couple of times the metal ring dropped and stayed down, and while down the ball seemed to be magnetized to it. The ball was swinging around it until I turned the game off. While looking under the playfield I can see that the coil wires have been re-soldered but not sure why they were removed/replaced. The coil pistons seem to have a fair amount of slop in them and I don't know what is considered normal. Am I looking at more switch adjustment to fix this issue or could the piston be binding in the sleeve?

#4401 8 months ago

My kickback was firing intermittently when the ball got kicked out of the right hideout so I replaced the hideout diode and after a couple dozen games that seems to have done the trick. I'm still having a small issue with the kickback itself. It seems like about once a week the ball just rolls through without it activating. I clean and fidget with the switch and it goes back to working. Switch looks original and the little contact nubs look better than some of my other switches. Would changing this diode have any effect with it working properly or should I try a new switch? Not sure what else might work.

#4404 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes, and never reuse a diode.

Wouldn't reuse the diode. Still have 19 more new ones.

#4405 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes, and never reuse a diode.

Wouldn't reuse the diode. Still have 19 more new ones.

#4406 8 months ago

Okay, so played a few games today and the kickback was firing with the right hideout again. Could this be related to the kickback diode considering my other issue? Driving me nuts now.

#4408 8 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Did you change out the diode on the snubber relay too?

Nope, didn't think about that. Same diode I assume. Will try later or this weekend. Looks like I'm shoveling more snow today.

And again I'm questioning myself. The diode I changed is on the switch for the hideout. I did not see one on or near the coil. Thinking about it I'm not sure the switch diode would really make a difference. It seems more likely to be the snubber diode unless I just could not see a diode on the hideout coil.

1 week later
#4449 7 months ago

Finally got around to working on my right hideout setting off the kickback. I've been watching it as I play and it seems like sometimes as the ball rolls over the bottom hideout switch on it's way in it would set off the kickback. It also sometimes would set off the kickback as the ball gets shot out of the hideout. I replaced the diodes on the bottom switch, hideout coil, and snubber(believe Grumpy mentioned also replacing that one). Hideout is not firing now. When game starts I can hear and see the blue relay to the left of the coil clicking several times then stopping. I used 1n4007 diodes. I believe that is okay being slightly higher than the 1n4001 on the switch and the 1n4003s on the coil and snubber. Let me know if I am wrong. Did I kludge something up or are new diodes negatively affecting something else? Was planning on replacing snubber capacitors at some point. Could not do a coil test as my wife was sleeping. She did not appreciate all the noise last time I did tests when she was sleeping.....Will test them tomorrow. In retrospect I guess I could do one diode at a time and test but did not think of it.

EDIT: So today I ran a coil test. Kickback not working, kickers not working, both hideouts not working, no pop bumbers are working, top flashers not working. All fuses intact, all connectors appear connected.
20210302_221824 (resized).jpg

#4452 7 months ago

Grumpy- Do not have the bridge board upgrade yet but I plan on it. Can you give me a little direction on checking the coil power bridge rectifier? I believe it is the upper one of the two? Am I just putting a DMM across the orange and black wire terminals?

Did not change diode on relay. Should I?

Am fairly certain diodes I installed are oriented properly. My OCD makes me question myself. I did compare them to their counterparts on the left hideout and bands appear to be in the same direction but I will check them again later. Trying to juggle too many things this morning.

If I am to check across the rectifier from the orange to black wire I have 32 volts. Rechecked my diodes and fuses today. Noticed upon closer inspection this fuse looked like it had a smudge on it. Turns out it blew. Not sure where it goes to but maybe it's what's holding me up now. Going to pick some up tomorrow.

20210305_175721 (resized).jpg
#4454 7 months ago

Replaced blown fuse. Everything was working in test mode. Kickback would pop out but not immediately go back in. Seemed like left kicker or something else firing would make it go back. Didn't get any further with it yet. During game play right hideout fires, but does not have the power to shoot the ball out. Did not change diode on relay yet. Not sure if that will help it or not.
Coil was loose in bracket the other day so I tightened it up but it moves freely.

#4458 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

A loose coil, wear on the plunger link holes, a dirty sleeve, a dry pivot pin are a few reasons for a weak coil. Could also be burnt contacts on the relay caused by a bad snubber board capacitor/diode. The blue and brown wires on the relay can also be moved to the opposite side terminals and you will have a new set of contacts to use for another 35 years.
[quoted image][quoted image]

What can be used on a dry pivot pin? I thought lubrication is a no-no.

