(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

6 years ago

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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by frisbez
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#373 5 years ago

My HS sends the ball around both ways and another example I have played did the same. Get someone to play while you watch and look for something subtle. What about the very long stretched double rubber along the back of the playfield. If that sticks out into the ball path even a little the ball will not coast along it would be deflected down.

2 months later
#941 5 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

I forgot to mention. He thought some sort of decal would be great. I mentioned toyotaboy's idea for a roadbed and he really liked that idea.

I keep staring at those Steve Ritchie photos and wondering how you have such a bright back glass. I LED'd mine but it is not that bright. I did put colour changers under the cops arm patches which looks pretty cool.

3 months later
#983 5 years ago

I finally had a chance to play two High Speeds besides my own. My hide out kickers come out like cannon fire where these other machines are quite gentle and slow in comparison. I do not see any way to adjust this, why is my machine so hard shooting? They could look original.

#985 5 years ago
Quoted from BMHouze:

Be thankful it kicks well.
I had to change mine as sometimes it would barely kick enough to send the ball right down the middle.
As long as your hitting and moving up past the right top flipper it's working good in my opinion.
I would suggest inspecting the tip of the kicker. I know my old one was not very flat and pretty mangled when I compared it to its replacement.

Sorry, I meant the two hideouts kickers. My kickback at the lower left works well.

4 weeks later
#1018 5 years ago

I just went through the same problem on an Eight Ball. What I did was to shine a light up through the stencils on a play field glass to align them to each other. I snipped notches into the corners of the stencils where the legs cover them. That way you at least have a reference when doing the second colour on the cabinet. Even then I found I had to roughly apply the second stencil check alignment and adjust things, at least I had a reference. I found the twistedpins stencils were good quality but not well thought out in terms of colour order and they had no overlaps, everything had to be perfectly aligned.

#1021 5 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Thanks, it's super frustrating. Not to mention the color sequence seems to be in reverse of what others have done White -> Red -> Yellow instead of Yellow -> Red -> White. I just took a look at Jim's restoration thread from a year and a half ago and try and use that as my guide. I only wish Qbass had documented the stenciling process a bit better.
This was probably not the best project to get my feet wet with stenciling.

That is pretty strange using White first.

#1023 5 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Yeah, when my friend and I tried to lay it down we were just baffled. There was no decent way to line it up. I think I'll start with the yellow and go from there. At least then we will have reference points. I'm not at all happy with the stencils. How hard is it to put in registration marks?

After I lined them all up on a sheet of glass (use a really bright work light underneath), I stapled the sheets together (use staples at the edges both horizontally and vertically to hold things still). Then I snipped little wedge shapes in the lower corners. At each corner one from the side and one from the bottom. They were about 1" deep from the edge and 1/4" wide. I only had two stencils to do.

It would be nice if the references were part of the stencil of course. However no after-the-fact references will be perfect. But, they were extremely helpful when putting on the second stencil. I started by lining up the references and lightly tacking on the stencil. I observed issues so I pulled it off and remounted it but the references let me shift it by a known amount. I took 4 tries before I was happy and you really can remount it that many time if you only press it on lightly.

I also did quite a bit of trimming with a razor and also added some tape to adjust some shapes here and there. The biggest issue boils down to the lack of overlap. Its ridiculous. Looking carefully at my High Speed cabinet I can see a healthy overlap of ~1/8" in some areas.

#1025 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah that's because at the factory they used big metal stencils and they weren't worried about the overlap because they had to do so many very quickly. I just did the front of my game because it was in such bad shape. Didn't turn out to bad but was a major pain because they didn't line up at all. Probably should have layed down the yellow first.I was just following the instructions from the stencil maker.

Except properly designed stencils have overlap, it is not a speed issue. The colour order is forced by the stencil design. Stencils that are like puzzle pieces leave gaps, they are just poor.

