So I recently bought my High Speed game and I have a rather simple question I think. I was wondering if you were supposed to score points for hitting the angled slingshots - under the Turbo Boost and Oil Pressure - next to the flippers? Mine does not score any points and the rest of the game is in pretty good shape.

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Thanks gutz. I cleaned and bent the leaf scoring switch below the slingshots and now it is registering 10 points for each slingshot. I assume this is the right scoring.

I am a little late to the High Speed party having only gotten my HS about 3 months ago. I have been fixing and learning about my machine for 3 months and now feel ready to do a few modifications. I have already modified all the lights, changed the instruction cards a little, painted the stoplight school bus yellow and added the freeway sign below the ramp. I have one of the vertical stoplights on the way from RobTune - not sure if I will use it or not. I have looked at the clear ramp with the decal on the bottom and that looks pretty good - Not sure if I want to shut the game down for a while to send the pieces to have it all riveted up somewhere. Anyone have any new modifications to the game. In particular I am wondering whether anyone has changed the playfield glass and what the results were.

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I have thought about the red ramp but thought it might be a little overpowering. I think I really need to see the clear one and the red one before I decide. Is there an easy way to install these ramps from Freeplay or is it best to send him the pieces and have him rivet everything together.

I was also wondering if anyone is using the anti-reflective playfield glass and whether it makes a big improvement.

OK. So I think I am going to get the clear ramp from Freeplay40 - Hopefully still selling them - and have him install everything. I also love the decal on the bottom of the ramp. Sounds like you get this from Mr_Tantrum but I do not know how to find where to order it. Any suggestions?

As usual once i make a decision I rethink everything and come to a different conclusion. Reading further I realize that the clear ramp would expose the flasher in the back left corner of the machine. I see that some people have disconnected that flasher or put some covering over it but I like the flasher. Now thinking the red ramp might work better to hide that flasher a little and maybe diffuse the light when the flasher is on. Is this true?

Also.....The inside of the cabinet walls that are visible on the playfield are painted black and kind of make the playfield a little dark. Has anyone repainted these side walls in either white, or green or yellow or red or any other color that brightens up the playfield a little. I think the back wall would look pretty good painted green.

Thanks for the ramp input. The part where you cut a pasted part of the black ramp really interests the engineer in me. I kind of like the blue on the interior walls....but I might be wrong.

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So I like the colored walls but when I put the lights on there are a lot of shadows. That probably explains why the interior walls are all black.

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I have owned my HS for almost a year and have fixed most of my problems. Now I have 2 new problems:

1. When I turn the game on - the ADJUST FAILURE comes on in the displays and the game will not play. When I go through the Adjustments it seems the Free Play is set to NO. When I reset the Free Play to YES the game will play. But when I shut the machine off and turn it back on the ADJUST FAILURE comes on again and the Free Play is shown as NO. I have replaced the batteries and the problem is still there. I have looked through the Forum and can not find a fix other than change the batteries.

2. The machine is showing problems with Switch 39 and Switch 40. I know these switches are on the Left Hideout but I do not know how to adjust them. Can someone tell me how to adjust these switches.

Thanks for anyone's help.

Thanks Grumpy. I think the battery holder is working because it keeps the High Scores but I will check the battery holder tomorrow morning. Do I check D-2 with a multimeter?

I think Switches 39 and 40 are working but they are not working correctly. Sometimes they go off and the Ramp Scores when the ball does not go in the hideout. Do I take the plastic off the playfield to adjust Switch 40?

Couple more things have come up that might or might not be associated with these problems.

I did not use the game for about a month and when I started up a game. All 3 of the Pop Bumpers would not fire. The ball would hit the bumpers but nothing would happen. After playing the game for a couple balls - All of the bumpers started working and worked the rest of the game. Any idea what would cause all 3 Pop Bumpers to not work?

Thanks for the help. The pop bumpers seemed to be the only area of the playfield affected. It seemed strange to this pinball novice that when the game got going the bumpers started working. My first thought is there is a wire a little loose somewhere and playing the game set it straight. Just not sure which wire it would be. Also the sound keeps going in and out. When the game starts there sometimes is no noise but when the game gets going the sound comes on and stays on. Again I am thinking there s a connection a little off somewhere. When I move the bank of wires that lead from the top of the power board to the sound board - it seems to make the noise work. Should I take off the power board and resolder those pins. I have never taken a board off before and although I am pretty handy I am getting tired of doing things I have never done before.

