I just got one last weekend. It's a project for sure, but I want to make sure it's running well and play it before it gets restored. With the ROMs I have, will there be anything major missing or wrong?

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Sand and overlay. I already have the overlay and will practice that method soon on my 69 Joust that is finished aside from the PF overlay/clear and cabinet decals.

All of the rubbers will have to be replaced. I rolled the ball around, hit a yellow post and half of it chunked off. :p

Are there cabinet decals for HS? I'm just seeing stencils and I'm not sure which way I want to go with this. Just looking for a very nice player restore, not a CQ one because I intend to play this a lot.

Checked as much as I know to do on my newest project, so it was time to put everything together and see what happens. Here's the list:

Cabinet/playfield... Already knew that part
The transistor that I replaced that was split into 3 pieces had an overheating coil, but it wasn't locked on. This is mystery priority #1.
Plunger spring is not proper, and weak.
Music, sound FX work, but zero voice callouts. Lots of buzz. Noticable at all times, but in attract mode, buzz is synced with insert lighting moving around.
Upper ramp diverters didn't divert when light was red.

The thing about that transistor is the coil was getting hot, but never locked on. I wiggled the transistor until it broke off and then tested it (since I assumed it was dead) and it was giving .5xx V, so not dead after all. Hovered over the coil that was very hot after 2 games earlier today, room temp without the transistor. This is a new one for me, any guesses?

Got my rebuild kits in and did all 3 flippers last night. Would have gone a lot faster if coil sleeves were better toleranced. Some are smooth as silk coming out and others get to be ripped apart with pliers. I can say that having rev 1 and 2 roms (pictured in here somewhere) makes this game buggy as all getup. Multiball is possible, but it is very goofy trying to get it to admit that I can try to getaway. I had the red lights lit for a while and was looping the ramp a few times in a row, nothing. Goes into the kickback lane, boom, does the mulitball queue when it sends the ball back.

Oh, and the voice callouts that I thought weren't there, are there. Took a really long game to get one to happen, but I think it's just the old code. Will have some new ROMs coming at some point, but I want to record this game with the current ROMS to show the difference when I get the new ones.

This game is so fun.

I was getting some terrible speaker buzz. When I got my game, the CPU was in the cab and I only had 2 bolts to hold it up in the head. The buzz was so bad that it was the same level as the actual sounds. I got the rest of the hardware to bolt the board in and the buzz seems to be 100% gone. Now, if nothing is happening, there is what sounds like a car idling that you can hear during lulls (as opposed to lolz) in the music. Even if it's not supposed to be like that, I'm super happy with the way things sound.

There is a relay that activates the flippers. Sounds like yours is either locked shut, or is grounded so it's always activated.

How much for the whole thing? I will need all of them for my restoration.

Get it and then post some pictures here. I would suggest cleaning and waxing the playfield. That will get the dirt off and keep it reasonably protected so you can play the heck out of it. Check the batteries for leaks and just replace them anyway. If there is acid damage, we can help deal with that.

Outside of that, it might be a matter of if you notice things (switches/coils) not working. Everything can be fixed, but the main board is hard to find, so be nice to it and handle it only if you need to.

Can you post a video? And the way I play it is if it comes out of the left or right side kickout, put the flipper up and let it run into it and it will come to rest.

Is the wire form tight? Sounds like it's rattling a little and so you are getting random feeds from it.

My speaker grill was coming off when I got mine. I pulled it the rest of the way off, took off the fabric, and have it sitting in the sun under a sheet of glass to try and flatten it out a little. Do I have any options for what fabric to put on there? Anyone seen anything cool that I might look into for mine?

Also, One of my pops was blowing a transistor. I put a new one in and it killed that too. Any suggestions as to what to inspect? I don't think the coil was getting locked on, but it was hot, so who knows. I think the game played a little while before I noticed the smell.

That speaker section looks pretty sweet.

Have not checked the coil diode yet, but I have the board in hand. Q77 is what is toast, and Q76 is the predriver according to the manual. Q76 checks out ok compared to the transistors next to it. Will check the coil diode in a bit and see what that is like. When I could smell stuff it was like a hairdryer cooking dust, so I think it was a very dusty coil heating up dust, and not melting plastic, but I will check the coil as well.

