(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

7 years ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 4,934 posts
  • 376 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 hours ago by EStroh
  • Topic is favorited by 182 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20201129_142023 (resized).jpg
20200726_142349 (resized).jpg
IMG_20211011_170332 (resized).jpg
IMG_4852 (resized).JPG
20210822_142823 (resized).jpg
20210822_142741 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210926_171151 (resized).jpg
IMG_20210926_085212 (resized).jpg
P9260032 (resized).JPG
P9260034 (resized).JPG
P9260033 (resized).JPG
20210920_211104 (resized).jpg
HS 6 (resized).jpg
PF_R_Hideout_flipper (resized).JPG
PF_L_Hideout_Close (resized).JPG
PF_Full_prog2 (resized).JPG

Topic index (key posts)

3 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (4 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider eyeamred2u.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1580 5 years ago

Hi Group, just picked up a HS. I am in need of some pics. The coin door wiring is a mess, especially the 3-button service switch. I have broken wires and need pics to see where wires go. If anyone can help, I would appreciate it.



#1583 5 years ago

Thank you for that awesome pic of the 3-button service switch. now I can repair mine.


#1584 5 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Just in case someone wants to join the club... I'm bringing a decent one to the CLEPIN show for sale.

Nice game and price is spot on. If I had the room I would take on a second HS.

1 week later
#1590 5 years ago

I am in need of a pic of the coin door screws that attach to the coin door frame. Need size and head style info.



4 weeks later
#1608 5 years ago

I will take some pics, My game is apart for maintenance.

Quoted from ScottoKong:

Can someone please post some pics of HS Flipper Mech wiring.
Got band new Mechs from PBL and need a reference pics especially for the lane change switches and diodes!
Thanks heaps
[email protected]

1 week later
#1613 5 years ago

get in line, been searching for one for some time now.

Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Does anyone have a "Drive 55 and Stay Alive" plastic to sell. I need to replace a broken one.

2 months later
#1685 4 years ago

Hi Group,
I need a quality scan of the High Speed CPU Board Layout and parts listing page from the manual. The one I have is very bad quality. Thank you.


#1688 4 years ago

First attempt at Traffic Light Mod. 2 of the 4 tabs broke off during printing. I did not create this file, was given to me my a member on this site.

20170107_130425 (resized).jpg

20170107_130439 (resized).jpg

20170107_130447 (resized).jpg

20170107_125909 (resized).jpg

20170107_130432 (resized).jpg

#1691 4 years ago
Quoted from HS1STPIN:

That looks really good. Please let us know if you get it hooked up..fitted and working. I will buy one!

I am making another one, will post more pics of the completed assembly once finished. More details to follow.


1 week later
#1699 4 years ago
Quoted from Langless28:

Glad you are using it! It looks like the thin tabs are parallel with the printing direction. You can try rotating it 90 degrees relative to the print direction which might make the thin tab stronger. Or try reinforcing it with epoxy on the inside. Mine held up good. I'll have to get back to you with what print technology I use though.
Also the posts are meant to be crossed drilled for metals rods that connect to the cabinet. This would look like if this were mounted to a wall or pole if that makes sense.
I can try making that area stronger if you need also and give you another file.

I did rotate the model 90 degrees, just have not had time to print one yet. Trial and Error.

1 year later
#2309 2 years ago

Corrosion on pads, cold/cracked solder joint. Time to relocate batteries.

1 month later
#2439 2 years ago
Quoted from MrNeon:

Newbie here! Lots of great info to read. Took 5 years to get my HS but finally picked one up and let another slip out if my hands.
Been cleaning and working on her but would really like to find a member that has the 3d print file for the traffic light cover. I read a few threads but they were 4 years old and didn't seem to have any source. Is anyone making these?