#4460 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

The blue and brown wires on the relay can also be moved to the opposite side terminals and you will have a new set of contacts to use for another 35 years.
[quoted image][quoted image]

It looks as if there are jumpers connecting both sets of terminals where the blue and brown wires are attached. Will moving them over actually make them use the other set of contacts? Plus both of these relays have cracked cases that come right off.

20210307_183239 (resized).jpg
#4462 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I have an early run pin so my machine has different relays then yours. Having both contacts jumpered like yours is the best way to run. So just replace the diode.

Replaced diode. Disassembled coil and cleaned it all. One drop of CLP on pin. Seems smooth as butter. Still not kicking ball out. Should I replace snubber capacitors? They may be the only caps I have not replaced. What about the other resistor(?) in between the diode and the capacitor? . Is it possible for micro switch wire to be sticking up too high and slowing ball down? Coil is reading 6.0 ohms FWIW. Anything else to try? Itching to play......!

#4464 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So its not a friction issue now. All that is left is a power or ground problem. Do you have a jumper wire with some alligator clips? You can connect one end of the jumper to the ground braid and the other end to the snubber board terminal where the brown/black wires connect to test the ground wire. Retest with a ball in the hideout. You can also test the power by connecting the jumper wire to the purple/yellow wire on the left hide out coil to the purple/yellow wire on the right hide out coil. Then retest.

With both jumper arrangements I let the ball roll down into the hideout. Grounding set up didn't seem to do anything helpful. Let it kick about 4-5 times before shutting off machine. Repeated with same result. Connecting jumper to power did shoot the ball out twice then kept kicking. Repeated again and did not kick ball out, just kept kicking.

#4466 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Sounds like it's time for a new relay then. You said that the cover comes off easy. Remove the cover and look at the point contacts, are they burnt?

They seemed pretty clean when I examined them.

You said there are different relays used? Mine is the DPDT type yes?

#4468 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Correct. On early games like mine there are automotive 12 volt black cube relays with a dropping resistor and no snubber boards.

Looked real quick and think Marco's had 24 v relays. Would that be correct?

Marco's does not have correct relay. Relays in machine are 13 amp. Found a local place that has 10 amp relays. Would that work as a replacement or no?

Was able to find them at PBR.

#4469 7 months ago

Anyone know if these work with HS? Couldn't copy the link for some reason.

Screenshot_20210309-151243_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg
#4471 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes they would work with some reworking of the wiring.

Any chance you would be able to enlighten me as to how to do that? It would take more than just connecting the existing wires to the proper terminals?

#4473 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes and no, you would also need to find standoffs and screws to mount the board. Make new holes in the playfield for mounting.

Start by unsoldering all the wires from the relay and snubber board, then remove both items.
Find a good location to mount the new snubber board, hopefully where all the old wires can reach.
Find some circuit board standoffs (pic below) like these from PBL for mounting.
Connect the 2 black wires to the ground terminal.
Connect the 2 red wires to the power terminal.
Connect the grey/black wire to the drive terminal.
Do not connect anything to the NC terminal.
Connect the blue wire from the hideout coil to the coil terminal.
You will have 1 brown and 1 blue wire left over, you do not need them as you are done and ready to test it.[quoted image]

These eliminate the relays? Was looking to rebuild the snubbers but thought these might be a good upgrade. Are they a decent upgrade or nothing special?

#4478 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Sounds like it's time for a new relay then. You said that the cover comes off easy. Remove the cover and look at the point contacts, are they burnt?

How confident are you that it's my relays? I only ask because I'm hoping this does it. Have company coming next weekend and really want to show off a bit......!

#4479 7 months ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I stand corrected, there is one upgrade to using this replacement snubber board. The resistor is a larger wattage then the original that is usually burnt to a crisp just like yours on your game.

Could the resistor be causing my problems?

#4482 7 months ago

Got my relays delivered and installed the one in the right hideout. First off the tabs on the new relay are smaller so it kind of sucked soldering them. Was still randomly not pushing the ball out. Seemed like the bottom switch protruded higher than the left side so I bent it a bit to mirror the left side. Ball seems to shoot out fine now. Occasionally the hideout will fire a second time after the ball is well out of the hideout. Thinking maybe it's the side switch causing that? Will check it out when I can. Also think the kickback is still randomly firing with the hideout. Assume I should try swapping that diode next.

1 month later
#4591 5 months ago

Lights in back box appear to be wired in 2 circuits. This just happened, was not inside doing anything. See nothing obvious wrong. Anyone have an idea where to start?