The coil is toast for sure. The 2 good ones measure 3.9ohms and the bad one is .4ohms.

While under there I found a resistor pack (the cement resistors) with the small one missing and the big one with one lead broken off. Orange wire coming in and what looks like either black and blue or black and purple feeding out. Trying to find that one in the schematic now.

EDIT: Found it. Schematics look like they say Q85, special solenoid 6, but the solenoid chart/table says special #6 is Q79. Either way, looks like it's the upper playfield flashers. Will fix that too.

Last thing I remember from before I tore it apart is the ramp divert switches would pretty much never work. Was hoping that and my snapped leads would match up, but switches don't need resistors...

That PF looks great!

Last time I asked (a while ago) they said it was on the list, but not in the next 5 to be done. Hopefully it’s moving up and almost time. I’m dying to get my HS put back together with a hardtop. My play field has been stripped for a few months at this point.

When I bring a game home (new to me or just taking a break from the route) with a few things to work on it almost never fails to have something come up the first week or two after it goes back out. I've gone through the game, play tested as I repair and something always waits until it's out of the shop to rise to the surface.

Hopefully you don't have the same experience.

I can’t decide if I want to wait out the Hardtop. I took everything off the topside and was going to go the overlay route when I discovered the Hardtop. Now I’m thinking I want to put everything back together and put the game on route so it can be played as the Hardtop is not coming as quick as I’d hoped.

2-3 months is a very encouraging timeline. I was going to start putting mine back together since this seemed to be a very late 2018 release. Now I'll have to hold off to save myself a duplicate effort. I'm a day 1 buyer for this game.

Pretty sure they are 8-32 and are 1/2" in length.

Everyone is having fun playing High Speed and I'm just sitting here waiting for the Hardtop announcement.

Mostly said in jest, but I would appreciate an updated ETA. Jonesing really hard since the teaser.

I guess I didn’t know about this. At this point I think I want a Hardtop still as it’s more appropriate for my game. If I got a $1k playfield that would be more than I paid for the game and would probably force me to make a new cab, stencil it, and replace everything visible with new parts. Not what I want to do on a game going on route.

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My second of two High Speeds is on location. The first one has a terrible playfield that will need a hardtop before it goes out as well. The second one came to me a few weeks ago with the topside mostly torn apart. I was delighted to find that nothing was missing once I was out of parts to put back on.

The High Speed that I recently put on route is locking up at least 10-20% of the games that get played on it. I played quite a lot before it went out and never locked up on me. The sounds are quite interesting though. Everything is very drawing out.
The first thing I found online was that a coil diode was likely bad, but wouldn’t that lock it up every game that it is fired? We saw no pattern and I went into coil test mode and had them cycle through several times without it locking up.

Also, came in today and it wouldn’t take a coin. Clicked on a credit, hit start, and music but no kick out. I’m wondering if it froze with a coil on and blew the coil fuse. Didn’t have time to check today.

I did not, but I would bet the power supply caps are original. I’ll order a kit and can swap parts by the time it gets here.

Can you manually actuate it and see if anything is off? It all looks attached from the picture.

Are people really looping it over and over like the ST warp ramp? I was actually surprised recently when I found that the right saucer will award a light as well. It's nice to know that there are settings for this in case something becomes too dominant in events that I run, but the game only recently went out, and promptly went down in spite of a lot of play testing at home. Seems to always happen though. After a few weeks of testing/repairs it should be solid.

I rebuilt the high voltage section because the game was freezing. Now it is booting fine at times and other times is goofy. When it boots fine it will start with zero credits, cool. If I put in a coin it will go to the return slot. More on that later. If I manually click the switch twice to add a credit it will add 55 credits! If I press start it will start a game, but none of the inserts will light, and it won't kick out a ball. I'm assuming there is a setup like classic Bally games where you need coil voltage for it to accept a coin. The only voltage (aside from the flippers) is 12VDC which is what is getting to the 5V and allowing the game to boot. The sound is working too. Fuses are all good, but voltage(s) are just not there. I'm trying to work my way backwards to see where things stop but am struggling. If anyone has suggestions I'll take them.