As for my sound issue. When I put downward pressure on the white connector or press on the grey wire which is furthest to the left in this picture of the 14 or 15 pin connector at the top middle of the Power Supply Board - I get the sound to work. Because I can get it to work by pressing on the connector or moving the wire around - Does that mean typically that the pin on the power supply board needs to be resoldered or is there some other likely problem. I have never done any work on the boards before but have watched many YouTube videos about it and read many comments about it. Thank you.

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While I am at it and abusing your knowledge of my HS game - I have this "thing" under my Playfield. It is located next to the Coil for the upper right flipper. It appears to have been added at some point since it has the heat shrink around the wires. it is connected to the coil for the flipper and is covered in this white rubbery substance that I assume holds it in place. I have never had a problem with this right upper flipper so I am reluctant to touch it. Does anyone know what this is and does it look like it is correct? Thanks.

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And as for the pop bumpers. In this photo of the underside of the Playfield - Can someone point out to me which is the power wire that might be having trouble that connects all the pop bumpers together. Thanks.

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Lower flippers have the same coils as the upper flipper and it looks like whoever made the change also added those capacitors to the lower flipper coils as well. I assume this is ok.

For the bumpers - Is there something or some wire that would make all 3 of the bumpers go dead at the same time and then restart at the same time. Seems to me like there must be a wire that goes to one of the bumpers and then is passed along to the other two bumpers. Or is it set up so that when one bumper fires they all fire? Going to each bumper coil there are 2 red wires - each with white stripe - on one connector and then a white wire - with an orange, green, yellow stripe - on the other connector. The diodes have a grey band which is closest to the red wire connector.

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Is there a chance that the bumper problem is similar to the sound problem and one of those wires from the 14-15 pin connector on the Power Supply Board goes to the bumpers. Maybe the pins are loose on the Power Supply Board and that is causing a problem with the bumpers.

Thanks Pin-Pilot. I just ordered all the capacitors for the Power Supply Board and I should be doing it this weekend. First time - But I think I can do it. And a new PSB is not that expensive if I screw it all up.

For all new High Speed owners. I strongly recommend that you consider the stop light mod that has been created by RobTune. I did it on my machine - actually painted it School Bus Yellow - and it really opens up the ramp. From a DIY perspective - I would call it about a 5 out of 10 for difficulty. For pinball work I would call it a 2 out of 10 for difficulty. Good Luck.

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9 months ago I bought a real nice High Speed in full working condition for $1,600. Nice High Speed games are out there for reasonable prices

So on my High Speed there is a light bulb just to the left of the San Diego Freeway sign and almost under the far right pop bumper (The bright white light in the photo). There is nothing blocking or diffusing this light and it is kind of annoying - to me at least. Has anyone put something over this light like a light cover or something else that keeps the light from being so bright. I have a warm white Comet LED in there now and i am wondering if I should change this light to something different. There are so many new LED's out there - there must be something that will not shine in my eyes.

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Thank you Killborn. I just ordered some of the flex heads and I will see how they work

Slingshot Kicker Assembly. New issue....for me at least. I feel like both my slingshot kickers are a little sloppy and sluggish and are not real snappy. The rubbers, coils and sleeves seem fine and the switches are adjusted pretty good. In the at rest position, there is about a 1/8" gap between the kicker arm and the rubber. The problem seems to be that I can move the kicker arm around quite a bit - both side to side and front to back. Not sure how much play you should have in the kicker arm but there seems to be too much. I have never taken one apart and can not figure out which piece(s) I need to buy to fix this. Do I get the plunger and link? Will a new kicker arm fix the excess play? I know there are many other forums talking about this but I need it simplified as to what piece(s) I need to replace. And I have not played other High Speed games in the past 30 years so maybe that is just the way they are. Thanks.