20210502_151007 (resized).jpg
#4594 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

As Lovef2k said above.
Here are pics of the areas to look at.
I would start with the fuse that has the White/Green wire. Just replace it if you do not have a way to test it.
[quoted image]
Check the Green and White/Green wire on the back of the light board.
[quoted image]
Check this connector on your Power supply 3J8
[quoted image]

Ah! Possibly found the culprit. Is there a name for these other than "9 pin connector"?

20210502_180054 (resized).jpg
#4596 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

yes, that is a lot of heat build up. That is called an IDC connector. Factory used them due to quickness of assembly, no crimping needed. However as time wears on they will become worn out and fail due to loose connection. Best thing to do is replace the whole connector with:
Trifucon crimp connector:

Thank You! Just put an order in for a bunch of the 9 pin connectors. Think I counted 18 in there so I guess I can start replacing them all over time.

#4598 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Yes, Best to replace them all. You will need the crimper tool as well. As you can see in the picture I need to do mine as well.
I have replaced a couple that were bad but need to get the rest done. There are several pins that have 2 wires running to 1 connector. You cannot crimp both in the same connector. You will need to get creative. There are several thread posts that address this issue.

They work with a standard crimper no?

#4601 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

No, you need a molex crimp tool. There are many different kinds, Here is a basic one from amazon:
amazon.com link »

Of course. I own 5 crimpers and can't find #5. None of them are molex crimpers. Thought my spark plug wire crimpers would work as they have changeable jaws, but noth8ng for molex. Ordered one from Amazon.

#4604 5 months ago

Wow, Digikey is in no damn hurry to ship my order.

#4607 5 months ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

is it not shipped yet? they have shipped relatively fast with my past orders.

Under status it just says "submitted".

#4609 5 months ago

Just gets more awesome. Was playing tonight and thought I heard an odd noise but wasn't sure. Next thing, I notice the magic smoke coming up around the right pop bomber. Turn game off and lift playfield, smell the burn. Can't see anything out of the ordinary but damn near burnt myself when I touched the coil for that pop bumper. Need to let it cool before I can do anything else but it seems like that bumper mechanism isn't springing up and down like the others. Not sure if the sleeve heated up and deformed or if the mechanism caused the issue. Game seemed to be playing normally, didn't notice an issue with the bumper. I did notice that the lower bumper has a different coil than the other two. Is that normal? I would think they would all 3 be the same.
Anyone know if rebuilding the bumpers would do the trick or should I be looking for a different cause? Will try and get a better look tomorrow when it all cools down.
Have 2 machines down now. Anyone an expert on a Laser Ball with flippers that stopped working?

#4612 5 months ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

If the coil got too hot it will swell and cause the plunger to not move freely which is why it appears to be stuck.
Are the coils different by mfr or numbers?

Will double check tomorrow but one coil is a Williams and the other two are I guess no-names and different numbers.

#4613 5 months ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Coil is definitely fried. It must have stuck on somehow. Transistor on board may be fried as well. I like to use solenoid savers for system 11s.

Yes, want to get the solenoid saver but I thought they need to be rewired for sys 11.
Which transistor would be the one to check?

#4620 5 months ago

So I got a better look today. Right bumper not moving now, I guess the sleeve did heat and seize. Two of the coils are AE-24-900-2. They are not correct but I don't know enough to say how they differ from the correct ones. Have an order ready for Marcos. They don't have the switches, but mine look okay. Did not see the spoon part but will check again before I submit the order. Hard to tell how they are without disassembly but one looks more bumped out than the other. Don't really want to break down the switches just for them but might as well.

As far as coils, I saw a post by Vid stating that the piece with the wire and diode should be moved to the upper end of the coil to help insulate it from the shock of the plunger bottoming out. Anyone do this?

Also, how will I know if the transistor is fried? Will it damage my new parts if so or will the bumper just not work?

#4636 5 months ago
Quoted from koji:

Figured I'd share this.. the GI between the two plastics on the left side always bugged me.. especially when using LEDs this can glare quite a bit.
Anyway, I had a bunch of these bendies I bought in a bulk lot.. just enough room to twist around and light up the left kickout, and no more glare in my eye
[quoted image]

I used the double bendies to light my flipper buttons, start button, saucer, and rollovers. There are 3 bulbs on the playfield that I feel glare too much. This might be the solution I was looking for.

