Anyone have the yellow and red paint codes for a stencil job?
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Good info, thanks.
Quoted from HighSpeed1:This may be too old to help, but maybe a starting place.
I had been down this road 4 years back, but decided to do nothing because my cabinet was good enough for me and I really didn't need to re do it.
Behr has long since changed their base tint formulas and now their base paint formulas, so you might not find a close match anymore as a current color sample card will most likely not match these old ones. The Behr samples are a 99.8% match to my original cab colors. I took these cards into a Sherwin Williams auto finishes branch to have them matched, but never purchased the colors, so I never got the Sherwin formula.IMG_3097A.jpg 43 KB
Quoted from lordloss:I'd imagine the first wave of preorder emails will be sent out soon. The CPR site says that they were supposed to be back before new years, so here's hoping we get an update!
Not soon enough!
Quoted from MrSanRamon:OK...I finally got it.
Best plan then is to modify a system 9 mpu into a base 11 or buy a new or rebuilt one.
Robert
Hopefully these guys will finish their work.
http://www.pinballpcb.com/System9-11cMainBoard.html
Their other boards are awesome, I bought their Sys11 PS and love the pento knob for checking voltages by hand. Full documentation is included
http://www.pinballpcb.com/Sys7-11bPowerSupply.htm
Quoted from MustangPaul:I repainted the front of my HS and it turned out like crap. They gave me the wrong order in which to apply them (but I got it right), they fit like crap, they have to fit EXACTLY on top of each other which is almost impossible to do and the white which is the last had to go down had to be cut up into 4 pieces so the registration would fit sideways. I can't imagine trying to do the long sides.
Ebay or Twisted Pins ?
Quoted from MustangPaul:Yhanks for that. Pressed the SW1 switch and still no sound.
Make sure you have all 4 cables seated to the sound board, 2 on the left (speaker wire set is connected to the lower one) and 2 on the bottom (power and ribbon cable). Check the screws on the board, make sure they have some good bite for grounding (6 screws). Give the ROM a visual inspection (do not take it out of the socket) make sure the legs are not sticking out or crumpled, give it a firm push.
If you still have no sound, check both speakers and the sound pento to make sure all wires are attached.
Do you get any noise on boot?
Quoted from HighSpeed1:In Case anyone is still looking for these, they look very close to original. Not my listing..
ebay.com link
The black strips on the outer ring do not seems to have depth. Hot stamped....hmmmm?
Quoted from popeboy:Has anyone seen a low-profile replacement or even have an idea on what I could wire in?
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hs2-getaway-blue-led-police-flasher-mod-4-sale
Quoted from popeboy:That looks cool, but he said it blew up when he wired it to a High Speed.
More of an idea. I would go with a step down converter and some 12V LED's
Quoted from Freeplay40:Mine is still sitting on my kitchen counter patiently awaiting the clear ramp.
1) You have two kitchens
2) Bachelor/Divorced
3) Most patient wife ever
Quoted from lordloss:My GI was only working on the right side, of the PF. Put the it back in the cab for testing and now all GI is. gone. FML
Start with the basics, take the fuse out and test it with a DMM. Start working up chain after that
Quoted from Speeddemon:Picking up my HS on Saturday. Any sources for stand up targets? I have many broken targets. Also might need a new traffic light unless I can repair it.
You can go cheaper and buy just the front, all colours listed below. Shipping is decent and the CDN to EUR is about the same as USD conversion.
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/targets-target-replacements-c-9_175_239.html?language=english
Got a GI problem I cannot track down.
GI lights powered by the purple - white/purple wires are not coming on and if I let the game run for a couple of minutes, the fuse will pop.
I have tried using my DMM and continuity mode, touching every metal part without success. Re-soldering every contact point.
Any ideas or tricks for tacking down the issue?
Quoted from rwarren28806:The GI runs on 4 legs.
Isn't that the same as the 4 wire pairs?
Almost there, removed 20 or so bulbs and had 18 up and running...put in 19 and bye bye lights. Not sure if I grounded it due to location or a bad bulb. Will try later after hockey.
Correct and I have 18.
AC Amps is 0.1 with no bulbs. Ran out of time for more testing, will try tmo.
Quoted from eh97ac:Correct and I have 18.
AC Amps is 0.1 with no bulbs. Ran out of time for more testing, will try tmo.
Ends up it was a bad socket, same socket that I mentioned before.
Quoted from rwarren28806:How do you know the difference? What are the markings?
Sticker on the rom chip.
Quoted from V_piscopo:Has anybody bought and installed the padded trafic lights for HS being sold on eBay? How are they? Can I get a realistic pic of them on your PF so I can see how bright they really are?
Got a link?
Take lots of pics for the ramp removal, could be 1 pic per screw/part. The rings at the back are 5" for reference
Quoted from HS1STPIN:Awesome Thanks FREEPLAY40.
Can anyone please tell me how to separate the backbox from the main base? I can't get the pinball into my room upstairs.
I have looked and can't seem to figure it out. I also see a key/lock on top next to the red flasher. What is that for?
Thanks for the quick responses.
HS1STPIN
**************Do not cut any wires************
Take off the backglass
Open lamp panel
Remove the groundbraid
Make note of the wire connectors for each PCB
Remove connectors
2 or 4 bolts secure the head the body
Close the panel and fold the head
On the bottom of the head, find the hinge and unscrew
Quoted from larrwill:I have an NOS Williams High Speed playfield, (NOT a reproduction), for sale if anyone is interested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/52725
What the story with the banana inserts, proto type, fix....etc?
Quoted from larrwill:Honestly, I have no idea what your question means. The playfield is stamped with a date from 1989 so definitely not a prototype. I bought this about 20 years ago to do a playfield swap that I never got around to.
No ill will intended. The large red inserts are typically blue and was wondering if you had a back story on them. I always though 1 red and 1 blue insert would have been better for the game.
Quoted from mkecasey:Any leads on replacement beacon/toppers? I know several years ago there were some threads discussing some options. Most of the part suppliers online appear to be out. I'm okay with using something besides a beacon if needed.
The mech/motor or the actual red dome?
Quoted from volkdrive:On the hunt for High Speed tournament ROM, anyone have a source?
Never heard of it. Who made it?
The right side kickout relay under the PF is clicking away right after boot up.
1) What is that relay, the markings on mine are gone? DPDT 24v?
2) What does the clicking signify?
Thanks
For the relay is that simply a different package, it looks like the 50v relay for the kickback?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/bch-0332209150
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