Hi Guys, I would like to join your club.

I played HS when it first came out in a local bar. (1986)

I looked for one for almost a year.
I bought the one I have 9/10/16.

Pop cap is broken, wire ramps are missing the attachment arms, the traffic light keeps falling off and the display driver has battery damage.
OTHERWISE, it is an awesome game and I can't stop playing it.

I have had my machine for about 3 weeks now. Having a blast with it.

Question #1 : Is the "Shoot Again" in the backglass supposed to light up with an extra ball ? Indicator in playfield lights and so does display but not the one in the lower RH corner of the BG. Bulb is good. (EDIT : it was a connector issue and is working now)

Question #2 : What are the small steel collars meant to hold? There is one under the LH ramp and 2 ( one on either side) next to the RH flasher above shooter lane.

Question # 3: What purpose do the long screws with collars on them that stick up above the wood on each side of the playfield ?

If it would help to answer if I posted pics LMK.

Thanks,
Cliff

Thanks.
It makes sense and I wish I had figured that out myself.....

Anyone have a nice HS pop bumper cap for sale.

I realize after some time on pinside that everyone's definition of nice is slightly different.

So, I would like to buy a cap that has no chunks missing, no bulb burn, and only small scratches.
PM me if you have one to sell.

Sweet !!!
I will be ordering a couple myself.

I just paid $20 for a used one with a chunk out of it.
Moral: always ask for pictures.

I received the ones from E-bay.
They are not hot stamped as the site would have you believe.
They are red pop bumper caps with silk screened/ printed W logo and silk screened lines around the edge.

That said, I am still ok with them because they do not have any chips in them.
If I bought the ones from PBR , they would have the hot stamped W logo but I would have to make the slide decals for the lines around the edge.

So, factoring the $ to buy and ship from PBR , then the time needed to make the decals ( the PDF file for it is available here on pinside) and
put it all together.....$25 finished for 3 seems like a good deal. I will still keep an eye out for originals but if I cannot find one I will use all 3 of these and no one will really be able to tell.

It likely won't match the other 2 you have.

That is absolutely true.

Lots of times I will cut some lexan to fit under a broken plastic to support it and use some crazy glue gel to bond the broken piece on and
nobody ever notices. The plastic looks complete and is protected by the lexan below it.

In the case of the HS I am working on I am going for a very nice restoration. So, I am more picky on this one than I might be on something else.

If I were to pick one or the other I am with you.
I do love to play them but I enjoy fixing them up more.

the mylar looks just like that.
Has wear and dirt underneath it.
Some heated it up and peeled it back as far as the slings and then put it back....
They melted the sling plastics and the return lane plastics also.

Please send me the necessary ramp info.
Thanks
Cliff

Mine was drilled for a lock bar also.
I did not know decals were available.
My cabinet is not bad so I will be patching and blending with an air brush.

Where did you order those decals from?
Cliff

Where did the decal on the coin door come from?

Did you try swapping the cable from player 1 to player 2.
The ribbon cable was the culprit on my game.

Contact: Freeplay40
on pinside.

If you search ebay for "Williams high speed" there are always individual used high speed plastics for sale.
That one will pop up if it is not there now.

Does anyone have good scans of the helicopter plastics or the topper ?

anyone have a good scan of the helicopter plastics?

See post 1700 or 1701 in this thread

I think either hide out would activate if you start a game and make that switch.
The game wants to return the ball at start up

Check ebay. There was someone selling new replacement motors. Search Williams high speed pinball.

Classic Arcades makes a nice looking overlay.
I handled one at Pintastic. It seems well done but there is no way to know if the inserts will line up.

Or the batteries are leaking onto the board.

Helicopter plastic for shooter lane is available on eBay and at marco if anyone is looking for one .

If you look at the flyer on the IPDB there is a yellow helicopter over the shooter lane.
I do not know where the other 2 go.

It's funny, other than the flyer I have never seen the helicopter. Does anyone know if it was even shipped with the helicopter?

Classic Arcades sells all of the insert art on one sheet

Lots of people it the hobby are ridiculously cheap.
However, there are just as many not so concerned with selling their game for a profit as making it as nice as it can be.
I personally do not think $50 is overpriced unless there is another alternative.

Classic arcades sells pop caps.
Set of 3 $20.
They are not hot stamped as advertised but they look ok.

Last night I removed the Mylar on my HS. I am not against Mylar in general if it looks good, I had a police force that had factory mylar, a beautiful playfield. It does play slower but if it is nice I leave it alone.
This was my HS. The mylar was added later. The person who put it on did not see the need to clean the playfield prior to installation. It also looked like he laid it once askew, pulled it up and reseated it.

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I started with the pop bumper rings. I used a heat gun to gently warm them and remove them. The first one went fabulous. Left the glue behind but it was going well. On the other 2 pops it pulled up paint in some places and left the glue in others.

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I decided to try freezing it. FOR THIS mylar situation, freezing was the way to go. Yes it sucks removing the glue. But it is less work than repainting the playfield. And even using heat in this case left all of the glue behind. All of the art was left on the playfield that was not already in trouble when the OP added the mylar. All of the text on the inserts survived. Competed entire mylar removal and glue removal in about 2.5 hours. ( 5 minutes to freeze and peel the mylar, the other 145 min to remove the glue).

