4 Aces
Williams, 1970
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Buck Rogers
Mambelli, 1980
Camel Lights
Game Plan, 1978
Comet
Williams, 1985
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
Genesis
Gottlieb, 1986
Getaway: High Speed II, The
Williams, 1992You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider PiLgRiM.
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Anyone have experience with the ramp diverter assembly? My right ramp diverter won't turn with the solenoid (the left works fine). I took the E clip off the bottom of the arm and it looks like it's missing a clip or something to attach the big arm (from the solenoid) to the vertical that rotates the diverter?
20180902_144700673_iOS (resized).jpgQuoted from desertT1:Can you manually actuate it and see if anything is off? It all looks attached from the picture.
Yes, it looks fine and the actuator moves the left diverter, but the right side just spins around the shaft and doesn't catch it to move it. It looks like, from some other threads, that the outer part is crimped somehow to the inner part that would spin the shaft, but I can't find that part or what I can do to fix it.
Quoted from kermit24:Nope that’s not it.
Check the switch right above the ball shooter. It needs to sense the ball there after the game starts and it pops one out of the trough. It will try a few times, then give up from what I recall.
Quoted from kermit24:It’s not that. None of the playfield solonoids will fire. At all. They won’t even feed them into the trough. If I manually put them into the trough a game will start. But none of the playfield solonoids fire. Just the flippers work.
All fuses are good. I can hear the these three relays clicking a few times.
Check ground at 3J3 in the power supply. That’s where those relays need to connect to ground to fire the connected solenoids.
Quoted from Freeplay40:I've seen this first hand before. The arm to the shaft is a simple crimp. That crimp has likely failed. If so, best fix is to get someone to weld it at the crimps.
What if I don't have access to a welder? I can see on the left side where the crimp is but I don't know how to duplicate a fix on the right side.
I can’t for the life of me figure out what’s wrong with my top playfield flashers. I replaced both bulbs and the warming resistors test ok. Outside of that, can’t figure out how these two bulbs are wired back to the cpu board because the wire colors don’t match up (there’s no evidence of a previous owner rewire) and I can’t figure out what voltage I should be getting out of the solenoid sockets on the MPU.
Anyone have any experience with this circuit specifically? Thanks!
Quoted from GRUMPY:I think I can help you, if my memory serves me the power (32 volts DC) comes on a red wire to the left bulb socket (#63 bulb). Thru the bulb and leaves on a brown wire to the right bulb socket (#63 bulb). #63 bulbs are 7 volt dc bulbs. Then it leaves the right socket on an orange wire back to the resistor board. Connected to the orange wire on the resistor board is 2 resistors, the first is a 330 ohm resistor and it connects to 2 black wires which are connected to ground. This allows power to flow thru both bulbs and the 330 ohm resistor to ground which will warm the filaments so they light brighter and quicker. The second resistor is a 10 ohm resistor. The other side of this resistor has a blue /black wire connected to it. The blue/black wire goes to the cpu to turn on and off the bulbs. So when the cpu grounds the blue/black wire power will now flow thru both bulbs and thru the 10 ohm resistor and then to ground. Since there is less resistance the bulbs will light fully now.
Thanks, that was exactly what I was looking for. I'm getting closer to 27VDC, but it's close enough. I SWEAR I swapped out the right flasher when I was cleaning the plastics, but maybe it burned out or was never good to begin with. I was confused as to why I wasn't getting any voltage on the resistor board and I wasn't getting voltage on the orange side of the right bulb. I swapped out the bulb and it's working great now!
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