I just picked up a #high Speed pin the other day. Overall it is in decent shape. Just been sitting for some years. Did the Nvram mod on the CPU. Need to rebuild the flippers and do a thorough cleaning. Also will need to buy one of those stoplights mentioned earlier.

One thing that appears to be very scarce are the 7 digit Alpha-Numberic displays. One of my displays is not working. another Pinsider pointed me to one on eBay however it has a rather large nipple on the back side and am afraid that I will have to modify the board to install it and there may be traces on the board.

Does anyone know of any sources for these Alpha-Numberic display tubes?

Thanks

Thanks, I will try TNT. I still have some work to do on the pin. Not in a super rush but am excited to get her up to running while I do touch ups.

Thanks for the response Todd. Gonna keep looking for the Alpha-Numberic displays. They seem to turn up now and then when someone converts to LED displays.

I am going through my High Speed I picked up last week. The game was missing a knocker in the head cabinet (wires still there so easy to bring back to original). I just purchased a new knocker however there is no diode on the coil. I assume there should be one however I could not find the coil in the schematics in the instruction manual. Could someone verify that the knocker coil has a diode. Thanks much.

And if you can locate the knocker coil in the schematics please point me to the page. I found the Police Light Motor diagram and thought this would be the logical location for the schematic, but not there.

Thanks grumpy, was pretty sure it would need one. Wanted to make sure. And Cathode to red wires.

You are in luck, I just replaced my rubbers on my High Speed and in the process of rebuilding. The size is 5" (part # 23-63-10) http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php

Here are a couple pics

IMG_3036 (resized).jpg

IMG_3037 (resized).JPG

This place is such a great resource for sure. Found another thread on this very topic from a year ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/changing-rear-high-speed-5-rubbers

To resolve wether the cabinet switch is bad take a jumper wire with Aligator clips and clip one end to one soldered terminal of the cabinet switch and touch the other end of the jumper to the other solder terminal of the cabinet switch. If the solenoid fires the same it is not the cabinet switch. However if it fires strong the cabinet switch needs replacing. You may have done this already but if not it will save you from buying a part that may not fix the problem. what condition are the contacts on the cabinet switch?

That is definitely a unique issue. Do the Solenoids look OK? Not discolored/brown/burnt? A couple options are: go through the Solenoid test and operate the hideout solenoids 20-30 times each and see if this blows the fuse. You may have a solenoid that is shorting. As you mentioned you may want to test the ohms on the solenoid.

Sounds like you are on the right track. Relays should not be causing the fuse to blow. I would think the Solenoids (most likely just one) would be more the culprit here. The power draw items on that 2.5ASB fuse are the Kicker Solenoids. Relays take very little power to operate.

I believe this is the Circuit you are having the problem with, correct?

IMG_3077 (resized).jpg

Ordering is the easy part. Doing the play field swap will be the challenge for sure.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

This must be what you are talking about. I bet each machine has its own tolerances. Mine does show some contact however is not cutting into the rubber at all. If it is cutting into your flipper rubber you could take the ball guide off and grind some off of the end to prevent it from cutting your flipper rubber. You may want to check the travel of your flipper as well. It may be traveling too far.

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IMG_3114 (resized).jpg

Absolutely, I assumed that he had installed new parts. Could also need new flipper bushing. Check that your flipper bushing is mounted solid as well, no loose screws.

Quick Note:

If you are interested in purchasing a new playfield from Classic Playfields for your High Speed or know someone that wants one. CPR is showing only 3 left on their web page!

[EDIT] --- 1 Left!

[EDIT] I originally said coin door pic. what I really need is a pic of the front cabinet so I can print the "HIGH SPEED" and trace it for a stencil it so I can paint the front cabinet.

Need a favor from my High Speed community. My High Speed front cabinet is very weathered and I need to do a cabinet paint job. The sides are in decent shape but the front needs serious help.

If I could get one of you to take a high res picture straight on of the front CABINET so I can create a stencil I would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Here is an example of my cabinet.

you can email it to me at 757drivr@gmail(DOT)com
IMG_3143 (resized).JPG

Hey @monkfe, is that a CPR play field? I ordered one and waiting impatiently for it to arrive.

Definitely a much cheaper way to go.

Yea, the sides are remarkably in good shape thus why I just want to paint the front and leave the sides as is. Should be easy to paint the front. just need a good pic. Actually looking at the side of my cabinet I might be able to snap a photo of the HIGH SPEED and scale it to correct size in photoshop then make a stencil.