#2445 2 years ago
Quoted from PapalJim:

My first pinball machine so taking repairs slowly. Looking to replace the rollover wireforms because the ones I have are gross. Anybody know what they are actually called or if they have a part number?
This seems to be pretty close:

Bend your own. Buy some piano wire from Pinrestore and u r good to go

#2453 2 years ago
Quoted from mkecasey:

Can anybody speak on the quality of these?
ebay.com link » Williams High Speed Pinball Machine Next Gen Translite Backglass

I have one in my game, looks great. If you need original, then go for it from CPR, their products are amazing as well.

3 months later
#2542 2 years ago

Awesome and Welcome!

8 months later
#3045 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.
TIA[quoted image]

Call TNT Amusements, see if they have any.

#3047 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Ok, Thanks, I will do that.

I am.shocked that the vendors don't have this part. If all else, it can be made. I have my high speed torn down, I would be happy to provide measurements.

1 month later
#3242 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Hey Monk,
Thanks for the link. That is the connector I am searching for. I must have overlooked it when searching before. It does look like the Male side is not available, still looking through the pages of connectors.
This forum is such a wealth of information. I was hoping it would lead to finding the parts I was looking for.
Your link led me to find the 24 pin connector at Marco as well both Male and female! I find it so difficult to find parts unless you have a part number. They are not cheap but it is exactly what I am looking for. [quoted image]

Try Actionpinball.com they are another great vendor

2 months later
#3557 1 year ago
Quoted from rickyrooroo:

I was thinking about putting in NVRAM in my HS. Is there a recommended brand that is the best? Also, What exactly needs done? Just take out U25, then put the 24 pin in, and then the new NVRAM?
thanks for the help.

Visit Lockewhenlit, he explains all the different versions and his universal fit NVRAM

#3572 1 year ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Thanks this playfield is not even close to salvageable. Hardtop to the rescue. I try not to order from Marco's as they hate us Canadians and charge us 10x what you pay in shipping. Marco's and Planetary Pinball basically try their best not to deal with the hassles associated with us Canadian customers unfortunately
(But we send you all of our best hockey players. Not cool guys lol)

Buy a new playfield from classic playfied instead of that hardtop

#3580 1 year ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Double the price
Double the work
Double the necessary skill set
Idk guys, what's the compelling argument? Hardtops look stellar in person. I've seen a Flash Gordon done and my friend is mid Firepower.

Hardtop=Strip top and bottom, sand, sand, correct inserts, clearcoat, hope you don't mess up.

New playfield is way easier. Have done 30+, hardtop is a last resort and even then I would pass.

#3599 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Great_Man:

So I like the colored walls but when I put the lights on there are a lot of shadows. That probably explains why the interior walls are all black.
[quoted image]


high-speed-pinball-sideblades-inside-decals-sideboard-art-pin-blades-700x447 (resized).jpg
#3621 1 year ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Mini side project.
What do you guys think? It's a little chunky looking this way but I think it's pretty sharp still. I could also cut the box to be shallower and put some flat head LEDs in there instead of the massive incandescent bulb in there right now.
[quoted image]

Get the .stl file and print the stop light mod, much better looking

#3629 1 year ago
Quoted from KnockerPTSD:

Ran to my local pinball supply shop. Luckily she knew I needed an 8. Yours is correct. Game is all good now. Who knows how long ago some tech was on route with no fuses and threw this travesty in there. The woman at my shop said she has seen this before. Quite oftern after the fire has already happened.

I have had games with foil, wire soldered across blown fuses, if conducts it goes in and games plays. Sad, but this is what happened and sadly still happens by bad OPs.

4 weeks later
#3714 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Been playing my recently fully restored High Speed. Several minor adjustments I have had to make, but nothing major.
However I have had 1 issue that I have not been able to resolve until today.
The Left outline kickback was launching balls into the air hitting the wire ball cage about 65% of the time. I thought it was the solenoid plunger alignment so I have been trying to make minor adjustments over the last couple weeks. Nothing I did fixed the problem.

Today I finally had enough. This needed to be fixed!
After fiddling with the solenoid some more I ran the ball up the outline by hand and noticed the playfield cutout for the wire switch would raise the ball just ever so slightly as I moved it up the outlane. This has to be it.

