Just joined the club today! Excited to have a system 11 game!

Mine works besides the displays. It has been narrowed down to a bad displayed driver. I can't get the machine to go into attract mode and take credits. I was able to do it by randomly pressing sequences of the adjustment buttons and then it worked and took credits and played games. I have seen some posts about this issue so I will try to hunt those down and see the solutions.

I'm missing the revolving light as well.

I found the solution to my attract mode problem; for the purpose of documenting issues/solutions. Turns out the battery holder must have not made good contact. I did the remote battery mod today and on first startup it did not go into attract. I fiddled with the adjustment buttons again and rebooted the game. It now turns on in attract mode. My thinking is the memory kept getting corrupted since it did not backup and since I don't have displays, It was probably in that adjust memory state. Rebooting the system corrected the memory errors and now it's saved by property hooked up batteries.

Could someone shed some light on the differences in rom level upgrades? I have L-2 in my game now. What's the advantage of buying the L-4 roms?

Caught this today because I recorded the original teenage mutant ninja turtles last night.

It's impossible to watch the first two ninja turtles and be in a bad mood.

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not an expert on pinballs yet but am familiar with electricity and it looks like you EOS switch is connected to the same lug, meaning its not switching anything from the low and high power sides. If both leads of the EOS go to the same tab, its not doing anything.

Fresh from the 3D printer. Needs to be cleaned up some still and painted. Can't really see the face detail but it's matched to the traffic lights on the game.

I can also email the .STL file to anybody who would like to make one.

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What type of Led's are in the GI and clear inserts? Cool white?

Got some mods from a place I wouldn't have thought. Went to a model train/toy show today for my kids and found this company making small EL signs. Had to represent Boston and get the Citigo sign. It lights up pretty cool and just did a quick test fit. This might come in handy because I have some dead space to kill once I put in my clear ramp. Also found a Lamborghini diablo matchbox and put it on the unslighy metal deflector at the end of the ramp.

Edit- a quick search and apparently these el signs have been found prior and an issue about half life of the paper before it fizzles out is low. Only time will tell I guess. My games are not on a lot. Maybe 20 minutes every day or so.

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Glad you are using it! It looks like the thin tabs are parallel with the printing direction. You can try rotating it 90 degrees relative to the print direction which might make the thin tab stronger. Or try reinforcing it with epoxy on the inside. Mine held up good. I'll have to get back to you with what print technology I use though.

Also the posts are meant to be crossed drilled for metals rods that connect to the cabinet. This would look like if this were mounted to a wall or pole if that makes sense.

I can try making that area stronger if you need also and give you another file.

I have one if you have access to a 3d printer. I can provide the .STL file free of charge.

Has anyone done anything to "tidy up" areas behind the ramp when they switched over freeplay40's clear ramp? I understand the white portion at the start but I'm more talking about the diverter mech, switch plate, and two flash bulbs that are a sight for sore eyes with a clear ramp. I was thinking using two red dome covers and mounting the flashers to the back wall of the playfield. Anyone have any other ideas for the rest?

I have a better version FYI. Both horizontal and vertical options.

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Message me and I will email you the .STL file. You have to go to a 3rd party 3D printing house and have it made.

I will not speak on behalf of the price but I can comment on the stop light stuff. Like you said I have the file for the housing free of charge, the three color lenses are available on typical pinball sites, they are 5/8" diameter faceted I believe. I have not seen the mounting base/sockets before so that might be hard find but if you are electrically inclined it should be easy to make the assembly. It's just 3 sockets with diodes and the switch matrix diagram will tell you the correct wiring. Molex connector is easy to obtain (freeplay 40 has a light extension harness that you can buy and hack). Then take the 3 bulbs and mount in on a small plate (i can make a 3D file of a mounting plate for your if you need down the road).

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=390&pg=1

Also, i confirmed that they are 5/8" diameter.

Hey guys, change for someone else to join the club, selling my high speed.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/58234