The frustrating part is this game worked fine at home after I put it back together, about 100 plays. I bring it to my location and then it starts locking up and blew F4(?), the 2.5A giving non-flipper coils their voltage. Rebuilt the power supply and it boots, but now coils don't work. Can't wait to find out what else was taken out when the fuse blew...

One more thing is normally it is booting with a "0" on the MPU, so all is good (so it thinks) and one time it booted with an "8". This is what pinwiki says about that: An eight displayed during memory chip test (using the CPU board switch SW2) indicates that the blanking circuit is functioning properly. I did not press the switch, but since it happened the first time I powered it on in 2-3 weeks, maybe it was just shaking off the cobwebs.

Ah ha! 3J4 was not plugged in, that solved the insert issue, and likely other things as well. Now it will start a game, play the lights and sounds, flippers and most other coils work, but still issues.

First, everything but the trough kickout worked and at some point the inserts went out as did the display. Switches stopped working and the game has basically crashed aside from the GI still being on.

Power cycled it and it boots fine, and the kickout even worked. Nice. Plunge a ball, play for a little while. It goes out the left outlane and it crashes again. I don't know if it was the switch or the game trying to fire the coil, but I hit other switches and slings and it seemed fine. So a little progress, and seemingly almost there.

I just walked over to it and the sound is still playing as well. Not sure if that helps at all, but it's a thing.

The slings have 2 switch sets. One that is behind the band that fires them, and the other is under the playfield. They are like an end of stroke switch. I have 1 on my F14 that isn't registering that is on my list of things to troubleshoot.

On mine, yeah. The switch behind the sling rubber is tied to the coil (special solenoid section maybe) but doesn't tell the MPU that it fired. That's the job of the second switch under the playfield.

Here is the current state of my little Cracker Jack box. Shirt back store is I got it all disassembled. I put it back together, fixed a few minor things, then took it to one of my locations after ~50 test plays. It gets through about 20 plays or so and starts locking up, and drawing out whatever sound effect was playing over a long period of time. The audio part was actually pretty interesting and at times sounded cool. Anyway, rebuilt the power supply and now this is what I get. It started with 55 or so credits that it put up on its own early into it freaking out.

4.93 DC

0.00 AC

If I could I would let you know, but now all it wants to do is give me a “0” on the MPU, but not audio, insert lighting, or displays.

So I have an injection molding machine and have been starting to look for smaller things to make to get a little more experience with it. This part seems right up my alley, but I don't think I'd be able to sell enough at $31 to make it worth the effort to have the mold made, knowing what previous molds have cost.

Reference: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-10999

If I had my own CNC mill and would be able to make the molds myself it wouldn't be a big deal. I'm wondering if there is even a chance at getting to break-even on that. I design my own molds, so it's not nearly as expensive as you typically read about. When you get to that stage, it's no different than any other job to the machine shop that makes the parts.

Consider it on the table. You are actually the exact person I thought of when debating pros/cons of taking on the task. Can you make any ramp you want as long as you don't add decals? Just wondering how many hoops there are to jump through.

How many people need one of those?

Also, anyone got any ideas in my issue above? MPU shows a “0” (RAM passes) but won’t continue the boot process all the way.

If you don’t mind, I’d happily accept that offer.

Thank you sir. Can I confirm your suggested location for the negative lead on the DMM? Ground braid? Ground plane of the power supply board? Elsewhere?

Everything listed above checks out on my end.

There’s a big difference between a professional company printing laser sintered parts on $40-$80k machines and a hobbiest printing parts on a $400 extrusion printer. I’ve printed stuff the size of a cupped hand in a pretty common material and they were $150 a pop. Amazing surface finish, which is what I wanted, but the good stuff isn’t cheap.

I have 4.04 VDC

I don't want to get too buried. Is this an acceptable voltage on the blanking signal?

Sounds like a plan, thanks.

I pulled the board, reseated those chips, put everything back in, confirmed everything was plugged in. I get a zero on the MPU, GI is on, but nothing more.