Ok, if that is an option I will try that. thanks

That would be perfect. The red and yellow square is easy to duplicate. I need a pic that shows the HIGH SPEED graphics. Thanks

Nice to start fresh with new PF but either way there are challenges.

Got them! Thanks

Oh, NO. Sorry to hear that. Yes, I was able to get my diverter working. Had to make a piece from scratch then order a dozen plastic diverter pieces from a 3D printer company. Would have cost the same had I ordered 1 or 12. Has been working great since.

Sorry about the broken plastic and thanks for the help. Again.

My door does that as well. There are a couple ways to fix this. I just bent an angle in the lock arm and that took out the slop. you can also find a pre bent lock arm like the one in the pic. This pre bent arm example is technically bent the wrong way, the dimple should match up with the door frame and this one would make more slack than less if installed correctly. You could install it flipped if desired.

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IMG_3147 (resized).JPG

I inquired also as I have a Playfield on order for High Speed. They were caught off guard by the demand of the high speed playfield. It seems they put the cart in front of the horse. Did not plan on so many orders along with orders still being accepted even though they did not have any more play fields.

Not sure I believe 100% of what they are claiming but they did say the play fields should ship next week. They told me that september 4th as well soooo......

I need to do this as well. My speaker board needs replacing along with the faded fabric cover. Looks nice!

Hey Woody,

Since your right lower flipper is working, If you have not done so yet, I would check continuity between the cabinet flipper switch BLK/YEL wire to the Coil Lug BLK/YEL wire on your upper right flipper. (see pic below) Possibly a molex terminal has slipped out of one of the dark brown connectors in the lower back cabinet. There are TWO connectors you need to check. See Pics.
Check Continuity at red arrowsIMG_3484 (resized).JPGIMG_3485 (resized).JPG

I am not sure if a bad cap Would cause that to not fire. Have you shorted the switch itself at the switch solder connections where the cap is soldered? There could be a problem with the switch blades. How are the switch contacts?

When you

What did you short to get the coil to fire?

This is very basic but Did you check the flipper switch for continuity? place the DMM probes on the solder tabs fo the switch at the BLK/YEL and ORG/VIO then press the flipper button. I am at a loss here and thinking it is going to be a very odd failure.

I am out of ideas on this one. I do not believe the cap would be a culprit but stranger things have happened.

Woody said the lower flipper operates, it is just the upper flipper that is not operating via the flipper cabinet switch. The lower and the upper flipper use the same wire ORG/VIO to the CPU board 1J19-1 so the continuity should show good. Wouldn't you agree?

Your solenoid wiring is correct. No cap needed. Here is a pic of my upper flipper.

IMG_3487 (resized).jpg

use a jumper wire to the ORG/VIO & BLK/YEL on the solder lugs of the switch. This will only work if you have an active game or in diagnostic mode such as switch edges or switch levels. If the solenoid operates your switch is suspect.
IMG_3488 (resized).jpg

Did the problem start after you installed the rottendog board or did you install the rottendog board trying to fix the problem?

Great! I always replace flipper switches. Its easy and they usually need to be replaced when you get a used game.

Either file down the top of the screw just a little, take the screw off and use a grinder to file the top of the screw a little or you can file the end of the wire on the spinner into a cone shape or cut the wire 1/16". You could also find a replacement screw that might have a screw head that is not as high. There is some room on the spinner bracket to move it over keeping the spinner wire away from the screw head, looks like there is some room on the other side of the spinner to take up the slack.

OH BOY! It is time, Complete High Speed restore. This is gonna be fun! A bit intimidating. Replacing most playfield parts, targets, plastics, CPR playfield, etc. installing molex connectors, the works. Cabinet repaint. You name it. Gonna look like new when done. Have taken a SH*T load of pics and movies for a smooth re-assembly. High_End_Pins has been quite the resource. Wish me luck, I am gonna need it! The Before imageProgress picSlowly adding Molex connectorsreplacing all the targets. Want to start new with anything I canFully testing all diodes and switches as I assemble new sets

Here is a front pic if you need it.

PF_Diverter_pic (resized).JPG

Well, that is a start!