So I guess I am officially an led convert even for a great traditional High Speed game. Tried a few flex head led's by Comet (Thanks Killborn) and they are pretty neat. Put them anyplace there was a light that flashed into my eyes (under the slingshot, next to the San Diego Freeway sign) and they work great. Put one to the left of the SD Freeway sign and it lights up the hole kickout area real good. I suggest HS owners give them a try. They really light up the game.

My High Speed has been running pretty good lately. The only problem is the top playfield flashers were not working. Put in all new bulbs - Still not working. Went under the playfield and found these 2 resistors? under the ramp entrance. The resistor on the left had its top connection loose so I soldered it back on. Can not start game - kids sleeping. Does this picture look right and could this fix my flashers problem? Thanks.

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I think Mr. Tantrum has it in the Market under High Speed Freeplay40 Ramp Road Decal Set.

I switched to 63’s for the flashers. Game had 89’s in it and I can not tell the difference. Thanks Grumpy and Pin-Pilot for the help. All flashers are working...for now.

I had a similar problem and it was the 14 or 15 pin connector at the top of the power supply board. The pins were not connecting properly. I just adjusted the connection a little and put some electrical tape on the wires to keep pressure on the connectors. I know....I know....Lousy fix - But I just know if I remove the power supply board and resolder the pins I will create all kinds of new issues.

Now for my issue of the night. My flipper switches are pretty worn out but the flippers still work pretty good. I would like to replace the flipper leaf switches but the flipper switches have capacitors connected to them to reduce the sparking. I could order the switches and the capacitors and solder everything but I would rather buy the switches with the capacitors on them. My question(s) is/are: Do I really need these capacitors if the game is being used for maybe 100 games/week. If I need or should have the capacitors does anyone know where I can buy the leaf switches with the capacitors attached? Thanks.

I have a question regarding the scoring of points for the escape/eject hole. My game is awarding 10,000 and sometimes 50,000 points for shooting the ball into the eject/escape hole. I do not think this is correct but I can not find what the correct scoring is.. Does anyone know many points should be scored for the eject/escape hole? And if my game is scoring incorrectly....Anyone have any idea as to why this might be happening?

Thank you.

RAMP/DIVERTER QUESTION: I have owned my HS for a year and it works pretty good. The one issue I have from time to time is with the ramp/diverter switches. They usually work ok and the first ramp ball goes down the right hideout and the 2nd ramp ball goes down the left hideout and there is a rotation after that. But sometimes the ball will go up the ramp fast and the Ramp Gate/Diverter will not activate at all and the ball will just come out by the upper flipper. I assume this is because the switches under the ramp are not adjusted properly. (Someone please tell me if my assumption is wrong).
I know - I think - that there are 2 switches under the ramp (42 and 43) and these activate the ramp gate solenoid (13). I do not understand how these 2 switches are connected. I assume switch 42 does not work on the first ramp shot and 43 activates the gate. Then on the next ramp ball, switch 42 activates the gate. Can someone please tell me how these switches are connected so they know how to work together?
Also if my ball goes up the ramp and does not activate the gate assembly - I assume one of my switches needs to be adjusted a little closer....Is that correct?
I know there has been a lot written and discussed on this issue and I have spent plenty of time reading it all but I still have questions.

Thanks everyone for helping. I have checked everything in diagnostics and it all checks out ok. Since this is the only HS I have worked on - I am just not sure how sensitive those 2 switches need to be. About 2 months ago I took the whole ramp assembly apart and cleaned everything and adjusted everything and it worked perfect for about 6 weeks - maybe 400 games. I bought the medium switch blades, fish paper and SM-X contacts from Pinball Resource thinking I would need to rebuild the switches. I remember it was a lot of work taking it all apart so need to get motivated to do it again. I am a huge Grumpy fan (and a fan of others who contribute a lot on this Forum) so if he says it should be done....It should be done.
Did I buy the right pieces to rebuild the switches (42 and 43)?

How do I get the contacts off the original leafs? Do I just heat them like I was desoldering?

Just did some practice on an old leaf switch I had. I used my side-cutters to cut off the old contact and it seemed to work. Is this the best way to do it?

OK. This project is happening tomorrow. Got to say - These projects would be a lot easier if my kids could go to school and my wife could go to her office...Respectfully.