Bummer. I have a second High Speed that is in storage and worked when I put it away (waiting on hardtop) so I will try to pull the MPU off that and see what happens. I have to put a parts order in for various stuff, so I’ll add U15
To the list.

I swapped the CPU with the one in my other HS. The one I’m troubleshooting didn’t boot. For fun, I put the pulled CPU in the other HS. It booted. I think I might swap MPUs just for a short term functioning HS, assuming the issue is the MPU.

I was thinking. I was having rare booting issues on my Diner and somebody awesome suggested replacing C30. That has resolved the booting issues. It was similar to what HS is doing. GI would come on but no inserts, audio, or display. The difference being that was rarely happening with Diner and this came up all of a sudden. I bought spares, but they are in the cab of one of my location games. I get some sort of readings on C30 but they are a little bit all over the place. I get similar results with another new cap, so it might just me being a novice with this new DMM. C30 May be good for all I know.

I’d say do it and get the best deal you can in the trade.

I got the “adjust failure” message so I replaced the batteries. Now I just powered it up again and get the same message. What might be causing this with fresh batteries?

I changed batteries with the game on, and then played a few times and powered off. Turned it back on a little later without issues to play a few more times. That was yesterday. Today, loaded it up and took it to my location.

Not sure I’m following in what an open ad D-2 means. Can you dumb it down just a touch for me.

Ok, I actually didn't know that there is a diode on the board to prevent batteries from being charged. Considering it's got AA's on there, never crossed my mind.

Grumpy, I tried quoting you as well, but looks like the browser I'm on is not having it. As noted above, I hadn't even considered there being a diode to keep the batteries from getting charged, because why? I would have assumed that it would have been a separate circuit and charging isn't possible. So literally, D2, check it. Got it.

Based off the light reflection, I'm guessing this is clear coated. I bet that was "fun" to try and find. Better than those of us who are waiting for a Hardtop. Best of luck on the swap.

Revisiting this since I have finished some other repair projects. I tested the diode, and it passes. Open one way, .633 the other.

I measure 4.8XX VDC at the battery pack. Same numbers going into D2. However, 4.498 VDC coming out of D2. Is the diode bad because of this? I think I’ve read that less that 4.5 will give the “dead battery” failure. If I do need to replace it, can I use the 1N400X type that I have plenty of? This diode looks like the clear/orange variety but I don’t know if that matters.

Pin 24 on U25 is the same as what is coming out of D2.

Ok, I can live with that. I have a few System 11’s I want to do anyway. Thanks

Has anyone ordered one of these? I’m curious if it’s molded or printed and painted.

The rubber on my upper flipper is slowly getting cut by the metal ball guide. It’s aligned as it seemingly should be, and might even be a touch low. Is this normal?

Not at the moment. I rotated the band so the cut is on the back side for now. Will look a little closer when I get to my location later and see if there are any clues as to what might be off.

I have 2 High Speeds and I did rebuild kits on one of them, but can't remember which one. I'm guessing at this point that this game is not the one I had done.

A friend was playing my HS on location and said when he rolled over a lit special it tilted on him. I don’t even know how to light special, let alone test why this specific situation might have happened.

Friend says it was the right side.

My switches (or maybe just one) on the ramp are being very flakey. They are mounted under everything. Is there a good way to get to them to clean without taking the whole ramp off?

I’m almost done putting things back together after installing a hardtop. I have this metal piece and can’t see from my pictures exactly where it goes. These are the only holes that line up from what I can find, but wanted to confirm. Yea or nea?

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Thanks. Wouldn’t be shocked if I swapped a star post with a metal one. Had an area that I wasn’t certain about. This playfield had a bonus star post that shouldn’t have been there, so a few fun things went into this puzzle.

I’m on the tail end of reviving a High Speed. It played a few years ago when I set it aside waiting for the HS hardtop to come out, and then for time to put it in. That’s all done, and now it’s the electronics.

With things plugged in and a new cap kit on the power supply board I’m getting 5V on the MPU test point, but this funky digit on the display. There is a little bit of glow, but it’s those 3 segments that make a U shape. No clue what it’s trying to say.

