4 Aces
Williams, 1970
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
Comet
Williams, 1985
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider estroh.
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Quoted from Gorgar666:New to the Club. As you can see some mounded the Volume knob to the front. Can someone please post a picture of the correct place it goes? I’m going to plug the hole with plastic covers. Thanks.
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IMG_6274 (resized).jpgQuoted from Gorgar666:Let’s see your High Speed Key Fob. I can’t find one for sale...
If you make your own you can get them all to match. 
Keys (resized).jpgQuoted from Freeplay40:This is where I bought some years ago. I used the one on the top of the page and then printed photos like the flyers from the Internet Pinball Database.
https://www.picturasupply.com/photo-novelties-catalog/clear-plastic-snap-in-photo-key-chains.html
Yep, I bought a bag of those as well when I started collecting pins! When I get a new pin I find a good "representation" of the title that I then photoshop and install into the key "tag". When I sell a pin I keep it's tag as a memento. I said I'd stop buying pins when the bag of tags was empty.
I'm about to buy a new bag.
Quoted from Hangernade:Another situation popped up. When I bought my HS it was missing the left hand top flasher bulb. Was kind of a minor issue at the time. Figured I would eventually put a bulb in. In the history of this machine some of the bulbs were replaced with leds, and I suspect some are not non-ghosting. I'm looking to get some leds soon to replace more bulbs.
Anyway, today I stole a flasher bulb from my backbox to try out the top flashers. I don't even know what they are tied to to make them flash. I know you need flasher bulbs in pairs for them to work. So I played a couple games and no flashing. I took a second bulb from the backbox to replace the one on the right. Right hand bulb looked new and is an 89. Backbox bulbs are 63s.
Played a few more games and still no flashing. Put game in test mode and they are not lighting. This game spent some of it's former life in a humid/moist environment but the lamp sockets look okay on the outside. Will have to remove them to get a clear look inside to see if contacts look bad. Wire connections at sockets seem okay, going to try and trace wiring tomorrow to see if I have any bad connections underneath.
Other than that, does anyone have any input as to anything else I can look for or check?
I've seen this on two HS machines. On both there was a break at the ceramic resistor on the board that powers the flashers.
Quoted from desertT1:Has there ever been an alternate backglass/translite for High Speed?
You could always make your own
I made a couple for HS2. Not for everyone, but I like the variety.
My HS is still stock though...
Getaway 10 small (resized).jpgyellow close w spotlight small (resized).jpgQuoted from jeffreymabq:I neglected to mention that, when I run the coil test, nothing happens on any of the coils. It clearly seems fuse related, but none of them appear to be burnt out.
You can't tell if a fuse is burnt by looking at it. If you don't have the means to test each one with a meter out of the game, try rotating fuses F103, F04 and F105. Those are your solenoid fuses and they are all 3A slow blow. If the problem persists, than either ALL your fuses have blown (doubtful) or you have another issue.
Added over 2 years ago:ha ha ha... strike that. I have a HS and HS2 and got confused as to which forum I was on!
For HS, the solenoid fuses are F2 and F4. You can't switch them though, even though they are both 2.5 amp. F4 is a slow blow and F2 is not. Best to take those out and test them with a meter.
Quoted from jdzwir123:When checking the cables I pushed on U21 and for a brief second I heard the engine revving, it only did that once though. I did notice prior to this problem happening that it sounded like something in the sound was scratchy and a little distorted at times.
Is your sound card screwed down tight to the backboard? That's actually a ground connection and a loose board will cause sound issues.
Quoted from Gtbuff:Last resort.. I may be out of the club if I can't figure this out.
Resets every time going into multi-ball. checked power, switches, started shotgun replacing parts and still the same.
Might even help if i could figure out the logic of how multi-ball works.
Also looking for someone in my area (Macomb/Michigan) with a HS that might be willing to test in another machine.
Try to isolate the problem. Maybe prevent the ball from making it to the right popper, then the left one... keep the switches from activating. Or start a game and start hitting switches with you fingers. Freeplay40 may be onto something. It could be a switch or bad diode somewhere.
Quoted from vidguy:Well I joined the club today. This is the first pin I’ve bought, after having “inherited” Cue Ball Wizard as a hand me down from my dad. HS is in good shape overall, maybe a 6 of 10 on the cabinet and a 7 on the play field. Beacon and displays work too. There are some plastics to replace and ugly GI but those are easy fixes.
The major issue I have is no response from the kickback. This game is TOUGH without the kickback!
Edit: Audit shows the kickback has registered 16 times since I reset today. I’m guessing maybe the solenoid relay?
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Nice pickup. HS was my first purchase as well, after inheriting my Dad's Haunted House.
In the settings you can adjust weather the kickback is always on, vs the factory setting (qualified by target hits). If you haven't already, download the manual... it will help.
Have Fun!
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Santa Clarita, CA