Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.

Thanks in advance!

Thanks for all the advice!

I know going in that the Mylar is a mess in spots. Community seems torn in general on whether to leave it be or pull it up. Any thoughts specific to this table?

Since this will be my first table, I’m inclined to leave it. Plan is to fix up some of the minor cosmetics (e.g.: broken beacon light), enjoy it for a while, then sell/trade for the next.

That’s encouraging. Not expecting perfection, but presume you didn’t suffer too much paint loss in the process?

Also, did you clear coat it after or just re-Mylar?

Guess I’m now the ranking FNG. Picked up a HS with some updates (LEDs, Freeplay40’s clear ramp, Pinscores) and clean looking boards. The PF is about what you would expect given its age (Mylar issues, wear in the standard places) and the back box is a mess. But, plays well and has a nearly perfect back glass.

Now to clean it up and level it!

image (resized).jpg

With apologies in advance for any stupid questions...

Having an intermittent issue with my HS where it has blown fuse F4 a couple of times. I looked on the CPU board and saw that Q73 has a leg scorched (see attached pic). It tests OK with a DMM, but I get that how it tests without power doesn’t mean it’s good when powered on.

Obviously I’ll replace that transistor, but wanted to figure out what lives downstream of that transistor so I don’t end up frying the next one. If I’m reading the schematics correctly (very likely not ), this connects to IJI9-3, which leads to special solenoid 3.

If this is all correct, what is SS 3?

Also, beyond checking the coil (plan on following these steps: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_coil), anything else I should verify before replacing the transistor?

Thanks in advance!

BCBC4632-7F85-435B-8FD8-72D56B93CAA4 (resized).jpeg

Thanks Grumpy! Glad to know I was close.

I was thinking the transistor hadn’t been replaced post-scorching as the solder on that leg is also scorched. Is that a bad assumption on my part?

Again, truly appreciate the help!

Good news: Haven't gotten it to fail again.
Bad news: Haven't gotten it to fail again.

But, a couple of mystery screws to fell out of the PF while doing some other work. They look like the screws to hold the cover to a pop bumper (I didn't touch the covers, for what that's worth). Odd thing is these mystery screws are silver; ones in the pop covers currently are black. I couldn't find any other sources of those kinds of small screws.

Anyway, given that the suspect circuit is the right pop, having rando hardware lying somewhere around the pops might explain why it was intermittent.

Fingers crossed...

Thanks for the callout. I've got Feeplay40's clear ramp on it with no cover.

Just looked for them, but didn't find in my random parts bin. Not sure what I did with them, but they look like the left screw in this image:
https://www.pinballlife.com/bumper-cap-screws.html

Found them. Here's what one looks like. Gotta think this is from the pop cover, but open to other suggestions.

IMG_5664 (resized).JPG

Perhaps it's this guy, minus the lock washer: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01003-08

Description says it was also used on the rod and ring assembly, so will take a peek there later tonight.

Just an update for posterity. Took nearly 300 games for the issue to come back, but think I might have the root cause. After this recent failure, I popped a fuse back in and played, videoing as I played.

In this case, it went when I hit the right flipper, which made no sense. The fuse blowing is for the special solenoids. But, it did hit the left sling just before I flipped. I found that the left sling was mechanically bound up. It would only go halfway through it’s stroke. I took everything apart, but didn’t find anything obvious.

I guess it would make sense that if it never hit its EOS, that would pop the fuse.

So, don’t know exactly why the sling bound up, but will order new hardware for both. Luckily, the left coil seems to be in good shape (no scorching, sleeve came right out).

Also, seems that the burning on the tranny for Q73 might be a red herring. Plan on replacing it, and the other bits in the chain soon.

Will update if anything new transpires.

That sounds like the behavior of the slam tilt, so maybe it happens during more "enthusiastic" play? Or at least that's how my HS acts if I test the slam tilt; just a reset back to attract mode, no tilt message.

For what it's worth, I verified via switch edge test that I can invoke the slam tilt by closing the coin door sufficiently quickly (but nowhere close to a slam). So, doesn't take much.

Just tossing these out there in case it's applicable.

Presume you’ve gone through the steps on pinwiki.com? Here’s the Sys9/11 troubleshooting section: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#MPU_Boot_Error_Codes

Yes, please do keep us posted. This looks awesome!

Crud. If the price were low enough, that might make me regret going the Hardtop route. But, the PF is all sanded down, so I'm committed at this point

Having recently just installed a Hardtop, I have to say I’m happy with the result.

A $300 solution seems more appropriate for a $1500-2000 pin, but I can definitely understand that $800+ is worth it for some people - especially a proper collector’s quality machine.

Haven’t seen that on mine in the ~6 months I’ve had it. Got any pics?

Ah, fair point. I did a full rebuild, plus I have Titans on my machine which might be less susceptible to this issue.

Looking at mine, I definitely see a groove in the rubber at that spot, but it’s just a dent. No cut.

Guess that’s a proof point of the durability of the Titans

Or alternatively, there's a few new - fixed - Hardtops available: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/prototyping-a-hardtop-high-speed/page/7#post-5192271

Special is lit when you "run the red light" a 2nd time.

The Pinball Pimp folks sold me just the backbox stencils. Might wanna see if they will sell you just the front.

Curious on whether I makes much of an improvement in the sound. I replaced the stock speaker with more modern tech and it didn’t make much of a difference. Granted, it wasn’t a co-ax speaker, but expected a bit more of an improvement over a the stock paper cone POS

I'll triple it. I had a significant bounce, especially on my right inlane. Cliffy's made them buttery smooth! Well worth the money, especially given how much it improves gameplay.

You won't regret the Hardtop. I installed one on my HS and it plays *awesomely*! Here's a link to my install, which has a link to a photo gallery in the 2nd post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hardtop-on-a-high-speed

Good luck with the restore!

If you put a Hardtop on it, it’s salvageable. But, that’s $300 + a lot of labor, presuming you’re up for that.

Having put a Hardtop on mine, I will say that it was well worth the effort. Not a project for the timid, though.

Given the condition of the playfield, I’d presume you’d want to do full rebuilds on all three flippers and who knows what the underside looks like. Might be hacks galore under there. He should be willing to drill the lock out so you can see. Someone will have to do it eventually.

With all of that, it would be hard to go over $750 given what you can - and can’t - see here. If it ends up being clean underneath, maybe a grand, bit only if you want to Hardtop or can find an inexpensive playfield to swap.

Note: I am likely more forgiving with my pricing than most.