My HS sends the ball around both ways and another example I have played did the same. Get someone to play while you watch and look for something subtle. What about the very long stretched double rubber along the back of the playfield. If that sticks out into the ball path even a little the ball will not coast along it would be deflected down.

I keep staring at those Steve Ritchie photos and wondering how you have such a bright back glass. I LED'd mine but it is not that bright. I did put colour changers under the cops arm patches which looks pretty cool.

I finally had a chance to play two High Speeds besides my own. My hide out kickers come out like cannon fire where these other machines are quite gentle and slow in comparison. I do not see any way to adjust this, why is my machine so hard shooting? They could look original.

Sorry, I meant the two hideouts kickers. My kickback at the lower left works well.

I just went through the same problem on an Eight Ball. What I did was to shine a light up through the stencils on a play field glass to align them to each other. I snipped notches into the corners of the stencils where the legs cover them. That way you at least have a reference when doing the second colour on the cabinet. Even then I found I had to roughly apply the second stencil check alignment and adjust things, at least I had a reference. I found the twistedpins stencils were good quality but not well thought out in terms of colour order and they had no overlaps, everything had to be perfectly aligned.

That is pretty strange using White first.

After I lined them all up on a sheet of glass (use a really bright work light underneath), I stapled the sheets together (use staples at the edges both horizontally and vertically to hold things still). Then I snipped little wedge shapes in the lower corners. At each corner one from the side and one from the bottom. They were about 1" deep from the edge and 1/4" wide. I only had two stencils to do.

It would be nice if the references were part of the stencil of course. However no after-the-fact references will be perfect. But, they were extremely helpful when putting on the second stencil. I started by lining up the references and lightly tacking on the stencil. I observed issues so I pulled it off and remounted it but the references let me shift it by a known amount. I took 4 tries before I was happy and you really can remount it that many time if you only press it on lightly.

I also did quite a bit of trimming with a razor and also added some tape to adjust some shapes here and there. The biggest issue boils down to the lack of overlap. Its ridiculous. Looking carefully at my High Speed cabinet I can see a healthy overlap of ~1/8" in some areas.

Except properly designed stencils have overlap, it is not a speed issue. The colour order is forced by the stencil design. Stencils that are like puzzle pieces leave gaps, they are just poor.

Put a DMM on the leads to the relay and see if it is getting voltage during self test. You don't even have to do that if the relay is clicking of course. On mine it would stop working after a while. It was blowing the 1A slow blow fuse. In the end I used a 2A slow blow since there is nothing else on that circuit and I think the motor was just getting older and drawing more current.

Mine is like that, they come out like a cannon shot. I just learned to catch the ball using the flippers.

The slings and bumpers on a System 11 are the special solenoids that fire electrically simply via closing the switch without requiring the MPU to do anything. The lower switch is what tells the MPU to register a score. Definitely sounds like you have a bad switch underneath but luckily the game plays fine. YOu would also be missing the related sound effects I suspect.

Not sure what others have had happen to the diverter but the two of them are a single mechanism on one coil. The mechanism can get sloppy but it is not hard to repair. If an arm is broke, it might be hard to find.
Go to the coil test and lock it on the diverter coil and let it fire a bunch of times. Stick your finger in there and let it smack it. It should be solid on each one.

Definitely check the trough switches are working correctly and the shooter lane.

Mine would do that (my memory tells me it was 2A though). I finally decided to up the fuse amount a little. Never blew again.

I also keep checking their site and see no sign of a High Speed re-run. Why wouldn't this have a sign up list? I would love to get a new playfield.

It is normal on mine. It mostly makes a very mild slice mark and once you can see it, it does not continue to grow.

I believe those resistors are actually used to pre-warm the filaments of the flasher so they react quickly. Check the others while the game is operating, they should be warm.

Do you have a link for that? I tried searching and could not find it. Looks like a good way to cover that ugly bracket.

That link works, I tried searching myself but came up empty, but I was on ebay.ca.

I am going through my whole machine replacing old capacitors that have high equivalent series resistance. There are two caps on little boards associated with the hideout relays which lets them use 50V like the flippers. For some reason there is a similar looking relay near the left outlane kick back solenoid but it still uses the 25V circuit and that relay has a diode and resistor on a little board but no cap. I cannot find any diagrama showing these little boards and want to make sure the cap isn't just missing.

Has anyone here done a CPR playfield swap on a High Speed? Looking at my new PF it does not have any registration marks to place the pivot point hardware. It seems a bit odd for such an important piece that has to be in the right place.

Thanks both Dewman dmacy , and I will read through that thread. Not a big deal, just surprised such a major feature was missing.

I planned to it almost first once the old one gets pulled out. Just to check, when you said edge, you meant from the side or from the bottom end?

It will do this if the diverter tried and failed to put the ball in a hideout. The ball carries on but the machine expected it to be in the left hideout. It will fire the hideout solenoid twice attempting to clear the ball. I only ever have this happen on the left side.

Not sure I know what the multiball freeball is.

I have a freeplay ramp in red, mine old one was epoxied together and I would say the biggest difference is the smoothness and it is quieter being thicker. Also no need for the yellowed old cover. Odds really are no different in making the ramp for me.