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If I DMM the reset test point and the gnd test point on the MPU, what value should I get? I was reading that the reset circuit needs 12v do reset and I'm getting 5V. Seems like a pretty convenient value to be wrong.

My C30 was giving a reading of about 800mfd instead of 22mfd so I replaced it. The game booted and I was able to play a few games and was seeing that a lot of switches and even some coils were not firing. Took a break for a few days and went to power it on again today. It's not booting again. C30 is reading almost 900mfd, so I'm guessing it's dead again. I just replaced it though, so what would have killed it?

I always buy extra of these small components. Here is a fresh one. When I installed the one that’s in there before it died it measured pretty much the same value. I can put a new one in just as easily, but not sure I like that the one I just put in dies in 30 minutes of use.

For what it’s worth, with the black lead touching the metal plate in the head I get 2.8v on the pos side of the (likely) dead cap, and 0v on the neg side. This is with the game powered on but not booting.

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I just cut it off and checked and the one on the board reads 24mfd as well.

So maybe it was ok after all. Problem is that the cap was the last thing I replaced before it started working again.

Put a new C30 in and it’s still showing garbled display info on the MPU. Sooooo, seems like something else is keeping it from booting. Is there a list of components I can check? Thought I found one recently, but can’t find it again now.

What would cause the 7-segment display on the MPU to not light up at all? I was going through the 5V checks listed below and everything was good. Turned it off and went away for a little bit for lunch and now when I power it up the display is blank instead of garbled. I had replaced C30 and it started working and then after playing it for a few hours turned it off for the day. Next time I turned it back on the display was garbled again (leading me to think maybe C30 was fine). Now I have no display, but still have the 5v at the points below:

Test for Proper voltage on the boards.
Your game will never run if you don't have +5 volts on the CPU board. But first you must test for ground on the CPU board. To test for ground, turn the game off and set your DMM to "ohms". Make sure you get zero ohms from the ground test point TP1 (to the left of the batteries) on the CPU board, to the metal shield or ground strap in the backbox.

Next set your DMM to DC volts. Turn the game on, and test for +5 volts at TP2 on the CPU board (TP2 is to the right of chip U21). Make sure the black lead of your DMM on ground (backbox grounding strap). Now test for +5 volts right at the chips themselves. For example, test for +5 volts at U15 (the 6808 CPU) at pin 8. The 2764 EPROM at U26 and the 27256 EPROM at U27 will have +5 volts at pin 28. The 6821 PIA's at U10, U38, U41, U42, U51, U54 will have +5 volts at pin 20. Remember, pin 1 of all chips is by the "notch" in the chip. Also there is usually a white "dot" printed on the circuit board to show pin 1.

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Actually, I just did a test and I have 12 ohms between the GND test point and the metal back panel. That doesn't seem right at all. I touched the top center bolt, the one the ties the board to the stud to the metal back panel, and I got 9.8 ohms!?! What on earth is going on here?

EDIT: Did the test with the game off and I get 0.7 ohms. So now I'm just back to why the 7-segment is out. But also, why would that GND TP and back panel read 12 ohms with the game on?

I have a power supply hooked up to J117 and nothing else is connected to the MPU. The MPU is out and on a towel. If I have the black probe on pin 1 of J117 and I use the red probe to go around U46 I get 5V at each pin I touch. Might this be something wrong upstream, or is U46 toast?

If I touch one of the segment pins and ground the other side the segment goes on for just a moment and then goes off. Touched one of the ground pins (pin 3) on accident and it arced just a tiny bit. Obviously didn’t mean to, but tried a little harder to avoid doing that again.

EDIT: U47 is orange on my board. It's an MDP1603 271G. Found the data sheet saying it's a resistor pack, 271 ohms @ 2%. It measured 271.1 across each resistor, so that seems good. Onto the next thing upstream, U48. Looks like I'll be doing some diode tests on U48 once I find the sheet. More to come...

EDIT 2: U48 is a 7447 7-segment driver. I have no idea how to test this. Searching online, but if anyone is in the know, I'm all ears.

