Quoted from SkyKing2301:Thanks, can you show me the diode side so I can be sure there?
Band towards the red wires
(Topic ID: 69131)
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1 month later
Quoted from pinned_1104:Ball will not consistently rest making contact with shooter tip when ejected into shooter lane(50%). Ball will not make it up ramp when this happens. When ball is ejected and it makes contact with tip ramp is no problem. Angle of game is at 6.5, replaced barrel and shooter spring. What should I check next?
[quoted image]
The shooter lane switch needs to be adjusted down, the tension from that wire is keeping the ball from rolling down.
4 months later
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:Never mind it looks like the yellow wire that is spliced into the green wire is actually beige with a yellow stripe.
If I remember, I will take a pic of mine tonight for reference.
Quoted from gutz:If I remember, I will take a pic of mine tonight for reference.
The manual calls out, from left to right: white/yellow, white/green, white/violet, white/brown, EMPTY-key, Yellow, Green, Violet, Brown
Quoted from Nyraiderfan:Thanks GUTZ it looks like you have 2 yellows together towards the right of your connectors, if you look at my photo I have a partial yellow coming out of the connector going into a green which the loose yellow could’ve come off of their, I will check my Manuel when I get home to see if the 2 wires need to be together in that one spot to the right, thanks again.
The manual colors are off of what my machine has installed, but for the GI lighting it isn't critical. The only critical part is that the stripped wire colors are in the same order as the solid color wires left to right. You have brown -yellow-green-violet solid, then striped colors of brown-yellow-green-violet. As long as they are in the same order, they will be on the correct "loops" for GI strings. The color order can be different machine to machine, too.
It looks like your 2nd from the right should be your solid green (but was scabbed with a white/yellow wire). The loose solid yellow wire should probably be connected to the other solid yellow which is 2nd from the left.
If you look at the gi lights that aren't working under the playfield - are they on the yellow GI string? Keep in mind you have to find where the GI colored wires start on the string, and the sockets could be jumpered one to the other with any color of wire (typically solid yellow).
Quoted from Chosen_S:You sir have the best pinside name I have seen.... it reminds me of playing kicker (shaolins road) in the arcade... your character would win a stage and the word “GUTS” would appear at the top of the screen. I would chuckle and go on to the next level. Great memory
“GUTZ!”
I'm flattered but I've never played the game. Gutz is a nickname derived from my last name.
1 year later
Quoted from The_Great_Man:So I recently bought my High Speed game and I have a rather simple question I think. I was wondering if you were supposed to score points for hitting the angled slingshots - under the Turbo Boost and Oil Pressure - next to the flippers? Mine does not score any points and the rest of the game is in pretty good shape.[quoted image]
Iirc on high speed, the sling activation switches are above the playfield and the scoring switch is beneath the playfield. They get activated by the sling plunger moving. Lift the playfield and clean/ inspect/adjust those switches.
6 months later
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:Yeah, my Taxi came to me after a month of trying to be helpful with zero intent to actually buy it (she never did give me a straightforward answer about 'what' exactly wasn't working, or if she had keys, or anything really. It was a glorious dumpster fire sort of deal) and then one day she hit me up and said I could come buy it for $1300 if it truly was dead, but she wanted me to try fixing it there and if I could she wanted $1800 ($1300 was literally all I had and I told her as much, so I'd be driving 60 miles each way to fix it for free so someone else could buy it..I guess?). Weird all around.
At any rate, she didn't have the key when I showed up and I didn't have my drill so I bought it assuming the MPU was smoked. It was sheer luck that the 20 year old Duracells didn't blow up more than they did.
[quoted image]
Thats not the factory battery holder, which means the batteries likely leaked twice on that MPU during its life 
1 week later
Quoted from desertT1:My C30 was giving a reading of about 800mfd instead of 22mfd so I replaced it. The game booted and I was able to play a few games and was seeing that a lot of switches and even some coils were not firing. Took a break for a few days and went to power it on again today. It's not booting again. C30 is reading almost 900mfd, so I'm guessing it's dead again. I just replaced it though, so what would have killed it?
I wouldn't trust those readings or the meter you're using. Are you measuring in circuit or out of circuit? Out of circuit is usually best. Out of curiosity, what did the new 22uf cap measure (out of circuit) using that meter?
Quoted from desertT1:I always buy extra of these small components. Here is a fresh one. When I installed the one that’s in there before it died it measured pretty much the same value. I can put a new one in just as easily, but not sure I like that the one I just put in dies in 30 minutes of use.
For what it’s worth, with the black lead touching the metal plate in the head I get 2.8v on the pos side of the (likely) dead cap, and 0v on the neg side. This is with the game powered on but not booting.[quoted image]
Are the 800 readings with the bad cap installed on the board or removed from the board?
9 months later
Quoted from Hangernade:Board looks in decent shape, has minimal corrosion which I cleaned up.
That board is HEAVILY corroded. You may have knocked the chunks off, but there is much more damage hiding on that board. Any solder joints not shiny and smooth? Thats corrosion. Any traces have solder masked turned dark? Thats corrosion. Pretty much the entire area shown in the pic (and most likely areas out of frame) needs every component removed and the board sanded down to bare copper to see how many traces have corroded away. Every trace needs to be checked before you replace each component with new.
7 months later
Quoted from Lovef2k:Judging by the pf, if original, it looks like this game has a low play count or was well taken care of.
Looks like a hard top.
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