My kick back is pretty consistent about shooting right to the right spinner cleanly. On a good shot it will just make it around and fall into the pops. Usually it is through the spinner a bit.

Definitely did not know about that one. I am in the middle of a playfield swap but I will test that out soon.

How do powder coated wire forms hold up under use? I see people doing it on various machines but nobody comments on if they last? Those sure look nice.

I just completed a HS PF swap. By far the longest one I have done. Later System 11s seem to have far less wiring.

I did a CPR swap on mine. This was my 3rd playfield swap and HighSpeed was by far the longest one to do. Look at the shear quantity of items underneath compared to later Sys 11 machines which have many fewer pieces to remove and replace.

That being said, I would only do a hard top if there were no other options for a machine I planned to keep.

I usually break the swap into 2 components, refreshing of mechanisms, polishing of parts, and clean up I count separately from the actual swap activity. I did a Flash Gordon swap as my second swap and that is comparably complicated to High Speed. I think it took me 50 hours of total effort for the FG swap. I would say High Speed was almost double. Both were CPR play fields but for High Speed there are so many more screws, each of which needed a pilot hole drilled. The dimples on the High Speed were maybe used only 20% of the time. I had to carefully compare between the new and old PF constantly to figure out placement. Dimples were often near where they needed to be but not close enough to use as is. It got to the point where I triple checked if I was about to use the CPR dimple location. There were missing holes occasionally, necessitating drilling through the playfield which is a nerve-wracking ordeal. All of this kept adding time to it. I was really happy when I was done.

I have a Diner and a Taxi that need swaps at some point and I did a lot of comparisons to them and they are just way less complicated on the underside compared to High Speed.

I should also point out that I have plenty of tools for the job, no shortage there. I just don't want to make any serious errors so I take my time. I also had to replace a lot of screws where the hard PF plys broke heads off the original screws which also slowed things down.

It goes up and down depending on the average game score. I think it adjusts it every 50 games (going by memory).

I always assumed my machine was assembled incorrectly. So I swapped the connector housings around so the smaller one is on the ramp side. I don't have to take the back board off.

Chances are that would be fixed in the mechanism below the playfield. A dirty worn coil sleeve could do this. A broken return spring could also do it. If they are good, remove the coil and actuate the arms by hand from where the coil pulls and see if it is smooth. I assume your arms have good clearance to the ramp openings?

Not totally clear, is your display working at all now? What is on or not on when you simply power up and do nothing else?

So attract lights are working, you can start a game and get the lights and sound effects but no ball feeds out?
If you have not done the basic power checks, make sure fuses are good, voltage getting to a few solenoids as a check. Curious if the switches are responding, in a game touch the traffic light targets and see if they respond. Hopefully two separate issues to fix the solenoids and the displays. Is the flipper relay working when you start a game?

F2 is the solenoid 34 VDC supply. If that is blown you will have no solenoids. There are few 50V solenoids as well fed by the flipper circuit. Are your flippers working? If so the 50V supply is okay. The 2 hideouts are controlled by a relay, the normal 34V supply triggers the relay, the 50V circuit is then fed from the relay to the actual hideout coils.

The output wire from the power supply for the 34V solenoids is red. That should meander across all the solenoid coils and have voltage on them at all times.

It sound like its worthwhile changing the flipper diodes as a precaution. For those lamps sticking on, check the lamp matrix to see if they have anything in common like same column or row.

Unlike later System11s High Speed has 3 simple connectors in the harness leading away from the playfield into the head. Unplug them and lift out the playfield. I put it vertical, lean over from the front with elbows on the side rails, and lift up and out.

High Speed runs all the flashers in pairs. So if one in the pair dies, the other is out too. It is a bit surprising that the two sets of four under the playfield are all out though, they are in 4 pairs.

Have you removed the ground on the little resistor boards for the flashers? High Speed is unusual in that the flashers are in series pairs. Each pair is associated with a resistor board. The resistors provide constant current through a resistor to keep the original filaments warmed, something later System 11s just got rid of. Some people clip the resistor leg, I clipped the ground from the board instead.

To use the later style #89 led flashers, you will have to wire the pairs of flashers in parallel instead of in series pairs.

If they were on steady you would burn out the bulb (led or incandescent), but since they pulse, they survive. They are actually getting 25V.

Both of those sound like switch issues. Do both register in the switch test?

The sling shots are 'special' solenoids, so the triggering switch should be separate from the scoring switch. Going from memory, the scoring switch is closed by the mechanism moving. Look underneath for it.

The saucer is a normal looking switch. May just need its contacts cleaned.

You can insert something that limits the solenoids travel to weaken it.

Do people use the high score logging here on Pinside, I always like to put my score in and hopefully move up the rankings. I am currently at #32, High Speed has some very high scores that people have achieved. My top logged score says 9+ Million, but my actual best is just over 11 Million. Once you get used to nudging the ball away from the right outlane I found ball time went up quite a bit.

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/high-speed/scores

I ignore 5 ball scores and simulator scores of which there are usually only a few. High Speed has a lot of awareness compared to most games so there are some really high scores. For other machines if I have owned it quite a long time I can usually get close to the top score.