So you replaced the rollover/switch with a rollover sub-microswitch like Marco sells? How did you attach the microswitch - with a bracket screwed into _____? And did you wire it with a diode?

I have some of the medium thickness blades - .012 - from PBR but I would like to try to use the existing blades. Do you press the contacts after you fit them through the leaf hole with pliers or something else or do you just push them through and solder them? I like the microswitch idea but that might be overkill.

Can I use this https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rollover-sub-microswitch-5647-12693-19.html
with this https://www.pinballlife.com/black-plastic-microswitch-bracket.html
and this https://www.pinballlife.com/diode-1n4004.html

It is hard for me to know what to use without taking the ramp apart and seeing the switches. And when I do take the ramp apart I want to be able to have the parts ready to fix it. I would like to have the microswitch parts ready when I do the work then decide if I use the leaf switches or the microswitch.

Using a microswitch and never having to remove the ramp and adjust or clean the switches again is appealing to my engineer instincts. I have to think that if they were building it now - they would use microswitches under the ramp....at least.

I have the fish paper from PBR. Might give it a try in the morning. Thanks for the help.

So I get myself motivated to do all the work on my switches today. Took 45 minutes to get set up and the ramp off. And when I looked I realized that the switches (42 and 43) were brand new. Apparently I replaced them when I cleaned everything a couple months ago. But I did close the gap on these switches and cleaned the rollover switches. Hard to tell from these pictures but does that gap in the switches look good? Thanks.

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Wait a minute....Isn't there supposed to be fish tape in there somewhere.

Never mind....Looks like it is there.

Where did you get the Universal MRS? I know someone was selling them on Pinside. Sounds like a good fix to a problem that has been around a long time.

I have sent a message to Sonic about getting a micro switch for the ramp. Do you need a diode with the MRS? I assume you will just stick the switch underneath the ramp where the old switch was or maybe stick it on the backside of the ramp?

Thanks Grumpy. So I just played about 10 games on my HS and the diverter/ramps are not working consistently. I know the switches are set good. Everything works perfect on the Switch Edges. But when I play - the ball very rarely goes up the ramp and down the left hideout. When I escape and am entering multi-ball, the diverter seems to work perfect and the first ball goes down the right hideout and the second ball goes down the left hideout - which I think is what is supposed to happen.
I think the picture I am attaching is that terminal board where the diodes for the switches are located - the wire colors from the board seem to match the wire colors on the switches (42 and 43). I am no diode expert but the one on the right appears a little different than the one on the left. Could something on this terminal board be causing the problem? And how would I check the components on that terminal board?
Am I correct in assuming that the balls should alternate going down the hideouts during normal gameplay: 1st ramp ball - right hideout, 2nd ramp ball - left hideout, 3rd ramp ball - right hideout... Or is it just dependent on how fast the ball is travelling as to which hideout each ball goes down (slower ball left hideout, faster ball right hideout).

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Just checked the 2 diodes on the board and they appear to be "healthy"....Got a reading of about .585 on each. Maybe tomorrow I will play around with the ramp switches while in game mode and see what happens.

So I know I have some "weak" pins on the 14/15 pin connector at the top of the power supply board as shown in the picture. I have the capacitors to replace the existing ones and need to resolder the pins. I have been reluctant to do it because I have never done it and with some well placed electrical tape I can put enough pressure on the pins to make them work. Would one of those pins or capacitors be helping or causing my problem with the ramp/diverter.

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Thanks Grumpy. I may try to take off the board and start to do some work. If I can not do it - I will send it to you.

So I think I have done all I can to the ramp/diverter without replacing the existing leaf switches with micro switches. Just played it and it works perfect - Not sure how long this will last. Here is what I did:
- Remove the ramp - not that hard.
- Replace the 2 leaf switches under the ramp (42 and 43) - Not hard but need to solder.
- Set the gap on the 2 leaf switches (42 and 43). These need to be set pretty close - small gap - so they activate the Ramp Gates Solenoid (No. 13) quick and strong. The first switch (42) needs to be set real close to work properly. Because of this I recommend using at least a medium weight leaf. A lightweight leaf might move too much if you set it as close as you need to.
- Replace the ramp.
- Overhaul the Ramp Gate Assembly. Check the solenoid. Replace the coil sleeve. Clean the Coil Plunger. Replace the spring attached to the plunger. I also put a small bit of oil on the metal to metal connection from the metal pins to the drive link. My Gate Assembly seemed a little "sticky" and I think this needs to be as free as possible so the Gate shuts quickly. Again not hard but a little time consuming.