Been making progress on my High Speed restoration. At some point this game was in a very damp environment. Every screw is corroded, every screw that screws into the wood is rusty. I am replacing all hardware. Finding #5 hardware is one of the biggest challenges. Completed the GI wiring on the new playfield. Made a couple wiring mods to clean up redundant/extra wire runs. Also found a couple wire colors that were incorrect color. I assume that during initial assemble they ran out of correct wire colors and just used what they had on hand. I also replaced all the fake wood rails with real Oak wood. Got lots of work to do but it is getting there.
Jan20_2 (resized).JPGStapling and wiring GI lightsJan21_6 (resized).JPGInstalled standup targets todayjan25-5 (resized).JPGProgress from a couple days agoJan21 (resized).JPGTodays progressJan25-3 (resized).JPGJan25_1 (resized).JPGPF_L_Freeway (resized).JPGPF_R_Drain_andwire (resized).JPGNew hardware
New_hdwr (resized).JPGOld Rusty hardware. Every screw & bolt I have taken off is this bad. Taking lots of extra time finding, ordering new hardwareOld_rusty_hdwr (resized).JPG

Thanks, It is definitely a LOT of work. Measure twice cut once, it's a good motto. Anything that is old or worn is being replaced. So far everything has gone without any snafus. My big challenge will be painting the cabinet. I am good with electrical and mechanical aspect. Reading DANGERTERROR posts above about issues after assembly sure adds some anxiety into the process.

Love getting rid of all the old rust and replacing with fresh clean metal.

There is not a lot of the GI sockets that need the bare wire run. It was not too bad. The only thing is the sockets I ordered from Pinball life were not great quality. The metal wall is very thin and does not hold the bulb in place on both sides. Discovered this after I installed them. I may have to swap them out.

My High Speed Had the hum also. I was not intentionally trying to fix the hum but I needed a new power supply. I ordered a 3rd party Powersupply (don't recall the brand right now) instated it and the hum went away. food for thought. re-capping stock power supply may help as well.

I am currently in the middle of a complete restore. The playfield is a big job. However I am doing a lot of extras like Molex connectors on all switches and solenoids. I am probably 30+ hours into it and maybe 1/2 way done with the Playfield. I am cleaning all the brackets as I go as well so that is taking a lot of time. All the hardware is rusty so I am replacing 99% of the screws and bolts on the playfield.

Take a look at my post #2996 on the previous page. I posted a few pictures of the progress.

Good luck with whatever route you decide to go.

Another source is boards not properly grounded. Have you checked to make sure everything is grounded very well!

You should also add the fuses to the rectifies just below the PS board. Important modification in the event one of the rectifiers goes tits-up. That can prevent the game from going up in flames as well. You can see the 2 fuses between the BR's in the picture monkfe posted.

Here is the post>>>>> https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945745

Good to see you found the issue!

I ordered it from Bay Area Amusements (bayareaamusements.com), which has just merged with PPS. They sell it in 22 and 18 gauge. I used to Search "wire" on Bay Area web page but it does not work as well on PPS site. ( I was inspired by High_End_Pins when I saw his wire collection) It was a MUST to keep the wiring color correct on my High Speed restoration. I am installing all molex connectors on Solenoids, switches and targets for easy maintenance and repairs.

I have collected quite a bit of wire now both in 18 and 22 gauge in many color combinations (not cheap but worth it to me). I use 18 for solenoids, relays, etc and 22 gauge for switches.

Here is a pic of the mechanical buildup as of today. I am almost ready to transfer the wire harness over, just a couple more switches to move.

IMG_4853 (resized).jpg

I am in the middle of my High Speed restoration. I am looking to replace the Playfield mounting brackets. I was able to find the part that attaches directly to the playfield but cannot find anyone that sells the other half that is attached to the inside cabinet. (see picture). Anyone know where I can find 2 of these brackets? Thanks. I have searched but cannot find any.

TIA

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Ok, Thanks, I will do that.

I am replacing both pieces on each side. I was a little surprised I could not find them either.

That is strange, I spoke with steve the other day and he said he did not have any. Maybe I will call with the part number.

Not damaged, just worn. The part that is mounted to the playfield is worn quite a bit. It is difficult to tell on the U shaped piece but I assume there is wear and I would rather replace them both.

Thanks Bellagio I used the part number and got 2 coming from PBR.

It attaches to the post under the ramp and to the rear screw on the stop light bracket attached to the ramp.

IMG_4995 (resized).jpg

Here is my old playfield with a pic of the stoplight attachment point.

PF_Left_spinner_area (resized).JPG

That is definitely in need of a re-do!

Marco has them, But would be easy to make as well.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6683

Anyone have recent paint codes/numbers for the red and yellow colors on the cabinet? Dunn-Edwards, Behr, Sherwin-Williams. I found a couple references to colors in previous posts in this thread but nothing within a couple years (Posts 1933- 2 years old and 71- 6 years old).

Ok, thanks. Figured I’d ask here before I get the paint

Congrats... Looks pretty clean. One of my favorite games. Mine is currently in about 200 different pieces in the middle of a full restore.