I found a video on YT of this chip being demonstrated with a 7-segment display with a computer program. I found it interesting. The video showed that you can actually get outputs higher than 9 with these “c” shaped patterns. That’s exactly what I was getting before the display died completely. I don’t know if it was trying to show me a 10, or a 12, or what, but it now seems to be a legit output instead of random characters. Now that the display isn’t showing anything, I’m wondering if the 7447 is bad, and the “c” was it on the way out, or if something even further upstream from that is bad.

Here is the video. If you go to 6:24 he scrolls down to a second chart and backwards "c" is supposed to represent an 11. My MPU has been Spinal Tapped.

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Make sure (with a ball, not your finger) that the switches are registering in switch test mode.

Other thing would be to see if the diverter is working in coil test.

New 7447 came in today. No luck. The 7-segment is still out on the MPU.

I did install a socket. I don’t know if the CPU is booting, is there a way to know without the 7-segment showing anything?

Do you know where I can find the process to test the blanking signal/circuit? I don't see anything in pinwiki, Google isn't pulling up anything specific, and this is the only info I can find on the other troubleshooting site I typically use:

The Blanking Circuit.
The blanking circuit is a protection circuit. If it senses there is a problem with the CPU board, it will shut down many functions on the board (including the score display strobes, so the display glass isn't damaged). The blanking circuit must be inactive for the CPU board to boot and function. The blanking circuit is reset by the display strobes. Blanking problems can also be caused by a short in any connecting logic chips.

If I'm reading this correctly U48 pin 6 should get 5V? I am getting that, and on SR19-6, and if it says SR13-5 I am getting 5V there too.

Is the CPU controlling that? Don’t think I’ve replaced that quite yet.

U43-3 is low. U51-4 is 4.75V. U55-1 is low, U55-2 is 5V. SR20-4 is low, the rest are all 5V.

Is that at simple as seeing 4.96V on the reset test point and saying it’s good?

These are LED Pinscore displays that have been on and fine for a little more than a month. I reseated both sides of the ribbon cable coming out of the MPU with no change. The board has a test button on it and when I press that it changes what is displayed, but it’s still not clear. Because the test button would just be sending info to the displays and not getting data from the MPU I have a feeling it’s the board that all of the displays plugged in. Any thoughts?

Not that I can see and I have had NVRAM in there for a while. I flipped the ribbon from the MPU and that didn't change anything. I reversed it so the red on both sides was opposite from what it normally is and that cleared it up. So I'll order a new ribbon cable so the red wire is pointing to the correct pin.

Has there ever been an alternate backglass/translite for High Speed?

I don’t dislike it, but it’s two different artists between the backglass and the playfield and I don’t like when that happens. I have one on location and one in work. I think with a “prettier” backglass it would attract more play. The alternate options for Getaway have some pretty cool designs.

My project is the one that I did my first hardtop on. Have a bare MPU that Dumbass made and I still have to populate it. Really looking forward to having it flipping again to see how the hardtop feels.

I wouldn’t redo all of the connectors at this point. Bally games need that, on System 11’s I’ve only ever needed to redo the GI connector.

If there is a pre-driver transistor that is likely gone too. It’s shaped like a “D” when you look at it from above. I had a shorted pop coil and it killed the transistor and the pre-driver.

If I can get one ball on each flipper but have to let the 3rd ball drain, I’d take that every time.

I use Comet cool white 2SMD bulbs on every game that doesn’t have factory LEDs. With the frosted dome they are exactly what I want. I hobby operate and everything pre-2013 (or whenever stern moved to factory LED) gets these in the GI and inserts. EMs just get them for GI and then I use non-ghosting bulbs for inserts. Haven’t bought those in so long that I can’t remember exactly which ones.

Make sure the EOS isn’t snagging the pawl when the flipper is activated.

The pivot point of that kickout is likely gummed up just enough to give you this issue. Take things apart, clean the metal surfaces of the pivot point with 70%+ rubbing alcohol (I get 90%+ at Walmart or the grocery store) and see if that helps.

Did you do anything for the factory cab speaker being 4 ohms and the new speaker being 8?

Good info, thanks.