The ball sometimes lines up with the cutout and then catches the slight rise and launches ever so slightly as it travels back up the outline. I went in with 600 grit sandpaper and sanded down the rise.
[quoted image]
BINGO! That fixed it. Such a simple fix but so hard to detect.
Thought I would post this here to help anyone else that may have this problem or encounter it after a Playfield restore. This was a CPR playfield.

I would have lowered the switch arm first before sanding and from the video it appears the plunger hits the ball too low. I would bend the bracket to raise the coil angle

#3716 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Oh Believe me, I Thought it was plunger alignment as well. I adjusted the alignment up and down, side to side and the problem never went away. If you watch closely the ball launches at the end of the playfield switch cutout not before.
After all my changes to the alignment it never got better. I thought about moving the switch and changing the timing on when the ball was hit.
The strange part was the ball was only launching in the air about 65% of the time. It was not happening every time. That is what lead me to believe it was not the alignment. I discovered this was because if the ball went back up the lane and did not line up with the playfield switch cutout it would not launch into the air since it would miss the bump at the end of the cutout.
By slightly sanding the end of the playfield cutout to create a more gradual rise so the ball no longer jumps up.
This is why I posted this unusual issue. It took me a while to diagnose and thought others would benefit from knowing about this.
If there was not a Kickback in this lane this bump would not be an issue since the ball would never be shot back hitting the cutout bump.
It was not the playfield. It was from the clear coat buildup around the cutout. When you spray clear on a playfield it tends to "build" and gather around openings. This is what happened here. As soon as that "extra" clear coat was removed, so was the ball launch problem.
After sanding the bump just ever so slightly I have not had one air ball. The problem was the clear coat bump.

Wow, I shocked that the clearcoat made that much of a difference. I could see the wireform switch being too high and it launching the ball. This is just my opinion on what I see in the video, the plunger is striking the ball at a downward angle causing that ball to launch into to the slot. Now you have the better angles and I hope you solved it and I don't run into this same issue on my restoration.

#3718 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

The Switch wire does not have enough resistance to launch the ball. The ball is just too heavy to be affected by the wire. Looking close at the slow motion the ball does not even get past the wire. As soon as the wire it presses the kickback solenoid fires.
Yea, this issue stumped me for a while. I messed with the solenoid bracket a bunch and it never got better. It was very frustrating. I inserted spacers below the bracket, checked and rechecked the alignment, you name it. Nothing changed. 65% airballs.
I then thought what changed to make this start doing this? The playfield is the only thing that is new. Every other part is the same. I moved the ball by hand up the lane and noticed quite a lift in the ball as it passed over the end of the playfield switch cutout. I looked closer and sure enough there was clear coat buildup. I checked the old play field and it did not do this. That is when I decided to lightly sand down the clear coat.
Like I said, it would not be a problem if there was no kickback here.
I find it hard to imagine I am the first to have this issue. Next time I do a restore with a kickback this will get extra attention from me before assembly.

Solid find on your end in troubleshooting for a solution. I am sure I will have the same issue, I never get lucky on restorations.

#3720 1 year ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Take a pinball and roll it up the playfield switch cutout and if it rises abruptly from the clear coat you may run into the same issue.
Much easier to take care of it before assembly.

I will do that soon as I begin prepping for teardown and while this is still fresh in my mind. I will also take video of my findings.

2 weeks later
#3736 1 year ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Maybe I'm alone on this... but is anyone else not a fan of the BG? Specifically the Police?

Love the BG, especially the police

3 months later
#3938 11 months ago

I have a really nice custom translite for High Speed, never used. All you need is the glass. PM for for details.


3 weeks later
#4016 11 months ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Had a strange issue pop up out of nowhere. The knocker works fine in test mode but not in game play. It worked correctly a couple of days ago but now it doesn't. I didn't do any work on the machine lately. Any ideas?

Is the knocker on a fuse? Coil dead? Coil sleeve worn? Transistor dead?

