(Topic ID: 69131)

High Speed Club ~ Dispatch, this is 504. We have a Club now, over.

By lordloss

10 years ago


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  • 6,252 posts
  • 470 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by mrbvp1
  • Topic is favorited by 232 Pinsiders

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3 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #1871 Lane change and EOS positioning. Posted by GRUMPY (6 years ago)

Post #2703 Original flipper wiring photos. Posted by Pin-Pilot (4 years ago)


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#1814 6 years ago

Hello all! Just slammed the accelerator and dropped the hammer on a decent HS. So I'm in! The cab is excellent, and so are all the electronics and plastics. The playfield however is shot. I do believe I'll do the overlay one of these days soon.

For now however there is an issue to iron out. The left flipper. The guy I got it from informed me that if you press it a fuse will blow. So I went and got some spares and pressed it. It didn't blow. It didn't flip either. On startup it throws codes 36, 37, 38. I read through and searched out all the relevant threads but didn't find the solution. I'm willing to bet one of you fine gentlemen know. Any ideas?

I've checked for proper wiring, gaps on switches, and power being supplied. The flipper button sparks nicely which dims the lights. Obviously a dead short. But where?

Here's a pic or two. Stoked to finally have this game.

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#1816 6 years ago

Well dang. Nice link pal. Followed the directions and found almost no resistance on the left coil both high and low side. The right side is at 3.3ohms. So there it is! Off to Marco to see what's what. Might as well just rebuild the whole darn things. Thanks!

#1818 6 years ago

Indeed I tried it both ways. Looking at the manual, it appears someone installed the wrong coils altogether. These have two diodes each and are wired differently. They're fine, but I prefer I suppose to get the correct ones. Does anyone happen to have the correct diode size? The manual doesn't list it.

Not sure that any of this has a thing to do with the codes, but it won't hurt.

#1821 6 years ago

After having read the entire document bobukcat supplied, I realize how asinine some of previous posts were. I now have a much better grasp of the situation.

I pulled the left flipper coil after having followed all the testing procedures to no avail and found it to in fact be a dead coil. And not the wrong one mind you, the newer updated one that does belong there. So that should fix that particular issue, though for whatever reason my DMM refuses to show voltage on the lugs. Yet the right one fires so not clear on that.

The error codes are another issue I believe. Testing all the switches I have found the correct voltages on each but the system refuses to acknowledge a close in EOS or lane change switches. I believe someone monkeyed around and shorted these two together. That's bad. Right?

I tested the transistors as described. Most show the correct value but there are six or so that show null. And this is where I'm in over my head. These readings could simply illustrate my ignorance. Sure I could pull the board and start replacing them one by one. In the end I could do more damage than there already is and likely would. I don't solder all that well. I could replace the board all together. Then I've doubled the investment in this game. Three, someone please tell me what three is.

I appreciate all of you. This sort of undertaking would be nearly impossible without an Internet and awesome people. Thanks. Seriously.

#1824 6 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

The first thing to do is find the switch matrix for your game (it's in the manual and a printed version may be stapled in the cabinet somewhere) then find the problem switches on it. In your case they are all in Column 5 so check every other switch in that column and then look at what's in common with those three switches that are not working (hint, it's probably not a bad transistor). Remember that the switches are not necessarily wired in the order of the matrix, so find the common wire for the column and follow it from each switch to the next ensuring that the solder joint is actually good (continuity test with game off is the best way to be sure) on each connection. My guess is you have a broken wire somewhere along the column.
One more piece of advice - don't ever start just shotgunning things on boards, you'll do more harm than good.

Sweet freaking reply bud. Thank you. I did manage to solve the flipper problem. Was simply what I was told was highly unlikely, a bad coil. A new one fixed it right up.

The switch issue remains but I dig your suspicion that it isn't board related. I'll dig into that tomorrow. I really do appreciate ya my good man!

#1825 6 years ago

Quick question, does anyone know what the jet bumpers are? Switches 33, 34, 35?

#1827 6 years ago
Quoted from ScottyC:

AKA pop bumpers. Spoon switches on the bottom of the bumper skirts

Sweet thanks. The manual is somewhat unclear on the matter.

There is a small passage in said manual which describes how to remove connectors and test the board for switches at j8&10, J8-5 specifically, which powers the entire column on which I am getting such errors. It also states that only three errors can be shown at a time which is good to know. If I jumper 8-5 to the rows on J10 I get zero switch responses. The other pins function properly and respond to the appropriate selection.

Just to confirm with my fellow pinsiders, per the chart, this means the transistor at Q43 is toast. If there are any other thoughts before I pull the board and whack at it, I'd damn sure like to hear them.

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#1828 6 years ago

Sorry, part was covered up.

Screenshot_20170823-121419 (resized).pngScreenshot_20170823-121419 (resized).png

#1830 6 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

--- on the jet bumper switch stack.
Caution: side mounted switch stacks can cause a short and blow out the switch strobe.
------- e.g. Space Shuttle, PinBot.

Wait what!? I have still yet to pull it. Waiting on the ideas from you guys. I get its a daisy chain for power. What doesn't add up is the lack of power to pin 5.

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