Greetings! New High Speed owner. I posted this question in the Tech forum, but I understand this thread is the place to go for High Speed questions.

We unfortunately had to remove the Head in order to get the machine down to my basement. Everything went swimmingly, EXCEPT in the process of getting everything set, the yellow wires soldered on the lower right corner of the Power Board snapped off. They were just severely weakened stranded wire. I have no issues resoldering them, I just wanted to verify the proper order of the wires.

The drawing in the manual makes it look like that pins 1->4 of connector 40 go: upper-left, lower left, lower right, upper right onto that corner of the power board. is that correct? Can someone with this pin give it a quick inspection to verify? I took tons of photos prior to the disassembly/reassembly, but unfortunately none of them clearly show the wire order.

Another schematic later on in the manual seems to indicate that this area of the Power Board is for "General Illumination". Based on that, I should be able to temporarily leave those wire off just to test the general function of the game (to verify proper reassembly), correct?

Cheers.

-- M

IMG_0293 (resized).jpg

Great! Worked fine upon the resoldering. Thanks for the sanity check.

Followup question.

When I power on the machine, I get the "Adjust Failure" / "Factory Setting" error (depending on if the coin door is open or closed. I've replaced the batteries, etc. When the machine does this the buttons in the coin door don't allow me do go into the menus - - they don't do anything. Eventually, after fiddling (removing and reseating batteries, etc), the pin will suddenly boot and allow us to play. When we power off though, it goes back into those errors at next power on.

Common opinion seems to be that this is normally a bad/dead battery. But I've replaced them with brand new ones. There's no damage from past battery acid on the board, and no corrosion on the terminals in the battery sockets.

What should be the next thing I look at?

Thank you muchly, gentlemen. It looks like a bad connection between the battery holder and the board. If I wiggle it I'm able to then use as normal. I'll schedule one of the options - relocating the battery holder or the NVRAM chip.

Are people happy with the NVRAM without using any batteries?

- M

I have a rather unusual "quirk" with my High Speed I'd like to get an opinion on.

Everything functions great except after you shoot the ramp to "Escape". Ordinarily when you shoot the second ball it'll go up the ramp and then when it's registered in one of the lock positions, the game will then put the 3rd ball out for the shooter. My game, however, puts that third ball out for the plunger even if the 2nd ball is still sitting there unplunged.

This is the only time anything is unusual with that entire area; for example, the tire screeching noise doesn't play before the plunge (as if that switch at the plunger wasn't functioning right). The only issue is that it's putting the 3rd ball out before the 2nd has been plunged.

The only thing I can think of is the switches under the playfield that register either the 2nd or 3rd balls in "storage" are faulty? And that causes the 3rd ball to be served early? Is that the best possibility?

Yeah, my shooter switch originally would play the tire squeal even if I hadn't plunged the ball yet; I've got that working well now. So I suspect it's a trough switch. The unusual thing is it doesn't manifest itself anytime else during game play.

My initial inspection showed everything was ok. However the issue persisted.

Continuing to look into it, I eventually found the issue.

The switch detecting the 3rd ball had its wire set so that when the ball was on it the wire was getting caught on a screw on the switch. So when the ball advanced the switch was being kept engaged. A little creative wire bending with needle nose pliers took care of it!

Definitely, this was the case here. Lifting the playfield shifted the ball in the channel which then shifted the positioning of the wire off the screw. All my electrical tests were OK; I just happened to lift the playfield at one point and the ball didn't shift, and I saw it right away.

Now that all the really annoying issues with my HS are done, I can now devote time to a non-critical one - - the beacon light. I'd swear I'm not getting the correct voltage up there thru the relay. But I want to do legit voltage readings before I post specifics here.

Any quick ideas? My topper red light works, but if it's running too long the 1A fuse will eventually blow. I assumed the motor was old and gummed up (I could even hear that sucker grinding!) so I replaced EVERYTHING. The mount, the reflector, new bulb, new motor, everything. Initially thought it was working but it blew again yesterday while I was having trouble escaping. There's nothing else on that side of the relay's circuit. What should I look at next? Should I plan on replacing that big relay that powers the circuit?

-- M

Just a followup regarding my topper red light continually blowing its fuse after "brief" use. I started using a 1.5A slow blow instead of the 1A slow blow (I used a 1A originally because there's a sticker in my cabinet saying so). I haven't had the fuse blow in the last week, and I've been enjoying my now fully functional machine!

Thanks for the confirmation that a larger fuse was OK to use.

-- M

When I was blowing my 1A beacon fuse all the time I put a 1.5A fuse in and haven't had a problem since. I was afraid to go to 2A.

I'd be interested in the answer to #2 as well. I already have all LEDs and you can hear the change in background him when the lights cycle, especially in attract mode.

You can see the prior discoloration on U42 and U43.

The other poster is correct. The first ball ejects when the third ball hits the switch at the top of the ramp, or hits any switch on the playfield (if you missed the ramp for some reason on the plunge).

I posted a separate thread about flipper coils.... In case anyone missed it but monitors this thread, I'd appreciate input. I'm looking to replace a flipper coil, but my High Speed is using 3 different coils.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-flipper-coils

Thanks...

-- M

That's probably more my data entry than anything else.

But that leads to a follow-up question. I have a SFL-23-600/30-2600 coil. But that coil has the one diode on it, while the drawings in the manual have 2. Is that significant? The wire hookups look to be the same based on a prior pinside post about parallel and serial coils.

Thanks.

-- M

Yes, the manual only shows one diode in the drawing. I'm more just confused because of my diverse collection of coils in my machine. . Two of my 3 coils have 2 diodes.

The conversation has picked up in that other thread, so we can discuss over there.

-- M