I am restoring my High Speed and would be interested in all the lamp groups. My lamp gropup connecting metal is all rusted and trashed. How is the metal on those?

Would also be interested in the diverter mechanism, spinner switches, and pivot brackets if they are not worn.

ok, thanks

Here is a pic...

Hideout_wire_detail (resized).JPG

Hey Jordan,

I purchased a whole new set. I looked for the receipt but cannot find where I bought them from.

Marco sells a whole set... https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/TS1357

Not sure but this might be where I bought them from.

You may want to check with PBR also.

It was quite a bit of work swapping them out but I figured it was worth the work. I Molexed them all as well.

The 1-6 targets have rear mount brackets and the 3 sets of stoplight targets are all front mount brackets. I forget which ones but I did have to do some minor fanagling to mount 3 targets (I believe it was) as the mounting brackets were slightly different. (think landscape versus portrait or horizontal bracket versus vertical) The new ones were all horizontal type mount bracket and a few of the original had a mount bracket that was vertical. I may not be explaining it very well but that is the gist.

Hope this helps you out
IMG_4771 (resized).JPG

With the whole playfield swap it makes sense to replace as much as possible to get the game up to better than new standards. The mechanics will be HEP quality. The paint... yea, not HEP quality but I will get it as close as my paint talent will take me. I am mostly waiting on the new cabinet to arrive then I will be off to the races. Mostly everything is done and ready to be assembled in the cabinet.

The one thing that I am trying to figure out is the playfield pivot mount alignment. It has to be "dead on" in all dimensions. Just a little bit off and it will not be level, will pivot crooked in the cabinet or will not line up with the playfield hangers and lock bar mechanism. This will be a case of measure 100 times and drill once.

I am sure there is a system out there but as yet have not run across someone that has the solution.

Yea, That back flasher is a gotcha for sure. I am sure most end up doing that.

I would think so as long as you have all the connectors plugged in.

Looking good!

That does not look like a board for High Speed. Why do you say that GI plug is causing boot problems?

Here is a picture from my High Speed PS board

hs_PS (resized).jpg

GRUMPY knows his shit!!!

There is an adjustment you can make on the ball guide rail that exits the shooter lane. There are 2 screws and a slotted mount that you can change the exit angle of the rail. I am not sure which targets the ball is hitting but it sounds like yours needs to be adjusted "looser" so the ball travels higher on the playfield out of the launch lane. Is this correct? Or is the ball hitting the targets higher on the playfield? In that case the lane should be adjusted "Tighter". Here is a pic of the slotted mount.
IMG_4090 (resized).JPG

here is another closer angle

PF_Launch_Guide_adj (resized).JPG

Is it hitting the post sleeve just out of the shooter lane? If that is the case then the lane guide should be adjusted to make a harder turn or tighter turn to avoid the post rubber.

Can you take a slow motion video of the ball launch?

Sorry, did not mean to imply anything about not understanding the workings of the lane.

That is an option. however... Better option and a little more work...but. With stripped out wood screws you can drill the hole a little bigger, find a wood dowel beforehand for size you want then drill into the playfield do not go through the playfield to the other side. Pre-fit the dowel. should be a snug fit, then insert wood glue into the hole, do not need a lot, then insert dowel into the hole. Let dry, sand flat. Then drill new hole for screw and voila! This makes for original look and much easier to adjust ball guide angle. Another reason to do it this way is there may me mechanics underneath the playfield that will not allow for space for a nut.

That is probably a better route with the Hardtop installed.

It's coming along! You know that there should be 2 of the 5" bands around the back diverter unit right.

A little pinball porn for y'all while we try to avoid COVID-19.

Started sanding my cabinet the other day and came to the conclusion rather quickly that it would be way too much work and maybe not even possible to restore this cabinet back to top notch quality. Cab_rot1 (resized).jpgThe top laminate is separating from the lower layer, not good.cab_rot3 (resized).JPGCab_rot2 (resized).jpgThe water rot has taken a big toll on the wood structure.

While I wait for the cabinet to arrive, hopefully within the next couple weeks, I am exercising my OCD by replacing and labeling the 34 year old yellowed Molex connectors.IMG_5352 (resized).JPGIMG_5353 (resized).JPGIMG_5362 (resized).JPGLabeling will make for quick troubleshooting and diagnostics down the line.IMG_5350 (resized).jpgIMG_5351 (resized).JPGIMG_5363 (resized).JPGI replaced as many connectors as I could. I was unable find 15 pin or larger connectors. DigiKey had them listed on their web site however they were marked "obsolete". I will keep looking and replace them later if I can find themIMG_5368 (resized).JPG
Also tore the coin door down to get it powder coated. It was in rough shape. The powder coating did a fair job at covering up the rustCoin_door_B4 (resized).jpgI will continue looking for a replacement door. Until then this one will have to do. It will be an easy swap down the road.Coin_door_between (resized).JPGCoin_Door_After (resized).jpg
This Wednesday I will get my 54 pieces back from the metal plater.