100_3777 (resized).JPG100_3780 (resized).JPG

I froze it with this set-up.

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Thats cool

Has anyone done scans of the rubber ring diagrams under the plastics. I am redoing a playfield and would like to make water slide decAls.

Absolutely

Repainted all of the white areas under the plastics. Not sure if I will do the white areas in view outside of the plastics.
Doing some touch ups waiting for 70*F weather here in New England so I can lay down a 2K clear coat to hold things down.
Masking the white areas created many new areas to touch up as it pulled up more paint.

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The wire getting hung up is one of those hard to find problems. Setting up the exact circumstances can be more difficult than it would seem.
I once tracked a problem on an em that would only happen with the playfield down.
Took 3 weeks to nail it down.

Great, I can buy a repop play field.
I am just finishing restoring mine.
Clear coating 8/15.
No turning back now.
But if it were available BEFORE I did all this work, I would have certainly bought one.

It is one big rubber which I believe is a 5".
And yes the assembly has to be removed.
I removed the one on my game to clear coat and it did not seem that difficult, but in my case, I had the playfield out of the machine.

Look back in this thread. Some members were 3D printing the yellow ones. You can download the file and have it printed by internet sources or someone local.

The CPR playfields came too late for me.
I will be putting the final clearcoat on my playfield Sunday......

I probably would have bought one anyway.
I believe the touch-up/clear coat labor is probably equal to the playfield swap labor depending on how worn the playfield actually is.

I absolutely agree.
Even the best restoration will have flaws and areas that will look "used" if you look closely enough.

I have always used the 2 interchangeable though I thought it was wrong.
Hmmph, now I know.

OP never says whether or not the game plays. That would be a factor in pricing it.

Could someone explain to me the purpose of Ceramic resistors.
Is it necessary to replace the ceramic resistors under the playfield with ceramic ones?
I have to replace a 5 ohm 10 watt resistor under the playfield of my HS because the leg is broken off.
It broke off as part of a clear coat operation so it did not fail.

Just want to know what my options are here.
Thanks
Cliff

You only do direct debit from a savings or checking account???
You do not accept credit cards?

Grumpy, thanks for the reply.

I wanted to know why ceramic? Is it due to the heat dissipation?
Can a carbon film resistor be used in its place?

Thank you.
Now I know!

Oddly, when I was tearing it down, I did not take a pic of the ball side of the double 5.

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If you look close you can see that the shafts of the ramp kicker shafts do contact the rubbers and have left a mark.

Pinball Resource has white rubbers for this

Did you contact jeff at classic?
His are not ribbed but they are good if you have none.
He is always advertising them on ebay.
He produces them himself i believe

What I mean is that Classic Arcades makes them with the radius lines around the outer edge but they are not embossed into the cap like the originals.
I would shoot him an email.
If there is a demand he will make more.

Wow, that light is slick.

I removed the mylar on my High Speed. It was the full mylar that I understand shipped with the machine.
Not sure when yours was applied but I knew my game had been used and THEN the mylar went on. I knew by the wear and the dirt trapped underneath. If yours was day one then it may be different. YMMV
Tried heat and it began pulling paint.
I froze it and had it off in about 20 minutes with almost no loss of paint.
Also, I did not use those silly cans of keyboard spray.

SantaEatsCheese :
Its too bad they did not put that mylar a little further to the right.
On my game, i touched up the red car, repainted the white on the cruisers and completely repainted all of the roadways before clearcoat.
If you are going to touch up, i can give you the color list i used. Every game ages differently so matching colors is hit or miss.
I removed the full mylar by freezing it. You could just run an exacto knife under a plastic and only remove the affected area. Then touch it up and cut in new mylar.

Mine is also apart.

It mounts with the screws thru the arm hold down. The leaf switch touches the silver extension. Plunger pulls in, switch leaf drops and score is made.
Push the arm to playfield and mount switch to two holes in arm bracket.
Screws go thru switch and bracket.
Not sure i make sense......

Did you double check that all plugs are in proper location and not "off" a pin?
Did you inspect the headers on the board?

Where is the star roll- over

So i a reassembling my HS after clear coating.
Went to install the new sling plastics from classic arcades that i picked up last year in allentown.
Coloring isnt even close.
D'oh!

Anyone have any tricks to get the metal Stand off posts off of the plastics?
I have thought of using a drill to remove the bevel.
I have also thought of heating it a bit and getting them out that way.
I know there are plenty of smarter people here, what do you got for ideas ?

How do i get the 5" rubbers behind the hide out kicker shafts?

Has anyone done the series to parallel conversion on the flashers to allow the #89 LED bulbs to be installed?
Coin Taker offers #63 bulbs in LED but no colors. These are Stern specific but I want to add color.
Comet only has #89.