Hopefully this will stay working for a while. Thanks for all your help. I will update when my micro switch come sin and I hook it up.

Last night I looked at the ramp rollover switches up close to see what happens when the ball goes over them. If the ball is going pretty fast it hits the first switch and the switch acts as a ramp and the ball actually goes up in the air and starts bouncing. So when it hits the second switch it is sometimes in the air and the switch does not register. If this was already known to everyone please let me know. I think that is a good reason to replace the first switch on the ramp with a microswitch which will "rollover" easier than the leaf switches and keep the ball from bouncing.
The problem is if you set the first leaf switch up as close as it needs to be to register all the time - Then the switch is harder to "rollover" flat and instead acts as a ramp causing the ball to jump in the air. Probably explains why even if the switches are set up perfectly - they do not always work perfectly.

NEED MORE HELP WITH THESE RAMP GATES
Here is where I am at. When I run the diagnostics - Switch Edges - Everything seems fine. I know the switches under the ramp (42 and 43) are new and clean and the gaps are set pretty good. When I test these switches with the game on here is what happens: In Normal Play - When the ball rolls over the first ramp switch (42) the Ramp Bonus gets added to the score but the Ramp Gates do not close....When that ball hits the 2nd switch (43) the Ramp Gates close and the ball goes down the right hideout. This happens every time the ball goes up the ramp in Normal Play. Now when you "Getaway" up the ramp the ball locks in the right hideout, the next ball up the ramp hits Switch 42 and the Ramp Gates close. So Switch 42 ONLY activates the Ramp Gates when the game is in "Getaway Mode".
I am thinking that Grumpy is right - I know I know...No shocker there - and this is a power issue. Somehow in Normal Play, Switch 42 does not activate the Ramp Gates but that Switch does activate the Bonus Score....In Getaway Mode - Switch 42 does activate the Ramp Gates.
Does anyone out there still listening have any idea why this happens?

I guess what I am asking is: What acts as the Stepper Unit in the SS games to tell the switches what mode the game is in: Normal Play Mode - Left Hideout; Normal Play Mode - Right Hideout; Run the Red Light Mode; Getaway Mode - 1st Ball; Getaway Mode 2nd Ball.

I just tested TP2 on the CPU and got a reading of 4.98

When I test TP1 I get a reading 0f 0.00. I shut the machine off when I tested TP1. And I get 4.98 when I measure TP2.

For new HS owners....I recommend the following modifications. Change lights to LED, Put some fire lights in the backbox around the car, Add the stop light mod from RobTune next to the ramp and move the original stop light to the back left corner of the playfield (Use School Bus Yellow paint to paint the stop lights to match the playfield yellow), add the 2 fuses around the bridge rectifiers on the right of the backbox, Add some led spotlights in the back of the playfield to light up the ramp signs and the back of the playfield, add silver mirror tape to the sides to light up the playfield, Use some colored post bumpers to replace the existing yellow ones, Get the sign to add below the ramp to cover the metal plate. These are all fairly simple modifications that really brighten up the game. I also think the new ramp from Freeplay40 is a great idea but a little harder to install (I would love one in a light grey to match the color of concrete). Enjoy the modifications!!

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Thanks Ryancaseystudio. I used the silver chrome vinyl wrap 12" x 60" for $7.99 on ebay. Now you need to get the stoplight from RobTune - real easy to add and it really opens up the ramp. Then get the "High Speed Pinball Sign' on ebay to cover the metal under the ramp. The lighting on your game looks real good.

Do not forget the spray paint can of School Bus Yellow. Paint your new stoplight to match the color on the playfield.