1 week later
#4645 5 months ago

Anyone ever deal with any humming issues? In it's past life in my HS the grey 3-wire going from the sound board down to the rheostat in the cabinet for volume control I guess got broken and had a new piece spliced in. I have a hum that comes from the speakers. It's not too bad but it is annoying because I have to assume it's not normal. Would replacing the wire with a new full length piece and a new rheostat do anything to fix the hum? I've heard of people isolating grounds and using separate power supplies to stop humming but was thinking my easy fix might help.

20210522_211446 (resized).jpg20210522_211456 (resized).jpg20210522_211515 (resized).jpg
#4648 5 months ago
Quoted from nocreditdot:

Agree with this. Also is the ground prong cut off the cord?

Nope, cord is good. I just keep looking at the splice job someone did and hate it. Was hoping it might fix the hum. Will definitely fix my OCD!

1 month later
#4665 4 months ago

Anyone using a Rottendog mpu? Been reading up on them and user satisfaction seems to be hit or miss. Checking because I've been chasing a gremlin on my original board and still having issues. Want to look into a second board be it the Rottendog or a used original. Several boards on ebay all say untested.

1 week later
#4677 3 months ago

So I took a chance and bought a used untested board because the price was right. Board looks in decent shape, has minimal corrosion which I cleaned up. Ram was already socketed so I removed corroded battery holder and put my nvram in. Turn on game and nothing but gi lighting works. Game does not start up and displays don't work. Working on getting my original board fixed and had hoped to get lucky with this one. Guess I will have 2 boards going out for repair. Was hoping someone had an idea of what I could check on this board to maybe get it going. Has 5, 12, and 18 volts where it's supposed to.

#4679 3 months ago
20210710_184515 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#4767 71 days ago

Will try and keep this short but here goes....
Three months ago I had a pop bumper lock on and fry during a game. Pulled the playfield and completely rebuilt the pop bumpers. Did a few other chores while I had it out and also found some frayed wires that I repaired. Grumpy was gracious enough to do some noob hand-holding and guide me through some cpu repair related to the special solenoid section. I would have to look at the board to refresh my memory but I think I wound up replacing Q72,Q73, U45, U49, U50 and SR20. Basically Grumpy would have me test something and advise me on replacement. I would order parts, wait for the mail, replace and retest. Was taking a bit of time with all the back and forth and I had an issue with Pinside no longer letting me send images in messages. Main issue at this point is that 1J18 is not getting 5 volts on the solenoid pins and causes the solenoids to act eradically, locking on, not firing, etc.. I can't thank Grumpy enough for his help and patience with me. Somewhere around this time the wife started squeaking about how long things were taking. She wanted to play, had some family over she wanted to play, etc. I started looking into local repair people. Several said they don't work on system 11s, others outright ghosted me. So I got desperate. Looked into Rottendog boards. Online reviews are extremely hit and miss with them it seems. Contacted a dealer who had them in stock and also contacted Rottendog to express my concerns with reported issues with them. The dealer was not familiar with issues that other people have had. Rottendog says use the newest roms and new processors and it will be fine. It was not fine. Had the same sounds issues many others complained about and it was also making my playfield lights flash along with random sounds, especially the engine revving sound. Was able to return board for a full refund. At this time I had also looked into Dumbass's boards. Initially he indicated that with his work load it might take a few weeks to get me a board which is one reason I tried the Rottendog as I was able to get it in a few days. Hindsight is always a wonderful thing..... I was fortunate enough that Dumbass wound up with a board that was for someone else but they cancelled so I purchased it. Enter the United States Postal Service. It was shipped with 2 day shipping. Two days after shipping it showed it went to a processing center where it promptly disappeared into the void of lost packages for two weeks. Tracking showed nothing for 15 days and then it shows arrived at my post office and it's out for delivery. Also had a Christmas card delivered in February this year. Don't ask me what I think about the USPS right now. So I finally get my Dumbass board. This thing is sexy! First off the boards are red if you are unfamiliar with them. Everything is clean and precise and perfect looking. It looks like a machine built it. I hate hiding it in my back box. So the chowder head installer(me) accidentally cross-pinned one connection and fried a few fuses and had to wait until Monday to pick some up. Another long story short and it wasn't functioning properly. Turned out I needed to replace one of the PIA chips which Dumbass sent me a replacement for. Game is spot on now! Sound is great, rebuilt pop bumpers are banging, everything works and I'm ecstatic to have my High Speed back again! It actually is working better than before. I had swapped out my flashers for leds(yes I cut the warming resistors), and they have been flickering, especially when pushing the flipper buttons. They are not flickering now. My green traffic light lamp at the ramp entrance was also acting wonky and it has also been steady since I put the new board in. Maybe I jiggled something, maybe it's the board, I am not an expert, you tell me. Honestly I can't say enough good things about the new board and Dumbass's outstanding service and communication. If you need new board I would highly recommend them.