It is a bummer about my cabinet. The wood is just too damaged to bring back to high quality restore I am aiming for. It was an extra expense I was not counting on but it would be wrong to not replace it.

The coin door has a lot of pieces to it but mine really needed a full teardown and restore. I will post a pic when I get it back to gather.

You have it routed correctly around the back of the metal diverter bracket. PF_Diverter_pic (resized).JPGHere is a pic of the rubber placement, one goes in the groove and the other goes above the groove (EDIT: actually I am not sure about the second rubber. It may go below the groove. I just matched a ball against the rubber and it appears that it might match up better if it is below the groove. I see an issue with this though, the band could, over time, slide down the post and rest on the playfield. So I still think it should go above the grooved rubber. Grumpy? want to chime in here?) IMG_5372 (resized).jpgHere is a pic of my old PF diagram.

I checked Great Plains electronics and got the dreaded "Obsolete" on the connectors I was looking for. Maybe Grumpy will have some available he is willing to part with. FingersCrossed...

Don't beat yourself up. We have ALL forgot to include something in an order then had to pay another shipping fee to get the missing parts. FYI: I have placed several orders because I have forgotten to include or did not realize I needed. So you are not by yourself here.

In the big scheme of things. paying $8-10 in shipping is not a huge setback. 2 cups of Starbucks coffee to put it into perspective!

Mine are not burned just yellowed and I am sure brittle. Replacing what I can. Want to keep it as stock as possible. Do not want to change to a different connector making it non-interchangeable with other High Speed games.

I will just leave them if I cannot find replacements.

I will go check it out. Thanks.

EDIT: I searched, did not find it. Could you post a link if you are able to find it. I am looking for the square 5X3 jack and plug.

Did not realize the roll-overs had to be installed like that. Honestly I am not a fan of the hard tops, although they seem to be VERY popular. I am sure it is less labor intense than a play field swap.

I chose the playfield swap route because I wanted to replace the playfield since all the screws were rusty on the bottom and it was evident that the game had been in a damp environment for a period of time. The cabinet also showed that making it necessary to replace that as well.

Take your time and I am sure it will all be fine in the end.

Yes, that is one of the ones I am looking for.

The other 2 come off the power transformer. See pics.

IMG_5376 (resized).JPG

IMG_5377 (resized).JPG

IMG_5379 (resized).JPG

Yes, I can use the 12 pin male. I have the 4 pin ones but not the one from the transformer.

you have a PayPal I can send you $ for the 12 pin male? That is if you are willing to part ways with it.

looks like you are looking for GI wiring connections for the Pop bumper correct? I did a little re-configuring when I did the pop bumpers but here are some pics. Let me know if they help.

I may have pics of the original, before I disassembled the old playfield. Let me know if you need more pics.

IMG_5384 (resized).JPG

IMG_5385 (resized).JPG

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Actually I AM looking for .62 size in the 15 and 24 pin version. Grumpy was gracious enough to offer the female side of the 15 pin .62 so I am good there just need the Male side now.

I think I will be SOL on the 24 pin connector.

Hey Monk,

Thanks for the link. That is the connector I am searching for. I must have overlooked it when searching before. It does look like the Male side is not available, still looking through the pages of connectors.

This forum is such a wealth of information. I was hoping it would lead to finding the parts I was looking for.

Your link led me to find the 24 pin connector at Marco as well both Male and female! I find it so difficult to find parts unless you have a part number. They are not cheap but it is exactly what I am looking for. Screen Shot 2020-03-17 at 7.36.51 PM (resized).png

Thanks!

OK, thanks. I am seriously going cross-eyed from searching connectors online now.

My posts were a bit confusing and not very precise. My bad.

The 15 pin connector (male and female) .63 I need connects the playfield switch harness to back box MPU harness. Marco seems to have the female but not the male as monkfe posted above. The 15 pin you posted looks like .63. If that is the case I will order a couple from Marco and you can hold on to yours.

I was shocked to find the 24 pin connector available on Marcos site. Gonna order a few of those as well.

searching for parts for pinball machines is like a treasure hunt across the world continents!

Thanks again GRUMPY