#4018 11 months ago
Quoted from Bellagio:

Coil and sleeve are new. I just watched it operate during test mode and it worked smoothly. If the fuse was blown or the transistor was bad I would think that it wouldn’t work at all? Everything else in the game is 100%.
This one has me stumped. I know it doesn’t affect gameplay but it’s just cool and should work.

Failing components act weird, all I am going to say.

8 months later
#4748 80 days ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

Added a coupon of Oklahoma Highway branded patrol cars for a little local flavor. Helps fill in a couple of dead areas on the play field.
Now it has me considering altering all the highway stickers to local highways….
[quoted image][quoted image]

If you edit the stickers, send me a PM, I would pay you for your time to make me stickers for my area CLE, Ohio


1 week later
#4794 66 days ago

Finally started my HS restoration. Backbox trial#1 with MDF was a no go, but learned what not to do for #2. Will drill pilot holes for the forstner bits and use a scrap board to prevent the tear outs. I will also use my router as well. Trial and error, gotta love it.
20210821_175503 (resized).jpg

20210821_175519 (resized).jpg
#4796 66 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

No scrap backer board used on first attempt? What did you drill it on? Using hand drill I assume? Also try drilling partway through first side and then drilling through backside, lining up point of forstner bit with the penetration from the first side. Want to make a new board myself.

No, drilled it above some scrap wood stock. Second attempt I am going to use solid stock as base plate to hopefully prevent the tear outs. Going to practice on a some scrap first. I had the board clamped solid, so there was no flexing. I am not a fan of MDF, but no excuses here, just have to get it right.

#4799 66 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

YES, definitely need a back board to prevent the tear-thru! Go very slow as well when you get close to the end of the hole.

Thanks for the advice. I know the next one will be perfect

#4800 65 days ago
Quoted from eyeamred2u:

Thanks for the advice. I know the next one will be perfect

Trial #2 came out 99% better. A tip for anyone doing this. Clean out your drill bits between holes. I found out thru practice, this may cause tear out as well. I was also lifting the drill up and down to remove the excess when drilling. Hope this helps the next person. It was a fun project. Big thanks to #Pin-Pilot for sending me the spare backboard to use as a template. I am gonna hang onto it until the next person needs it.

HS Trial 2 (resized).jpgHS Trial 2.1 (resized).jpg
#4802 65 days ago
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:

Looks Great. When I wired my board, I did a little re-routing. Made it a little cleaner than factory and eliminated an extra brown/white wire jumper.
Here is a pic of the routing I did. There are 2 circuits Brown & White/Brown and Green & White/Green. Each circuit has 19 lights on it. I kept that the same. What I eliminated was the extra Brown & White/Brown jumper on the top left of the light board.
[quoted image]

Perfect, I am going to use this layout.

#4808 62 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

What kind of stapler did you use to attach the wires? I tried looking online for a pneumatic stapler but all I find are crown staplers which I thought won't use staples that small.

Here is what I use, great Stapler.

Screenshot_20210825-114133_Amazon Shopping (resized).jpg
#4811 62 days ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

I love my HS... I will likely keep it a very loooong time.
The playfield is rough.
I know some prefer the CPR swap and other say to do a Hardtop.
I'm leaning towards a Hardtop for durability and longevity... plus a savings of $500+...
What is the thoughts of everyone. I know they both will probably require a ton of work that I will be on here getting advice from the smart kids in class.

New Playfield, if its available grab one. If you read the Hardtop forum, takes some prep wor to even install it. Still have to tear off topside and if you get overzealous, the bottom. I waited for the CPR playfield, and I am glad I did. Is the Hardtop nice, absolutely. If price is a factor, then only you know the route to take. Good luck in whatever choice you make.

#4828 61 days ago
Quoted from Hangernade:

Are you putting mylar on, clearcoating, or nothing?

I have a Gold CPR HS Playfield and had it clearcoated by a fellow pinsider.