20210730_194430 (resized).jpg20210730_194442 (resized).jpg20210730_194447 (resized).jpg4EIOCwkztiPhS (resized).png
#4771 70 days ago

On a side note, now that my game is working, I still need to fix the 2,000 rpm lamp on the playfield tachometer. Once in a while it works but it mostly doesn't. Should I be replacing the diode that I can't read or should I be looking to replace the lamp socket? Thought I saw someone else switched to individual sockets as they couldn't find the 5 gang sockets like the original.

#4781 69 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It's the socket, diodes either work or not. Try bending the outer metal in a bit so that it makes the bulb a tighter fit. Clean the inside with a brush if it's corroded.

Am embarrassed to say that the bulb burnt out-again!

#4782 69 days ago

Anyone one else have issues with the ball going up the San Diego(?) Freeway into the saucer? Minimum %50 of the time it skitters around the lip and doesn't drop in. Doesn't look like there's any adjustment anywhere other than bending the metal angle down a bit which I'm not sure would help.

#4785 68 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Perhaps the plastic dish on the bottom is worn? Maybe switch tab is bent and preventing the ball from dropping in. Debris in saucer?

Saucer is new. Switch doesn't look like it's too high. Just seems like ball heads enough towards the edge that it bounces off the upper right metal strip and continues right on out.

#4787 68 days ago
Quoted from killborn:

Try putting a piece of 1/4" foam on the piece of metal. 1"x 1/2"
[quoted image]

Hmmmm- Your wire guide between the saucer and the pop bumper looks a lot straighter than mine. Mine has a "swoop" towards the saucer. Wonder if straightening it will help. Foam may work too.

#4795 65 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Finally started my HS restoration. Backbox trial#1 with MDF was a no go, but learned what not to do for #2. Will drill pilot holes for the forstner bits and use a scrap board to prevent the tear outs. I will also use my router as well. Trial and error, gotta love it.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

No scrap backer board used on first attempt? What did you drill it on? Using hand drill I assume? Also try drilling partway through first side and then drilling through backside, lining up point of forstner bit with the penetration from the first side. Want to make a new board myself.

#4806 62 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Looks Great. When I wired my board, I did a little re-routing. Made it a little cleaner than factory and eliminated an extra brown/white wire jumper.
Here is a pic of the routing I did. There are 2 circuits Brown & White/Brown and Green & White/Green. Each circuit has 19 lights on it. I kept that the same. What I eliminated was the extra Brown & White/Brown jumper on the top left of the light board.
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What kind of stapler did you use to attach the wires? I tried looking online for a pneumatic stapler but all I find are crown staplers which I thought won't use staples that small.

#4824 60 days ago

For any of you that used the CPR playfields, is the mylar the same as the original? It looks it on the website. Personally I would rather see a solid mylar overlay but I'm new to the hobby so maybe I'm wrong in saying so. I know occasionally the ball gets stuck on the edge of the mylar by the flippers if it's moving slow enough but it shakes free easily enough.

#4827 60 days ago
Quoted from Tsunami:

I have the Gold and it did not have mylar.

Are you putting mylar on, clearcoating, or nothing?

#4833 57 days ago

Turn on game and I get adjust switch s1 upper left star. Does not show anything in switch test or switch edges. Seems to be registering during game play, will double check later. Tried closing gap a bit but made no difference. Any thoughts on what else to check?

#4835 57 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Have you cleaned the contracts with a new 100 dollar bill? Tested the diode? Have you checked the wire solder joints at the switch and the joints on the previous switch.

Will a 10 dollar bill work? Haven't seen a 100 in a while. Don't know how to test the diode. Solder joints on switch looked okay, will check backwards later.

#4841 57 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I haven't seen a brand new 10 dollar bill in my life.
Test diodes like this.
Make sure the the wires aren't hanging on by one strand.

So I guess I need a multi meter with diode test....

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#4844 57 days ago

Depot has a Klein for $55 with diode test. If I read the switch matrix correctly the switch in front of the left star rollover is the right kicker. Wire colors don't match but all seem properly attached. Cleaned the rollover switch and did not get the check switch message. A dirty switch that is not making contact at start up will set off the alarm? Weird.