8 months later
#1287 4 years ago

Put a DMM on the leads to the relay and see if it is getting voltage during self test. You don't even have to do that if the relay is clicking of course. On mine it would stop working after a while. It was blowing the 1A slow blow fuse. In the end I used a 2A slow blow since there is nothing else on that circuit and I think the motor was just getting older and drawing more current.

1 year later
#1665 3 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Hey, so I'm working on a High Speed for a friend who wants to put it in his bar. All in all it's a decent player's game, new plastics, plays well, etc. The only problem i'm finding is that the kickers seem wildly overpowered. It seems to me that the wireforms should feed the ball to the flipper, not shoot it with such force that it can drain right after you made the all-important ramp shot. I have verified that the coils are correct, and have moved the wireform positions back and forth several times, to no avail. Have any of you had this problem? Has anyone tried switching to a less powerful coil?

Mine is like that, they come out like a cannon shot. I just learned to catch the ball using the flippers.

1 year later
#2208 1 year ago

The slings and bumpers on a System 11 are the special solenoids that fire electrically simply via closing the switch without requiring the MPU to do anything. The lower switch is what tells the MPU to register a score. Definitely sounds like you have a bad switch underneath but luckily the game plays fine. YOu would also be missing the related sound effects I suspect.

3 months later
#2381 1 year ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Apologies in advance if this is covered elsewhere in the 48 pages of posts, but I'm looking at a HS later this weekend and wanted to know if there's any gotcha's to look for specific to this pin? Seen vids of it and looks like it plays pretty well, though there is definite mylar peeling/missing on the playfield.
Thanks in advance!

Not sure what others have had happen to the diverter but the two of them are a single mechanism on one coil. The mechanism can get sloppy but it is not hard to repair. If an arm is broke, it might be hard to find.
Go to the coil test and lock it on the diverter coil and let it fire a bunch of times. Stick your finger in there and let it smack it. It should be solid on each one.

4 months later
#2530 9 months ago

Definitely check the trough switches are working correctly and the shooter lane.

1 week later
#2572 8 months ago
Quoted from MikeVarney:

Any quick ideas? My topper red light works, but if it's running too long the 1A fuse will eventually blow. I assumed the motor was old and gummed up (I could even hear that sucker grinding!) so I replaced EVERYTHING. The mount, the reflector, new bulb, new motor, everything. Initially thought it was working but it blew again yesterday while I was having trouble escaping. There's nothing else on that side of the relay's circuit. What should I look at next? Should I plan on replacing that big relay that powers the circuit?
-- M

Mine would do that (my memory tells me it was 2A though). I finally decided to up the fuse amount a little. Never blew again.

2 months later
#2685 6 months ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

Maybe I'm the last to know, but have been chatting with monkfe who just purchased one of my clear ramps and he had said that CPR was going to do another run of High Speed playfields. I did not see any mention on the CPR site, so he double checked and received confirmation they will announce another run. Sweet!....I don't need one as I have already fully restored my High Speed with an earlier run of this playfield, but I know a lot of folks have been looking for one.

I also keep checking their site and see no sign of a High Speed re-run. Why wouldn't this have a sign up list? I would love to get a new playfield.

4 weeks later
#2749 5 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

The rubber on my upper flipper is slowly getting cut by the metal ball guide. It’s aligned as it seemingly should be, and might even be a touch low. Is this normal?

It is normal on mine. It mostly makes a very mild slice mark and once you can see it, it does not continue to grow.

4 months later
#2947 42 days ago

I believe those resistors are actually used to pre-warm the filaments of the flasher so they react quickly. Check the others while the game is operating, they should be warm.

3 weeks later
#3026 20 days ago
Quoted from MJW:

Some guy in Canada selling these on eBay. Looks pretty good. Matches spinners and attaches with Velcro.[quoted image]

Do you have a link for that? I tried searching and could not find it. Looks like a good way to cover that ugly bracket.

#3033 19 days ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

ebay.com link » High Speed Pinball Mod Twin Interstate Freeway Diverter Sign

That link works, I tried searching myself but came up empty, but I was on ebay.ca.

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