Welcome aboard. I also had little experience when I bought my High Speed and have learned an incredible amount - both good and bad. If you are going to work on the "Boards" of your machine without thousand dollar equipment - Be Careful. The boards are 40 years old and were not made that great. Very easy to screw up the traces on the boards even if you do the work perfectly. I would not replace anything unless you are pretty sure it is broken. But please do not just take my word for it - Try to get more expert advice - I am a novice. Also be careful who you listen to on Pinside...Some help is great - Some not so much. If you read anything from Grumpy or Pincoder....Listen! Good luck

Has anyone bought the mirrored backglass from CPR? Well I am sure someone has. My backglass is pretty good but has some spider web cracks in it. I would like to get a new backglass but bought one once - not from CPR - that really did not look that great. Does the mirrored CPR backglass look like the original - I have heard that it does. Thank you.

One more thing. I asked someone with a lot of experience about an overlay for my High Speed. Answer: Do not do it. Almost impossible to get it to align perfectly and over time dust and dirt will get underneath the overlay. As for a full playfield replacement...I have an incredible amount of respect and admiration for anyone that can do it. I am an engineer and think i can do just about anything with a little work and research - I would never try to do a playfield replacement...Once you start there is no turning back.

The problem is - It is real hard to diagnose the one actual problem that is happening with these machines. Unless it is an obvious burnt transistor or something like that. As for damaging the traces - It is done by experts and beginners - Just happens with old circuit boards. And fixing bad traces - though it looks easy - Is not. And sometimes hard to know which board to send out to be fixed. Working on these games is just hard work. Many times trying to fix one problem means creating 2 other problems. My suggestion - and again I make many bad decisions....Try to fix the sound problem yourself. Read some things....Take the board out and look at it. Find out which part of the board does the sound and start there. I must say I had a problem with the sound and just moved a few wires around and pressed some connectors and got it to work. Am I an expert and fixed it and know what was wrong. No.
My friend did not specifically say which overlay she was talking about. Looking at your machine....Yeah I would definitely look to do something to the playfield. But again - I make a lot of mistakes and bad decisions. I know there are some overlays/hardtops that just use gravity and friction to lay flat instead of sticking. I would probably try one of those. Need to take everything off the playfield - which is doable just takes time - get some good magnetized screwdrivers and socket wrenches. If it does not work you are only out money and you have gained experience - So not a bad tradeoff. One thing I have done is put in some double "spotlight" lights under the trees near the back to help light up the corners. And if you are really into it - Go get some of the mods offered by RobTune. They are all pretty good.

Ok. On the path. When it is time...Remove the ramp assembly and send the whole thing off to Freeplay40 for a new ramp. While that is off - remove the rest of the playfield stuff and put down a hardtop/overlay. When your ramp comes back (And FP sounds like he is crazy busy) - You will have an almost new game. And do not forget to paint the new stoplight "School Bus Yellow" before you install it - Matches the colors on the playfield perfectly.

Pretty sure as in Real sure the Marco back glass is made by CPR. Must be the same mirrored one CPR is selling. Can not believe CPR is making a different one just for Marco. Mine is ok but has a bunch of spider web cracks in it. Really would like an original new one.

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The pattern on my backglass is so interesting it almost looks like it belongs - except it is only on one side.
Your backglass looks a lot brighter than mine....What bulbs are you using behind the backglass?
As for the speaker humming....I had a speaker humming problem and I replaced both speakers. Also looked at all the wiring for the speakers and for that cheap volume turning switch and moved them around a little and got rid of most of the humming. No idea what the problem really was.

Very nice. And I thought I had lit up the back of my playfield pretty good....Yours looks even better. I have been using the Comet lights but I think I may have to spend a little money at Cointaker.

Looks great - Well done. Maybe you can let us know which hardtop you got and whether you had to adjust anything to get it to fit right - I heard that the extra thickness can cause some issues on some games. I think everyone has some issues with those ramp switches. I have contorted my hands several times to adjust them because taking the whole ramp setup off is something I do not want to do that much. A couple months ago I did research and bought an opto switch to replace the first switch under the ramp. I think the opto switch would be better to pick up the ball since it moves pretty quick up the ramp and sometimes gets airborne and jumps the switch. I have not installed it yet because the game is running so well I am afraid to touch anything on it right now. I do think it is the right way to go.