If someone has done the conversion, have you used 5 SMD #89 bulbs in the flashers and are they blinding?
I want the lifespan of LEDs but do not want to burn out my retinas when playing. I once played a F14 and had to walk away because it was just too bright.
I do realize that I can install incandescent 89s and the will last longer but I am also looking to add color.
Thanks
Cliff

Thank you Grumpy.

D'oh!

I re-painted the entire road.
I used rattle can grey.
I stenciled it using frisket and cut out each stripe.
After it was painted, i brushed each stripe white.

As far as mixing the grey, the road on my game was grey and had a green hue to it. I think mixing the color would depend on how dirty the grey is and how much UV the playfield has been exposed to. In other words, the color would be different on each game.

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Has anyone purchased sling plastics lately?
I got the one in the packaging from Classic Arcades.
It is not a close enough match for me. Looking to buy set repo that match.

62E029CD-4953-4786-903F-BDAB092454AF (resized).jpeg

My game has the original 1/2 rib legs.
Buying new legs.
Ribbed or smooth?
According to pbr the legs should be smooth up to 1987.

The original ones are crimped a little too tight and dug into the side of the cabinet. Plus they are not going to look good no matter what i do.

Did the wire fall off the coil?

Who would have guessed?

Finally put power to my hs after 2 year restoration.
Went all led.
Do i cut the large resistor or small on the flashers ?
And, did anyone rearrange the circuit so each led gets 12v or just leave the pairs in series?

Got it.
Thank you sir.

I am dialing in my game and it has been a while since i played. Can someone tell me the ball locking and eject sequence for multi ball.
I thougt it was LH hideout, RH hideout and when you shot the ball from the shooter lane the RH ball ejected before the third ball came up the ramp.
TIA Cliff

Thanks for the help!

In game play: when special is lit on outlanes, does it alternate from one side to the other and if so, what controls the change from side to side?
Tia Cliff

Slingshots make special switch from side to side

Can someone provide a link for the warning sticker mod under the ramp.

That took a lot of effort

Clean the contacts with a business card.
Pop up playfield and look if the yellow wire that feeds them fell off

Yes. Heat is created by resistance to electron flow.
It will only get worse.
Get what you need at great plains electronics.
Ed is a great guy.

There was a time not so long ago when remote battery holders and bleed capacitors were the only option.
I installed remote battery holders in every game i owned.
I would run the wires down to next to the coin box so i could change them without moving the machine. I would solder short wire male / female plugs at the board so i could remove it.

It is normal if you win extra ball as high scoreor get the special.

Planetary pinball has parts manuals online

Did you rebuild the shooter rod assembly?
The ball should be able to easily go all the way around ramp. Do you have the correct spring?

Is your machine pitched more than 6.5 degrees off level?

Is the clear shield on the ramp being pushed down by the traffic light hardware? On my machine i found this was an issue. The clear plastic was too low and slowed the ball down. I melted it and lifted it a bit. The ball rockets around now, to the point of it being a timing issue now. But it easily makes it around either by pulling pin or with flipper.

They can still have loose parts inside
"Micro parts"

I have only one and it is mounted over the shooter lane like in the flyer.
It was not on my game originally as far as i know.
It was easy to mount and i think i used a screw that was already there.

My game had a steel collar on the screw. I mounted the plastic between the screw head and the collar.

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On my machine the kick out goes as far around as the pops most of the time. Sometimes it only gets up behind the cup and rolls back down to the flipper.

My ramp switches always worked well until the droopy clear ramp shield sunk down and stopped the ball from getting up the ramp.
I warmed it up and raised it it.
Now the ball goes thru so fast that from time to time, the switches/ diverter do not activate.
It sucks if you run the red light and send it right back up the ramp and it does not register the escape.
I think the shield has been slowing the ball down since i owned the game. Not enough to prevent getting around ramp but enough to be sure switches made.

Those look awesome!

Yeah, but lets see you do it again!

When i restored my playfield, i had to do away with the rubber sizes on the playfield. I repainted all of the white and much of the rest of the playfield.
My intention was to use waterslide decals in between clear coats but never did. Just got lazy.
When i was just about done with clear coat, repro playfields were released.

Pop covers are available on ebay.
It is classic arcades so they are not hot stamped, just screen printed but you cannot tell the difference with the glass on.

ebay.com link: itm

Take a pic of the board below the batteries and post it.

There are a lot of damaged parts there.
More importantly, there is likely trace damage there as well.
If you have experience with board repair, this will be a big job.
If you do not have experience, this board will be a never ending chore.
In the end, you may only spend $150 in ics, sockets, resistors, diodes , shipping etc but you will invest a lot of hours.
When all is said and done, it will be unreliable.

Has anyone converted the beacon 1683 bulb to an LED bulb?

Thanks Grumpy.
I will grab one at pinfest from coin taker.

I went 8 blue flex as well

Great job! Now it looks as it should.

I put the helicopter in that spot but the car looks awesome there.

Wow, 2 weeks. That is a fast turn around! Well done!

Happy ending!

That plastic would be almost perfect if they painted it from behind.

I have always felt they were too hard. I believe the last set i got was from pbr. Not very bouncy.
Not a complaint mind you, but i would like them bouncy.