1 week later
#4862 50 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Almost done my swap. This is number 10 for me and so far the most complicated. Just waiting for Cliffy flipper return guides that I just found out about. Notice far right spinner is black. These are NOS, IDK where the black came from but I installed it anyway.
Thanks to Freeplay40 for the red ramp option.
Thanks to @Robtune for the traffic light mod.
Thanks to Comet for the non-ghosting LED option.
Thanks for PBR for having parts for the ramp diverter and other needed parts.
Thanks to PBL for the Britecaps and other parts needed.
Thanks to Mark Klein for selling the NOS pf and plastics to me.
Thanks to annex (Andrew Parent) for beautiful clear coat job.
Thanks to PinPilot for sharing his upper flasher mod.
And thanks to everyone else on this thread for answering my questions.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice job, Do you have a parts list of what you replaced? Always good to know what you changed? Who did your rails? I like that color choice.


#4864 49 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The rails were done by a local shop. I have an extra set in the same color on the Market Place.
I basically rebuilt all of the mechanicals except the saucer eject. I did put a new plunger and coil sleeve though.
Pops totally rebuilt with all new parts.
Flippers all rebuilt. Original plates were good.
New hideout kicker arm assemblies and pivots. New micros on the top side of pf for the hideouts.
New kicker arm assemblies and pivot on slings. New sling switches.
New switches for the star rollover buttons.
Overhaul on the ball diverter, new shaft assemblies, coil stop, plunger, sleeve, springs, cranks and bushings. Had the main assembly nickel plated.
Installed new faces on the standup targets, new switch pads behind them.
NOS plastics
NOS spinners
reused red post after running through dishwasher.
Tumbled hardware and metal posts.
Re-grained the ball guides.
All new flasher lamp sockets.
New GI sockets.
Comet LED's.
New outhole kicker assembly.
replaced kickback relay
Replaced 100 uF caps for snubber relays.
Cleaned all feature lamp sockets with brass wire attachment on Dremel.
Cleaned all other switch contacts with a dollar bill.
I did not wash the harness in fear of getting the snubber relays wet or damaging all the diodes throughout the playfield. It wasn't that dirty to begin with.
I added 3 pin connectors to the ball feed and kickback coils for easy change out if ever needed.
Have a repro apron (not pictured) that I bought 10 years ago. I don't remember who made them, maybe Merf?

Thank you so much, gonna check out those rails.

2 weeks later
#4899 32 days ago
Quoted from Greenfun13:

Well, I cleaned the contacts and got them nice and shiny using some crisp 50's I had but I'm still getting the "adjust right spinner" error. Guessing it is a bad switch then?

Test the switch and rule it out.

Diode would be the long shot unless a voltage spike blew it.

#4904 30 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Part needed. While prepping the PF for hardtop, I broke this micro switch actuator arm. It's not removable so I need the mounting plate as well. Either side will work, bot the same. Thanks in advance!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That switch will be easy, just reference it in the manual or from the Williams part catalog online.

#4906 29 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Part needed. While prepping the PF for hardtop, I broke this micro switch actuator arm. It's not removable so I need the mounting plate as well. Either side will work, bot the same. Thanks in advance!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

A-11043 Ball Deflector & Rollover Wire Assy

Page 347 of Williams Blue parts manual

#4908 29 days ago
Quoted from PinballAir:

You could easily remake that arm with the PBR piano wire sample kit.

I agree. Buy a piece of hard maple. Pound 2 nails into it and start bending. How I do all my wire bending. I have my HS torn down right now and I have Piano Wire. I might just recreate this. Give me a week and see what I come up with.


1 week later
#4913 22 days ago

FYI to the group: I have a original backboard that can be used to make a new one if your old one is damaged in any way. I also will make a new one for you as well.

PinPilot was nice enough to share his original with me so I could make a new one and I want to pay it forward, so just putting the information out there. I will be storing this until a fellow pinsider needs it.


20210822_142741 (resized).jpg20210822_142823 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider eyeamred2u.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside