Do not use anything with silver or arctic silver. You will fry it
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putting out some feelers to see if anyone happens to have a roached out playfield that they would get rid of.
Hey fellas. I got a full populated playfield a few years ago. This one is in better shape than the one I have. Wondering what I need to check before dropping it in and testing it out. Don’t want to blow anything on a good working board. Also. Has anyone tried to do a high polish on the Mylar with novis 2&1?
Quoted from LGFAutos:You need to check all the coils for smooth movement, and the resistance across the lugs. All the diodes, snubbers and the resistor boards for all the flashers. Don't forget to check all the switches, paying attention to the flipper switches. Making sure switches that are supposed to be open are, and the ones that need to be closed are closed (flipper switches).
Awesome. Thank you. Will be starting this soon
has anyone hooked up a sub to their high speed? I picked up a polk psw50 at a garage sale for $5 bucks. Tried to hook it up yesterday and didn't get any sound. I need to test the speaker but wondering if anyone has done that to their high speed and how they hooked it up.
yes the power light comes on. I did have it hooked up to the right side and tried left on the input side. I just hooked it up to a stereo and it was quiet and crackling. might be the speaker. no wonder why it was 5 bucks.
Dispatch-I'm having an issue with the diverter. Please advise
so lately the diverter has not been working. The ball just flys on by. I'm sure it is in this thread but 79 pages is a lot to dig through
Quoted from desertT1:Make sure (with a ball, not your finger) that the switches are registering in switch test mode.
Cool will give that a try
Hey mrextrm. I was just out by you doing a beer run. All three are the same on mine. I also have a spare playfield and all the same. Someone probably swapped out and put in a lightning bolt flipper.
Quoted from Hench4Life:thanks!! Where were you getting beer from?
Holiday Market. Had a dragons milk flavor that was keg only. Grabbed the last one.
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:If you have an OEM ramp with the clear cover you will need to remove that cover to easily access the switches with a ball.
First do an easy check of the molex connector for the ramp. It is located far back under the playfield. make sure it is connected together.
Ok got to messing with this. So ramps where barely registering. Took ramp out. Changed switches. Made sure they where adjusted nicely and left switch sometimes reads. What could be causing this? I’ll make sure they are adjusted better and tight. Any other ideas or is there a way to adjust without pulling the ramp?
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Pulling the ramp is the only way I know to adjust the switches. Since they need precise adjustment you need to have unobstructed access to them.
Did you hook up a multi meter to the problem switch when the ramp was out to see if it is registering good without any resistance?
I have not. Will do that when I pull the ramp again. Didn’t think about that. Thank you
If it was me, I wouldn't pay 1350 needing a lot of work and new backglass. you can find better out there fully working for the same price area.
Its a great game and one that probably will not leave my collection. Not leaving due to remembering this was one I went to at the arcade. Now if you can get a good deal on one, which you can, snatch it up. It's a great classic.
That one you are looking at sounds like it would be a little bit of a money pit and you'd be upside down very quick.
Thank you. So looking under the playfield I see 7 resistor boards? Also counting the bulbs there are 8 in the radar section, 4 in the red covers, and 2 back behind the ramp. Am I missing any?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yes, but keep both wires twisted together with a wire nut.
Right on. Thank you for the info. Wouldn’t have thought to do that
So that pic was from my spare playfield that I have been looking over for references before I do it. the one in the game are both black wires and one does go to the relay. So I am guessing that both removed but wire nut together
So had something weird over the weekend. Left side of back box gi was cutting in and out. Probably cold solder joint on the chain?
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:My Taxi had batteries with an exp date of 2001. They did leak, but only on the (non-original) battery holder and I was able to clean it off. I still need to clip and solder on a remote battery until I send my boards off for bulletproofing, I just haven't gotten around to it. Didn't want to lose my high scores...
you still may have some damage to other things on the board from the battery. plus, you never really get the battery holder fully clean. best to get that off and get someone to do a clean up job on it soon. it's ok if you lose the high scores, you just have to try harder to set new ones
Quoted from GRUMPY:Call me crazy but I don't see anything wrong with this, didn't hurt the game, totally reversible and left the game original. Ok maybe the wires could have been longer and it should have had lithium batteries.
Top 4 reasons for CPU damage in pinball machines:
1. Nicad batteries being charged constantly on the CPU.
2. Changing the formula of Alkaline AA batteries causing them to leak prematurely.
3. Installing leds.
4. Installing NVRAM chips.
Curious how installing leds can screw up the cpu
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109597
Here's one on the market in red (not wire forms though)
that's toooooooooo much!
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