I have been using white pop bumper skirts on my High Speed but I just saw a game that had yellow skirts. Has anyone tried this and how does it look. Seems like bumper skirts on High Speed are not very visible and probably does not make a difference. But always looking to improve my game.

Oh boy…Now you got me thinking. Red bumper top, Yellow body, Green skirt. Good thing I hate soldering the lamp socket or I would be doing it right now.

And speaking of soldering those lamp sockets. Does anyone have a good technique for that. On every video I watch - they seem to skip over the actual soldering of the socket legs. How do you hold the solder, the soldering device AND hold the socket leg to the wire…I already have the flashlight in my mouth.

For the fuses on the rectifiers. I used in-line fuses you can get anywhere. Cut the wires on the machine, stripped them about 1/2 inch then used Wago electrical connectors (4). No soldering - No screwing. Pretty easy actually.

I was thinking of soldering some wire to those metal socket legs but that looks a lot easier…Thanks.

I do not mean to interrupt the conversation but has anyone used Cliffy's hole protectors on their High Speed. Where is the best place to get one and how easy is it to install? My hole still works pretty good but I could see where it could get some wear. Thanks.

Wow....And I thought I did some strange things to avoid soldering and desoldering. Nice work.

Spinners should score every time they spin…maybe switch needs adjusting or cleaning. When my game is working correctly - The multi-balls do not get released until the 3rd ball is launched.

I say this a lot but....Painting Rob's great light School Bus Yellow (matches the color on the playfield perfectly) and painting the original light SBY and placing it in the back left corner - Like Freeplay says - is a great idea.

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So like many on this Forum - I am a HUGE Grumpy fan…. But I have to ask…Why do you need to use a new crisp $100 bill to clean the switch instead of a new crisp $5 or $10 or $20?

Pop Bumper - Slingshot issue:

My High Speed has been working great until the sound went out. I realized that by fiddling around and putting some pressure on the 3J6 connector on the Power Supply Board that I could get the sound to work. I know I need to pull that PSB and redo the pins and replace the caps but the game has been playing so good that I do not want to try to fix something and screw up something else unless I really have to. Anyway after playing with the 3J6 connector to get the sound to work - Now the pop bumpers and slingshots will not work. The lights are on but the solenoids will not fire.
Question: Could playing around with the 3J6 connector have caused the problem with the pop bumpers and if so what pins on 3J6 would be the issue? I was under the impression that the power to those solenoids came through connector 3J3 - pins 6-8 - which I did not touch. I have checked fuse F4 and it is fine.

Doing a little digging into different forums and especially reading as much as I can that Grumpy has written on this issue - it seems as though 3J6 pin 14 could be my problem. On my schematic this pin shows as N/C - However on my machine there is a white wire connected at Pin 14. Could that wire and connection be the issue?

Thanks Grumpy - I was reading some of your old posts while you responded. I know I need to rebuild the PSB and I have all the equipment to do it. I will do it and if I screw it up - You will be getting a little package in the mail - sometimes my desoldering does not go great although I do now have a Pro'sKit desoldering gun. As always - Thanks for your help.

Played around - such a technical term - with the 3J6 connector pin 14 and got everything working...temporarily I am sure since I have a piece of electrical tape keeping some pressure on it. BUT I do know that the PSB needs to be rebuilt. Thanks again Grumpy!!

So feeling confident since I just rebuilt the PSB on my Taxi - I finally decided to rebuild the power supply on my HS. Reflowed the pins, replaced the capacitors it all looked pretty good. Put the PSB back in the machine. Turned on the machine. The machine dinged a couple times, a 0 came up on the red led on the main board and ADJUST FAILURE came up on the screens. I feel like this has happened before but do not have the energy to track down my old posts. Does anyone have an idea as to what I screwed up this time?

I did a reset and the game worked. Then I shut it off and when I turned it on the ADJUST FAILURE came back on. I took out the batteries and they tested fine but they were a little warm when I removed them....Do not remember them being warm before.

Not sure I did this right but with the game off I put the black connector to the banded side of the diode and the red to the other side - dmm was in Ohm 2K test mode - I got a reading of 620. When I reversed the connectors I got the same reading. That does not seem right to me.

Can I use a 1N4004 to replace the 1N4001 that is there? It looks like I can.