#4854 51 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

IMHO a 5 SMD led is equal to a #89 bulb. A #1683 bulb is 4 times more powerful than a #89. I converted my F-14 to 12 volt DC so I could #89 bulbs. Then I used these bulbs from Comet in red, white and blue.
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How hard is it to convert the beacon to 12 volts? Tried the led from Comet that is supposed to work in the beacon but found it wasn't as bright as the incan.

#4858 49 days ago

Almost forgot- A few months ago I was having issues getting the ball to go all the way up the ramp on launch. While I had my play field out I removed the wooden side rail next to the ball trough. The ball would lean against the right side and not sit down in the slot in the play field which seemed like it would create a lot of drag. At least that's what they would say during the bobsled runs at the Olympics- don't touch the wall! I ran the side rail through my table saw and took 1/8" off of the inside edge. I ran the cut up until it's hidden under the "Don't drink and drive" plastic, where I stopped the cut rather than go all the way. Had to cut the spiral nails down when I re-installed the metal side piece. Ball has about 3/32" space between it and the right side of the trough now. Makes the ramp shots with ease now!

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#4861 49 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I remember this. Did you ever check the shooter spring? It should be the red one, extra strong. It seems that your PF has some extreme wear on the shooter lane that causes the ball to sit off center? Or the shooter rod is too short? Maybe somebody changed it at some point with the wrong type? I'm guessing this solved your problem though?

Did replace rod and spring with red one. Groove and rod are not centered in trough.

#4870 44 days ago

I am intrigued by Ingo's diagram showing a jumper on the board he designed for this mod to be able to select bulb or led use. Is that correct that using 2 10w resistors in parallel makes them function as the required 5w resistor for the leds to work?

#4878 39 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I think this is this is the diagram your referring to. Well there are a few issues with this, Mel said to use a 50 ohm resistor for the leds and a 10 ohm resistor for incandescent. Ingo's first diagram shows a 5 ohm resistor instead of a 50 ohm, might be a typo or something. When he made his second diagram he had 5 ohm stuck in his brain and made a circuit for that instead of 50 ohm. The reason I say this is because when you parallel two 10 ohm resistors together the combined ohms is 5 ohms. Now this circuit can be made to work correctly by doing two things, first is replace R-1 with a 50 ohm 5 watt resistor. Second would be to move the jumper connection to the other side of the resistors and connect the outputs of both resistors together and to the lamps. As for the jumper connections, R-2 connects to the bottom pin, R-1 connects to the top pin and the output from the bridge connects to the middle pin. Something like this.
[quoted image][quoted image]

First of all Mel had a bit of a typo. I wasn't sure if she meant 5 watt 5 ohm or 5 watt 50 ohm. She typed "5Ohm" and I wasn't sure what she meant so of course I bought the 5 ohm size. Need to pick up some 50 ohm resistors.

As far as Ingo's diagram, I am definitely a novice in the electronics world, but with the way he shows the jumper on pins 1 and 2 doesn't that parallel the 10 watt resistors to give a 5 watt output to the lamps?

Just read your post again and I think it finally sunk in, didn't understand what you were getting at the first time with the jumper relocation. I did get 2 of the 10watt/10 ohm resistors so maybe I can make it work with Ingo's diagram if his jumper set up is correct for 2 of the 10 watts.

#4879 39 days ago
Quoted from Teejay68:

Just finished testing the new under cabinet lighting circuit that I designed and programmed using an Arduino microcontroller. The ambient lighting is green and is dimmable in a steady state, or can be set to "breathe", then shuts off when the rotating beacon activates and the red and blue flash. All the patterns can be changed within the software and so far my favorite pattern is: the red and blue lights strobe for 5 sets of 5 quick strobes, then 5 sets of quick solid back and forth flashes then the cycle repeats. Adds a whole new level to the police chase. Here are a couple quick videos of the results, with the green lighting set to breathe.

I like it. Is it as bright as it seems in the video? I might want it toned down a bit, hard to say from the video. Are you planning on doing a how to, or selling units?

#4889 35 days ago

Rediscovered this lost childhood treasure of my son's. Kind of want to wire it into the stoplight circuit and hang it on the wall near the game. Just because.......!

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1 week later
#4911 22 days ago

Is the 1.4 mil default score for an extra ball supposed to drop down over time for some reason? With my old board I saw it go down to 1.2 mil that I remember. New board in game now and I just noticed it's now down to 1.3 mil for an extra ball.