Not sure that is going to fix the problem. When I took the diode out it tested fine. I did replace it but is there something else I could have done to the PSB that would make the batteries not work when the game is off.

The one thing I did that I was not sure of was this: In the lower right corner of the PSB there are 4 yellow wires connected directly to the PSB. One of the wires - the one in the lower left corner - was not connected to the board. I assumed that I somehow disconnected this wire so I soldered it back into place. I am not sure that this wire was connected originally but I assume that it was.

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I am not good at reflowing the solder on pins. I do not have access to a schematic…Is it possible I screwed up reflowing a pin that would cause the batteries to not save information when the game is off.

Let me go back a little - I replaced D2 on the PSB but now I realize you wanted me to check D2 on the CPU Board. Let me do that. Here is a picture of the battery holder. The batteries were working fine until I took out the PSB and messed around with it. Had to be something I did.

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When I check D2 on the CPU using the dmm set to diodes - I get a reading of 630 in one direction and no reading in the other direction.

By my terrible analysis - I must have screwed up reflowing the pins of 3J6 on the PSB since some grey wires seem to go direct from the PSB to the CPU 1J17. Here is a picture of the solder on those pins. Here is a picture of those pins - Wow I did not realize I was THAT bad.

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Ok...Reflowed my pins on the PSB. New problem: Turn the game on - Lights go on - Try to start a game - The engine revs up like it is going to start a game but then stops right when the ball is supposed to be put into the shooter and the ball does not get put into the shooter. When I do a diagnostic I get issues with the center trough and right trough. And you wonder why I hate touching these machines.

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The new problem was because I forgot to set machine in Free Play every time i turn it on.

Thanks Grumpy. Just surprised that battery issue came up right when I played around with the PSB. Not a big fan of coincidence - Always think something caused something. I would love to just replace the nvram but the chip I have does not have a socket. Maybe I will just replace with another holder - I use lithium batteries and replace them pretty regularly so that should not be an issue. I will let you know if I have any more problems.

Before I went to sleep last night - I looked at the pictures that I sent showing the upper connections on my battery holder. I realized they were s mess so I took some sandpaper and cleaned them up. Put the batteries back in and when I woke up this morning the game had saved all the information and was ready to go. I will be replacing the battery holder as soon as I get a new one. Thanks Grumpy...Again!!

I recently put in a led strip in the trough of my game and was surprised at how easy it was. I am wondering if anyone has found good places to put led strips around the playfield. I think the game is pretty bright as it is. I was thinking maybe under the ramp would be a good spot.

When you say under the cabinet top do you mean on the bottom of the back box? Or do you mean on the back wall behind and under the ramp? And I AM NOT doing what you did to your back box with the led strips on wood. No chance I could do that without creating more problems.

I like the light under the ramp. Did you put it in front or behind the switches in the ramp? Where did you run the wires?

I think the 4" led strip under the ramp and behind the switches is the way to go to light up the back of the playfield.

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I have a High Speed and a Taxi. The slingshot kickers on the Taxi are much livelier than the kickers on my High Speed. The High Speed has A-23-800-03 coils and the Taxi has AE-26-1500 coils. Can I put the AE-26-1500 coils on my High Speed to make the kickers a little livelier. Or is there a better coil that I should use for my High Speed kickers.

There is a person on pinside that sells a board C-13963. Is that what I need - 1 for each kicker? And is it worth it - Maybe HS was not meant to have such lively kickers. Or did the 50v kicker only become available after HS in 1986. I like mods if I think the original would have had the mod if it was available when the game was built.

Thank you. Does that picture mean you have tried this. BTW - You are the ONLY reason I and many other people wish they lived in MN.

I like: Filling the hole with a combination of glue and sawdust - try to get it pretty smooth. Let it harden. Sand it down a little. Get a black paint pen and color it over. Drill a new hole. Put in the connector.

My local expert told me to change my slingshot rubber from black to white and adjust the slingshot kicker switches as sensitive as possible and that would be the best I could do. Plus the guy with the high current boards only has 1 to sell. So I guess that ends that. Now my weekend is wide open.

Does it make the game play better? I like the idea of doing it.